The crux of this route is the notorious offwidth second pitch. It can be well protected with a #4 Camalot placed deep in the crack. Most parties prefer two #4s though I have led it safely with one #3.

The first pitch starts down on the Tombstone ledge and is a 5.7 serrated crack that has a short flaring 5.8 crux up high. Careful on the crux, it comes just above an ankle crushing ledge.

The second pitches O.W. is rewarded by one of the best hand cracks at the Leap.

The third pitch climbs a rapidly steepening face to a fixed pin and then rounds a very windy and exposed arete, across an exposed ledge and up to two fixed pins that can be backed up with a .75" piece.

The rest of the route is a classic 4th-class to easy-5th-class dike hike that climbs up the face to the top. Not much harder than climbing a ladder.

Traveler Buttress

Its name gives good indication of what to expect.

The first pitch follows a nice hand crack to wide hands then fists. Belay at the fixed pin and nut on a nice ledge.

The second pitch immediately pulls a small roof to a fixed bong then out left under a long roof (crux) while underclinging an offwidth and sliding a #4 along. Don't leave gear in this roof because it will get sucked up into the crack. Now follow a chimney while arm barring a wide crack for balance. Climb up into the now obvious squeeze chimney and place a #2 up high. Drop back down to the ledge and squeeze through the chimney with your feet smearing behind you and your ass hanging out under the roof. Great exposure here. Move out around the corner on good jugs then up into a chimney. Save a #4 for the belay.

The third pitch climbs on the face up to an alcove where you move out around the corner to the right on dikes and up the runout face (easy, on big dikes) to a good ledge with good pro.

Pitch four follows a crack to another good ledge.

The fifth pitch is an easy dike hike much like the last pitch of Travelers. Some pro can be found, or run it out to the top. Lots of fun and one of the most exposed routes at the leap.

Really wide and kinda scary.

Eeyore's Enigma

This is an excellent bolted face climb. The bolts have all been replaced and no gear is required. It shares it's top anchors with Absolutely Brilliant. It is a bit difficult to get to but well worth the effort

Dragon Back

Begin climbing up Eeyores Enigma keeping an eye out for the crack splitting the overhanging wall to the right. Transfer into the overhanging crack as soon as you can (about 40ft up). Tight fingers, pumpy off hands, thin feet and bomber jams are what you can expect on your way up this route. Just before your palms pump out from the jams, the route turns into a fierce lieback past a bomber pin to the chains. The gear on this route is absolutely bomber the whole way.

While at the chains, take the opportunity to traverse out right for two more pitches and climb the route Under the Big Top (5.10d).

Freak Show

Cross Town Traffic is a variation and continuation to Purple Haze.

Beging climbing up Purple Haze. Once you climb over the bulging crux above the small ledge, start looking for a way to traverse across the face to the right and into the thin overhanging crack that's mostly hidden from view until you get there. Perfect fingers and some hands on a slightly overhanging wall. What more could you ask for?

Cross Town Traffic

This is a Lover's Leap classic which offers a unique experience to the adventurous climber.  It climbs the huge gash between the central wall and main wall.  For the full experience climb this in winter.

From the ground below the gash find two left-facing open books and climb the right one(5.7) to Main Ledge.  Now the fun begins.  Enter the gash and climb three pitches to the top passing most of the chockstones from the  inside of the gash(your choice!).  The climbing is fun and interesting with lots of chimneying and stemming.

P2 ~100ft

Start up the cracks along the left but don't be afraid to do a little gardening on the right! A bunch of hidden jugs and nice edges are covered by dirt and moss. There's a few awkward moves past the garden crux and you'll top out onto a nice ledge with 4(!) rusty pitons and aging cordelette as your belay station. Back up with pro at your discretion.

P3 ~90ft

The beginning of the cave system and a little taste of this route's donkey-braying chimney system. Stem your way up the cave with some exceptional footholds and spectacular stalactites. There are a few ledges with lots of loose debris (pinecones, rocks, dirt, bark/branches) so take care not to shower your belayer with too much choss. There's a few pieces of gear (an orange sling turned green from moss/mold, pitons) but count on placing gear in the cracks up. There's a belay station should be at a large ledge with two pitons on your right while facing the back of a cave.

P4 ~90ft

The crux pitch! Prepare to grunt and bray your way up this chimney system. Start close to the cave as possible and then pull on a rock roof up and over while simultaneously stemming and muttering obsceneties. Not much to say here other than it's a full body workout and you may or may not be covered in moss and bird shit at the end.

P5/scramble up a gully

We decided to rope up here to the top due to the sheer amount of loose soil, rocks, and tree branches along the gully. From the top of P4, it was about 50m to the top. I placed two cams in that distance on the sketchier parts but this could easily be scrambled if you're brave. Exit to the left towards the ledge and belay off a tree where the ground flattens out.

Downclimb:

Follow the trail to the east/north down back towards lover's leap campground.

Eeyore's Ecstacy

Begin climbing up an often dirty broken up series of cracks to gain access to the shallow corner system above. Follow the cracks to a steep bulge where stemming and perfect hand jambs lead you to the anchors.

Cheap Shot

This new (2006) face route on Main Wall is excellent!  Climb up to a bolt, up left into a flake which can be protected with #1 or #.75 Camalots, past another bolt to another flake which takes good cams as well.  Then, another 5 or so bolts to the anchor.  Rap off with a 60m rope.  Lowering will kill your rope on this one.

Absolutely Billy

Climbs just to the left of Corrugation Corner. Start in a finger crack and pull a reachy move to the first bolt. Move up on decent holds to the spaced-out bolts. A few pieces of gear can be found along the way and are much appreciated. Rap off the bolts at the belay on Traveler's Buttress. It's about 140ft to the anchors. Bring two ropes or plan on rapping off one of the bolts down low. Kinda old school and a bit spicy for the grade. CI edit: The first two bolts were not there originally, Yikes!

Crash Landing

This is a slightly right leaning discontinuous thin crack on the main wall.  It looks like it seams out in many places, but every time you pull up and look in, it opens up to accept gear.  Mostly dike climbing around the crack with occasional jams.

About 80 feet up, it bumps left a little into a hands/big hands crack through some shrubs.  Feel free to help garden these shrubs.  25' of scrambling  up lower angle blockyness to the two bolt metolius rap hanger station.

You must have a 70m rope to rap, you barely make it with stretch.

Blue Cab

Work your way up technical and sustained moves to the "Rest in Peace" before the last bulge.  Crimp the dike over the lip and go big...or fall.

Safe fall for the leap; you won't hit dikes on this fella.

R.I.P.

Epitaph... the true Tombstone Terror of Lover's Leap!  This route starts up a crack right above the most prominent tombstone on Tombstone Ledge.  Another 5.10c, this one is much different in character than the Terror.  The Epitaph was the famous silver mine in Tombstone AZ, that funded the boom that extracted 25 million dollars in a few short years in the 1880s, when the Earp brothers were in town.  The Epitaph was also the name of the local paper.

Start up the well protected crack to the base of the first roof and clip the fixed pin.  Make the moves over the first roof, and follow the dikes and unlock the sequence over the next two roofs.

After the third lead bolt, you can traverse 30' left on 5.0 climbing and rap off a slung block, or else continue up and top out the route on grungy rock.

A well protected lead that is worth doing when on Tombstone Ledge.

Epitaph

The first pitch is interesting and a bit of an adventure (for a description of the first pitch, see comments below) The second pitch can be done without doing the first pitch. (See Beta Photo or read Location information below) The second pitch is excellent hand and finger jams and takes gear well with a couple of fixed pieces also. I know nothing about the 3rd pitch or beyond (there are comments regarding climbing beyond the second pitch in the comments below).

North Country

Sport route just to the right of Stem Mister. Balancy moves bring you to a powerful lieback move to make a long reach to the next hold. Save some strength because the next few moves are no gimmie and you have to place a piece or two of pro before you make it to the next bolt. Chains at top.

Yankee Dog

This route is what Lovers Leap is all about, insane mantles and dikes galore. Some of the moves on this climb can be height dependent. (unless you have good technique)

Nice face/blunt arete. Tech your way up to the crux mantle a few bolts up, then enjoy fine dike hiking to the top.

Power Lust

Face climb to the right of Tombstone Terror. One of the best sport routes at the leap. Clean, steep and well protected. If follows a series of flakes, small edges and pinches up a nearly overhanging white wall. This route's FA was originally done with a couple bolts and pins. Yikes!

Boot Hill

Climb the first short pitch of Eeyores Enigma or Freak Show to the start of Under the Big Top. Once at the start, begin traversing under the big roof out right. Look for a piton and possibly some old slings to mark the spot where to build a hanging belay. Make sure to stop here least you be stricken with unbelievably horrific rope drag. Continue climbing out right ending at the bolted anchor and ledge that is the top of the second pitch of Travelers Buttress. Continue up Travelers or rappel to the ground with a 70m rope, or if you have a 60m, make a short rappel to the shotty anchors of Purple Haze and make one more rappel from there to the ground. Bring a leaver sling!

Under The Big Top

Climb dikes to a bolt about 15' up, then up and left over a small roof (nuts protect this section) into a shallow groove with a seam/tips crack in the back. Make some fun moves (crux) to another bolt, then continue up the widening crack to somewhat steep terrain to a shared anchor (bolts, chains) with Silly Willy Crack.

Deadpool

A varied four-pitch climb that goes to the highest point on the Leap. Follows the huge right facing corner just to the right of Traveler's Buttress. First pitch is in the corner. The second pitch sneaks out on the left face leading to the base of a chimney. The third pitch climbs the chimney, traverses 5.7 past a fixed piton, and then hops on a beautiful exposed arete. The fourth pitch is basic and can be avoided with a 60m rope.

Corrugation Corner

P1: Start up a 5.7 flake that is laden with large dikes. Climb up to the white bowl and belay here on three fixed pins.

P2: Continue up the prominent right-leaning crack that is a lot harder than it looks. The pro is good and abundant. Tight finger locks on a steep wall with no feet bring you through the crux. Belay at the small ledge just under the roof on two good bolt anchors.

P3: Continue straight up over a horrible-looking roof which is not as bad as it looks or go out right for a slightly harder variation with two closely spaced bolts for pro. Once over the roof, move out left up a series of cracks littered with fixed pins. Follow these cracks up the wildly exposed 5.9 face on large dikes and hand jams up to a large grass-filled ledge and belay there.

P4: Now continue up and left over some less-than-traveled rock; any number of ways (all about 5.6) to the top. Good stuff.

LOCATION: Starts just left of Stem Mister and Right of Power Lust. For add'l information see the Beta Picture herein

North Face Route

Climb up Blue Cab or the first pitch of the North Face, Stem Meister or Yankee Dog continueing past the bolts to the big white scoop above. On the left side of the scoop, climb a short steep (5.10) broken section to a ramp that leads to the start of Wall Flower. This is on the left side wall of the white scoop.

Start up the overhanging crack on the left side of this wall. Steep hands and fingers, a fist or two past a cruxy section and more fingers and hands up an unrelenting wall. Follow the left crack above until it finally ends at a long section of overhanging jugs. Climb up overhanging jugs (5.10 at least) for about 15 to 20 feet to the chains. The overhanging jugs are totally unprotected but the climbing is so steep and high up that if you fall, even from the anchors, the only thing you could possably hit is air. Note that taking the fall from just before the anchors could cause one to "Poo Poo" their panties!

Batmans Nightmare

Clown Car is a dinky but fun variation to Power Lust.

Just to the right of Power Lust is a filthy black runoff streak of dark lichen.  Hidden under this lichen is a crack.  However, the crack doesn't start until 25 feet or so off the main ledge.

Clip the first three bolts of Power Lust then step right into the Clown Car crack.  The crack trends right almost touching Blue Cab before doglegging back to the left, and finishing at the Power Lust anchor.  How convenient!

This climb is very similar in style and difficulty to the neighboring Blue Cab--lots of face moves on dikes with a crack for your gear.  You don't need a 70m rope or a second line to get off this one though.

Clown Car

This route starts out as a steep face climb then goes over a small overhang. Above the overhang make some great stemming moves using the feature on the left (this feature is part of the 3rd pitch of North Face) then up and right to the top anchors of Dragon Back. A must do on the leap ticklist. This is a very well protected classic face route at the leap, the only difference is you're actually doing fun moves instead of the standard mind numbing dike mantels that the leap is famous for. The route has several thin moves that lead to a roof that is tricky then there are a few moves after the roof that are pretty crazy. In conclusion this route deserves to be done more and is a blast to climb.

Absolutely Brilliant

Start on an overhang above a small cave just to the right of Travelers Buttress. Pull the short pumpy overhang to a small ledge. Rest up, the rest is a sustained off-hands pump fest. Continue straight up to stay on Purple Haze or move into the crack out right to continue up the Cross Town Traffic variation. Anchors (good enough) at the top. You need a 60m rope to rap.

Purple Haze

60' corner climb, 50' right of Corrugation Corner. Good stemming, quality climb. It's like a shorter, less-classic Hospital Corner. Chain anchor.

Stem Meister

This is an adventure climb. Not done much but give it a go and give us an opinion. I did the first pitch early on in my career and found it "interesting"

Wall Flower

This difficult crack lies below Main Ledge, to the right of the first pitch of "Traveler Buttress". Very thin jamming leads to a two Bolt anchor.

Silly Willy Crack

Start climbing up just left of Corrugation Corner (or climb Corrugation Corner) and traverse left to a big horn wrapped with slings. Nuzzle yourself behind the horn to belay.

Begin climbing up a thin face with an even thinner crack to some gear and a bolt. Follow the bolts traversing right under a wildly overhanging roof. Big pumpy moves end at a despirate finish rounding the roof to a two bolt anchor. Lower off out in space and back to the horn belay so your belayer can have a go.

Thunder Struck

This is probably the best 5.10c pitch at the Leap.  This route is located around the corner to the left of the start of Traveler Buttress.  The climb gets its name due to the large rocks at the base that look like tombstones.  The first 15ft are unprotected so don't fall.

Face climb up to the roof and work to get your first good gear in place.  Follow the thin crack with jams and liebacks.  The climb does not let up until handjams are reached above the small roof.  Follow a widening crack to a set of anchors at 80ft.  A real gem...

Tombstone Terror

The old aid seam up and right of the 3rd pitch of Travelers Buttress, mostly pins and a few cams to a 2-bolt anchor.

Travelin' Man

CRAGS is a nonprofit organization protecting access to Northern California climbing areas, advocating for climbers’ interests, constructively addressing the concerns of landowners and other land users, and working to keep climbing areas clean, safe and healthy. Our Mission Get Involved Make a Donation

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Main Wall