Slightly overhanging face.  Climb on crimpers with a hanful of excellent rests in between hard sections.

Deep Six

Climb the flake just right of the start of Vision. Follow the crack system all the way to the top of the wall and rappel from a tree or over Kentucky Pinstripe. You can escape left onto Vision in a couple of places.

Jake Flake

Fun slab climbing to a crux roof to some more fun slab.  Tough on the finger skin but worth the effort if your in the area.  The clips aren't as spread out as the guide makes it seem.  Climb up the iron oxide crimpers, slopers, and side pulls to get below the roof for a decent rest.  Make the tough technical moves over the roof to get to the good hold just past some cool knobs.  Gain the ledge below the last bolt.  Make a few more difficult strechy moves to gain the anchors.

Dog Fight (a.k.a. Circa Man)

A fun route. However, be ready. Moderately overhung with generous holds, it lulls many into thinking it's a typical RRG jughaul...only to be spanked near the top.

Loosen Up

Climb obvious wide crack 10 feet left of Eureka. Good intro to OW. lots of face to help you up and through.

Off With Batman

Can you say vertical jug climbing? This route follows the orange and purple streaks up the vertical wall left of Fahter and Son.

This route is very popular and for good reason.

Despite the easy grade it can seem heady to lead and there is the element of loose rock involved on this route.

It's worth the walk in though, the moves are fantastic and the route unforgettable for beginners.

Eureka

This is the wide overhanging dihedral starting right of the classic beginner line "Eureka." The topout is accomplished by scrambling up a dirty slope to a tree you can rap off, or you can clip the chains a little lower. This could be a high quality line given more traffic.

Howard Roark

A sustained techincal face leads to a diffiuclt boulder problem followed by moderately difficult climbing to the chains. Not sure how often this is tried, but climbs better than it looks!

The Wheel of Time

Wheel of Time area

Sit start on the arete in the middle of

Eraser.

Climb the arete and top out.

Walk off right

Chalk is Cheap

Wheel of Time Ledge

L to R traverse. Begin on the lower ledge on a sloper shelf and traverse right past an arete to a recess with a low angle slab and step off.

Eraser

Route begins on overhanging terrain with high energy, athletic moves on pockets to horizontal ledge/slot. It then changes character into a more technical, balancing, and edging affair with the crux waiting just beneath the anchors.

Out For Justice

Start down low on a left hand crimp and a right hand flake. Traverse right along the crack until you get near the edge of the bolder, throw to a big horn with the right and go straight up to top out. Optionally match hands on the horn to continue around the edge with the right hand on the crack for a solid V2.

Lightbulb

Climb the splitter finger and hand crack off the clean boulder. Skirt right around the roof and continue on up the flake. You can step left to the anchors on Kentucky Pinstripe or continue on up the crack to higher anchors. Very fun!

A cool variation is to step left below the roof and pull it directly on and then continue up Kentucky Pinstripe. This makes a cool route in itself, combining the best parts of the two routes. Similar in grade.

Vision

This is a tricky route down low. Boulder up and establish yourself on the face. Then delicately balance your way to the arete. Relax to the ledge. Rest, take in the view and then launch up the upper face.

The upper face has the best position of any route of this grade in the RRG.

Kentucky Pinstripe

This route is on a vertical wall with many horizontal ledges.  Climb up on easy moves for the first twenty feet until miraculously, all of the holds fade away.  Locate the select few microcrimpers that are offered, then figure out how to use them to reach the jug 4 feet above your head.  Head to the anchors on easier holds.

Disappearer

Climb the lieback dihedral crack.  I don't remember a specific crux.  One of the best 5.7 climbs I've ever done, but I love layback cracks.

Casual Viewing

Fun little boulder problem, definatly worth checking out if you going to global village.

Cant Get Fooled Again

Stem and layback the obtuse dihedral to an awkward mantel onto the sloping ledge

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Global Village