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Peak Mountain 3

The Schism

18m
FA unknown
UPDATED BY cautious_scarlet_lynx 

Description

Start on the some good crimps/edges on the large boulder, and top out. This line is unbroken seam that runs to the top. Technical laybacking and interesting body movement and positioning takes you to the top. The climbing startsbeasy, but becomes increasingly challenging and thoughtful as the seam thins a bit. The route builds well to a technical crux right before the anchors. Thoughtful movement, and well protected. A great climb.

The lower holds in the crack are large, and you can easily establish yourself on the climb. There are two bolts on the lower boulder if you want to protect the opening, but the best option to eliminate rope drag is to either back clean the boulder or just not clip it entirely. I would recommend clipping up and back cleaning the first 2-3 bolts in the crack to eliminate rope drag.

Location

Right side of the crag, starting with two bolts on the face of the large boulder at the base of the crack before continuing up the corner above the boulder.

Protection

11 bolts, currently all but the first are equipped with fixed draws.