The crux is right off the ground: a finnicky and highly technical slab problem on crimps and flat edges with terribly poor feet. It took us 2 sessions to settle on beta and something like 20 attempts to send. If you don't get frustrated and give up you're rewarded with excellent powerful and tenuous compression climbing with a finger crack to finish.

Stig's Rig

Avant Gardener follows the thin corner to the right of The Lawn Rake. Pull a few big moves off the ground and eventually reach a cruxy balance sequence passing a small overlap. The crux grade may be height / finger size dependent.

Easier moves above bring you to an anchor up and left past the roof.

More stuff is being developed on the wall with the large roof above. This area still needs some work, maybe it'll be done by Spring.

Avant Gardener

Climb the short handcrack as in Flippo. Then traverse left to the right-facing, flaring chimney. Climb the chimney (5.8), then continue up the crack-flake system to the roof. Jam over the roof (5.9, though may be easier due to recent cleaning) into a corner, and continue up the corner for about 20 feet.

The route can be toproped using the chained anchor atop Robin's Ramp.

Hips and Valleys

This is an awesome layback climb up a right facing corner with finger sized gear.  The climbing is fairly sustained, but a few small feet allow for rests and oportunities to place gear.

There is a fun corner to the right that you can TR from the anchors.  That corner, PBR, checks in at around 5.10.

Plum Pudding

Corner climbing with small roof. Involves jamming and stemming.

One can toprope the bottom half from the Plum Pudding anchors.

Generally follows a right-facing corner.

Starts with a short hand crack that goes to a sloping ramp below the corner. Do several bolt-protected layback moves into the corner. When the good layback edges fade (at 3rd bolt), stem right onto the large knob and then move right to climb up the knobby face. At the top of the face, step back left over the top of the corner and trend up and left to the chained anchor on Robin's Ramp.

Flippo

Fun 5.8 flake climbing to a bolt-protected crux face move. (The face move is easily aided by stepping in a sling and reaching the horn on the roof above.) Then go over a small roof and enjoy the 5.5 crack climbing to a ledge with a two 1/2" bolt anchor.

The name has nothing to do with gardening, though like all routes at Index, a little moss-scraping and digging was needed to establish the line. You won't be needing to bring a lawn rake though to do the climb.

The Lawn Rake

Follow knobs and edges near a thin crack. The crux is near the top bolt.

Wild Boar

Clint Cummins' book (

web.stanford.edu/~clint/index/

) calls it "MW crack 5.11a".  Does not have its own anchor - can be considered an alternate start to Robin's Ramp.

Mostly 5.10, the hardest move is exiting the crack at the top.

MW crack

This route has really fun, positive knobs.  Somewhat committing getting to the first bolt - trust your feet on the knobs.

Follow the knobs up the face to a 2 bolt anchor.

Waiting for the Sun

Go up the left-facing corner (part of same flake as Dinky and Flee). The crux is down low. Goes to the Wild-Boar anchors (same as the two routes left and the two routes right).

Stems and Leaves

Start up a slabby ramp using good knobs and incuts. Enter the steep flaring chimney above (bolt out left) and then pull out into the sweet finger crack.

Jaded

Begin up Robin's Ramp and traverse along a rail to clip the first bolt. A series of 3 technical boulder problems along a seam (bolts) gets you to a "jug" and final mantle. From there, insecure but much easier climbing along the seam brings you to an open corner. Make a heady move and stem up to the anchors. Blue tile lounge is just above if you wanna go there.

Alternative (less reachy) start: Start up Plum Pudding (gear) until you can stand on top of the big flake. Traverse left using good crimps to clip the 2nd bolt.

There are currently permadraws on the crux bolts. I'll make a post if I remove them.

Seams Alright

This is an access pitch to quickly get to the Mid Wall from the K-Cliff area.

Seamstress (access route)

Follow thin crack to small roof/overlap (11b), then thin crack above, with 11c face moves to the finish.

Keith's Crack

Stick clip the first bolt and execute a memorable boulder problem to a dirty ledge (.11c/d). Climb fun cracks to a roof and obvious flare. Enter the flare with difficulty  on shallow finger locks (.11+, bolted). Rad knob and arete moves exit the flare, easier ground to the right of an incipient crack leads to a chained anchor.

Fat fingers will find the second crux quite a bit harder I'd imagine, but both harder sections are short lived and can be aided.

Swamp Thang

Climb up the outside of the large flake. The crux is midway up the flake. At the top of the flake, trend up and left to the belay.

Dinky Twinkies

Sustained climbing (bolts) leads to a difficult mantle crux. From here, follow relatively easy cracks (small-ish gear) and flakes upward to a slightly contrived bolt line going to the right. You can alternatively climb the cracks and corners above at this point.

Either way you end up at a bolted anchor up and right.

There's definitely potential for more stuff around here. The crack to the left has been climbed, and there is apparently a slabby seam project on the right.

Behind the Green Door

I'm hoping for input to the rating since the crux felt very height dependent and I suck at figuring out ratings anyways.

Start in the same hand crack as for Hips and Valleys, but instead of going up the chimney, go up to the right in the shallow corner and continue up the face via stemming and some delicate features over a small roof and to the chains for Robin's Ramp.

It is also possible to go up the chimney for Hips and Valleys and cut in above the crux for a much easier variation and is easily TRed by doing Robin's Ramp. The crux may seem a bit contrived due to the proximity of Hips and Valleys, but bolts were placed where sound rock could be found which was quite close to Hips and Valleys.

Stems & Valleys

Start as for PBR once under small roof go R to off width. up and back to PBR finish.

Blue Ribbon variation

Chimney up the right side of a large flake. At the top of the flake, follow another flake/edge up and left to the belay. For P2, trend up and left until you can move right.

Flee Fly Flue

I started cleaning this route in a driving blizzard late winter 2014 and it took some excavating to clear loose flakes.

Start in shallow left facing corner/seam,  the crux comes low and is a balance step up over to hold on arete, especially hard if you are under 6' tall,  some fun moves next, and then follow left traversing undercling until possible to go up toward tree.  Continue up crack system, trending left then right to anchor at 100 ft. There is descent climbing for 20' above there, and 25' of trees and dirt above that, if you want to go up to the Blue Tile Lounge.

Alternate start in offwidth on the left that requires slab crossing which will add a bolt soon.

All my Friends are Aliens

A slightly lower angle buttress just right of PBR. Follow layback edges to a thin crack above an overlap. Climb the thin crack (crux) to a face crack above (10a).

Folsom Blues

This is a very enjoyable route.  The crux moves are well protected by 2 bolts and are fun and somewhat unique, balancing along the edge of the narrow ramp.

Continue following the ramp and corner crack to the chains.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Mid Wall