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One Hand Clapping

FA Peter Hann - 1972
UPDATED BY aph 

Description

The standard route is 3 pitches. Black Wall is a spider web of routes, so there are many variations. Check out the Horniak book if you're interested.

  1. (5.8, ~160') Climb up from the left-facing corner through the double cracks in a chimney-ish bulge. Continue to the anchors at the p2 finger crack.
  2. (5.9, ~100') A finger-y section then a face-y section take you to the namesake left leaning corner. There's an intermediate belay to your right after the corner. Follow the seam up and left to belay at a large ledge. Extend early pieces or suffer drag.
  3. (5.7, ~130') From the ledge, take the path of least resistance along a right-angling crack through a few bulges to the summit.

Location

Left approach: Look for the climber's trail opposite the uphill parking area. If you very quickly pass a lone large boulder on your left then you're on the trail. Whenever the trail peters out, look for talus and scramble to the high point. As you get close to the wall, aim for the big left-facing corner.

Protection

Doubles to 3". A 4" piece can be nice on the first pitch, but there are lots of options. A few slings for p2.