Start just left of Despondency, climbing up/left out to the arête before topping out well off the deck.  This climb is rarely bouldered as opposed to top rope, as it is high, but has some of the best rock and better moves at Oak Park.  This is the second highest problem at the park only behind V8 Reflections and both have potential serious consequences from a fall up high where the crux's are.

Inappropriate Behavior

Start under the corner between Rocket Man and Despondency.  Climbing straight up on the arete finishing on a large edge or a high top out.

Desperado

Start just left of Anastasis with a high left side pull and a small carbonite pocket.  Move up and into the good edge and then into the high pocket and end in the seam.

Homeostasis

Just like it sounds, sit start on the right of the tooth and climb the short arete with a nice top out.

Tooth Right

Same as Grady but eliminate the high ledge system, staying on the lower holds, topping out same as Grady.

Grady Low

Start same as Grady.  Climb through the large diagonal crack above the Grady line and top out in the middle of the bulge right of Grady.

Diagonal Crack

Start in the large obvious pocket up in the corner left of the Mermaid Carving.  Traverse right to the large crack dividing the wall and then up, go as far as you want as the crack is usually pretty muddy and a mess.

Under the Mermaid

Start a few feet left of Mini Crack, grab an edge at chest level and shoot for the top block slightly left.

Top Tier Dyno

Start with a right hand side-pull on the right side of the arete at chest height and your left on a side-pull in some carbonate deposit hold. Step your left foot anywhere you can get a clean foot and match your right heel to your right hand and go. The problem ends at the very large side-pull in the shield hold.  Low start on opposing side pull right below the traditional start.  Tends to be set in the super but dry in the off seasons.  Its a good start to a great problem and not adding to the grade but it does get you full points on the problem.

Enigma

Same start as the Trick, eliminate the arete and climb straight up using a small edge high and right.

The Trick Direct

Sit start with both hands as low as you can go with your left heel hooked and placed in a slight depression. Continue up the arete and top out at the end. A great little warm up.

The Tooth

Start eight feet left of Finesse on high starter block and end matched on the same ledge system as Finesse. 

Intergalactic Quaalude Trip

Same as WG Cundey Eliminate but continue right one more move into a small edge under the feature and then go straight up finishing on good edges 10 feet up and drop.  The large feature used for the route proper is still off.

WGC Extension

Start to the right and under the main bulge of the park, just left of Doug's Roof.  This is the Ballerina bulge and holds some of the best problmes at the park.  Start low on right edge and left on the sidepull.  Climb straight up, move over left into the book and finish with a top out.  Ballerina High starts after the crux of the low problem and is much easier.

Ballerina

Eliminate - Start on the left of the Buns Bulge low below the obvious ledge bisecting the bulge.  Start hold has hands stacked below eliminated ledge climbing on the lower set of holds into a deep/good pocket then top out same as Buns Machine Gun High.A rock broke sometime in 2020 creating another good hold on the line making it somewhat softer than the V5 assigned but it's still a good problem with a solid top out.

Buns Machine Gun

Sit start on low holds on the far right side if the Yellow Wall.  Move up and slightly right staying on the arete and off the large holds around the corner.  Drop once you get into choss or go for the top and cross your fingers.

Yellow Arete

Start left of the arete and just left of the "9" carved into the rock above.  Climb up through crimps into seem and up into the backwards "P" carving finishing on the ledge.  This is the highest boulder problem and is typically done on a rope.  Topping out onto the ledge is easy enough but there is still some choss to be climbed after that to get all the way on top and a fall could easily be lethal.

Reflections

Start on either end of the wall traversing and staying below the 6' mark or so.  Good warm up area and usually the driest spot in the park.

Yellow Wall Traverse

Start on good edges at the six foot level and go all the way up the the large ledge about 12' up.  Going to the lower ledge is called the Jaundice Jump.

Yellow Wall Dyno

Sit start on the rock in front of the sun and up through the the large crack

Under the Rainbow

Start 4' left of Saving Grace and a little lower in a large undercling pocket.  Climb straight up topping out on the Saving Grace Bulge.

By Crackie

with your left hand in a slot, and your right hand on a nice flat edge, put your foot up high and jump up finding the jug on the left side of the long rail.

 

Despondency Dyno

Same start as Wheeties except move left into the good pocket on the orange streak and then up.  Solid problem, super bad angled landing makes it rarely climbed.

Wheeties Left

Eliminate - Same start as the Mantle Problem, eliminate all holds on the sides of the roof and go straight out instead of finishing up and left.

Mantle Problem Variation, The

Start down and right from the carving at a chest high ledge.  Move p and angled right into the top of the carving and match in the hold created my her high hand and drop or top out.  This is another of GL's older lines, the railroad ties make it a tough landing cruxing out directly over them.

Rated X

Start left of Ludwig's Dude on small pockets.  Move up and right into the slash, grab the bad side pull with left and jump to finish on the ledge.  Top rope to finish to the top.  Jamie Emerson first finished this is in 2000 and it stood as the hardest problem in the park until recently with Dylan Bark's V10 D-Bag.3 Pads minimum.

Resistance

Best Dyno at the park.  Left hand on a decent sidepull and right on an edge, paste your feet and go out right to a big slash.  Match and call it good, gain the face or top out into dirt.

Heart and Soul Direct

Long black streak of rock, climber's left of "Saving Grace." Standard traverse is left to right.

Slag Traverse

Start left of the “SAVING GRACE 8/5/27”   engraving on the overhanging slopey bulge.

Start on the jug 4’ left and below the engraving and climb up into the   faint water groove avoiding the huge ledges to the rightStart left of the “SAVING GRACE 8/5/27” engraving on the overhanging slopey bulge. Start on the jug 4’ left and below the engraving and climb up into the faint water groove avoiding the huge ledges to the right.

Saving Grave

Same start as Enigma and get into the left side pull and cross over into the slash on Heart and Soul, then up into the finishing large pocket.

Insomnia

Start on a bad left crimp and a smaller right edge and throw out right to a decent side pull.  Climb straight up and into the right most part of the mermaid carving, then into the right of the two obvious small pockets and up.  Gear up for one final big move into a jug a few feet below the lip.  Top out or drop high from the jugs, may as well top out from this point.Traversing left or right is not part of this problem as there are lines next to this one and that will get you into easier climbing.  Getting off the ground can be tricky as this is the hardest start at the park.  The line goes straight up to an alright top out, although a bit high.The development of this problem took a winding road as the initial pursuit was to find Wall Street which was last mentioned in a guide published in the 90's from Trails Edge that went at 5.11+.  Two Peace was the result of the initial pursuit and then rediscovering Wall Street to the left

followed.  The thin slot to start Peace was then established with its own top out coming next resulting in this line that stands on its own without any eliminates that is sustained the entire climb.

Peace

Climb or die

Start on Saving Grace starter block and dyno to the good rail above, match and top out.

Saving Grace Dyno

Start just left of Intergalactic Quaalude Trip on a high right diagonal good hold and reach out left for a less than ideal hold.  Climb up and slight left and go into the left part of the obvious seam and drop.

Asinine Behavior

Start on the left facing block as for Ballerina Direct and make a big move out right, continue trending up and left into the chossy headwall. Top out and downclimb Ballerina until you can drop off.

 

Comedy of Terrors Direct

Same start as Anastasis and climb up into good edges and instead of going left and into the pocket, stay slightly right and into the good higher hold on Heart and Soul and into the seam.

Anastasis Oasis

Start on the Intimidator block and climb right through edges finishing on Cowabunga Direct.

Low Rider

Start just right of the crack and climb straight up thru small edges in the obvious large seam.  Crack to the left is off and go straight up.

Rage

A traverse that starts/ends on Rocket Man and Inappropriate Behavior.  Climb up about 8' and work your way through the large ledge used on Astral Traverse.  There is an eliminate that takes the large ledge off called Minus One Traverse that goes around V5.

Astral Traverse

***Watch out for the railroad tie, it is an ankle buster****

 Dave Poxson had the idea to extend this regular traverse into one that tops out.  Climb almost all of Coffee Talk and then work your way into Highball/The Pocket Problem

 

Poxsons Pockets Problems (Coffee Talk Extension)

Same as midget’s delight just in reverse 

Delightful midgets

Start is to the right of Highball and four feet left of Top Tier Dyno.  Start on a sharp right crimp and bad left hand.  Go straight up and top out.  Several variations of this exist as well, all around the same level of difficulty.

Shorty

Same start as Two Peace

but move straight up after the first move eventually gaining opposing side pulls and up into the crimp.  Move out left into the jug shelf and call it good or top out which is way more fun.This is an old climb rated 5.11+ in a guidebook that went out of existence around 2000 and has been pretty much abandoned until recently.  

Wall Street

Sit start on low block left of the proper route.  Traverse right through thin edges, eliminate the large feature out right, and go straight up to gain a stance.

WG Cudney Eliminate

Links suicide machine(v6) to up yours direct (v5) feels close to as hard as mass hysteria light. 

Borrowed time

Start just down from Thailand and just before Saving Grace.  Sit start on the large jug shelf and climb up the two featured arete and drop at a high point before getting into the choss.  Notice the carving next to it and the origin of the problems name.

WG Cudney

Start same as Up Yours Direct move out and left to the high arete and up.  The holds get really thin after the first couple moves getting matched into a crescent shaped hold midway up.

Up Yours Super Direct Project

Low start matched on an iron plate and traverse left staying low until you end on the start hold of Intimidator.

Ride or die

Another eliminate on the Ballerina Bulge but it's a decent one.  Same start as Ballerina, and as the name suggests you only use the holds on the right of the open book and holds beneath.  The corner is on as the steepness lacks other holds, but the ledge for Ballerina proper and everything above is definitely off.

Ballerina Right

Sit start on low edges on the left center of Midget's Wall.  Climb straight up and into the hold onto the roof and drop.

Gen X

Start on the two obvious crimps and smear up the slab. Nice topout and an easy exit on the backside.

Living on the Ledge

Stack pads, use stump, or jump start to a two hand rail, pull through the open book, walk over to chips and climb down. Could be a bad fall on the retaining wall be careful. A dirty and wet direct start begins awkwardly a bit lower on a two handed undercling/sidepull, and goes at V5

Ballerina High

Start at the base of the right side of the roof on jugs.  Climb out the arête a few feet and up to gain a stance and drop or top out.

Conscientious Objection 2

Stand start on the corner with left pocket and good right edge.  Left hand up to the softball sized sloper and then move onto the face finishing in the large seam.

Bonsai

Grand Ledge eliminate.  Sit start on two low/thin edges.  Climb up into the sloper, the jug part of it is off, and then up and left into the large ledge and drop.  The large ledge off left at the start is also off.  The start holds are directly below the start of Rocket man and a foot is straight down and low.

Odie

Start left hand in seam and right hand under the roof on an edge.  Climb along the lip of the small roof finishing up on the arete gaining a stance on the face, same as Blind Faith.

D-Bag

Get into the a set of holds around 6' up and launch for the top.  

The Trick Dyno

Start on the large and obvious slopey ledge.  Traverse right only using holds on the seam at the same height of starting hold.  Eventually get the feet in the letters and move into another obvious block above the seam, gain a stance on this block and call it good or top out exiting left.

Pick Your Nose

Sit start on the right side of the bulge about 15’ left of the diving board/mantle problem. There is a fist sized crack about 3’ in length below chest level that serves as the start. Eliminate the large diagonal crack near the start and everything above the obvious ledge system traversing it across to the left and topping it out when it peters out.

Grady

Start at the crack, move along pockets and decent feet until you're under the V and can reach up to top out. A long reach and effective edging help.

Viper

Same as the rope climb but with pads.  Start right of Rocket Man on a large positive hold, move up to a large edge and then a big move up and left into another large ledge and drop.

Astral Projection

Start on Rocket Man and traverse right around the corner, across Despondency and onto the pillar in the corner.  Traversing either way is about the same difficulty but offers a different sets of moves.

Rocket Power

Despondency except the lower typical right-hand start hold, the slightly higher typical left-hand start hold and the thin chipped pocket above the crescent edge are all off as you boulder to the same ledge.  The theme is the three manufactured holds are off.

Despondency Natural

Start just below of The Trick on a low and obvious block.  Climb the face without using the large crack sticking to the arete and some edges.There is a large and intimidating looking rock behind this climb but it doesn't really come into play.  The lower part of the climb falls come straight down and as you get higher the tendency is to drift left and the rock is not really close to the drop zone.

The Treat

Start at the left of the large crack in the Buns Bulge.  Climb right and when the crack ends top it out.

Buns Machine Gun High

Start same as Scofic, move left hand up, right onto a bad edge, left up onto a bad sloper and shoot for a good hold.  I don't think this has ever been done and is still a project at the park.

Scofic Scam Right Project

Start same as Ballerina and traverse right through some very funky moves.  Finish matched on the good rail just left of Up Yours Direct start.

Suicide Machine

Start left of Doug's Roof on low jug and left sidepull.  Climb straight up heading for the slot at the top of the face, up and left of the "Up Yours" mono and end there.  Kind of a high fall from the top but the landing is good.

Up Yours Direct

Start same as Mass Hysteria traversing left.  Instead of moving up into A Comedy of Terrors Direct, continue traversing into Ballerina and top out.This is reversing the Suicide Machine line that Jamie Emerson established in 2000 or so.  Locals looked at this for years afterwards with no success.  When Brendan Baars came along he not only finally did the long-standing project reversing the traverse, he added the hardest line to top it out creating Mass Hysteria which is an amazing line...some of us just ain't that strong!

MHL (Mass Hysteria Lite)

Start a couple of feet left of Asinine Behavior on opposing sidepulls. Further up, finish in a thinner part of the same ledge system or a smaller rail a few feet below.   There is a low start on some sidepulls and moving into the original start holds.   This climbs up and into a two-finger pocket eventually meeting up with Pretzel proper.  The landing is usually really muddy though and on a slope.

The Pretzel

Go straight up while avoiding bailing out right.   This is one of the older lines that finishes with a top rope.  This problem has also been bouldered out, as have many of the rope climbs.

Despondency

Start on either side of the wall traversing to the other end using the high line of jugs.

Yellow Wall Traverse High

Start in the corner and move up and right topping out on the bulge.  Was much safer before the wooden pedestal for ropers was added...

Cold Turkey

Same as the mantle but on the right side instead 

Diving board

Start a couple feet left of Max Scene Arete on good lower block.  Climb up the arete eliminating all the large holds out left leaving you a couple small edges and a useful knob.  End in the triangle hold and drop or top out.

Thailand

This is an older problem and has changed over the years because of erosion and how much lower the ground is now on the west side of the great roof.Start/finish on the Walk on By starter block and the right most set of holds on the wall before the corner to the Mermaid Wall.

Midget’s delight

Hand to foot and up the slab. Requires adult assist or the pre-pubescent amygdala of Alex Honnold.

Little Crusher Direct

Same start as Heart and Soul Direct, on the side pull block left of Enigma.Climb up trending left though small edges into a higher slot and finish at the large obvious seam.

Anastasis

Start on a low shelf on the right side of the wall.  Climb up and out into the large hold on the arete.  Finish and drop, gain a stance or go for a dirty top out.An old eliminate was removing the hold circled in green, Mr. Sulu, about the same grade.

Mr. Spoc

Start right at the waist-high ledge at the base of the pedestal and go straight up and then left at the end to finish on the good ledge.

Despondency Right

Start on the ground just left of the rock pedestal that Pigeon Shit starts on.  Left hand in small pocket and right in sidepull crack and make your way up and slightly left into jug and the rope route.

Pigeon Shit Direct

Start on two small stacked two edges left and below the Intimidator Block on the lip.  High left heel on the larger step or right heel on a small/good edge and climb into the traditional start for the route and gain a stance.  Contrived but its alright.

Intimidator Direct

On the left side of the Buns Bulge on the huge ledges the obvious start.  Paste the feet somewhere underneath and jump for the top.  Going out left to the lower ledge or using any other starting holds other than the ledge itself is not part of the problem, although they're still fun.

Buns Dyno

Start right of Pretzel on some side pulls for a low start or a couple not so good holds higher up.  Climb up and trending left into into original problem.

The Pretzel Variation

Start on the face with both hands at chest height, then get the half moon shaped hold. Eventually, get on the right arete and fire to the obvious finishing ledge and drop off.This can be topped out or top roped to the top but it is not recommended it is loose and dirty and not as fun as the lower section.

The Trick

Start on low obvious block and climb the arete only.  There's the jug low and a small micro edge about 3/4 of the way up the arete.  Finish on the large ledge system same as Trick and Treat.

Trick Arete Project

Low start on the right side of the Yellow Wall and climb to the large obvious shelf about 12' up and drop.

Yellow Wall Right

Start on a decent left facing side-pull and crank with the right to a hold just over the mini roof. Find a foot and launch to the jug up and left. Top out.

Professor P AKA Scofic Scam

Low start on the iron plate and climb up and slightly left into good holds under the small roof then through thin edges up to the obvious ledge or into the large seem.

Cowabunga Direct

Start on the low block and move into a thin edge with the right hand.  Work out left staying on the face and finishing in the large triangle feature or top out a few more feet of easier climbing.  The large ledges out right and good pocket are off as this stays on the left of the face and going right is an old climb named Staircase done on TR.

Max Scene Arete

Eliminate - Start same as Ballerina High and eliminate everything on the right side of the book and top out.

Ballerina Left

Sit start on low holds under the black overlap. Stay right of the rounded arête, climb to the jugs or contend with the filthy top out for bonus points.

Unknown E

Great little slab to practice balance on. The intended way to climb it is without using elbows, arms, or knees to aid you in climbing this slabby rock. Great fun to try out just for kicks. It unfortunately doesn't help warm up your hands for other climbing.

The No-hands Slab

Large pockets, easy boulder. Great warm up.

Highball aka Pocket Problem

Start at the side pull and crimp just below Ballerina (green tick marks shows start) Use slippery feet under you and crank up and right (red ticks shows holds). Crux is just over the lip, holding on to a sloper and throwing for a small crimp.

Comedy Of Terrors

This is the boulder problem to Frank's Climb which goes to the top.Start with left in shallow pocket and right on thin crimp.  Move up into a really small pocket and a decent crimp and go for the seam.  Continue to the top on TR or drop from the seam.

Frank's Problem

Tricky intro into Comedy of Terrors Direct. Start with hands in the jug part of a decent left facing vertical slash and traverse left until you can gain the good crimp under the roof below the Comedy of Terrors Direct headwall.

 

Mass Hysteria

Start as far back left on the bulge as you can with two slopey edges.  Throw up a heel and climb into Buns Machine Gun proper.  Instead of toping out after the large pocket stay low and continue right into the large triangle shaped pocket.  Move up staying off all the good edges used on Buns Machine Gun toping out on the arete.

Buns Machine Gun Full Value

Sit start in short vertical crack on right side of the wall.  Straight up and top out for a nice warm up.

Mini Crack

Start high on the carbinite jug on Walk on By, climb up and right along the lip of the roof into a big jug.  Go straight up from the gaining a stance on the jug and jump down.  this can obviously be linked to the end of V4 Walk on By for a full value pump.

Hollywood

Same start as Walk on By.  After the first couple of moves, go up into a crimp and out onto the arete finishing in the crescent moon.  The Walk on By jug is off as the problem climbs the arete straight up.

Description

Location

Routes in Bouldering