Blood Moon

This summer Drew Marshall and I (Jacob Cook) got sucked into developing a new multi-pitch route on the North Face of Habrich. High above Squamish, it’s a bit of an insane place to have a project, but the quality of stone and the beauty of the area kept us making the 3 hour one-way hike up and over the Habrich West col.

The route is characterised by steep burly crack climbing, featuring five wild and engaging pitches and then a romp to the summit on easier terrain. The crux is a laser-cut, long and feisty tips crack with the airy crux right at the end - protected by the smallest offset cam a little way below your feet. But pitch five is maybe the full day-crux as your arms are pretty blasted by then (Or any least mine were!) Another long 30m pitch of flared hand jams and the full array crack techniques, with the main difficulty being managing the pump right until the very end!

The location is amazing, the rock is as good as it gets and the climbing is all time, hopefully this one gets some attention!

Blood Moon - 13a 300m - first ascent

Thanks @pim.shaitosa for these amazing images and @bronwynhodgins for joining us on the photo mission, since Drew (very reasonably!) prefers actually climbing to taking photos.

Micro cams, small nuts, triple .3, .4, .5, double .75 and #1, single #2 and #3