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Peak Mountain 3

Southeast Face

121m
FA 1971; Doty.
UPDATED BY pseudalpine 2 months ago

Description

Published as the East Ledges route in both editions of Grand Canyon Summits Select, this mountaineer's route actually faces mainly southeast. I've never verified if this is the original solo ascent that Al climbed, but regardless, it is a fun approachies scramble to a nice moderate summit. Perhaps an updated guidebook of canyon climbing will reveal more unknowns.

Location

About halfway across the butte's Supai base is an obvious large block detached and leaning at the route's start. There's a sheltered alcove behind the block to gear up and stash stuff in the shade, as it's usually hot by the time one approaches this side of the butte. P1 climbs the face on the left side of the block past a piton, then one must traverse left to a ledge. I've always stopped to belay on this ledge at ~30m to maintain sight of the start. A few cams along the ledge will keep the rope from dragging through an Agave, dislodging loose boulders and/or possible getting stuck. Whoever seconds should be capable, as once the piton is unclipped, there is definitely decking potential if they don't make it to the ledge. For P2, move the belay left ~45 feet to the base of an easy, right-facing dihedral. Above this seam is a steeper crack section, then easier climbing to another ledge (~30m total). P3 angles right for approximately another 35m to a ring bolt and rock pinch belay/rap at a large, perched boulder. Hike up from here, then traverse left and scramble through a few more ledges to reach the broad summit.

Protection

Downclimb upper section to the top of pitch three. The first rap is ~30m to a Juniper. The second rap from this slinged tree is ~65 feet and returns one just west of the starting block. This route can be climbed safely with only one 70m rope and a few cams.


Routes in Newton Butte


  1. 2
    Southeast Face
    5.7
    Trad
3000 km
2000 mi