Peter's Project Right Side

Flatus

Anemia

Algae

Callipigeanous Direct

No Trump

Sewing Machine

Kamikaze

Man and Superman

Ostentation

Double Clutch (AKA Chickens Don't Fly)

Michael's Project

Callipigeanous Crack

Anemic Ladder

Jamboree

Broken Ladder

Asleep in a Fuk-nes Dream

Superman

Ottobahn

Black Rib

Peter's Project

OpenBeta plagiarized this description from Mountain Project contributor James Schroeder, who remains the original copyright holder. You can find the original work here:

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105730691/peters-project

Peter's Project is the route to do at Devil's Lake. The 5.7 climber will be well-challenged by the route's initial low crux. However, this toil will be rewarded with excellent climbing on the beautiful, low-angle face above. Even those climbers with more experience should not underestimate the funky body-English required to negotiate the polished holds and finger-locks in the first twenty feet - more than one 5.10 climber has been humbled by the sequential nature climbing here.

After the start, the angle, and difficulty, drop considerably. Here, climbers can choose to follow the right-angling crack to a pine tree, finishing on chunky, unaesthetic climbing above the tree. Preferably, and to get full-value from the route, many will head left, working into another crack system where they will enjoy excellent climbing in a beautiful position. All should pause at one of the many comfortable rests to take full-advantage, soak in the amazing view of the valley below, lean back, take a deep breath, look up at the sky and laugh at the world for a few seconds. It is here where, with the sunshine on their faces, many climbers have found the answer to the eternal question "Why?"

For those hoping to maximize their experience on Peter's, the route offers one more optional (although some purists and the 1970 Climber's and Hiker's Guide call it mandatory) challenge. Having taken the left crack system, climbers will find themselves deposited on a comfortable ledge, where they will encounter another ledge to their left, separated from the main wall by a #3.0 C4 size crack (a long sling is useful here). From this ledge, a two or three move sequence provides a final, but tenuous, upper-crux. The further left the climber stays the more difficult this sequence is.

After surmounting the "headwall" a move or two on blocky terrain deposits the climber at the base of a giant boulder. A few cams in the #0.75-#2.0 C4 size range will allow for quick and efficient anchor construction.

OpenBeta plagiarized this description from Mountain Project contributor James Schroeder, who remains the original copyright holder. You can find the original work here:

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105731009/michaels-project

Michael's Project is a stunning line that lies just around the prow of 09: Many Pines Buttress from its slightly more classic neighbor Peter's Project. Michael's, like Peter's, has a low crux that leads to easier, aesthetic climbing above. Unlike Peter's, a route that is adored by all, Michael's inspires strong opinions in both directions. Simply put, climbers either love Michael's or they hate it.

From the base, Michael's appears to be an appealing, straightforward crack system, that forms the line of weakness up an impressive wall. But then, from the base, it is easy to look past the start. Reviewing the comments below (or even the entire forum, Michael's Project:  Timeless classic or horrific sandbag?, on the subject) will give the aspirant climber quite an education in the variety of opinions surrounding the quality of climbing to be found at the beginning of Michael's. Almost everyone who has climbed Michael's, will agree that the start is awkward, wide, polished and often slimy. The disagreement about Michael's concerns whether the climbing beyond the start properly compensates the climber for what he or she endured to get there.

Having groveled (and there really is no other word for it, except maybe "thrutched") up the difficult, off-width, inside-corner start, the climber can reach back-and-to-the-right, latch a jug just around the corner on the face left of Callipigeanous Crack (continuing straight up the inside corner would place the climber on Kamikaze - a dubious proposition indeed). After establishing on the right-hand face, the climber is richly-rewarded with the route he or she had expected in the beginning. Good holds on the face lead the climber up to where it is possible (and indeed, desirable) to head back into the corner and continue to the top on solid jams. The route finishes in a narrow hanging gully.

In the end, an ascent of Michael's Project (especially on the sharp end) is a rite of passage for all DL climbers. So, grab a rope, a rack, a willing partner and get out there to experience Michael's for yourself. Only then can you add your voice to the cacophony of firmly-held opinions. Love it or hate it, you'll never forget it.

OpenBeta plagiarized this description from Mountain Project contributor James Schroeder, who remains the original copyright holder. You can find the original work here:

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106204031/anemic-ladder

This is just a little linkup that I think people should be aware of because it is a decent lead that is often open, and a great way to add mileage to an East Bluff touring day.  It uses the start of Anemia to avoid the unprotected thin start of Broken Ladder which it finishes on to avoid the awkwardness at the top of Anemia.

Start up the corner of Anemia and when possible break up and left toward the tree on Broken Ladder.  Finish on Broken Ladder.

OpenBeta plagiarized this description from Mountain Project contributor James Schroeder, who remains the original copyright holder. You can find the original work here:

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105731117/black-rib

Black Rib is an archetypal Devil's Lake face climb and considered one of the benchmarks for the 5.11a grade (at least according to the Swartling guides and tall climbers in possession of a healthy positive apex) in the park. Black Rib uses big reaches to link thin, yet positive edges on its namesake feature. That feature is a black-stained, arete-like protrusion that is imperceptibly less-than vertical. Black Rib is a beautiful and obvious line that will undoubtedly both please the eye and draw the attention of true connoisseurs.

Black Rib is archetypal to Devil's Lake in another, less-inspiring way; it has rules. For full-credit the aspiring ascensionist must start "in the pit" just downhill and right from the feature itself. Starting from the obvious block avoids several difficult (perhaps crux) moves and will certainly draw the ire of the route police. Route police notwithstanding, a partial-credit ascent starting from the block is still a worthy and rewarding consolation prize. Finish in the hanging chimney above the rib proper.

All-told, Black Rib is an excellent route, and should be on the to-do list of all climbers pursuing the 5.11 grade.

Description

Routes in 09: Many Pines Buttress