Good warm-up route before attempting Gunfight at Hueco Corral. Slightly bigger pockets, less sustained and not quite as steep as WHW's contending test-piece (versus The Blind Leading the Naked, which is perhaps more difficult down low, but not as tough overall)?

Mexican Tornado

Mustang Sally

The Blind Leading the Naked

Wailing Banshee

High Over Texas

Gunfight at Hueco Corral

Misfire

Ricochet

The Bronc

Even Cowgirls Get the Blues

Put Away Wet

Ridin’ High

Lickspittleish

Snakevenom Slug

Lassoing Leepers

Bronco Billy

Good arching wide crack to the right of Gunfight at Hueco Corral.

Route starts with committing moves to the first hanger over another pit of despair. Thin edges and slightly overhanging until reaching the mini crack after second clip. The right-facing dihedral crack considerably widens with ascent. After smearing lichen slab, lie left on large solid flake's right side, stepping right below small bush to anchors above funky Wailing Banshee groove.

Smear dihedral and face, traversing right above tree to corner. Continue up solid low-angle dihedral to jagged summit prow.

Starts overhanging with super thin, sharp crimps to the first clip. Tread lightly, several lower key holds are ready to blow. Eases up slightly below clip two, then super shallow slopey huecos galore to the third clip. Angle right above clip three through thin friction pockets to prominent horizontal crack. Good pro in crack for final shallow moves on pocketed face to large ledge.

Misfire's alternate and more challenging crack finish.

Mostly crimps through overhang to the obvious, large bonzer ledge. Finishes on pocketed, juggy slanting face split low by horizontal crack.

Hands down, the best five I’ve climbed in the Supes, awkward and sustained (sans climbing shoes), perhaps sandbagged. Much better than The Grope on Vertigo Spire’s southwest face and slightly more physical than Monster Mash. Perhaps best variation to avoid rope drag at corner is to finish with Wailing Banshee's funky groove at its final bolt.

I thought this eight was more difficult than The Tower's first pitch (Standard Route), also tougher than Miners Needle's Overeasy and Pokey Dance, but about the same as Rockabilly (sans runout). Ejects climber left at sustained middle section with no rest stances after the first small, angled ledge. Only class three after the obvious bush at second ledge.

Easiest and quickest route to the top of complex. Located right of Lassoing Leepers.

Thin, grungy book with two overhangs, finishing with good handcrack. Lower section has the worst rock of all the WHW routes. One key hold at first overhang is flexy and lots of other loose stuff. Slowly saps your energy with many different styles, just try not to keel over before the good crack finish.

Mostly solid rock, possibly top-roped already. Regardless, a good addition to the WHW’s repertoire.

At left side below the Mountain Black Cherry tree, turn corner and smear face pockets to bolt left of good seam. Continue up seam to another clip above the steepening crux face. Gain down-sloping ledge, traverse left and then up several easier steps to another ledge and big flake. Clip and traverse left again across the top of the wild flake (that is very similar, but larger than the El Grungo crux flake). After clearing creaky wafer, run it out on lower-angled pocketed lichen slabs to anchor in gapped alcove. Listed as a seven X in Phx Rock, but seems like a runout nine or perhaps a tough eight.

WHW has been reputed as the best rock in the Supes… well apparently, to most, that’s not saying much?! All joking aside, it's of surprising caliber.

The Central Arizona Bolt Replacement Program (CABRP) is an accredited 501(c)(3) organization. It was created to preserve the safety and integrity of fixed protection throughout central Arizona. Since its creation, the CABRP has replaced hundreds of worn and aged lead bolts and anchors. The fixed anchors used to create most of the sport climbs in the US are made of non-stainless steel. As such, they are subject to corrosion that weakens the anchors holding power. The non-stainless steel bolts throughout central Arizona have been exposed to environmental factors since the first day they were placed. All told, there are approximately 2,755 total routes throughout central Arizona. Working with the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA), CABRP is placing stainless steel glue-in bolts and stainless steel expansion anchors specifically designed for the rigors of our sport. CABRP requests that all climbers establishing new routes use modern, stainless steel equipment. CABRP recognizes that this makes establishing a new route more expensive, but it is also the responsible way to protect future climbers and the precious resource that is our rock walls. The Pond: (All glue-ins) Date Rape 5.7 (Anchors only ½” x 3” stainless w/rap rings) Easy Pool &amp; Dead Pool (shared Anchors only ½” x 3” stainless w/rap rings) Atlantis: (All glue-ins) South Wall Sir Charles - 5.10 Mondo Freako - 5.7 G-String - 5.8 Mickey Mouse - 5.7 Direct Start - 5.11b See you try, see you fail - 5.11b Ali Cat - 5.7 (anchors only) Neptune - 5.10 (pitch 2 anchors and 1st 3 route bolts) KGB - 5.10 Giggling Marlin - 5.9 McDowell's: (Stainless steel 1/2' x 3' bolts, stainless steel hangers) Hawk Boulder Hawk - 5.7 PG13 Energizer - 5.8 Gripple Variation - 5.10R Rosetta Stone Face Value - 5.6 Susan's Stroll - 5.3 (anchors) Brazilian Tenant Farmers - 5.5 Easy Street - 5.1 Arrowhead Arrowhead - 5.8 Hog Heaven Pissed off - 5.8 Tumbling Dice Tumbling Dice - 5.10 Gardeners Wall Hanging Gardens - 5.5 (1st and 2nd pitch anchors) The Phantom – 5.7 Electric Lady Land – 5.10 Phantom of the Opera – 5.10 Parental Guidance – 5.9 Renaissance Direct – 5.7 (1st &amp; 2nd pitches) Battling Fear – 5.10 Fearless Leader – 5.10 (1st &amp; 2nd pitches) Snattlerake Dance – 5.5 Bruisin &amp; Cruisin – 5.5 Lickety Split – 5.7 (1st &amp; 2nd pitches) For Cryin’ out loud – 5.10 LITTLE GRANITE MOUNTAIN: Mogul Wall: Chet’s Arete – 5.8 S&amp;M – 5.9 Moguls – 5.9 Made in the shade – 5.10 Sleeping Cactus: Greg’s &amp; Al’s Excellent Adventure – 5.9 Chasm View – 5.10 The Bickerson’s Dirty Habits – 5.9 Left Face – 5.10 The Loaf: Wimpy – 5.8R Young Monkeys – 5.7 Blow Fly’s last ride – 5.10 “A” Crack – 5.10 Dike Walk – 5.10 Gender Blender – 5.10 Lost Bandana Wall: Dueling Hammers – 5.6 Family Affair – 5.7 Seemingly Useless – 5.7 (anchors) Loosy Loose – 5.11 Lawless &amp; Free – 5.9 Spectrum – 5.7 (anchors) Unknown route – 5.10 Limbo – 5.6 The Cone: Three Dopes on a Rope – 5.4 Sideshow – 5.6 Kate’s Fault – 5.9 Unknown – 5.10 Pasta Slab: Half Measure – 5.4 Full Measure – 5.4 Problem Dog – 5.3 Lower Devils Canyon: Glue in’s The Totem Pole - 5.10c/d Is there an area that is need of new hardware? Copyright © 2022 Central Arizona Bolt Replacement Program - All Rights Reserved.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Wild Horse Wall