Crimps and Bloods

This might be Drive-by Crag's worst sport route.  With sandy holds until 3/4 height, questionable rock, and mediocre climbing, this route is only worth doing if you have exhausted the crag or are feeling adventurous.

Start up easy, dirty pockets to a roof encounter on mellow edges.  After standing in a scoop over the roof, more easy climbing punctuated by the occasional crack move ends with a thin crux just below the anchors.

The rock and climbing improves as you get higher.

[Redacted]

While not often climbed with more classic 13a's at this crag, Pimp Juice is still worth climbing. It is mainly endurance climbing but has a hard, reachy boulder problem that is tough to read.

Pimp Juice

This fresh addition to the growingly popular Drive By is definitely worth a lap. An opening boulder problem, followed by a powerful pocketed section leads to a long and interesting headwall complete with big grips, healthy run outs and essentially no rests. A few crimps and a final boulder problem guard the chains.

With a little more chalk and traffic this great new line will clean up well.. check it out!

Arachnophobia

Easy jugs plates to a scoop below a steeper upper half.  Negotiate a wandering sequence of edges and pockets to reach the chains.

Sojourner Truth

Start on Pottsville but after clipping the first bolt head left to the crack system. Follow the crack to the top where it ends on juggy slab. Continue to the anchors of Pottsville. Dirty but solid rock.

Captain Turtle Head

Tech through the slab start to the ledge and hang a short draw on the next bolt. Once rested, equip your armor to defend against the blades that lie in the gently overhanging path ahead. Snagging a clean run to the chains on this crimp test piece all but guarantees a finger skills level up!

Does not stay dry in rain.

Stick clip recommended.

Sword Art

DSH is a steep, fun route with a variety of moves and holds.

Jugs lead to the first bolt (some stick clip). A hardish move (11+?) with a few ways to do it leads to the second bolt. Jugs lead up to a ledge and a no hands rest. Easy climbing leads to another bolt and a further rest.

Another 11+ section off the rest leads to a bolt and the last rest for a bit. Rest up and then launch into the business. Steep moves on subpar slopy pockets leads to a hardish clip. From here move up and left to the obvious crack. Climb to the next bolt and clip if you can (right kneebar is helpful). The crux is getting past this bolt to a huge break and a no hands rest. Easy climbing (5.10) up and left leads to the anchor.

Dirty Smelly Hippie

To the right of Whip Stocking is this fun juggy line. Gain the ledge using large jugs then continue up the interesting arete feature before continuing up on sharp edges and jugs to a hole with anchors in it.

Deeper is Better

Navigate the discontinuous crack system to a scary top out. Unless new anchors have been placed, you will need to rappel from the trees above, or walk out right to find the hand rope/wire protected gulley, though you may wish to send down for your boots first. Very aesthetic, very cool!

Linkage Disequilibrium

Lie back the difficult crack\corner, then move left onto the steep face and up into the headwall to stellar finish on giant "chicken head" flakes!

Layback and Groove

Climb through a tricky opening to large plated holds. Resist the pump and find some rests along the way. Keep it together and finish by pulling a final roof to gain the anchors.

Whip-Stocking

Fun plate climbing leads up to a very large ledge. Rest and get ready for the steep exciting finish. Pull around the arete and follow great holds to the top!

Breakfast Burrito

Take on the left or right start, then find your way to a cruxy big move through the blank panel at the 4th bolt where you'll be faced with another interesting decision. Dont let up after this, as there are still some real moves left to tick this one off!

Sun until 130ish

Stays Dry in heavy rain

The Midnight Gospel

A long, pleasent slab pitch that follows good edges and flaring cracks.  The start and the middle are the steepest and hardest part of the route.

The first 6 feet is a bit grungy, but once on the route the rock is great.  Definitely want a stick clip.

This is an excellent option for when the 5.10's at the main Drive-By Crag are mobbed.

Pottsville Escarpment

Techy face to a tenuous bouldery crux on solid orange rock at the last bolt

Guilty Pleasure

A finger and hand crack up a sloping dihedral. Head left to pull the roof, and right to find the hidden 5.6ish top out over the smooth bulge.

Easy to get your rope stuck if you rappel.

Alt. Descent: Bring up a second to clean your gear. Hike ~30ft through the woods to a field. Turn right and walk to the end of the field. A dirt scramble descent is marked by a series of rusted poles.

Mud on the Rug

Among the most distinct "lines" at the Red, Kaleidescope climbs the brilliant, arching arete feature at the far right end of the Drive By crag.  The route offers two unique sections: technical reaches up monolithic, square-cut panels, followed by pumping slopers and slaps up the ever steepening arete.  Ultimately pump-managment is the challenge here, and the last bolt is often skipped in a mad dash for the chains.

Stick clip the first bolt and step off the boulder onto a mungy ledge.  The first tricky section overcomes a leaning arete/dihedral with big moves from slopers.  Move left after a series of long cranks along the arete, then mantle over a small roof to reach the juggy wall.  Recently folks have moved far left to a good shake that was not used on the FA.  Sequential pinches and slopers lead up and eventually right to a strenuous shake on the arete, just below the crux section.  Big moves lead up the left side of the arete, past a difficult clip,  and gymnastic footwork, culminating in a big slap to an obvious under-cling.  Ride the belly of the beast past the last bolt, turn the lip, and sprint for good jugs at the anchor.

Kaleidoscope

Right of Arachnophobia as the trail continues to Bob Marley Crag.  This is the leftmost line on a slabby wall. Jam a short green/mossy crack to reach a distorted hueco beneath the 3rd bolt. Step up onto the face to begin climbing through several cruxes requiring lots of levitation

Giblets

A mantle start leads to a large ledge. Take a rest and then follow good holds up to a section of slopers. Pull through these directional holds and fight the pump to the chains. A great line that is really fun and climbs well.

Check Your Grip

This route climbs better than you think it will.  Make some pretty easy moves to a good rest and climb through the bulge (crux) quickly.

Slick and the 9mm

Boulder through the first two clips to a ok rest. Continue up through a few hard moves to a very good rest. Make sure to recover for the last hard moves before the anchor.

Whipper Snapper

Ironic in its height, at 105ish', this truly is a boulderer's route. With a mix of overhanging jugs, technical slab, cruxy boulder problems, and a pumpy finish, this will test the weakness of any climber who isn't well rounded. This is definitely an adventure route. If you try this and you're hoping for the typical .12c RRG ladder, you're going to hate yourself, and me!! Try not to show up to the comment section TRIGGERED!!! Hard moves, good rests, and some holds that will have you coming back next week when the sendex report looks a little nicer.

Gear Beta:

Extend bolts- 1,2,6,8

Back-Clean bolts- 4,5,7 (All at resting positions)

Dry in moderate rain, until the top black streak starts dripping.

Sun until 1pm

Triggered

Flanked by long, beautiful classics like Hakuna Matata and Fire and Brimstone, Extra Backup is neither striking nor long- hence it gathers dust and spider webs.

Start on some weird pockets and work up and right to a decent hold below the next bulge.  A tough boulder problem on thin edges and a shallow pocket undercling gains a shelf and a no hands rest.

Layback the vertical edge and move right along more thin edges that lead over a small bulge to a tough clip(crux!).

Just as your crimp strength is fading, a good hold a the base of a flaring crack appears.  When you are recovered, negotiate the crack and some small crimps for couple of bolts until you reach better holds.

The final 25 feet of this climb is 5.10 so just hang in there and you should find yourself clipping the chains with no need for extra backup.

Extra Backup

Smooth features and a bright orange headwall draw your eye, but the rock is a bit soft and the route fails to deliver anything but a pump.

Do some fun moves up a slabby arete/groove to a stance below a bulge at mid-height.  Jugs lead to a tricky section getting to a horizontal crack with brittle flakes inside.  Long reaches and decent edges gain the chains.

Junior's Gesture

climb the arete about 20 ft right of whipstocking, with long/reachy moves.  don't get suckered out right to the rest down low, the moves to get back to the climb are awkward.

Yadda Yadda Yadda

This extension to Head and Shoulders continues for two more bolts, up and right to a set of anchors. Carrying the pump from clipping the anchors on Head and Shoulders makes for a tough few moves before the climbing eases up on larger holds.

Knees and Toes

Start up the flake of Head and Shoulders resting well when you can. Break right along the bolts to an early boulder problem that is unusually hard for the Red. Continue up on better holds to another bouldery section on crimps just before the anchors.

Beer Belly

Gnarly crimping on a truly hard slab. If you're a lizard, jump on this and suggest a grade. Seems extra hard for 12a.

Das Krue

Use both of these to jam and lieback your way up the right-angling crack. Grunt through a stopper crux up high. Crack climbing over bolts--fun stuff. I heard someone was trying to send it on gear.

Head and Shoulders

The route start is 10' left of Make a Wish. Climb interesting move up the corner past two bolts, clip the 3rd bolt, (find the no hands knee bar rest and clipping stance) decipher the tricky technical crux which leads to the horizontal ledge. Traverse left past a bolt and then climb straight up to gain the opposing shallow cracks\side pulls, (better on the left). Climb up the face past two more bolts to the anchor. You can climb out right to a large pocket for a better stance to clip the anchor.

A Wave New World

Scramble up to a ledge. Go through a weird sequence on a vertical wall to a lay down rest. Trend up and right on good holds to a decent rest. Finish up on big horizontal plates and don't pump out!

Some people stick clip the first two bolts due to the hard start.

Spirit Fingers

Low angle face climbing at it's best.  You will find yourself teetering on subtle slopers, working  underclings to make perplexing reaches, and shaking out your calves more than your arms.

Scramble onto a ledge and on top of a rotten block.  Make a big move over a roof to a horizontal rail.  Once established on the slab, traverse slightly right into the crux on crimps, slopers, and thoughtful spans.  Slightly better sloper rails continue to appear until mid-heigh where the holds improve.  Once past a hueco, move right to the arete and enjoy 5.9 climbing to the chains.

Return to Sender

The hardest individual moves of this line are right off the ground bouldering through a faint crack system (V8 or V9 is the word on the street but let us be honest with ourselves, this is the red). You are rewarded with a nohands rest followed by a 60ft very steep 13c with a redpoint crux that will thwart many.

The Nothing

Abandoned project that is now a boulder problem. Start on two good holds and climb through sidepulls, crimps and a powerful gaston move. Launch for the finish jug and top out. Can be toproped.

Edit:  This has now been rebolted as "Supercharger" 13d / 14a.  The bottom is now well bolted for a sport lead.  After the ledge you could clip the next bolt and lower to do "Maizy Mae".

Maizy Mae

If you like your sports climbing sporty, try this one on for size. A fun, bouldery start gets you up to the ledge. Then crank on fantastic overhanging edges past four well-spaced bolts to a sit down rest in a little alcove just below the anchors. Enjoy the rest but no need to enjoy it too long...the moves to the anchor aren't hard, just airy and fun.

While airy between bolts, I rather enjoyed the uninterrupted, engaging but not crazy pumpy climbing on this line. I don't think it sees nearly as much traffic as the other routes on this section of rock.

Big Sinkin' Breakdown

Start on George of the Jungle however when the crack takes a hard right follow a line of 3 bolts to bolted anchors.

Jungle Direct

Tired of crimp ladders?  Then Angry Birds is the route for you.  This route offers great rock,  multiple cruxes, varied movement, and requires more than crimping skills to succeed.

Forty feet of pumpy 5.11+ climbing leads to a V5 boulder problem on some small, spaced out pockets that lead to better holds at the left side of a huge shelf. Traverse right, sit down, and relax in the huge hueco.

When you are ready, pull over the roof on good holds, fight through a slopey, tiered shelf, and move right along some small crimps and sidepulls to reach a large, but very pumpy shelf.  Lunge up to some features in a hueco, and power up to another series of large, flat holds.  After shaking out, reach up to a good pocket, make a huge lateral move to best part of a sidepull feature, get stretched out grabbing a very incut crimp and dive for the a huge jug that is affectionately called the "toilet seat".  Gather your wits, and make one more big move just below the anchors.  Remember to save a little juice to clip the anchors!

Angry Birds

Be creative and patient, and get dirty riding this beast. The width is sustained all the way up. Close to the end there is a small ledge where you can take a rest before committing to the top. Climb the face or chimney. Rappel or top out and walk to the right (~50 ft) and down a dirt gully with a fixed rope.

End of Days

Follow a crack of varying sizes up a dihedral, jamming occasional fists and arms for security over sketchy holds. When in doubt, squeeze the butt cheeks. Beware the plentiful plates on both walls of your ascent having a tendency to break off. There's a warm sensation building in the nether regions. Under the first and easier roof, a large block felt creaky, so stay left. You know where this is going. On the second roof and crux, squeeze up a flaring off-width with a hidden hueco, perfectly sized for your tushy or climb onto the outside face of the right wall and take on a little exposure. TAINT's on FIRE! Both ways felt about equally challenging in their own right. Tree anchor on top out. Option to hike back 20 feet to a dirt path and take a right to a short hike down.

Taint’s on Fire

Good holds lead to a crimpy crux about mid way up. After this you get a decent rest and power past a big sloper to the top. Really fun climbing on great holds!!

Fire and Brimstone

This route has good holds but odd sequences. Used as the area warmup but nowhere near as fun as the rest.

May have a spinning hanger on the 4th of 5th bolt.

Make  A Wish

It means no worries for the rest of your days!

Mostly vertical climbing negotiating a few bulges and intermittent cracks, this is a quality route that doesn't see nearly the action of Check Your Grip.

Engaging movement, techy moves and uncaked holds are a welcome change from steep jug hauling, this sequential route is harder to read and delivers a different pump.

Hakuna Matata

**Named after the smaller tree hanging in the larger tree near the base that required trimming for the FA**

I really liked this scruffy little route. Although the rock isn't perfect down low, the climbing is very thoughtful, the crux is engaging, and the huge plates at the top are fun to grab.

Awkward moves get you over a bulge and onto a shelf where you can cop a no-hands rest before the crux. Move up and left into a scoop and make the best of a few disappointing two-finger pockets before reaching better holds. Wander far left, and keep following huge, protruding plates to the top.

Beware of your rope running against the plates when you are cleaning this route. They are pretty sharp and could cut your rope.

The Hanging Tree

This is a great line just left of Kaleidoscope. It arches to climbers right, pumping through several crimp bands. It has cleaned up well in the last few seasons. It features some long deadpoints to crimps and finger buckets, but decent rests are scattered throughout. Before the final moves, snooze on a laydown rest. Take your time here, as the excellent moves above could send you packing.

Easy Rider

Start off the ledge up to a big move below/right of a very crumbly flake that is reinforced with glue. Quest through several more bolts of brown, sandy, juggy choss to finally gain some decent rock for the last two bolts of slopey jugs, pockets, and pinches to a mantle below the chains.

Sounds appealing, eh?

The Business

Spank (a.k.a Tika Monster) climbs up the right side of the steepest wall at the Drive By Crag. It can be recognized as the line immediately to the right of Dirty Smelly Hippy.

Start in a dihedral and climb up past two big ledges. From the second ledge, head up the steep wall (12a) to a big resting hold. From the rest hold, bust a long, powerful sequence to the chains. The rock gets steeper toward the top and the moves require cool body tension.

Because of the vigorous climbing at the top of the route, the last draw is often skipped.

Spank

If you're expecting all slab, then you'll be shook by the steep finale. The grade comes from the cruxy start, and the steep finish. Don't expect an easy onsight, this route's chalk and ticks get rained off quickly. Welcome the clean rock and get creative! Good rock, good rests, good crimps, good slopers, a good jam, a "good" mantel! This thing is pure fun.

Best to belay from down and to the left until the 2nd bolt is clipped.

Does not stay dry in the rain. Sun at 1pm

Fleeing the Scene

Climbs a plated face similar to its classic neighbor, Breakfast Burrito. It gets progressively more difficult as you go higher.

As a new route, beware of some hollow sounding rock down low. This will surely clean up with traffic, which is sure to come given the high quality climbing and fairly soft grade.

Naked Lunch

Slightly overhanging with good holds for most of the way.

Do some easy climbing to the base of a short corner.  A few stemming moves brings you to the base of the steeper headwall.  A brief crux on slopey edges gain better holds.

Look for the cool knob hold and enjoy a quick hand crack just below the anchors.

Harshin' my Mellow

This route is the jaw dropping line in the STEEP amphitheater on the right side of Drive By. This route is just cool. Juggy with sub par feet with thinner hand slots and crimps mixed in the higher you go. It culminates to a crux up high at the peak of pump with a thin 2-3 finger hueco throw to another hueco then to the glory jug. A true enduro testpiece.

Thug Life

Climb through an easy start to the lay down rest. Pull over the roof and climb on big holds to a ok rest at a feature. From here fight the pump as you face the hardest moves on the runout to the anchor.

Primus Noctum

Find the lightning bolt shaped crack just right of Mud on the Rug. Start to the left of the slopey dirty crack on a slabby face with good holds to a ledge. Continue up the lay back dihedral up to where the crack splits a face. The crack eventually makes a hard right turn before continuing to the top.

George of the Jungle

Dangling Participle

Begin by climbing a boulder problem to the shared rest ledge with Dirty Smelly Hippie and Spank. From the ledge, sequential moves on slopey huecos gradually build in difficulty, culminating in a powerful lateral move left to a positive edge. Merge into the final rest of Beer Belly, before tackling its final crux.

Although this gets 13d in the guidebook, numerous ascents by experienced climbers have suggested an upgrade.

Supercharger

Chimney up until it gets wide, then stem your way out to an exiting step across.  Belay from the top to keep the rope from getting stuck when lowering.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Drive-By Crag