Louise Falls is the gem of the area and has the crowds to prove it. Expect company on weekends. The climb is often very wide, making different lines possible. The crux final pillar(s) can be kicked out casual WI4 or dead vertical hard WI5. 
 
 Beware of the daggers while on route! 
 
 P1-2 70m: Climb up to the center belay cave from the ground in one long pitch if possible. Some folks break this up into two pitches and build a belay in the safest looking spot. Mind the overhead hazard. 
 
 P3 30m: The crux. Turn the curtain from the belay cave and head straight up. The top has trees and the casual walkoff.

From the Lake Louise Chateau, the route is obvious at the back right side of the lake. Follow the sled trail around the lake or walk across the frozen lake. Descent: Walk off climbers right (usually a donkey trail) and otter slide back down to the base. Very quick. The route can be also be rapped, but with the crowds the walk off is highly encouraged, easier, and safer.
Screws

Louise Falls

This is one of those mixed routes that seemed relatively obscure until fall 2018 and then became one of the social media IT routes of the Rockies for a period. Like all mixed routes, the amount of ice will dictate how it climbs but when the second pitch is mostly ice this is a high quality and relatively low commitment climb.

P1 - Climb some easy ice into a chimney with a chockstone. Exit left via some fun but awkward 5.9ish moves to a snow ledge. Pull a bulge and walk up a low angle snow slope to the ice off left of the base of P2. You will pass a nut and piton anchor on a cliff off right in the middle of snow slope which is the second rap anchor on the descent. Build an anchor at the base of P2 with screws or a thread around the ice. M5, 55M+

P2 - Climb a vertical vein of ice with good stems off rock using a mix of rock and ice pro. In fall 2018, this was basically a WI5+ pitch with occasional rock pro. The FAs rated this pitch M6. P2 ends in alcove at the top of the ice vein. In 2018, the anchor was a nut with a thread backup but could use some better hardware. 40M, WI5+, up to M6

P3?? After the ice ends at the top of P2, it appears some harder dry tooling could lead up one more pitch to the top of the cliff that contains the route.

Dark Nature is located in a high chasm above the slope across Lake Louise from Louise Falls. From the Chateau, follow the tourist/sled trail down the right (north) side of the Lake past Louise Falls to basically the end of the Lake and walk across the ice and many creeks that feed the Lake to the other shore and slog up the approach slopes which will involve some bush wacking. An alternative is to walk down the center of the lake. The approach slope is definitely exposed to avalanche hazard but the route itself seems more sheltered. 
Screws and standard mixed rack up to #4 Camalot. 2x 60M ropes.

Dark Nature


Decent climb if you're waiting on Louise Falls. You can pull a few easy mixed moves if you want into the cave



10 feet to the right of Louise Falls

Screws

Unnamed

The two Cable Gullies offer a short diversions if Louise Falls is busy and you're looking to kill some time. Also, they make good beginner routes to make sure you've got your systems dialed in.

At the back of Lake Louise. Follow the tourist / sled trail all the way past Louise Falls. The Cable Gullies are just at the end of the lake across the creek that feeds the lake. Cross the creek (usually pretty easy) and you're there.
screws, slings for trees.

Cable Gullies

Lake Louise features several classic ice lines at the back of the lake and beyond. 
  
 Lines in the area: 
 Louise Falls (110m WI4-5) 
 Cable Gullies (15m WI2) 
 Linda Ice Nine (310m WI4) 
 Brewsters (WI4) 
 Oasis (WI3)

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Lake Louise Ice