"This route lies on the south-side entrance of the first gully. It is well protected and makes a good warm-up climb. Climb the broken face past three bolts to the top-chains. It is steep and pushy but has great handholds." - Falcon Guide's 'Rock Climbing Oregon' 2006

 

Silence of the Cams

Nuke the Gay Whales for Jesus

For The Love of God Alice Shut the Bathroom Door

Flying Meatball

Unknown Wide Crack

Scene of the Crime

Plumber's Crack

I Am Not The Man

Inversion Excursion

Barking Spider

Return of Yoda

Jet Stream

Black Market Organ Donor

DaKine

Separated at Birth

Jet Wind

Drawin' A Blank

Raiders of the Lost Rock

Atomic Dust Buster

Bulo Dancing

Nook and Cranny

Don't Call Me Ishmael

Slice of Pie

Some thin airy moves at the beginning lead to jug hauling higher up. A single bolt at the belayer's feet keeps them from being pulled down the gully.

"This splendid route sends perfect rock. It used to follow the crack system to the left of the top bulge, but was recently bolted and now tackles the top bulge. Make an exciting long lock-off balancing on small footholds to a large handhold. Climb through to the top-chains." - Falcon Guide's 'Rock Climbing Oregon' 2006

This climb is a mix of stemming and classic hand jams. The crux is about half way up and can be surmounted with a couple of good hand jams.

This route follows the flaring wide-ish crack that finishes in a chimney. No real offwidth (or crack) technique is required due to many bulbous features and face holds.

Climb up into the hand crack and jam this leftward to a stance. These moves are not trivial. Crimp your way on friable flakes up to the crux sidestep. Serious pendulum fall potential here. Latch the jugs and clip the second bolt. Enjoy the thin but positive slab up to a ledge, and some more pulls to the anchor. This route shares an anchor with DaKine to the right, if you'd rather top-rope this.

"Climb the easy crack system inside the dihedral to its end. Traverse left to the top-chains shared with I Am Not the Man. This crack system protects well with medium to large traditional gear." - Falcon Guide's 'Rock Climbing Oregon' 2006

The hardest line at Bulo, this route seems a mystery to most and the line/beta is not very clear. In my time spent on this climb, I came up with three options for climbing this route: 

  Option #1- Make a few easy moves and clip the first bolt. From here, move leftwards towards the arete and climb the face and arete utilizing crimps and sidepulls with your right hand and the arete with your left. This line actually seems the most natural and logical and the second clip is fairly easy to make. After reaching the good edges above the second bolt, move right and up, finishing direct. This feels like low end 5.12 to me.  

  Option #2- Make a few easy moves and clip the first bolt. From here, head up and right on progressively worsening crimps to a hard lockoff to a decent crimp (crux). Match this crimp and move left to a bad gaston pocket. Find a foot, make a tricky move to another pocket with the right and on to the good edges with the left. Clip the second bolt and continue upwards on large holds to the chains. There is some groundfall potential on this one as it is easiest/best to clip the second bolt after reaching the good hold above it. This feels like mid to hard 5.12 to me. 

  Option #3- This could be the intended line, but it climbs somewhat contrived. Start the same as the other options. After reaching the first bolt, climb directly (just right of the bolt line) utilizing a few mighty small crimps and a gaston or two. The crux involves deadpointing to a decent crimp with the right while not losing contact with the left. There is also groundfall potential on this option as clipping the second bolt before reaching the good edges is nearly impossible. This feels more like low end 5.13 to me. 

  The rock on this route is some of the best at Bulo and each one of these options is fantastic. They are all good tests of technique, footwork and finger strength.

"This route lies at the gully's top on the north-side wall. Climb the crack and faces to a ledge below the first bolt; this section can be supplemented with traditional protection. Step right to a flake, then climb the ramp-face past several bolts to the top anchors. The top anchors do not have chains, so a walk off is necessary. The balancy crux comes between the first and second bolts." - Falcon Guide's 'Rock Climbing Oregon' 2006

"This sport climb sends great rock. Climb large holds up the ramp-face past several bolts to a bulge at the route's top. The crux comes at the fourth bolt. Make a series of balancy moves on pushy and insecure holds through the bulge to the top-chains." - Falcon Guide's 'Rock Climbing Oregon' 2006

This route is described as the best route at Bulo Point and I am not one to argue. This route ascends the left side of the central spine at the main area. If there is one word to describe this long, airy, route it is "relentless." The first clip is a good distance off the ground but it's a pretty simple scramble to get to it. From there, step out onto the detached flake (awkward) and start heading up. There is rarely a good place to take a break and the exposure is heady. The route takes you over three or four bulges that each act like their own crux, with an odd, but not the hardest one, coming at the top.

It appears that it is possible to approach the first bolt by either climbing up the left side of the spire on the sloppy looking holds or stemming on the right side the then reaching far out to the bolt. Starting on the left side is better and the holds are a more positive than they look. The technical crux comes slightly above the first bolt and involves an awkward balancy transition from the left to the right of the spire. From here good holds lead directly up to another bolt. Then the route becomes an easy (5.7ish) but scary run out ramp which approaches an overhanging bulge. From below the overhanging it is possible to lean back just slightly (be careful!) and reach a bolt up and on the right bulge. Once you clip this bolt, the physical crux is a small boulder problem to get over the bulge. Then the route proceeds up another easy ramp to the chains.

Really fun route. Start in the tiny alcove at the bottom and make some fun little chimney moves to get yourself into position to get over the ceiling / buldge.  Use good holds and heel hook to power through the crux.  The rest is a really enjoyable 5.7 face to top chains that the 10b shares next to it.

"Climb the ceiling's right side, and squeeze through a shallow chimney to a pleasant face. The 5.8 start has good holds to pull through the overhang. The difficult crux comes at the route's top. Climb over the overhanging bulge on sloping handholds to the top-chains." - Falcon Guide's 'Rock Climbing Oregon' 2006

"This area classic is the second-best route in the crag next to Jet Stream. At the first bolt, climb up and right. Follow a series of closely spaced bolts on secure holds with airy exposure. The route's middle section is steep and sustained. Continue to the rock's top and top-chains. This well-protected route makes an excellent lead climb and is highly recommended." - Falcon Guide's 'Rock Climbing Oregon' 2006

This route is one of the hardest at Bulo Point. Begin the climb by following an easy ramp and clipping the first bolt of 'Separated At Birth'. Angle left towards another relatively easy clip. Here is where the difficulty begins. There are a number of different options for making it through the next 10-15 feet. There are some crimps out left and some decent sidepulls in the discontinuous flake system. The difficulties ease after the fourth bolt, with a few easy but somewhat awkward moves leading to the chains.  

  Not the best rock in the area, but the route climbs well and is a good challenge for those looking for something a bit more difficult.  

Fun little low angled bolted face.  Delicate smears midway up, then easy to the top.   

  Could take some small gear lower down, though it looks sketch.

Atomic Dust Buster takes on a slightly overhanging face.  Either boulder in from the right side to clip the first bolt or start down low.  Technical and thin.

The off width crack in the second gully, some stemming and off width moves, but many jugs both in and out of the crack. Crux is just off the ground.

Climb the wide-to-thinner crack on the right side of the main area's short, skinny face. Scramble up some blocks and duck left of the Jet Stream face. Hand jams are supplemented with face holds and stemming. The crack thins at the top and requires some reaches between better holds in the crack. Has its own anchor, and the Return of Yoda anchor is easily within reach as well.

An overhanging route among mostly slab climbs.  It has very positive holds although you may find the integrity of one or two questionable.  Climb up onto a ledge, the rest of the route is then just a bolted boulder problem.

One of the few but truly exceptional crack climbs at Bulo. Short, sweet, and takes good pro all the way to the anchor. No rappelling material is on the anchor as of fall 2019 so you will have to rap off an anchor on the other side of the tower. 

Bulo Point is a great place for beginners since most of the routes can be toproped. There are many fun leads as well, over 15 routes with a couple overhangs, mostly in the 5.6 to 5.10 range. There are also many great boulder problems in the area, check out the old Portland bouldering guide

### Getting there

The last mile to Bulo Point is on an unpaved forest service road. As of 2023 it's passable in a passenger car.  Check with local climbers for road and snow conditions before heading out.

See [map](https://storage.googleapis.com/openbeta-prod/u/abe96612-2742-43b0-a128-6b19d4e4615f/JHGwpfTFqm.png)

1. From Highway 35 go to [Waypoint 2](https://maps.app.goo.gl/bEuhj3gQ4JuwmwjP6) (NF-44 to Dufur valley rd, then turn right to NF-4420/Cold Spring rd) 
2. The road veers left at this point. Do not follow it. Reset your car odometer and **continue straight on the dirt road for 1 mile**.
3. Drive pass a car pullout on the left at around 0.9 mile. Continue for another 100 yards to a couple pullouts on both sides of the road. Walk left (under 1 minute) to the top of Bulo point. 

- Waypoint 1 [45.387364, -121.478141](https://maps.app.goo.gl/t1RqZynFVhf8oyFM6) 
- Waypoint 2 [45.385605, -121.478920](https://maps.app.goo.gl/bEuhj3gQ4JuwmwjP6) 
- Parking 1 [45.373090, -121.474963](https://maps.app.goo.gl/g82748gKeLXivfuU7)

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Bulo Point