
First pitch is 5.0, second is 5.3. Short, easy route, great for beginners with good stances for placing gear and bolts between pitches and at top for setting up a belay.



Climber's left of stairs, past the pinnacle and the Split Ledge - below next ledge system with a low-angle broken up area below. If you get to another ledge system with a spring at the base, you've gone too far.


Bolts after each pitch


Median

Army Days

Weedsworth

Orcstone

Discovery

Rogue's Gallery

Golden Showers

Final Finale Direct

The Father

So Good

Molson's

Finale

Stickety Clip, Barba Trick

Sylvia's Crotch

Treed Lightly

Crack One

The Mother

Maverick

Super Solenoid

Export

Blessed Mary

Dilly Dally

Treed Lightly (Extension)

Hanging Tree

Son of Firefall

Chalky's Arete (aka Oblio — The Pointless Route)

Chalk

Steve's Arete

Hot Stuff

The 5.3 Right of Median

Funky Fingers

B.S.

The Fire Escape

Buckingham Right

Fingerlickin

Buckingham Palace

The Fire Escape Indirect

The Chemist Returns

Up Comes Lunch

Two Pieces

Zilch

Raccoon Army

Loblaws

Wild Weed

The Overhang

Crack Two and a Half

Crepidation

Trepidation

The Blocks

Bogus

Space Invaders

Bohemian Rhapsody

Holy Trinity

Be a Mentor

Holy Cow

Poor Tree

Abendrot

Footloose

Scary Monsters

Front of the Pinnacle

Pinocchio

Showpiece

Lutz'z Route

Dreams

The Nose

Wet Dreams

Ape Factor 6

Straight Up

Yard Sale Season

Discovery 2nd Pitch

Be a Hoot, Don't Noise Pollute

Two Pieces Direct

Deadline Crack

Creepy Crawly

Sinusitis

Holy Cow Semi-Direct

Bird's Nest Soup

Easy Chimney

Crack Three

Jiminy Cricket

The Walk

Chalky's Balance Climb

McMaster Special

The Bulge

Fallen Trees

Find a Mentor

S.O.B.

Deadline

Thank Mr. Goose

Son of Bogus

The Overhang Indirect

Loblwas

Dave's Diversion

Space Case

Sacred Cow

Buckingham Palace Direct

Final Finale


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Bolts and anchors


The obvious roof crack left of BS


Standard rack


Very fun and enjoyable. Crux section between two ledges about halfway up.


13 bolts and 2 anchors


Easy line that climbs up and to the left on Pinnacle wall



Farthest of the three bolted lines on pinnacle wall

Bolted and bolted anchors

First set of anchors are deep on a ledge about 40% up the cliff. A few loose holds (one on the lower left at the beginning of the climb and one on the higher left close to the first ledge). Limestone.

Bolts and anchors


Can be done from ground up with about 16 draws, just extend or skip the midway anchors. Crux sequence is high enough from the ledge to avoid a bad fall.


Bolts and anchors


Two cruxes separated by good ledges. May look more intimidating than it is, the holds are there once you commit!


Bolts and anchors


Climb corner up to ledge, scramble up and left to belay below a right-facing corner. Climb corner to roof and move right to escape.



Climber's left of stairs, immediately after pinnacle.

Anchor at top

Climb to bolt, then up the crack on the right

2.5 meters left of McMaster Special, opposite of pinnacle.
All RSP is bolted for Top Rope


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Bolts and anchor


Climb either of two facing corners to large ledge. From ledge, climb lightning bolt wide crack and move right to top out near tree.



Couple metres left of The Blocks

Std rack


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Bolts and anchors

Start a meter or so left of McMaster. Climb through the roof.  
 Trad- don't trust the pins

Just climbers left of stairs, before pinnacle.
All RSP is bolted for top rope.


Blocky and polished, like most of the climbs in the area. Overhanging arete that features many blocky segments. 



Right most sportline in the Pinnacle Area (closest to the stairs). 

Bolts and fixed anchors.


From the ledge at the top of (bolted) Discovery, continue up corner right to Median Ledge. From the ledge, continue up the corner right to the Median gully, cross over and climb up the steep wall above passing another old bolt to the top.



Climber's left from the stairs, past pinnacle and Split Ledge, before stream.

Std rack


Awesome climbing with a few reachy moves on good holds (crux).

Stick clip to 2nd bolt or extend first bolt to minimize rope drag, also might be good to extend the 3rd draw (at the first ledge).


Bolts and anchors

Start at pedestal, hit the roof, call it a day, pretty simple.

All RSP is bolted for top rope.


Nice climbing up to an anchor immediately below and to the right a large block.



Immediately right of PD

Bolted and bolted anchor


Fun climbing to an anchor above and just left of a large block (climb left of the roof)



Just down the wall and around the corner from Pinnacle wall. 

Bolted and bolted anchor

Sun (am) and shade (pm) all day. High Volumes of people, so area is busy on weekends.

Instructional climbing is allowed only on the main wall (West and [East Cliff](../0a186c5b-f0e1-5ae4-be45-08ebe466e265)). Do not sling the cedars; if unsure, don't sling trees at all.

Top rope anchors are provided for many routes, along with edge protection bolts further from the cliff edge. Use them.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in West Cliff