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Peak Mountain 3

Pleasure Cruise

FA Topher Dabrowski, Laura Williams July 2020
UPDATED BY vietnguyen 

Description

P1 5.7 - start right of the roof on easy terrain and climb up and left towards the crack behind the roof. Ascend the crack/corner to get on top of the roof. #1-#3 Camalots protect well here. Once on top of the roof move left to the arete. Clip a pin but ignore the old 1/4 bolt museum piece. Step on the block and move above the pin, a small 0.2 cam can be used in a face slit above the pin. Follow the arete on big holds passing a couple more bolts to a large ledge with a big tree and anchors.

P2 5.7 - climb straight up from the belay passing a bolt and pin and plenty of good gear options. Make a step up a shallow groove and traverse right on a ledge to easier ground passing 2 more bolts to a big ledge. At the big ledge clip a third bolt using a long sling to reduce rope drag. Traverse hard left passing one more bolt to reach the anchors.

P3 5.8 - from the belay step right and head up clipping a bolt. Go to the back of the large ledge and climb the short crack using the block of Damocles. (You’ll pull and stand on that thing. I have reefed on it to no avail but your mileage may vary.) If you protect the crack, it is recommended to extend the sling before continuing to alleviate rope drag.

On the next rightward sloping ledge move to the far left side to find good holds ascending a slab past 3 bolts to yet another big ledge. Again consider how to manage rope drag on this pitch by extending slings.The last part of this pitch ascends either an off width crack on the left (bring bigger gear if wanting to do this) or the face to the right. The face has a crack higher up that takes a nice 0.3 size cam. It might perplex some but the short face is easy once you figure out the movement.

3 raps to the ground with a 70m

All belays bolted.

Location

Enter the woods over near the water spigot/picnic table on the north side adjacent to the Discover Pass kiosk. Follow the trail about 200 feet until you see the arching roof, the route starts to the right of the large roof.

Protection

Cams 0.2-2.0 Camalot sizes

10-12 alpine draws - important to manage rope drag

70m rope