A neat line with good position and exciting cruxes.  This route basically follows crack systems on the rib of rock to the left of Black Dagger. 

  P1:  Scramble up the right side of a low angled featured face above the big pine tree at the base of the route, just left of a wide-ish crack.  Pass the large bush (bush on left) and aim for a flat spot behind a large block.  Couple of large stoppers work well for the belay.  100' fourth to easy fifth class. 

  P2:  Climb up right from the belay stance to the top of the block and step straight up steep face  for maybe 8 feet, then hard right around corner to gain a crack system.  Follow crack until it ends.  Up and traverse slightly right towards another crack.  After around 135 feet, start looking for a decent belay spot which may be semi hanging but will have adequate gear.  ~5.5/5.6 PG to possibly R rated. 

  P3:  Climb up short face and traverse slightly right to crack.  Finish on steep jugs through easy overhang to nice, rose colored small belay ledge.  Medium to hand sized crack here for belay anchor.  75 feet, 5.5. 

  P4:  Pretty much the crux pitch of the route.  Take care climbing up the short, steep chimney off the P3 belay stance, then follow the short lower angle crack up which disappears into a lower angle face (with scarce protection, maybe slings on horns and small cams in shallow pods.  Look around and don't pass up pro options!).  Climb up, aiming for the twin cracks above, angling to the right (which looks to be the easiest option).  Finally, some good gear options are available (medium to hand sized cams and large nut).  Pull steep, short overhang and gain the nice wide ledge, with wide crack on the left side for belay (#3 and 4 Camalot).  150 feet, 5.6+/5.7 R. 

  P5:  Follow wide crack up to a neat varnished face and corner crack.  Stay in corner crack up slick lower angle wall (easier than it looks) to belay atop the small pillar (also the end of the chimney tunnel on Black Dagger).  80 feet, 5.5. 

  P6 and 7:  follow last pitches of Black Dagger. 

  We climbed up the climbers left prow out of the stance (R rated, no pro for 20 feet) to a nice crack system for 100+ feet leading to a ledge with a tree on the left side.  Then finish up either through roof with wide looking crack on the left side, or, right to steep face to low angle face (medium to big cams in horizontals).  140 feet-ish and 5.5/5.6. 

  Scramble another couple hundred feet to the summit ridge up lower angle 4th and 3rd class terrain. 

  Note:  there are fragile features and some loose rock on this route.  Climb "light" and take care yarding on holds.

Peanut Brittle

This route ascends the chimney system just right of Sand Castle.   It's named after Dave Pegg, who died in 2014. This route would be as unattractive to him -- being primarily a sport climber -- as his beat-up legs (from kneebars) were to everyone else. 

  p1: Climb 20 feet of unprotected face (5.7 R) to a much easier crack and face. Tiptoe past some blocks to a nice, flat alcove beneath a white overhang. 5.7, 40 meters. 

  p2: Thrutch past the right side of the overhang (harder than it looks), then continue up a crack to a ledge beneath a tree and wide chimney. 5.11b, 25 meters. 

  p3: Either climb the chimney or its left arete (small gear) to start, then climb flakes until you're funneled into the crack. Squeeze up the smooth, varnished slot (optional belay on top) and continue up easier rock, veering left, to finish on a flat ledge at the top. 5.8, 55 meters.

Pegg Leg

Very nice route for the begining trad leader.   No anchors on the route.   P1 - 5.2   P2 - 5.6   P3 - 5.6   P4 - 5.5   P5 - 4th class   Continue to the summit and then walk off. 

Birthday Cake

The broad reddish face to the right of Black Dagger is split by an obvious crack.  Climb up and right to the right side of a prominent overhang.  The second pitch starts by the far right edge of the roof at a crack.  Climb up until an easy traverse left leads to the main crack system.  Follow this for a few pitches to slabs at the top of the wall.  The upper overhangs pose no serious difficulties.  Descend by walking south (left) and scrambing down through the Gunsight Notch. 

  Routefinding note: on the second pitch there is a bolt some distance above the roof.  It is probably easier to skip this bolt and make the leftward traverse a bit lower on good face holds.

Cat Scratch Fever

The is an excellent route that should not be missed- some of the best 5.10 climbing in red rocks. P3,4 offer some incredible stemming, laybacking, and jamming on perfect varnished rock. P2 has great climbing as well- varied.  

  P1: Start below the right side of the Hourglass on a left-trending low-angled crack. End on a ledge at the base of a right-facing corner with a two bolt anchor. 5.6, 150 ft. The length of this pitch will vary depending on how high you are willing to climb unroped. 

  P2: Step left into the right-facing crack that widens quickly to a chimney. After the chimney ends, make face moves up to the right-leaning, right-facing crack above. This pitch ends at another pretty good ledge with a two bolt anchor. This pitch protects well without large gear. 5.9, 120 ft. 

  P3: Stunning. Leave the belay with a right facing dihedral fist crack on your left and a perfect finger crack on the right wall. Ascend the corner using both these features until the crack on the right tapers out. Continue up the thin right-facing corner to a ledge with two bolts. This is incredible climbing in a mostly tips corner with occasional face holds. This pitch has many bolts of various ages and variety. Small wires and tcu's are necessary to supplement the bolts. 5.10b, 110 ft.  

  4. The excellence continues. Keep climbing up the right-facing corner and wonder why there aren't more routes like this. End on a ledge with a two-bolt anchor. 5.10b, 80 ft.  

  5. Resist the temptation to rap. Climb up a splitter crack of varying sizes on black rock. Overcome the roof, then trend right and up a polished groove to a two-bolt anchor. 80 ft, 5.8R?.  

  Notes: P3,4 combine easily with a 70, and it would appear the same with a 60m as well. If you do this with a standard rack, be ready to skip bolts and make things a bit sporty. P5 is apparently runout, but didn't seem to protect all that poorly. Above P5 is loose, sandy, difficult to protect and not so great. Enjoy.  

  Descent: The best option is to rap from the top of P5. The P5 anchors are 1/4" equalized with cord. Then rap from the top of P4 to the top of P2. Continue the route as described above. 2 60 m cords are required to rap. If not for the P3 anchors, it would be easy to rap with a single 70m from the top of P5 (with a small amount of easy downclimb on P1). P3 anchors are not rap equipped. Of course, the other option is the Gunsight Notch. This involves some unpleasant 5th class climbing past the P5 anchors. We did this and won't do it again.

The Nightcrawler

There is no fixed gear, there are no fixed belays and the rock requires care. This is adventure in the best spirit of a Scary Larry style route; so I don't break out pitches. Have an adventure and buy Jerry Handren's guide. Have fun!---Head up and right following the easiest terrain and swing right into the white groove. Up this through some crunchy rocky with care until the groove narrows just as you hit the pink band. I moved right then back left traversing hard left to resume easier and a bit more solid crack climbing (You probably traverse about 40' left of the lower white groove to reach the crack.). Up the crack a few pitches until it widens in the last steep bit before it eases off to a ramp / groove. Gain the chimney above and follow it to the top. I escaped left ~20' shy of the top just before a bush guarding the upper crack.

Me, Myself and I

Hueco Thanks climbs the left of two prominent crack/chimney systems in the Sand Castle face. It's a gentle trad romp to the summit of the sand castle subsidiary face, with an easy single-rap descent down Ten Minute Shift. 

  p1) start on the far left side of the Armatron slab. 3rd class a few yards left to a stance in a dish and belay there. climb left and up through intricate routefinding to the chimney. belay at a good stance at the bush. ~170', ~5.7 

  Note: you can do a more aesthetic, and more direct, first pitch by starting up the first pitch of Sand Castle and stepping left to the bush/chimney belay, but it is distinctly harder. 

  p2) chimney up, past the overhang (route crux), and continue up the crack to belay beneath an alcove. ~120', ~5.7 

  p3) stem up the steep alcove and follow the crack up a juggy hueco'd pitch to the top. belay easiest with thin-hand size cams. ~160', ~5.7 

Hueco Thanks

Three Choclateers is a trad line with a rugged spicy start, followed by a decidedly enjoyable and protected natural line for another 375'. The natural line peters out after those three pitches which gains the broken terrain in the middle of the wall. At this point you can continue up the original ascent line (adds a couple hundred feet of climbing to the summit, with a 5.10 move or two), or descend the easy fixed raps of Ten Minute Shift, or invent your own way to gain the summit.

 p1) pull one stiff move to a left-leaning ramp and head up it past small gear. beneath a featured face section, load the crack at your feet with tiny nuts, ballnuts, and a #.75, and climb up on dishes past a manky #2 camalot to another weakness which leads up and left to the main chimney. continue up awkward but very fun featured chimney with pro to a ledge above a bush/wide crack. ~180'. ~9+ PG13 

  p2) continue up the crack past great rock and fun varied climbing. at ~150', hit a blocky ledge, and continue to a stance at 180'. ~180'. ~9+ 

  p3) climb up the remnants of the crack system to the huge bushy break in the brownstone wall clearly visible from the ground. easy 5th class. 

  from here, you can walk over to the rappel that takes you down the sport line on the left side of the sand castle face, or to continue on the original line, move to the base of the upper wall where a huge rock creates a 40' gully with a varnished ramp in it leading up and left. scramble up this ramp and belay at the top. 

  p4) climb up, then step right to the tree on the face, and then move around it to the crack diagonalling up and right through a steep section. step right until almost on the arete, and then go straight up to a belay at a bush on a flat ledge. be careful with rope drag. ~120'. ~5.10-? 

  p5) continue up the crack system straight up to gain the brownstone ridge. ~170'. ~5.6 

Three Choclateers

Arms Reduction is a refreshing variation to the overbolted lower pitches of Armatron.  It climbs up surprisingly fun moves on good rock that protects reasonably too.  Perhaps I am a little biased but I feel it is better climbing in better style than Armatron's lower pitches.   

  Pitch 1, 195ft, 5.9 -Begin by face climbing up 15ft to a moon shaped arching crack.  Move up the crack.  As the crack starts to arch left move rightward out of the crack onto the face.  Above the moon-shaped feature are two left leaning parallel cracks.  Continue up and right to the rightmost of the parallel cracks.  Continue up this crack until you reach a small sloping ledge for a belay. 

  Pitch 2, 160ft, 5.9  Move straight up the crack into the chimney on nice huecos.  When you reach a bush move out left onto the chocolate face.  Move straight up the featured face until you reach a small ledge with the Armatron anchors to your left. 

  Pitch 3 Rappel or continue up the boltless upper pitch of Armatron for another pitch of good climbing.  

Arms Reduction

An awesome and exciting climb, with beautiful views of Juniper Canyon, especially Rainbow Wall!  

  Climbs the first two pitches of a climb called The Nightcrawler    (Jorge and Joanne Urioste route, FA, also in 1978).Pitches 3-5 are the climb Hourglass Diversion. 

  Pitch 1:   Climb up the low angle, broken up cracks on white rock. Protection scant on the initial moves, but climbing easy. Veer slightly left to catch a steeper crack. Follow the crack for a ways, then traverse about 8 feet left, to bolted anchor. (below the obvious varnished wide crack and chimney)165ft.   5.6 

  Pitch 2:   Climb and wiggle up the stellar chimney (you will find intermittent protection opportunities in the deep corner of the chimney). Climb up to a right facing corner to bolted anchor. 140ft.    5.9 

  Pitch 3:   Traverse right on a low angle ramp to the base of a thin, steep crack. No fixed anchor. 80 Ft.   5.4 

  Pitch 4:   Climb up the thin crack. Protects well. Watch out for hollow flakes. No fixed anchor. 80 Ft.   5.9 

  Pitch 5 and Pitch 6.   Climb the continuing crack system on varied climbing to the top. No fixed anchor. 270 feet. 5.8

 From top of the route, hike and 3rd class up a bit, then head left to eventually end up at the Gunsight Notch descent.

Hourglass Diversion

Ten Minute Shift is a good line up a seemingly improbable line. The first two pitches are great and sustained at their respective grades. There is some loose rock along the way lower on the route. Be careful of what you're pulling down (or out) on. The rock at the 2nd pitch roof is questionable. All bolts on the route are bomber but you might want to bring extra cord or webbing to leave behind on the anchors. The current state of the current webbing is pretty bleak.

 Pitch 1: 5.10b, 80 ft. Begin on a few large blocks at the base of the route. Make some 5.8 moves up to the first bolt placing a piece of pro if you will. From here follow the bolts (7) to an anchor on a ledge. Very good sequences, movement and holds. Sustained and fun at the grade. Bolted anchor.

 Pitch 2: 5.11++, 80 ft. Looking up at this pitch it looks improbable but the sequences reveal themselves quite nicely. From the belay ledge, move left and follow good rails back right. Follow the bolts (10) up to the roof. Traverse to the left side of the roof. Pull the roof using small holds and glassy feet. This whole flake that you're pulling on is hollow. Beware. A small piece of gear can be placed after clipping the last bolt before the anchor. Bolted anchor.

 Pitch 3: 5.10a, 50 ft. Follow the flare straight up off the belay. Place a cam high and work right around the corner and then back left under the roof. Wild climbing. Trend left around a roof to another bolted anchor on a big ledge.

 Pitch 4: 5.9, 70 ft. Move up the varnished corner to another bolted anchor. Take care placing your gear as the rock on the right wall is suspect and the crack is somewhat flaring.

 Pitch 5: 5.8, 70 ft. Follow the corner system to a large ledge with another bolted/tree belay.This is also the ledge where Hueco Thanks ends.

 Descent: Rappel the route with one 60m rope. Five rappels total.

Ten Minute Shift

This is a fantastic direct start to high anxiety adding a long, quality pitch of 5.10 crack climbing that protects well. It begins directly underneath the h. anxiety dihedral on chocolate rock right next to the start of night crawler. look for a finger crack start behind a bush and follow the swerving crack all the way to the ledge beneath the first bolt on h. anxiety at 190 feet. 

  set up belay as for nightcrawler below a slanting r. facing corner (nightcrawler's first pitch) and traverse right 10-15 ft. behind a bush to gain the crack. I admit that i used the bush for first left foot hold as i established myself in the crack off finger locks and good right feet. 

  the crack is strenuous and slightly steep on finger jams for 20'(10.a, purple camalots), then becomes very fun, imaginative and at times improbable 5.9 climbing until the corner ends(maybe 100'), casual 5.8 or easier crack climbing to the belay (final 70-90'). 

  i've eyeballed this sexy swerving crack several times and Jasmine and I went to do High Anxiety and I was bored by the single pitch of real climbing so we added this pitch today thinking it would be 5.7 or 5.8 and what a gem! rock quality was stellar on chocolaty jams with great gear the whole way. Every time it seems impossible a great slot for a finger and gear appear! I highly recommend this start for anyone on H. Anxiety. 

  double rack to 3 inches, stoppers, triple purple camalot. 

  rap from the new bolt with two ropes or finish high anxiety.

J + J Swerve

This route ascends the obvious dihedral about 150' to the right of Nightcrawler. The climbing is fun and varied, but the last two pitches are best avoided due to the deteriorating quality of the rock.

High Anxiety

Senior Dimensions is a nice pitch of face climbing on excellent rock high on the Brownstone Wall that is, unfortunately, guarded by three pitches of much lower quality, and somewhat dangerous, rock. Jerry Handren suggests in his guidebook approaching these final pitches by way of Pro Choice, and I agree. The cool thing about this zone is you can climb these approach pitches to reach a large, comfortable "Party Ledge" high on the wall, and from here you can have a fantastic cragging day climbing really high quality pitches off the ledge. These include (from left to right): Pro Choice, Pro Life, Immaculate Conception, Corruption of the Jesuit, and Senior Dimensions. Lots of grades to choose from and if you tick them all this would be one of the better outings in Red Rocks, but I digress...

 Begin tucked up in a narrow gully at the very right edge of the lower half of the Brownstone Wall, a few hundred feet up and right from Nightcrawler.

 P1 (80', 5.8 R): Climb up the lowest toe of the wall up a blunt white arete to a bolt (visible from the ground) and on to a bolted anchor on a big ledge with a large scrub oak.

 P2 (80', 5.10c): From the back of the ledge, follow a leaning, right-facing corner up stacked blocks. Move out of the corner to the left past a bolt (crux), a second bolt, then up and back right to a bolted anchor.

 P3 (100', 5.8 R): Climb up above the anchor (poor gear) to a few good gear placements in horizontals and then through run out terrain and four bolts to a bolted anchor on the Party Ledge. This is the same ledge from which the final pitch of Pro Choice and Pro Life begin.

 P4 (40', 5.8): A short pitch moves up a left-facing corner then immediately steps right and heads up easy ground to a stance at a bolted anchor. Consider bringing a pair of quicklinks and rings to improve this anchor.

 P5 (130', 5.10b): Traverse right 20' to a bolt and then quest up the varnished face passing several bolts and gear placements to a bolted anchor at the top of the wall.

Senior Dimensions

Corruption of the Jesuit is a fun pitch of thin, off-balance climbing on nice rock. I don't think it's quite as good as its neighbor, Immaculate Conception, but it is definitely worth doing if you're in the area.Approach via either the first three pitches of Pro Choice (recommended) or Senior Dimensions (not recommended) and set up your base camp on the Party Ledge. Continue up the 4th pitch of Senior Dimensions (the short left-facing corner) to a bolted anchor at a small stance. Climb up a crack above the belay. Thin climbing past two bolts leads up and slightly left to gain a leaning, right facing flake. The gear in this flake is a bit tricky and placing it feels a bit touch and go, but it is confidence inspiring when you get it - just be patient and hold on! The climbing through this entire section will keep you on your toes until you finally reach huge holds where the difficulties abruptly relent. Continue up easier face climbing (passing a few portable holds near the top) that ultimately lands you at a bolted anchor shared with Pro Life on a ledge out left.Descending back to the belay from here is no problem, but if you want to return all the way to the Party Ledge make sure you have either an 80m rope or two ropes.

Corruption of the Jesuit

This route on Brownstone Wall features a variety of features and runs the gamut of rock quality from sugary, rotten sections to unbelievably awesome, bullet-hard varnish. 

  Pitch 1: Climb up face holds to access a small crack. Belay where the crack widens and is surrounded by large huecos. Belay takes #.75-#2 Camalots. 120 feet, 5.6 

  Pitch 2: Continue up the crack into red rock. When bushes block the crack, climb around to the left or right on face holds. Climb another 20ft above a brush filled ledge to another clean ledge with a great stance. Belay takes finger size cams.  120 feet, 5.7 

  Pitch 3: Continue up the finger crack which quickly widens to hands, passing to the right of a large knob. Belay at another ledge with a black arête stretching above. There is now a bolted anchor here.  150 feet, 5.7 

  Pitch 4: Traverse horizontally left on thin cracks to access a large chimney. Move up the chimney protecting in good horizontal cracks. Above, traverse right onto the face just before bushes choke the chimney. Continue up a steepening slab. Move up on the left side of the arête and to the right side of the chimney protecting with small nuts. Belay at an obvious ledge above the arête. 165 feet, 5.9+ 

Variation Pitch 4: Climb straight up from the belay and climb the exposed arete on stellar brown varnish. Seven bolts with some gear to a bolted belay at Humerus Ledge. Exhilarating and classic. 150 feet, A little sandbagged at 5.8 

  Pitch 5: Walk left on 3rd class ledges to a short black wall with a small crack splitting the black face. Climb this crack to a large ledge. Climb one of many options up another black face above for 35ft to another large ledge. 125 feet, 5.10a 

Variation Pitch 5: From Humerus Ledge, climb the right side of the final block past 2 bolts. 125 feet, 5.6

Requiem for a Tadpole

This is a really fun outing featuring intricate face climbing, thin cracks and challenging gear placements.  There is still some fragile rock on this climb, helmets are recommended.

 We scrambled up the initial ramp of Nightcrawler to a ledge about 30 or 40 feet off the ground where we dropped our packs and set up to start climbing.

 P1:  Leave the ledge and continue up the left leaning ramp that marks the beginning of Nightcrawler.  Climb up the ramp for about 40 or 50 feet until you see a bolt about 8-10 feet out to the right.  Face climbing past another bolt leads to a thin crack system with tricky gear.  Another bolt appears with some face climbing eventually leading to an anchor at a foot rail.  (160ft)

 P2:   Climb up the beautifully varnished face to a bolt.  It is a bit committing to get to this first bolt, and is a couple of body lengths off the belay on some slightly fragile holds.  From here the next bolt is even more committing to get to, but now you are on some of the best varnished rock on the route.  Thin face climbing eventually leads to a thin crack with creative gear placements. This crack peters out at a ledge where the climb steps left a few feet.  Leave the ledge and climb up the unprotected face to an anchor that is hidden away in the back of a corner.  I had to get a party on Nightcrawler to held me figure out where I was heading because this anchor is difficult to see.  (160ft)

 P3:  The outrageously beautiful corner! While this pitch is short compared to the climbing that precedes it, It makes up for it in quality.  Jam, layback and stem your way up the 60ft to an anchor that hides out on the face to the right of the corner.  This anchor can be seen from the belay below.  (80ft)

 From the top of pitch 3 the climb can be linked into Hourglass Diversion for that route's final 2 pitches.  If choosing this option refer to H.D.'s descent information.  Otherwise rappel from here, one rope will get you down the 3rd pitch and then double rope rappel to the ground.  The guidebook mentions a 70m would work for rappelling, but I am not convinced of that.  These pitches seemed much longer than suggested there.

Kentucky's Finest

Armatron is excellent. Pitch three will become a red rocks super-classic when the word gets out. The others are merely fun climbing on good rock.

 P1: Mosey up and left past 5 bolts before traversing left on plates to a belay station in the scoop visible from the ground (below a crack). ~95', 5.8ish.

 P2: Climb the finger crack up and step right to the second crack when convenient (25 or 30'). Go up this crack until the angle slacks off into a sandy slab to the bottom of a large left-facing corner. Do not go up the corner. Step out onto the featured face on the right, where you'll find a bolt after a couple yards. Keep heading up to another station in an unvarnished patch at the base of the beautiful chocolate pitch. ~165', 5.9.

 P3: The money pitch. Step right, then head straight up on varnished plates forever. Load up the cracks with nuts and enjoy a rope length of perfect rock. ~160', sustained 5.6.

 P4: Trend left off the belay, then follow the varnish up until stepping right on a ledge to another station. ~95', 5.6.

 P5: Climb the arete above the ledge, passing three bolts along the way. You'll come to to a very large ledge, the Humorous Ledge. ~80', 5.7

 P6: Mantle the large block by going directly up the face for a fun V1-ish boulder problem or just scramble up the side. Continue up the arete passing another two bolts to an anchor. ~100', 5.6

 From here, scramble west towards a gully marked with some cairns. Be careful as it is somewhat exposed and there are few places where you definitely do not want to fall. Scramble up the gully and to the top of Juniper Peak.

 Descent: There is a very quick walk-off from Juniper Peak. First, ensure you are standing on the summit proper of Juniper Peak (marked with cairns and an ammo can cache). Face Vegas and then walk to your left. There will be a trail marked with cairns. Follow the trail back down to the base. Do not try descending before reaching the true summit as there is a very well marked trail descending S/SW into Pine Creek that will not take you to the base of Armatron.

 The route name comes from a robotic toy popular in the 80's (here's a picture of it from Honeybee's blog.). They were a lot of fun. So is this climb.

Armatron

Sand Castle is a seriously cool trad route that climbs a natural line up the middle of the Sand Castle face. The Sand Castle formation is the big pyramidal face capped with varnish-plated pink rock at the top, left of the Armatron area. The route climbs a naturally protected line between the two obvious crack/chimney systems. 

  p1) Start at the base of the wall beneath the Sand Castle. Pull up a varnished finger crack that rises out of the bushes below and left of the big Armatron slab. Climb the finger crack through a spot of hard climbing (protects well, could be the crux) up to the slab above. From here you have two options. The FA went left and up the left facing corner above, and pulled over right onto the varnished slab/rib beneath the roof (.10-, PG13 above a ledge). Alternatively, you can step right of the rib and follow moderate climbing up to beneath the roof. (Or you can avoid all the initial difficult bits by coming in from the Armatron slab out right). 

  At the top of the rib, pull the committing roof (step up to place decent gear) and above- traverse left immediately on good varnish with a couple thin pieces to the base of a shallow left facing corner in the middle of the face. Belay here for a ~190' pitch  on small cams and nuts. ~5.10. This pitch could be broken into two ~95' pitches for a friendlier outing and a belay nearer the roof. 

  p2) a really long money pitch that climbs three distinct sections of fun rock. climb the dihedral straight up, pull through some super juggy huecos above, and then step past a bulge onto the beautiful varnished plates above. at the top of the plates, step onto the top of a platform with a bush and yuccas and belay off tiny gear and a dubious thread, or the bush, or both. ~9+, ~215' (~15-20 ft simulclimbing with a 60m. you could also break this pitch up). 

  both pitches are really good. a solid step or two up from Armatron, but worth it.

Sand Castle

This route is on the far left side of the Brownstone Wall and the approach takes about 2 hours.  The route is in the sun most of the day so can be quite warm, although the 3rd and 4th pitch are in a recessed chimney and are shady except in the early morning. 

  We had some difficulty locating the start of this route.  If you head up slabs which lead to the center of the Brownstone Wall, you will have to traverse left quite a ways to get to the route, even going down a bit.  You are nearly back to the creek bed when you reach the base.  The white overhang in Swain's topo on pitch 1 was not obvious to us.  The best way to find the route is to locate the the overhang on the second pitch and the crack system above it. 

  P1: Climb a crack us through some soft rock to a block that is below a white roof (5.6, 120').  P2: Traverse left, then up to a crack at the far left side of the roof.  Sock in some good gear (on long slings), then head up and back right on varnished plates to the crack which forms the right side of the roof (now below you).  Continue up this crack to a belay ledge (5.7+, 140').  Swain calls this pitch PG but the runouts did did not seem bad to me.  There is a runout above the roof but it is not as bad as that on the next pitch. 

  P3: Here is where you look up and say "Oh yeah, Swain did say to bring 'large gear' for this pitch ...".  Above you is a fantastic black corner, but the back necks down into a fairly fat crack.  I don't exactly recall the width of the crack, I just recall we didn't have anything big enough to fit in it (I'd guess it's 5-6 inches).  You need a #5 Camalot or #3 Big Bro, and the crack might be too flared to fit the Big Bro (I don't think a #4 Camalot fits either).  Stem and face climb up the corner, with or without pro, until you reach the base of a chimney (5.7, 130').  If you don't have any 5-6 inch gear, you will have to run it out at least 20', this is the S section.  If you take big gear you may be able to walk it up and remove the S rating, please add comments below on this. 

  P4: Wander up into the darkness of a deep slot, exit left through a wild hole onto a huge ledge which faces south and (if it is late enough) into full sunshine (5.2, 100').  Two more pitches go more or less straight up from here, on softer rock.  Great views of the Rainbow Wall to your south. 

  Descent: Head south into the Gunsight Gully and scramble back down to the start of the route.  Pretty quick and easy descent.

Black Dagger

Mayday Malefactor is a mediocre route on North Brownstone Wall.  The route starts to the left of Armatron/Sweet Thin. Higher up it crosses Sweet Thin and takes a line to its right.  The crimpy crux is on solid varnish and is well-protected by a bolt and gear.  This is a good winter route, with sun until the late afternoon. 

  Start to the left of Armatron in an indentation right of a water streak. 

P1 5.7 (160')

  Pass plates and discontinuous cracks aiming for for the right side of a large white roof.  Following a hand crack, pull the bulge to reach a belay stance. 

P2 5.9 (175')

  Continue up the crack, stepping right to reach 2 bolts. Continue up the varnished face to reach three more bolts and the anchor.  Note: It's difficult to see the third bolt from the second and it's a bit runout prowise between the second and third bolts.  The bolted belay ledge is shared with Sweet Thin and you should see the bolt lines for P3. 

P2 5.10c (140'), original

  Diagonal up and right past three bolts to a right-facing corner.  Pass a small bush and continue past one more bolt to reach the crux.  

P2 5.10c (140'), variation

  Head straight up past 3 bolts. Pass a bush to reach a left-facing corner with another bush. Follow an expanding crack, traversing right back to the shared anchor. 

P3 5.7 (100')

  Climb the easy, runout face heading left to reach Humerus Ledge. 

P3 5.9+ (130')

  Move the belay to the right side of the large block. Follow the thin crack until it joins up with the runout face of Requiem for a Tadpole and the top.

Mayday  Malefactor

Pro Life is a great pitch of thin face climbing on some of the most bullet-proof varnish Red Rocks has to offer. Well protected and excellent. Done on it's own, probably 2 stars (as is Pro Choice), but when combined with that route the outing is a 3 star day. Pro Life is definitely the better of the two lines.

 P1-3: Begin with the first 2-3 pitches (depending on how you pitch it out) of Pro Choice (see that route's description).

 P4 (150', 5.12b): Start up Pro Choice's final pitch and climb through its crux (5.11a), but where that route moves left into the easy corner, instead step right clipping a bolt to reach a stance at the base of the immaculate, blunt arete. Climb up this through two distinct, thin cruxes protected by three more bolts, ultimately continuing up, or just left of, an easier crack to a bolted anchor on a big ledge.

 Pictured on the guidebook cover.

Pro Life

Pro Choice is a great line which starts on the right side of the left half of Brown Stone Wall. The crux is a short section on the 4th pitch protected by a bolt.The three approach pitches run up cool plated rock.The first pitch is short and easy, and climbs the first pitch of High Anxiety, stopping at a nice ledge before the webbing rainbow that is the first belay of High A.The second pitch goes up to a small overhang (2 bolts) then heads up the face above on cool dark plated rock, first head a little right, then back left up a steep section with a cool little finger crack in it, to a bolted belay on a small ledge. A little bit of loose rock on this and the next pitch but will clean up nicely with a little more traffic. (5.10)Third Pitch: Head more or less straight up, the rock continues to improve the higher you get, near the top you could wish for any better. Keep going till you come to a awesome ledge with anchors . (5.9)Forth Pitch: The business, make some moves up and left (good yellow alien placement) into a swoop/crescent, there is a single bolt here. The rock here is as good as it gets in the Red Rock, to the left is quite possibly the slickest sandstone i have ever seen, it is absolutely beautiful. I won't give away the beta here, there are several ways to get on through, none are easy, and finesse rather than power will be your best ally. Once past the bolt, move into a really cool left facing corner with a great crack in the back (5.8) to the anchors. (5.11)

Pro Choice

OVERVIEW If Armatron gets two stars in Handren's guide Sweet Thin deserves three. The route shares the first two pitches of Armatron (including the uneventful crux) before whisking you off to a unique balancey fifth pitch followed by a flaring chimney/offwidth one. The FA is unlisted in Handren's book. The route is south-facing; however, note that it goes into the shade in the afternoon in the winter.

ROUTE

P1 (5.8, 100') Climb the first pitch of Armatron, which takes up and left past 6 bolts over a brief section of soft white sandstone and onto the dark varnished plates from which Brownstone Wall gets its name. Fixed anchor.

P2 (5.9, 125') Climb the second pitch of Armatron, starting off with an excellent 30' thin crack on solid varnish. As the angle steepens go right to a huge horn and pull the bolt-protected crux by mantling onto the horn. Traverse right to another thin crack, aiming for the base of a left-facing corner with a fixed belay.

P3 (5.6, 80') Head up an easy corner to chimney. Pull a roof on big jugs and step left to a ledge with a fixed anchor. Pitches 3 and 4 can be linked with significant rope drag per Dow, an option which I avoided.

P4 (5.7, 95') Traverse left to a fixed belay below a tree and the bolted flake for which the climb was named.

P5 (5.9, 110') Make your way onto the thin, balancey flake. The flake is flexy and gear placements are not very useful for most of the way. Fortunately, the flake is well protected with bolts. At the top of the flake move right and mantle onto a small ledge, then make a horizontal traverse to a bush. From there a fine hand crack leads to the anchor.

P6 (5.9, 90') Climb the flaring chimney (or the face to its left) to offwidth. A double #3 would be nice to have here. At the top traverse right to a fixed anchor on a prominent ledge.

P7 (5.8, 130') Move the belay left at the base of a short offwidth. Grunt up the offwidth then traverse left to a ledge. Head up a short but slightly overhung finger crack, which eases up after a few moves. Continue up on softer white sandstone to the top of the subsidiary summit.

 To reach the summit of Juniper Peak choose one of the easy ramp systems.

Sweet Thin

Time's Up is the sister route to Nightcrawler, taking on the left side of the Hourglass feature. Start the route by scrambling up easy, low-angled rock as high as comfortable before roping up.It seems that the red book left out a pitch in the description, so I'll just describe the route as the anchors are setup. See the notes below regarding linkups, etc.P1: Start on a face and crack that leads up to the left side of the Hourglass. Parts of this pitch are in a shallow left-facing corner; others are on a looser face with cracks. The pitch ends at a 2-bolt anchor. 100 ft, 5.9.P2: Continue up the cracks and corner with the corner becoming steeper. The rock quality is questionable in spots, but overall a good pitch. Finish up by moving a bit right and mantling onto a good ledge with two bolts. 90 ft, 5.10a.P3: Step right to the chimney/wide crack that faces left. The bolt frequency really starts to pick up here. Follow the crack from chimney to fists, where it suddenly tapers to tips (purple tcu). Utilize face holds to stem up the corner, eventually stepping right to a stance on the arete with a few bolts. 50 ft, 5.10+.P4: The business. Step back left into a chimney. Wiggle a short distance to its end and move into a layback to overcome a chockstone. Continue up the wide crack as it leans and widens to a bomb bay chimney. Move out left with the chimney to a roof with a perfect dihedral above it. Exiting the roof may remind you of southeast roof climbing, but without the spiders and bugs. The dihedral above the roof is the crux and is desperately thin in places. Thankfully, between all the old bolts and a few spots that widen up, pro is good. You'll find a 2-bolt anchor 25 ft over the roof in a cramped corner with a small roof overhead. This is a horrible belay- see suggestions below for how to avoid it. 110 ft, 5.11+.P5: As good as the previous 2 pitches were, this one is at the other end of the spectrum. Stem up out of the horrible hanging belay, praying a hold doesn't break and you land on your belayer. Pass several bolts and disgusting rotten rock, eventually reaching better rock. An offwidth roof formed by a left-facing flake should be looming over you at this point. Climb up to the roof, then move right a few steps, following the old bolts out onto an easy face. Follow this to the top of the pillar and a great ledge. Alternatively, you could always go left out the roof and follow the flake/dihedral to the ledge. Either way, this pitch is anything but spectacular and is a major disappointment after the 2 prior pitches. 160 ft, 5.10-.P6: Climb P5 of Nightcrawler- splitter crack to a roof, then up right over a roof to an anchor. 80 ft, 5.8R.Notes: P1,2 are easy linkups if you start the route from a high ledge. A 60m cord reaches just barely. One of the lower pitches seems to be left-out in the red book. Hopefully, you won't be confused by the discrepancy between this description and the guide. There are many, many bolts on the crux pitches. Expect to need to clip some unless you're a stud on the rp action. To avoid the horrible belay stance on top of P4, climb past the 2 bolt anchor. Stop about 25 ft into pitch 5 at a stance on black rock with a bolt a few feet above. Save a piece or two in the 1/2"-1" range to back up the bolt. This still isn't a great spot, but its works better than the standard belay. P3,4 are excellent pitches and if it wasn't for the pitches above, this route would be 4 stars.

Time's Up

Immaculate Conception is a really awesome trad pitch that would be a total classic were it not for some loose holds high on the pitch. From below, this thing is intimidating, but as you climb, the secrets reveal themselves and it all comes together. So good!

 Approach via either the first three pitches of Pro Choice (recommended) or Senior Dimensions (not recommended) and set up your base camp on the Party Ledge. Climb the first bit of P4 of Senior Dimensions (the short left-facing corner), but stay in the corner at first and then continue up a steep, left-leaning crack. This will bring you to jugs below the blunt upper arete. Thin moves up the arete give way to easier face climbing (and a few portable holds near the top). Ultimately, you’ll reach a bolted anchor shared with Pro Life on a ledge out left.

 Descend with an 80m rope (watch the ends) or two ropes.

 Of the five pitches that begin from high on this section of the wall (Pro Choice, Pro Life, Immaculate Conception, Corruption of the Jesuit, and Senior Dimensions) this is my favorite and arguably the best.

Immaculate Conception

This east-facing brown wall sits at the upper end of Juniper Canyon.  It's a bit of a grunt to hike in to but contains some excellent routes.  A scrambling descent from the top is the V-shaped gully on the left (south) side of the wall, called the Gunsight.  This gully separates the Brownstone Wall from the Rainbow Wall.

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Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Brownstone Wall