This route which stands at about 16-20 feet tall is the hardest route on the boulder and the main route Exeter Boulder is known for. It has been sent at "height dependent V11", and possibly much harder if you're not over 6 ft tall with a + wingspan.Start with both hands on the obvious sloper sidepull marked with chalk and climb straight up the prow.

Raining Blood

Tip-Toe is a classic V2+ which starts at the sloper sidepull, proceeds left across a slab section under the prow (watch out for the big rock), and finally climbs up using the same crack used for "Check Your Pants".

Tip-Toe

A few crux moves off the ground on sidepull slopers to a slab top out. The direct slab topout seems to collect a lot of dirt / pine needles. You can move a bit left and go up a secure right angling crack to avoid the slab moves. 

Poof

Climb underneath the overhang left of Climber's Crack, then up onto the slab.

Confidence

Climb's the obvious crack on the left side of the north face of the boulder. Climb past a juggy chockstone and finish with jams or lieback onto the top.

Chockstone Crack

Climbs the crack and face to the right of "Wide Ride". Start up the finger crack on the arete and move left to good face holds and edges to the top.

Deer Proof

Begin at the crack holds on the arete (same start as Deer Proof). Head straight up the shallow dihedral above on insecure holds to the top.

Puddle of Blood

Climb the arete on the backside of the boulder from a sit start. Low crux but pretty tricky at the topout. 

The Arete

Start as for "The Arete" and then move left on bad holds into "Sloper Crimp". 

Comatose

Is it a sloper or is it a crimp? Sit start left of the arete at a miserable sloper/crimp hold. Bump up to better edges then easier climbing to the top. #18 on the map 

Sloper Crimp

Number 12 on the Exeter Boulder topo. The first few moves off the ground make up the definite crux with the climbing getting progressivly easier. This problem has good movement, mostly comfortable holds, and a good landing. One of the better problems on the boulder.

The Exetonian

Sit start the left facing sidepull/rail between Zap Cracks and Climber's Crack. Pull onto the slab above and join Climber's Crack to the top.

Eliminator

Moderately challenging slab climb. Start on the sloped shelves just left of the pine tree.

Pick Pocket

Climbs the flake and face just right of the arete on the back side of the boulder. Start up the right side of the flake of the juggy flake. Make a long reach to a good hold below the lip and then transition onto the slab above climbing a series of cool "ripples" in the rock.

Ripples

Climb up slopers on the right side of the prow, then proceed up and to the right on small edges. A hidden jug at the top will be a relief.NOTE- It has been reported that one of the starting holds broke and may have changed the route somewhat. The slightly changed holds may have prompted a name change, but the original name “Jackknife” seems most appropriate. R Hall, NHAdmin. 12/30/20

Jackknife ( aka? el espectro rojo )

Sit start below two parallel vertical cracks. Bump to the juggy horizontal crack then work your way up the two vertical crags on the slab above. 

Zap Cracks

Climb straight up the crack on the left of the prow.

Check Your Pants

Climb up the large crack in the middle of the boulder. This is the easiest way to get off of the boulder.

Climber's Crack

Climbs the right arete and lip of the east (overhanging) face of the boulder. Climb up the left side of the flake on the arete and move left along the lip on slopers to the jug of "Jackknife".

Dolph

Sit start from the small rock and use the crimps to top out at the hidden jug.

Tip Ripper

Wide crack. Layback or offwidth grovel to some good jugs at about 10 feet up. Top out on good holds.

"Wide Ride"

Start as for Climber's Crack and Confidence but at the overhang, move left into the finish of the Exetonian.

Tango

Great slab climb with a slightly challenging start, then a couple of balancing moves until you can escape up and to the left via a medium-sized crack. The right arête is off limits.

Railroad

Exeter's showcase boulder! With roadside access, beautiful landings, and over a dozen boulders from V0 to V10, this 18 foot tall block should be every visitor's first stop in Exeter!  The Exeter Boulder has long been a local climbing haunt with a history spanning back at least to the early 1970s and perhaps even as far back as the late 1940s with Bob Bate's Exeter Mountainerring Club. The boulder sits on a rocky knob out behind "The Rinks" (a large ice skating rink facility) a stone's throw from the road. Hardwood trees provide ample shade in the summer and good sun exposure in the winter. 

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Exeter Boulder