P1. Start out on the left side buttress at the base of the route and work your way to the bolted anchor under the roof. Climbing can range from 5.6-5.9 depending on what part of the buttress you take to the anchor. 

  P2. Crux pitch - .10d. Technical and balancy traverse past 6-8 closely spaced bolts. Good crimps for hands, small flake edges for feet and a few smears on varnished depressions. Hardest move for me was between last bolt and the bolted anchor.  

  P3. Book says that this pitch is .10a, but it didn't feel any harder than 5.9. Crux is supposed to be off the anchor and protected with two bolts. Remainder of pitch is easy and ends at another bolted anchor. 

  P4. 5.8 boring and uneventful, just climb until you get to the bolted anchor. 

  P5. .10a (book calls it 5.9) Second crux pitch that follows the awkward dihedral between the pillar and the main wall. Stay inside the corner and work your feet up high to an awkward stem or jam the dihedral corner straight in. Seek out good jams and eventual good jugs. Top out on the pillar and belay/rappel from sunbleached slings slung around big blocks. 

  Descent:   Rappel route with one 70m rope or two 60's. If simulrappeling, be careful when lowering from the top of p2, the anchors will be just out of reach and recessed (under the roof). Use prussiks. 

Ringtail

Mountain Beast is a fine route for those who have done the far more classic routes on the Eagle Wall. A few pitches are outstanding, but others are very lackluster. Begin at the far upper right margin of the Eagle Wall, approximately 150' right of Levitation (5.11), and 30' left of the saddle that drops down to the East. Belay from a nice flat area - you should be able to spot the anchors at the end of the first pitch in a heart-shaped alcove.

 P1: Follow a left-leaning crack system to a ledge, then up a short corner with a hand crack to the bolted belay. 5.9.

 P2: Step out of the alcove to the right, head up past a few bolts, then trend straight left past three more bolts and the crux - a very thin 15' or so section of climbing. Belay in another alcove. A good pitch. 5.11.

 P3: Face climb up and up and up. Belay on a ledge in the large left-facing, right-leaning corner/ramp system. 5.6-8?

 P4: Climb up a corner then leave the corner and traverse left and up slightly to a two-bolt anchor. 5.9.

 P5: Face climb up past 9 bolts and a few wire placements to a two-bolt anchor and semi-hanging belay stance. Many of the holds are fragile on this pitch and a delicate touch helps. 5.10.

 P6: Climb up the beautiful face past two bolts and then up a dead-vertical black wall, slotting bomber wires in amazing incut pods. The best pitch on the climb - 5.9+. Belay at a two bolt anchor.

 P7: Wander up and slightly right on lower angle terrain (somewhat more tricky to protect), eventually moving right to belay on a flat ledge at a large tree. 5.6-8?

 P8: Continue up the extremely contrived white slab past seven or so bolts (pretend not to see the much more beautiful dihedral to your right) to a two-bolt belay just below the summit.

 Many of the pitches can be linked. We did it in 5.

 Walk off or rap Levitation with two ropes. With some slings around the tree, it may be possible to rap Mountain Beast with two ropes.

Mountain Beast

This route is considered by many to be the BEST route at Red Rocks. Lynn Hill calls it her favorite route of all time, hard to believe it's better than the free Nose, but to each her own.

 It is located up on the Eagle wall, high above Oak Creek Canyon. The approach follows the creek bed to the back of this canyon then turns right and up a steep but walkable slab/ramp to the base of the Eagle Wall. Allow 1-3 hrs for the hike in. The route can be identified by locating the Eagle made of varnished rock, flying west about 1/4 up the wall. Levitation climbs through the tail of this big birdie. Another landmark is the crux headwall on pitch 5, with what appears to be a splitter crack in it. Aim for this.

 Pitch 1: locate a nicely varnished and smooth corner system with about 4 bolts near the right side of the Eagle Wall. Climb this awesome pitch to a bolt anchor 100' 5.10

 Pitch 2: step right from the belay and gain an open corner. Head up steep but juggy flakes, clipping bolts where gear would work. Aim for the big roof above. Make incredibly fun and exciting moves out this roof with bolts well above your head the whole way, to another bolted anchor. I was tempted to skip some clips exiting the roof as they are 2 ft apart, but clipping them for your 2nd is a nice gesture. 90' 5.11

 Pitch 3: Follow a left-trending crack system till it ends, then face climb back right towards a left facing corner. Climb up this corner to yet another bolted anchor. there is more gear on this pitch than it looks from below. 100' 5.8

 Pitch 4: Climb a line of bolts straight up from the belay passing an awkward bulge, into a crack system. Follow this to the base of the headwall with a crack in it. 110' 5.10

 Pitch 5: The business. Head up the steep CRACK, with lots of BOLTS next to it. A great exposed pitch. The crux is about 20 ft off the belay, where fist jams and hand jams and finger locks gain a shallow dihedral. Fight the pump and it's on to another bolted stance. 90' 5.11 13 bolts.

 Pitch 6: Continue with the same crack system but at a less extreme angle to....you guessed it a bolted anchor. 80' 5.10

 Pitch 7: Follow a left facing corner to some pumpy liebacking around a bulge. 90' 5.10

 From here most people rap with two ropes. There are two more pitches, I have not done them or seen them, they are 5.9 and 5.8. You can walk off from the top of the wall, but rapping is casual. I don't know the details of the walk off.

Levitation 29

Dances with Beagles is a three-pitch line that heads up the left side of the Eagle Wall approximately 200' left of Eagle Dance.  The climbing is fairly good but is detracted from by a lot of crumbling holds and some bad bolts. 

  Begin about 30' left of a two-tiered pillar/150' left of the big pillar that marks the start of Eagle Dance.  You should be able to spot a thin seam protected by two bolts, and if you look carefully, a two bolt anchor above. 

  P1: Climb up the seam and face above for 120'.  Despite lots of wire placements, a fairly serious lead.  5.9+. 

  P2: This is the great pitch of the climb.  Step off the belay to the right and climb the left-leaning finger crack that splits the varnished, sheer face above.  The crux comes at the end of the crack with decent pro at your feet.  A no-hands rests follows before a secondary crux pulling the little rooflet.  There is a bolt here, but the hanger is cracked, above this expect very little gear on the way up to a two bolt anchor.  5.11+ 130'. 

  P3: Leave the wires behind, and grab the draws for 160' of face climbing past 18 bolts.  Almost every other hold seems capable of breaking, and since almost every other bolt has a cracked hanger, they may or may not stop you in the event of a fall.  There is one nice new bolt protecting the crux, a STEEP, fun sequence up the headwall.  Sustained 5.11 climbing. 

  Overall, my partner and I agreed that the route is worthwhile for the awesome second pitch and the climbing up to and through the headwall on the third pitch, but the 100+ feet of bad bolts and rock after that was a serious detractor.  This climb would be fun to round out your day after Levitation (by the way, despite ratings in the book, this is definately harder), but not as a destination in and of itself.

Dances with Beagles

This route is really easy to follow as it takes all the obvious weaknesses and follows enough bolts to never get lost. From a shallow dihedral 50 feet east of a 150' pillar the climb goes up through the Eagles neck on the standard 5th pitch. The overhanging bolt ladder on the 8th pitch is a sandbag but the incredible positioning makes for a pleasant aid pitch. The route continues all the way to the top of the wall and that is worth doing. However  most people rap 1 or 2 pitches after the bolt ladder as it is just so convenient to rap. This a fabulous must do Urioste classic.

Eagle Dance

This is the easiest way up the Eagle Wall.  Given the length of the approach and descent, it's a long day.  Due to lack of fixed anchors, you cannot rap this route so plan on going over the top (leave extra water, etc in the creek bed before heading up the the base of the wall). 

  I found the crux pitch a bit scary for 5.8, there is pro but some 15' runouts, but a 5.9 leader should have no problem with it (except for this one pitch, the rest didn't even seem 5.8).  The final pitch used to be very runout but there is now a bolted alternative. 

  I've heard several negative opinions on this route from people who would give it one or even zero stars.  The rock is not as good as it is on other routes to the left.  I enjoyed the length and position of the route, so I give it 1.5 stars rounded up.  If you are up for the challenge, Eagle Dance or Leviation 29 are much more highly regarded. 

  Follow the approach ramp up and right, past the start of Eagle Dance and Levitation 29, until you reach a sort of a col where you can look down into the Painted Bowl.  The route begins at the col.  We found the route fairly easy to follow using Swain's description, just follow the easiest line up cracks to the right of a buttress leading up.  We thought we would be able to chat with friends on Lev 29 but this is around the corner and no communication was possible. 

  After about five pitches there are two alternatives: (1) head up and then angle left as in this               

Eagle Wall from the lower Painted Bowl with routes marked (note that bottom pitches of these routes are not visible due to the "foreground bump")      , or (2) traverse right to an obvious left facing corner (easy), belay and then climb the corner (crux).  The second alternative seems to be slightly harder but is followed by many parties (including us) because it is such an obvious corner. 

  Eventually you will reach a final slab, the original 8th pitch went up and left 5.5X to the summit.  However now there are a bunch of bolts leading straight up at about 5.7 for a much less terrifying finish. 

  Swain claims the descent can be done in an hour, but this is speedy.  We followed his descent description and made no wrong turns; we were not in a hurry as we were hoping our friends on Lev 29 would catch up so it took us at least 2 hours from the top all the way to the car. 

  There is an entire chapter about this route in Red Rock Odyssey

Rainbow Buttress

Climb the long first pitch of the Rainbow Buttress to the big ledge.  Scramble right to a small pine tree.  Climb the face past an uninspiring old bolt in less inspiring rock.  Then climb cracks up and right, eventually belaying at a platform to the left of the big chimney system. 

  Face climb up and right to gain the cracks of the main chimney.  Pass the big overhang and continue up the cracks on the left for a few pitches.  The route joins Rainbow Buttress on the large ledge with the pine tree, one pitch below the top. 

  Hike west and follow the standard Oak Creek descent route.

Kaleidoscope Cracks

This beautiful 1000 foot wall with the prominent patina shaped like an eagle flying west is the home of several Urioste classics like Eagle Dance (V 5.10 A1) and Levitation 29 (V 5.11). 

"Our mission is to protect access to climbing in Southern Nevada by encouraging responsible stewardship and community involvement among local climbers."

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Eagle Wall