This is the warmup route at

The Watchtower

for aspiring 5.11 climbers.

Domestic Tension

climbs up and to the right through 5 bolts to an anchor shared with

Billy Goat's Gruff

(.11a to the right).

While not difficult, the traverse can feel kind of tricky. It makes it easier if you stay low on the traverse going through the third bolt. The crux is just before the last bolt toward the end of the traverse and the transition to the small ledge just before the chains.

Domestic Tension

Great technical climbing to sweet roof. As the book says, " for the seasoned 11b climber" .... FUN!

Sun King

This great addition to the crag follows an obvious weakness on the right side of the cave - the line of water sculpted pockets. It starts off with some easy-ish pulls to get to the obvious pockets in the seam. After that, expect to be challenged with some massive deadpoints on marginal holds, long forgotten tricks, and a very unique boulder problem to cap it off leading into the last bolt of Spinoza. The rock is great, the movement spectacular, and the holds are all really cool.

This route is infamous for seeping consistently; how else do you think those cool pockets formed? When it's dry, take advantage. It's classic American Fork pulling.

I thought it was quite a bit harder than Decades. It might warrant a slash grade of 13b/c.

Mass Wasting

Start pulling on a right facing flake (don't cheat by going right—use the flake) then clip the 2nd bolt with nice holds. Next, find your way to the only pocket on the climb—3rd bolt.

You get a huge rest at bolt 4, then come two beautiful pinchers at the small overhang - clip - then find the sidepull to a sloper to a crimper, reach for a nice right hold using the undercling after that you have easy climbing to the chains.

This climb has it all. It's solid 12a and simply beautiful.

Well protected except the last part going to the chains.

Step Right Up

Climb up to the first overhang, and make a big move to the positive shallow left facing flake and try to get a stance to clip the 3rd bolt (crux).   Continuous climbing to the anchors of Spinoza. A extra bolt has been added at the top and is welcome!

To Kill A Chalkingbird

Start on the left of the arete and trend up and across to the right side of the arete on small edges. Don't be afraid to go too far to the right as this climb seems to wander a little. The moves on this route can feel awkward and burly for an .11c. While not steep, this climb can leave you guessing. No real distinct crux on this route, but climbing eases up a bit after the last bolt.

Matilda

A thoughtful route that follows a corner up to a crux roof encounter, and then a steep crack to the top.

Stem and layback past good pockets, and edges in the dihedral to a long reach to a large pod at the third bolt.  Grab a rest, then move up and right to a steep, bouldery crux over a bulge.  Once over the roof, follow generous cracks past a few more bolts until you can wedge your body in a chimney just below the anchor.

This is a good route for those looking for something with a more traditional feel.

Spinoza

This route starts slightly right of Matilda. Start up on nice flat edges to gain a right facing side pull block. Figure out how to work your feet over the small roof to gain a small seam with hidden jugs. At the 6th bolt the trickery begins. Do you go right or left? Pull the last roof to gain the anchors.

Zanzibar

I wonder how many people climb this route? It's fairly obscure and the name is perfect.

Wasted and Wounded

is how you feel when you climb it.

It's way steep with good holds and some fun reaches. The crux is the roof. Right hand up to a stacked 3 finger crimp, figure out your feet and go for the left better hold and clunk over the roof to huge jugs and a rest.

The last part is superb jug hauling. You'll get pumped real fast on this one and I recommend it to practice your roof skills.

Wasted and Wounded

Use positive but small edges and side pulls through the 2nd bolt.  From here, a sharp sidepull and small feet will get you to the first glued "jug" (crux).  A big throw gets you to the next glued jug.  More big moves to positive holds get's you to the final roof.

Decades

A crimpy, balancy, fun start leads to some sharp-toothed vertical pockets, and followed by a couple of welcome jugs.

Continue up through some slopey, insecure terrain until more positive holds are reached, followed by more slopey goodness.

Surmount a roof-like overhang while feeling just a wee bit desperate, and then finish on positive holds through the last two bolts to the chains.

Billy Goat's Gruff

Good climbing on small edges through the first three bolts. Technical crux is probably clipping the second bolt and climbing through. Holds get a little better climbing above the third bolt.

Redpoint crux is probably going past the 4th bolt.

This route overhangs slightly throughout, so it doesn't give up on you until the very end. The chains are at the base of the "Watchtower".

An extension to this route or a 2nd pitch has been kicked around as an idea.

Fire Woman

Techy around bolt 2, and cruxy through the roof.

Pist

The first couple bolts are the bouldery crux which takes you to a good rest at mid-height. A few fingerlocks and some laybacking gets you through the upper bit.  A little more run out than the other routes. A small piece of gear will reduce the spice factor.

Spawning

Direct start to Spinoza.  Hard to hang/clip the 3rd bolt.   Crux comes after clipping 3rd bolt, tough moves to reach the crack.    Good rock and crimpy.

Let's Pretend

This is a an unusual line for AF. Follow the chimney going left then right. Find a place to sit, scratch your back, bump your head, reach for holds in the chimney, notice that you're crawling thru some animals home, be a pretzel. Yeah it was fun.

Barnacle

It's a short route, so expect hard moves most of the way for the grade.   Not one of the most popular at this crag, but very much worth doing.   The moves flow nicely throughout.   Crux is between the 3rd and 4th bolt.  Look for small positive crimps until you can reach the large flat edge.   The stone above the 4th bolt is excellent...if only more of AF had rock like this small section!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Watchtower