OpenBeta

description -> "A plentiful new boulder field below a nice cliff. A reasonably tall single-pitch cliff borders one side of the field and is home to 40+ sport routes.\n\nFound by Tom and Ben Piche and Danny Plonka. The establishment process is ongoing.\n\nEither approach takes roughly 10 minutes from car to descent. The western approach is closest to the [Main Wall](/area/1622628d-f3b7-5fcb-aa19-41558a7a78a8/main-wall) (sport climbing).\n\n#### Notes\n\n* The _Main Wall_ sub-area lists all of the sport and trad climbing routes. All other sub-areas are boulder collections.\n* All sport routes (and most trad routes) are documented with topos\n* Boulder GPS coordinates are approximate — use the guide (linked to below) for reference.\n\n### Eastern Approach (Kerns Rd.)\n\n1. Park in either lot at Kerncliff Park, and walk north on Kerns Rd. up the hill until you reach a suspiciously large cluster of road signs (at 3rd Concession Rd. E.)\n2. Continue walking ~20m until you see [the Bruce Trail access on the left](https://media.openbeta.io/u/27339796-f8b5-48ed-b1bf-856dbd5289a2/PdhbbMW9BK.jpg?w=1024&q=75). (GPS: [43.347522° N 79.860731° W](https://www.google.com/maps/place/43%C2%B020'51.1%22N+79%C2%B051'38.6%22W/@43.3474519,-79.8609112,20z/data=!4m4!3m3!8m2!3d43.347522!4d-79.860731?entry=ttu&g_ep=EgoyMDI0MDkxNS4wIKXMDSoASAFQAw%3D%3D))\n3. Head left into the forest, [until you reach a fork in the trail](https://media.openbeta.io/u/27339796-f8b5-48ed-b1bf-856dbd5289a2/tMqWMCbHRp.jpg?w=1024&q=75). This is the King Side Trail. Take the left fork to continue on the Bruce Trail. (GPS: [43.345636° N 79.862336° W](https://www.google.com/maps/place/43%C2%B020'44.3%22N+79%C2%B051'44.4%22W/@43.3456399,-79.8649163,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m4!3m3!8m2!3d43.345636!4d-79.862336?entry=ttu&g_ep=EgoyMDI0MDkxNS4wIKXMDSoASAFQAw%3D%3D))\n4. Continue walking until the trail turns to follow the cliff edge. [You should see a side trail branch off to the left](https://media.openbeta.io/u/27339796-f8b5-48ed-b1bf-856dbd5289a2/fNDdDjwbLw.jpg?w=1024&q=75). (GPS: [43.344236° N 79.860939° W](https://www.google.com/maps/place/43%C2%B020'39.3%22N+79%C2%B051'39.4%22W/@43.3442399,-79.8635193,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m4!3m3!8m2!3d43.344236!4d-79.860939?entry=ttu&g_ep=EgoyMDI0MDkxNS4wIKXMDSoASAFQAw%3D%3D)) — take this trail and [follow it to the downclimb](https://media.openbeta.io/u/27339796-f8b5-48ed-b1bf-856dbd5289a2/zg6zhcGtpk.jpg?w=1024&q=75).\n\n#### At the downclimb\n\n- A downclimb rope is available to use at your own risk. After the downclimb you will be at the Warmup Sector.\n- *Alternatively*, follow the cliff edge until you reach a class 3 rocky scramble down to the base. This puts you at the right-mode edge of the [Main Wall](/area/1622628d-f3b7-5fcb-aa19-41558a7a78a8), by [*Welcome Wagon (5.10d)*](/climb/8f753a47-da3f-43b6-811f-e3cc30024f12)\n\n### Western Approach (King Rd.)\n\n1. Park at the [King Road Bruce Trail Access](https://maps.app.goo.gl/QptG6Bn5NsgZHMEXA), there are three parking spots and about 5-6 spots along the shoulder. **Do not park on the road or you will get ticketed**.\n2. Enter the forest and [follow the Bruce trail](https://media.openbeta.io/u/27339796-f8b5-48ed-b1bf-856dbd5289a2/Lq8kWhPzWj.jpg?w=1024&q=75) (white blazes.) (GPS: [43.338253° N 79.865950° W](https://maps.app.goo.gl/KZa2nPNPMLpCx5TNA))\n3. After you pass the electrical tower, [take the unmarked side trail on your right](https://media.openbeta.io/u/27339796-f8b5-48ed-b1bf-856dbd5289a2/nHTDNLnztL.jpg?w=1024&q=75). (GPS: [43.338925° N 79.864767° W](https://maps.app.goo.gl/C2SAL5NpgmAngyyE8))\n4. Follow this trail along the cliff edge. This side trail will eventually fold back into the main Bruce Trail — **continue following the cliff edge** until you find a descent into [a lower section of the cliff edge](https://media.openbeta.io/u/27339796-f8b5-48ed-b1bf-856dbd5289a2/NNKTDRTjrc.jpg?w=1024&q=75). (GPS: [43.340917° N 79.862175° W](https://maps.app.goo.gl/Yckn8yujkDFpKwuA6))\n5. The [descent into the sport climbing and cheese area](https://media.openbeta.io/u/27339796-f8b5-48ed-b1bf-856dbd5289a2/KFgj6DHDdb.jpg?w=1024&q=75) is at the far end of this lower section. A strap of webbing is provided, as well as several lengths of chain link bolted along the rock face. Recommend use of a personal anchor during the descent as this is a class 4 descent with or without packs/pads. (GPS: [43.341011° N 79.861883° W](https://maps.app.goo.gl/3eFRTdSKkxPcEs1T9))\n\n#### Resources\n\n- [Official Crag Next Door Bouldering Guide (last updated 20 June 2022)](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ncJ-WYBsgwjqmxRyoKnBMZUMmYlntKWh/view?usp=sharing)\n- [Google Earth `.kmz` — Boulder GPS coordinates](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qQGlNtmDq5ipGT-Dynekn-59uUt8aJYV/view?usp=sharing)"

julianlam

edited an area

3 days

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Ontario South Bouldering and Rock

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Sawtooth

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DiaNo Low Project

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Ontario South Bouldering and Rock

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Diano Egg

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Canada

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julianlam

edited an area

3 days

Area

Hook Area

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Area

Ontario South Bouldering and Rock

Area

Ontario

Area

Diano Egg

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Canada

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The Crag Next Door

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International

Canada

Squamish Powell River Skaha The Bugaboos Lake Louise

USA

Alabama1,772

Horse Pens 40 Hospital Boulders Sand Rock

Arkansas2,561

Horseshoe Canyon Ranch Sam's Throne & Surroundings North Side Cowell/Deer Area Sam's Throne East Side

Alaska1,916

California36,420

Bishop Area Central Joshua Tree Big Bear Lake Area Owens River Gorge Hidden Valley Area Tuolumne Meadows Santa Barbara Big Bear North Volcanic Tablelands (Happy/Sad Boulders)Indian Cove Lost Horse Area Wonderland of Rocks Big Bear City Area Apple Valley Area Riverside Area Holcomb Valley Pinnacles Lone Pine Area Buttermilk Country Happy Boulders Tramway, The Running Springs Area * Santa Barbara Bouldering Castle Rock Area Pine Creek Canyon June Lake Area Alabama Hills Donner/Truckee Bouldering Lower Merced River Canyon Echo Rock Area Sheep Pass Area New Jack City Valley North Side Donner Summit Hidden Valley Area Bouldering Bowman/Emeralds Hwy 33/Ojai Indian Cove Campground Wonderland North Valley South Side Central Joshua Tree Bouldering Suicide Rock Mount Woodson Shuteye Ridge Real Hidden Valley Queen Valley Area Fairview Mountain Pinnacles National Park South Shore Alabama Hills North Stoney Point Mount Rubidoux Lake Arrowhead Area Sherwin Plateau * Castle Rock Area Bouldering Buttermilks Main Rock Creek Central Gorge Mount St. Helena Wonderland South San Diego County Desert Area Culp Valley Lake Arrowhead Pinnacles * June Lake Bouldering Upper Gorge Inner Gorge Sad Boulders Emeralds, The Big Bear South Rattlesnake Canyon El Cajon Mountain West Shore Tahquitz Rock Bishop Peak Lake Ramona

Connecticut2,292

Central Valley Bald Rock Basin

City of Rocks Massacre Rocks Black Cliffs Twin Falls and the Snake River Canyon Fins, The

Illinois1,553

*Jackson Falls *The Holy Boulders

Red River Gorge Northern Gorge Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP)Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP)Muir Valley Bald Rock Fork Recreational Preserve (BRRP)Natural Bridge Region

Louisiana6

Maine1,323

-Acadia National Park -Camden Hills

Maryland1,885

Harper's Ferry

Massachusetts5,079

Lynn Woods Greater Lynn Woods Area Dogtown Promised Land, The Dyke's Pond (Gloucester)Middlesex Fells Hammond Pond

Red Rock Red Rock Bouldering Calico Basin Mount Charleston First Pullout (Calico I)Kyle Canyon Sandstone Quarry Second Pullout (Calico II)Kraft Boulders Mount Potosi Pine Creek Canyon

New Hampshire5,960

Rumney *Pawtuckaway WM: Kancamagus (Eastern)*Rumney Bouldering Black Jack Boulders New Durham Area (Longstack, Devil's Den, Rines Hill, etc.)Exeter Area Bouldering Boulder Natural *Cathedral Ledge

New Jersey752

New Mexico5,516

Jemez Mountains and Jemez Valley Los Alamos & White Rock Organ Mountains Box Climbing Areas, The White Rock Diablo Canyon Sandia Mountains Capulin Canyon and Cochiti Mesa Area Crags Capulin Canyon

New York4,627

The Gunks Powerlinez Trapps, The Crane Mountain B: Chapel Pond Pass

North Carolina3,174

Rumbling Bald Linville Gorge Moore's Wall Crowders Mountain

North Dakota62

Ohio1,903

Mad River Gorge & Nature Preserve

Oklahoma1,497

Charon's Gardens Mount Scott

Oregon4,163

Smith Rock Callahans, The

Pennsylvania3,255

Safe Harbor Haycock Mountain (Nockamixon)Safe Harbor North

Needles Of Rushmore, The Mount Rushmore National Memorial Spearfish Canyon Custer State Park Sylvan Lake Mount Baldy Iron Mountain East Side SD Palisades State Park

Tennessee2,755

Obed & Clear Creek Stone Fort (aka Little Rock City)Tennessee Wall, The

Texas3,539

Hueco Tanks North Mountain Enchanted Rock State Natural Area Reimers Ranch Barton Creek Greenbelt Reimer's Ranch North Shore

Utah15,760

Central Wasatch Little Cottonwood Canyon Indian Creek Big Cottonwood Canyon Boulders - Little Cottonwood Maple Canyon Joe's Valley Rock Canyon Ogden Potash Road Maple Canyon Road Moe's Valley Right Fork Logan Canyon Jungle, on the Aquarius Plateau Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The Sandstone Alps Big Water Boulders Right Fork

Vermont1,832

Bolton Area Smugglers' Notch Smugglers' Notch Bouldering Bromley Forest

Virginia5,524

Grayson Highlands State Park (6) Jaybird Gorge Breaks Interstate Park Listening Rock Trail Great Falls Boneyard Area Haw Orchard Harkening Hill Lightside

Washington8,448

Leavenworth Icicle Creek Index Frenchman Coulee, AKA Vantage ** Bouldering in Icicle Creek Exit 38 Echo Basin Tumwater Canyon San Juan, Fidalgo & Whidbey Islands Gold Bar Boulders Mount Erie

West Virginia3,945

New River Gorge, The New River Gorge Proper Coopers Rock State Forest Meadow River Gorge Cheat Canyon Seneca Rocks Bozoo Summersville (Gauley River) Area Endless Wall Bozoo Bouldering

Wisconsin4,540

Baraboo Range Devil's Lake Devil's Lake Bouldering East Bluff West Bluff Governor Dodge State Park East Bluff 04 - East Rampart East Bluff South Face East Bluff North West Bluff North

Wyoming5,678

Lander Area Vedauwoo Ten Sleep Canyon Sinks Canyon Wild Iris Laramie Peak Wildlife Habitat Management Area

Quarry Area0

Walden's Ridge Park0

West Buttress0

Financial Contributors

Total: $3,979.54

Adelore Lessard

Rafael Kennedy

Incognito

Clinton Lunn

Colin

Phillip Kamps

Alex Mandrila

Luke Nowicki

Glenn 'devalias' Grant

chris blatchley

EarthAdam

Incognito

Molly

Nadeen

Guest

Jordan Laramie

Dane Shea

Kao

Jesse Scarborough

Ethan Karlinsey

Incognito

Tina Dinh

Guest

Raphael Fritz

Emily Graham

Guest

Matt Gowie

Jake Z

Donate

Volunteers

Total: 83

As an open source project, OpenBeta's success is thanks to a diverse group of volunteer contributors, many of whom are not even rock climbers. We deeply appreciate their vital role in shaping OpenBeta.