Sit start on big chalked sideways undercling type hold. Work out on the left side of the cave on a series of crimps and top out on jugs.

The High Road

Cherry Garcia

Turkey

Monkey Trench Left Variation

Turtle on a Half Shell

Monkey Wrench

Spring Board

Monkey Trench

Eat Your Breakfast

The Low Road

Spring Loaded

Smack Shabwack

Jugs

Spring Break

This lowball route climbs below the High Road, on the left side of the cave. SDS on a well chalked jug, and climb out of the cave on good holds. Top out.

Cherry Garcia starts on the east side of the Red Springs Boulder. Sit start using a good slot for both hands. Move straight up through some sloping holds. Get to the good rail over the bulge and make a committing mantle move up and over. Very good movement and very good for the grade.

Start on the Large Jug up and to the left a little of "Low Road" (the V2) . Move left and up and little into two crimps. From here reach left for an underclingy pocket and throw for the bad crimp on the arete. Hold the crimp and reach up to the sidepull crimp with your left hand and then move your right hand up to a hole in the rock. This is a mega jug that feels like a gym hold. From here move into the larger jug and got straight up the slab to top out.

Shares the start with Monkey Trench (or Highroad/Spring Loaded), then once you get to the stand start jug pinch, go left (but not too far to link into Cherry Garcia), then work up the seam with some small holds, then top out. The stand start is noted as V6 in the guidebook (Monkey Wrench Left). Sit Start should add about 1 or may be 2 v grades. However I'm not certain of the grade due to my lack of experience.I do not claim FA as I'm sure this has been done, but I have not seen this variation done anywhere on the internet nor in the guidebook. When I saw this in the guidebook and tried it, there was no chalk on the top half of the boulder. Although the sit start takes away some stars from this climb, it does add endurance component to the climb and makes the finish of the stand interesting. If you are there and did everything else (Monkey Trench, Spring Loaded, etc.), this is worth checking out.Video: https://youtu.be/11UJ_hEfTBU

Start on the large jug left of the low road, climb up and left through jugs until you are just below the arete onto the slab, then use smaller crimps to make a big move to the large jug pod. Super fun

Start on good rail to the right of Cherry Garcia and go up to the right. Really just two harder moves off small holds and the rest isn't bad.

Sit start in the right side of cave using large jug feature. Move right on decent holds coming out of the cave to a large sloper. Move up and left on slopers and jugs to top out.

The low low for monkey wrench, starting on the undercling as for high road, but head the OTHER WAY and finish monkey wrench. DON'T DAB

Two hand sit start on a good hold. Move up, then right towards side pull jugs. Hit the pinch and make your way up, and left through the crux. Top out with easy down climb. Holds are solid, just watch for any loose stuff on top.

Start as on The High Road (V7), but move right across the cave at the obvious crimp rail to a large angular hold which is the start of Spring Board (V3). Top out on the right side of the cave as opposed to the left for The High Road.

Start on monkey wrench jug move left and finish on cherry garcia

Use any number of good holds to ascend the face left of the major cave on the East side of the Red Springs Boulder

Spring Break starts on the north side of the Red Springs Boulder. Sit start using a good right hand and a positive left hand sidepull. Pull hard and move straight up to some marginal crimps. Top out!

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Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Red Spring (aka Turtle Shell) Boulder