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Peak Mountain 3

Northeast Chimney

FA Unknown
UPDATED BY pseudalpine 

Description

AKA Dangling Legs? This route seemed to have a tougher overhanging crack crux than the East Face route, so peradventure it may start collecting more bail gear then that route had?! Starts up a slab with a somewhat tricky move to get established in a nice dihedral. At the ledge pod, tread carefully before splitting the overhang, then mostly solid chimneying until some easy face climbing near the top. Save a few medium cams for your belay. It's an easy hike west to the summit from there.

Location

Between the East Face and North Face routes at the northeast corner of the butte.

Protection

Perhaps a rack and a half. A #4 and #5 were helpful. Rapping from the dead tree is silly and all of the tatapus has been removed from its base. There's a 40m rap anchor directly above the East Face route, but one must scrupulously downclimb to a good ledge to access it.


Routes in O'Neill Butte


  1. 2
    Northeast Chimney
    5.9
    Trad