Electric Penguin

Critter Ramp

Beer Bottle Rocket

Short left trending bolted line. Slight traverse left then follows a notch upward to the finish.

Located 12 feet left of Furry Critters.

5 Bolts and fixed anchors.

Holē Funness

A fairly short climb up a dihedral corner behind a large pinnacle. Good finger jams lead up to chill ledges around a small overhanging block.

Bolted with anchors.

Wally

Caviar Heaves

Not Quite Funny Drinking Name


A more tame version of the climb to the left. 



Starts just to the right of the small cave, with the first bolt located at the top and right of the cave. 

Bolted with fixed anchors.

I'd Rather be at White Bluff

Dial 911


Finger sized crack that trend up to the right on a slight overhang. Clear the mantle and continue onto a second face climb further back to end. 



Belay should be located right next to a small tree before walking around the arete. 

Bolted with fixed anchors.

Falling Stars

Climb the face to the crack and up ledges to the top.

Start about one meter left of the pinnacle.
Gear required.

Furry Critters


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6 Bolts and anchor


The Cardinal Rule

Shares a start with 'Hangover Overhang' and takes the line of bolts up and left over a roof

6 bolts

99 Bottles of Beer


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5 Bolts and anchor


Furry Critters Direct

This route sits at the edge of a pinnacle and follows up an arete to a striking overhung ledge where the route ends. Unlike many escarpment "5.9s" this rating on this route is fair. The crux of this route is pulling onto the face just below the anchors. With both a good rest before the crux move, and the bolt line directing your falls out into space, this is a great lead for new climbers.

The rock on this climb can stay wet longer than others in the area which is of particular concern as this can make the final moves extremely insecure.

As a final note, the draw line on this route makes cleaning on the way down difficult (particularly if you rappel). It is best to have a second clean on their way up.

This route is roughly 50m from the down climb to the climber`s left. It sits on the edge of the pinnacle and can easily be identified with the striking overhung finish.

Lower or rap off the anchors to get down.

This route is tightly bolted all the way up. There are 7 bolts plus the anchors (if memory serves) so you will need 9 draws. Most climbers should be able to reach the first bolt from the ground.

Hangover Overhang

Three Walls, Two Ledges, No Stars

Gym Faggot

Easy with no rope drag (provided you bring at least 2 double-length draws) and excellent top-out: great for newbies

Left of American Lightweights
Bolted anchor

2-4 Launching Pad

Climb up the corner and step left to the top.

5m left of the first pinnacle.
Gear required.

The Sound of Breaking Glass

Large ledge before reaching first bolt, then overhang. Anchor is basically after topping out. Lots of rope friction on rock if lowering from anchor

American Lightweights

Previously known as 'Crawling on Glass'

Next to "Don't Drink and Drive"
Anchors with rappel rings at the top

Steve's Route


Right most rout in the area. Similar start to "I'd rather be at whites bluff". 



Right most rout in the area. Similar start to "I'd rather be at whites bluff".

Bolts and fixed anchor.

Dans Magical Night in Puja

Fat Crack Overhang

Yasser is a Trad Master


Mellow but interesting climbing.



Left most route at Bottle Glass Crag, just left of the double stack of micro caves.

Bolted with fixed anchors.

Ray's Big Butt


Juggy and overhanging start moves into a short technical move above the cave. 



Located on the left edge of two double stacked micro caves. Look for the first bolt on the top left of the lower larger cave. 

Bolted with fixed anchors.

Captain Caveman

Glass Carpet

Both *Korn-erred* and *Nice Bulge* share nearly the same start with *Korn-erred* being the left option that follows a more prominent crack system with a more overhung start.

Bolted with fixed anchors

Korn-erred

Start below a large layback crack on the outside of the pinnacle. Climb the crack and up left to the top.


Good options for gear placement. Rappel down from 99 Bottles of Beer (5.10b) to the immediate right.


Bottle Glass Pinnacle

Apparently this climb was easier until a piece broke off.

Next to Steve's Route
Anchor with rappel rings at the top

Don't Drink and Drive

Sphinx Crack

Left most crack on buttress

Top rope anchors

Champagne Hangover

Both *Korn-erred* and *Nice Bulge* share nearly the same start with *Nice Bulge* being the right option that features mainly budges and ledges to climb.

Bolted with fixed anchors.

Nice Bulge

Bottle Glass (also known as "Nassagaweya Lookout") is a small sport/trad area between the main Rattlesnake Point wall and Buffalo Crag. Its name comes from the shards of glass scattered around the base of the cliff due to the practices of local teens and drunks. Keep this in mind when selecting footwear for your visit. It sits in the sun year round making it great for early and late season climbing. This area is less crowded than the main wall or BC, but can be busy on weekends.
  
The cliff is rather short in this area ranging from high-ball boulder problem to a little over your typical gym wall. The rock is typical escarpment limestone but is less polished here than at the main wall. Bring a stick-clip as the first bolts on some of the routes are rather high.

Instructional climbing is *not* allowed at Bottle Glass.

Description

Routes in Bottle Glass