Begin by jamming a stellar vertical hand crack. As the crack narrows slightly and steepens, larger mitts may find smearing and stemming to be more productive. Another 40 feet of suspect rock exist for adventurous 5.11 climbers.

Tony's Happy Christmas Crack

Boulder difficult moves between shallow pockets before cutting right onto significantly easier, somewhat chossy, terrain for the second two-thirds of the climb.

MlLF Money.

Start on the Toker boulder, swing out, heel hook, then mantle on to the plated face.  Move left up the face pulling on good plates to gain a ledge beneath a pocketed overhanging section.  Try and wedge a knee bar or just get a good shake and move out on to the face using sharp pockets and crimps.  Clip the last bolt and make a tough move to pull yourself onto the vertical face.

Crosley

Technical moves up to a ledge, after which it eases up into less than vertical.

Mentee

Punch through huge moves (and at least one dyno) with the aid of amazing underclings followed by a significantly relaxed upper section. Enjoy the valley view at the top. Permadrawed anchors.

Dogleg

Ban Hammer (Closed Project)

Technical face climb right of Tony's Happy Christmas Crack.

Mas Choss

This aesthetic, slightly overhanging route is not your typical RRG jug haul.  The lower half of No Redemption features back-to-back boulder problems that require finesse, techy footwork, and good thin face climbing skills.  The final 40 feet of grab and dangle climbing would probably be rated 12a on it's own.

Stick clip the first bolt, then follow good holds to a small overlap below the first crux.  A V4 sequence on shallow, slopey pockets and scoops leads to a set of better pockets.  Rest up, then attack the hardest section of the route, which clocks in at around V5.  Make a huge deadpoint or employ some terrible, slopey scoops and features to reach a pair of edges, then toss for a decent, flat ledge where you can recover.  The next V4 boulder problem is the redpoint crux.  Bust right, then up, using crisp pockets, and sharp edges until you hit better holds in a horizontal break.

Past this point, the wall steepens, and the style morphs into the classic RRG style.  A long section of flowy moves on decent pockets ends with restful holds below a bulge.  Follow jugs over the bulge to some finger buckets with bad feet just below the anchors.

This route is on the harder side of 13b.  Cool, crisp conditions are helpful.

No Redemption

Another typical Bob Marley cave route - follow mostly large holds to a rest before the roof.  Clip the roof draw and move through the roof using sharp pockets to larger holds above the lip.

This is rated 12d in the current guidebook but it feels no harder than its 12c neighbors (Blood Bath and Where's the Beef).

Reticent

Start off a pyramid shaped boulder under the huge roof and either reach out and clip the first bolt and swing onto the huge first hold or if you're shorter you dyno onto the hold.

Toker

Climb mainly large jugs for the first two-thirds of the route to a sit down rest. Enjoy the view before moving up through a weird mantle/reach move to the next bolt. Squat and grab a shake before the short-lived crux which involves pinches and crimps. Move through it to larger holds at the anchor.

Skinny Love

Swim through jugs until you reach a blank-looking section near the top of the route. Make a long move straight up and finish on less steep rock to the anchor. It's also possible to bail left or right onto an adjacent route for the finish.

Some people will say this is a squeeze job but it seems to stay independent of the neighboring routes.

Enjoy the Process

First Free Ascent, Alex Megos in 2015. Bolted by Adam Taylor.

Your Heaven, My Hell

Sustained en

duro climbing, beginning just left of Ultra-Perm, charging up the consistent pockets and finishing on Ultra-Perm's crux below the anchors.

Southern Smoke

Bolted for the Men's Ultimate Route for Petzl's Rock Trip in 2007.

Please add more details if you have them.

50 Words for Pump

Pull the roof on huge jugs then balance your way up pockets of a variety of shapes and sizes.

Where's JJ?

This steep line of pockets, slopers and crimps packs in full value for 50 feet of climbing.  Follow the bolt line and move quick to avoid the pump.  Pull the lip and you're almost there.  It's been called deceptively hard by more than one 5.12 climber...

Velvet

Harder than it looks. The holds at the bottom are just small enough to be tempted to call this route 11d. Pretty cool rest 2/3 of the way up (see picture).

Horn

Pull a small bulge on jugs and continue up the juggy face to the top.

Waiting for JJ

Overhung arete climbing. Another great line that probably wasn't published because of all the hate.

Contact High

Climb large holds to a good rest just before the lip of the cave.  Move up and right onto the headwall to smaller holds and the finish.

Eyeball Chaw

Continue past the first set of anchors into a sit down rest where a horizontal placement can be found. Once composed, find your next bomber placements in the roof and pull through the tricky crux. Finish up the climb by clipping the lower offs of the neighboring sport line. More fun than the bottom half, and some really nice and clean exposure while tackling the roof. Dont forget the alpine draws, 4 minimum.

I'd recommend lowering to the first anchor and cleaning, so you don't risk the bigger swing from the top anchor.

Tony's Happy Christmas Crack (Extension)

Thin technical face climb right of Mas Choss

Route 22

Description from the guidebook: One of the best routes east of the Mississippi. Begin on a boulder 20 feet right of the previous line. Climb the initial face, then move left to an overhanging wall. Enjoy a few bolts of confidence-building moves on big holds to prepare for the smackdown that awaits. Dive into a tough boulder problem that doesn't seem to let up until you turn the lip. The size of your fingers may be the difference between you marking this "hard" or "soft" on your scorecard.

Ultra-perm

On the far right side of the crag, you'll find a cool mini-cave. Two popular 12c's climb up the right side of the cave. Bloodbath is the left one.

While certainly pumpy, the route is not an endurance nightmare like others at the Red. The crux consists of bouldery, powerful moves through a roof. Despite being a bit sharp and raspy, Bloodbath is a fun route.

Bloodbath

Closed Project. Please respect the Red Tag until this had been updated.

This dual wielding slab climb splits after the 5th bolt, the left is called 'Old Maps', the right 'New Maps'.

Worship and Tribute (Closed Project)

If your arms are shot from all the cave climbing, come take on this novel RRG leg pumper, tucked away in one of the best, Bob Marley approved chill spots. Pull through the start, where holds actually exists, then take on the impossible face by stemming and chimneying your way to the lip. Keep your head together after clipping the last bolt, as the 5.3 run to the anchor is a definite no fall zone (the PG13 section).

Clean with caution!

Use the 1st draw to lower through, and collect it with a stick clip once you're safely back on the ground, or stay clipped into the belayer's side to keep you from swinging over too fast after retrieving the first draw.

The Ultimate Crumbsnatch

Climb the easy right-facing flake to the huge hueco. Sit down and get ready. Steep pockets, a roof traverse and a tricky boulder crux at the lip await.

Tacit

Easy pockets up overhanging wall with an obvious crux below the last bolt.

Beta-vul Pipeline

A bit controversial, this route takes a very pretty line of pockets up an orange streak about 8 feet right of a traditional route,

Moment of Truth

. People have threatened to chop this line because they think it's too close to the crack. The bottom has the hardest moves, but the second half will test your endurance.

Stick clip the first bolt, and do some long reaches and tough moves with bad feet to get into the corner. Establish a stem in the dihedral just as the holds disappear, and pull onto the ledge for a standing rest below the steep upper half. Follow incut pockets up and right to the anchors- keeping it together during the sections that have bad feet or smaller pockets.

This route is still cleaning up a bit and will probably earn another star once it cleans up.

Interestingly, there is another controversial route in Boulder that is named Archangel. Must be something about that name...

Archangel

Technical stemming with a low bolt leads to a spectacularly steep crack system with strenuous and pumpy moves most of the way. Descend via a bolt anchor at the top of the cliff, or wimp out and use the No Redemption anchor. The topout is airy and cool though.

Moment of Truth

The middle 11d in the Bob Marley cave, this line shares the start briefly with Horn but moves straight up. Climb up the steep wall to a good rest before pulling on a few decent holds to over the lip.

Flush

This well protected sport climb is one of the best kept secrets, and one of the best of its grade in all of the Red! Technical, crimpy, and some cruxy, thoughtful moves found from start to finish.

Gear Beta- Alpine draw the 3rd bolt, back-clean the 2nd bolt

Sun afternoon

Does not stay dry in rain

Ultrathon

Shares the first few bolts and all the good dynos on Dogleg, then breaks left across thin holds, using the obvious ramp for feet. It just keeps on giving with big moves and small edges and pockets all the way to the end. Excellent technical climbing following Dogleg's thuggy start. A truly classic pitch.

Demon Seed

This route starts with good holds and large moves in the severely overhanging cave. Move through sharp pockets in the roof to a jug up and right. Finish on easier terrain to the anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Bob Marley