Doesn't the name say enough?  This friction-dependent one move wonder is over way too quickly, and while the movement is fun, it would be a whole lot better if it led to more climbing.  Sit start the slightly overhanging short face with your right hand pinching the arete wherever you can find enough friction to hold on.  Pull on a crimp sidepull with your left hand to help control the inevitable barndoor.  The feet are obvious.  Now just pull off the ground and dyno to a good jug up and left.  Stick it, and topout.

A Swift Kick to the Head

A classic, albeit short, little climb that is more about technique than pulling power.  Stand start in the middle of the face with a good left hand crimp and a right hand undercling pinch.  Work those feet to stand up into the undercling and reach up into better holds.  Finish up to the top on easier terrain.

The Jitterbug (aka Try Again)

Listed as a V0 in the guidebook, but it doesn't feel like a V0, maybe after 20 repeats.... Highstep nubbins, or lean on your arms and use nubbins off to the side to start. Getting off the ground and reaching for the far up pinch was the crux for me.

Rock On

This is a short route but has a enjoyable move or two. 

  Sit start at the lowest point of the arete, using a heel make crux moves to a good jug. Once at the jug traverse the lip until you reach the big boulder and top out.

Hemlock

A much harder version of Oblivious to Danger that avoids the holds out left and tackles the dihedral.  Start as for Oblivious to Danger and pull up into the undercling.  Cross to a gaston in the dihedral, then figure out how best to get into the good high undercling.  The lack of footholds complicates things.  Stand up to the decent hold at the lip and finish the highball top arete/slab to the peak.

3 Guppies in a Plastic Bag

Start in the wide crack as you would for Creatine Buffer. Using a really weird start, make a hard move to get established in the crack. Once in the crack move left to the shallow dihedral and work up top the top.

A.T.P.

I found this while doing Annticipation aka campfire tales. Start on the left arete with your right hand in a slot crimp and good feet. Go out right to a crimp (next to the one for campfire tales) figure out some beta to get to the left jug and then top it out. Top out is a little strange at first but once you get it its good. Stay on the face going around the arete is much easier. This shares none of the holds with campfire tales except the crimp. 

Ghost Stories

An alright climb with decent movement over a disgusting landing.  

  Start on some decent holds down low then climb straight up following the arete.

Wreck Em

Sit start the short overhanging face. Make a quick move to the lip and topout 

Jailbait

Want to climb the concave, slightly overhanging face of the Old Gold/Arch boulder via a large slopey flake, a couple of crimps and a cool sidepull? 

  Next to Arch Nemesis, this problem has some of the best movement on the whole boulder and while the moves are obvious, it's not as easy as it looks.  

  Start low with a left crimp and a right hand pinch on the flake. The starting foot is for the right foot and it's the little chip in the corner formed by the flake. Pull up to a good gaston divot for your left hand and then grab the obvious right hand crimp. At this point your fingers might say "No!". Crank on the crimp to get your left hand up to the half moon shaped hold and figure out how to grab it. It's far worse than it looks. Get a left foot on the start crimp and stand up to the sidepull. Now just get to the lip, either with a scary little jump or a delicate couple of "princess" moves with your feet. Top out with a mantle. Solid rock, fun moves, and deserving of more traffic.

Golden Arches

Sit start next to a rock on your right and pull up onto the good holds. Throw left hand out to the slopers and match. You have one good foot underneath near the ground. Bump right hand up to the better sloper and throw left hand to the far crimp, then bump left hand to the gaston crimp near the arete. Now for the crux! Right heal up on the bottom sloper and power your way straight up to the tooth undercling. Grab that get your feet good and work straight up. 

youtube.com/watch?v=d8Utl7A…

Oyster's Ridge

start standing at the crack and smear on the wall to get off the ground. after that just climb up and have fun! There isn't too much of a crux on this route it is pretty strait forward. the finger jams that are on it are fantastic and the only bad thing i can think of the route is that it isn't long enough. i definitely recommend this problem. it was a blast when i did it and its great confidence booster for the not so skilled boulderer. the only wierd part of this route is the descent... it can be a little tricky

Classic

A short, burly problem.  Start crouched on a rounded arete, sitting on a not so comfortable stone, with a low crimp and bad feet.  Make a few hard moves to the right on crimps and then up on slopers.

Gadgetry

Sit start on a good right and a small left hand. Make moves up dirty crack. Once at a point where you can, shoot for the arete and rock over.

Thrutch

This problem starts sitting on a good jug.  You maneuver yourself under an overhang, moving right, with your feet on a slick rock slab and try to stick the severely sloping crimp-rail with both hands.  Then, for the crux: you shoot a hand up, blindly grasping a very sloping, but nicely textured open hand grip.  More hard moves ensue, possibly making use of a heelhook to the right, eventually moving up to a nubbin that is a couple of feet above the sloper.  Moving left can reveal more sidepulls.  An awkward move to gain the slab finishes the hard part.  The slab above is still not trivial.  THIS PROBLEM IS AWESOME!

Dopeman

Start standing with a low foot and two opposing crimp underclings. Establish yourself on the rock, find a higher foot and jump to the lip. A fun, goofy little problem. Worth a few attempts while you're here.

Double Deuce

This is a harder face problem then "The Hueco Problem" so if you like bouldering slab then you must do this one. Crux is getting off the ground it may not hurt to think palm... once established on the rock move up to better holds and a fun top out. The large crack used for the down climb is just to your left, if it is used it is a V0.

Gimme Crack

Sit start on the large flake left of the arete. Pull up and get a large left foot then stand up and climb the arete using the good crimps and slippery feet. The top out is a jug.   Easier if you are tall.

My Brothers Wife

The very high problem at the top of the hill, kind of in a small courtyard of problems, opposite Gadgetry.  Sit start with small crimps and cramped small feet.  Make a powerful move up to the left, traverseto the right around the faint arete, then up and back to the left for the 20+ foot topout.  After you grab the small horn the holds are pretty decent, but it's still pretty scary, dramatic, fun and hard.

Maxim

Just to the right of Gadgetry is a short arete squeezed by a block on the right. Sit start and make very awkward move off the ground, the crux being not swinging and touching the block to your right. After the start enjoyable easy moves lead to the top.

Toolshed

Big moves on crimps lead into a gaston, a pocket, then a jug before topping out a ways off the deck.  Like the sound of it?  This problem is rarely touched and probably a whole grade harder than it's neighbor, Maxim.  Sit start as for Maxim on the flake and the crimp, make a big move up and left to the next crimp, then figure out how to get into the giant gaston up and left (look for a hidden right hand crimp up high).  Using the gaston and a sidepull to the right of it, work your feet and cross up to the pocket before grabbing the horn of Maxim.  Top it out.  Techy, tricky, and really good.

High Tech Issues

This is a fun face problem involving a tricky start. The crux is getting off the ground and getting your feet to stick. Start next to the right arete right in front of a small circular hueco (the origins of the name) use the hueco or other small hands and put your feet on and beg for them to  stick from here move up the face on increasingly good holds.

The Hueco Problem

I'm surprised this route hasn't been posted already. Though not as popular as other highballs such as The Whip, this route offers good climbing on a striking crack. The commitment level is comparable to The Whip and over a worse landing. Start on a jug at waist height and stand tall to establish the crack. Cool moves lead to a committing smear to reach a great fingerlock. Once you establish the lock, take a breath and reach the lip.

X.L.

Sit start with the left hand on the starting rail for the right start of "Dopeman" and the right hand a few feet to the right on a square cut sloping pinch. Pull off the ground and move up to a blind hold before grabbing one of several options for the lefthand. Once here figure out how to reach high up to a sloping edge before standing up and balancing into a comfortable position utilizing a thumbdercling. Once here reach up to the sloping lip and grab a nice jug horn for the topout.

Nope Man

A beautiful, striking arete that is both deceptive and frustrating.  It's about as much of a V3 as the dyno method on it's neighbor, the Crimp Problem, which is to say they're both probably sandbagged or skewed in favor of the taller climber.  If you're up to it, have a seat at the base of the arete with a right hand crimp and your left hand pulling on the arete.  Bump up the arete a few times, grab a terrible crimp with your right hand and decide if you want to keep bumping up the arete or dyno to the juggy lip.  I'll leave it to you to figure out the footwork.

The Baby's Cry

Start sitting in a bit of a hole. I started with my left on the large pinch and my right below it on a crimp/edge. Piece together a way to the top and avoid hitting the boulder behind you. Trickier than it looks and surprisingly powerful.

John's Problem

Sit start around the arête and move up on crimps there is always chalk on this problem, I think it may get confused with another problem on this face. This problem is in the guidebook problem 52.

Jelly Rock Arete

An improbable and impossible looking face with tiny crimps and bad feet.  Start sitting on a dish-like hold at the lip of the overhang with a high right foot. Power up right hand to a slopey hold before moving through some microscopic crimps up to the topout. 

  A hold has broken near the top.  Condition of the climb is unknown.

Ill Saint

Start sitting with both hands on a horizontal jug in the blackened slightly overhung wall with good feet down and right. A back-step can setup a long reach for a left hand layaway and some more feet setup after that allow for a swing right to a sloper (crux) that sets up the exit moves using great crimps.

Annticipation (aka: Campfire Tales)

Sit start on the wide crack and move up and right following the wide crack. The start is the crux and there are a few ways to pull off the ground I used a heel hook and a low right hand and and a left hand in the crack, but its up to you.

The Creatine Buffer

This is the sit start to the popular Crimp Problem. Start sitting with left hand on a positive crimp and right on an under-cling. Get you body position right and pull up to the small smile shaped crimp that marks the start of The Crimp Problem (V3).  Then finish up that problem.

The Crimp Problem SDS

Satan’s Half Sister Ali

Start sitting way low to the right of the obvious crack/flake that ascends the large hill-top boulder.  A few burly pulls lead to very sharp holds, which finally become jugs.  Whew.  The rest of the problem is more fun...layback or jam the fantastic flake twenty or so feet to the top of the boulder and imagine you're Michael Reardon soloing in Joshua Tree.  The easiest downclimb is off the backside.

Sauce

This climb is a must if you want to complete all the highballs on the Big and Tall boulder, but otherwise you might want to walk past like you always do. The route is typically covered in pine needles, but if you are good on your feet and can keep a calm head then cleaning off needles as you go won't be a problem. From a stand start work up the blunt arete to the left of CREAM. Avoid working right and finishing CREAM. With some committing smears you will figure out a sequence to the top.

Brain Supreme

Sit start on the left side beside some boulders that get in the way.  Follow the flakes up and right. Top out (same as Call and Response) above the crappy landing.

Flight

A one-move dyno problem on the Balance Boulder.  Start with a sidepull crimp for your right hand and a slopey crimp seam for your left.  Get your right foot on a chip practically underneath the boulder and dyno (crux) to a horn at the lip.  Top it out. 

  Keeping the right foot on can be tricky for some.  At one point I wound up on my back underneath the boulder.

Anasazi

Stand start with a large foot and a pair of opposing sloping gastons. Pull on into the slight scoop and make a hard lock-off to the arete. Once on the arete, figure out how to dyno to the sloping lip of the boulder and topout.

Oncoming

Stand start on good holds just right of the tree and climb up the black rock to an easy top out. I found the crux to be right in the middle of the route. Generic climbing.  

Ball and Chain

A big, long highball flake with good holds the whole way.  This problem provides the highball topout for the problem Sauce (V3), but is plenty fun on it's own.  Grab hold and climb straight up, but keep your head, since the topout is high.   

  Watch out for an occasional snake on top.

Cream

Stand up into the large obvious undercling with your feet smeared on the sloping ledge below.  Reach up high for side-by-side crimps, work your feet, and snag the juggy lip before topping out onto the table-like summit of the boulder.  Trust your feet.

Iced Tea

Did you use to wrestle in High-School? Good at mantels? Did you crush "Boulder-X", or cruise the top out of "Ride The Lightning?"? This problem is just waiting for you to tick it off then! My brother says he would pay to watch footage of this being climbed! 

  Sit start as for "Labrador Dreams" and make a move or two left and top out, or top out from the start holds. a bad heel and a hard press will get you onto the slab and eventually to the big hueco like pocket up top, where you can dip your raw fingers in crystal clear mosquito-larvae infested water.

Tin Can't

Even shorter than its neighbor Midget Porn, this two move problem is for those with a short attention span.  Sit start with a left hand sidepull and a very small right hand crimp.  Pull off the ground and pop to a good slopey shelf.  Make one more move up and left to a jug and topout.

Debbie Does

Start with your right hand triangular crimp and your left hand on a blocky pinch with a high right heel and a low left foot. Make a series of compressiony moves with tricky feet to the slopey topout.

Fanciness

A very deceptive crack climb that reverts to face climbing near the top.  Stand start with hands in the crack and pull up to get established.  Follow the crack for a few moves until you can stand up into the large black undercling and reach for a welcome jug.  A few more moves will deposit you on top.  Although given V0 in the guidebook, this felt far more difficult.

Cut Up

A big time classic! This line was one of the first climbed in the park. Though originally rated 5.9 as a trad line, today it gets most of it traffic from boulderers and is considered solid V2. Either way its a bunch of fun and a big tick for anyone who considers themselves a local.  

  Climb the obvious layback crack on "The Whip" boulder from a sit or stand. Cool moves lead to the crux at 2/3 height. The crux is a classic commitment move. No thank you jugs to toss to or hidden sidepulls awaiting discovery. The crux demands a committing step up on a good foot to reach an excellent finger lock. From the lock move up carefully on good holds and top out.  

The Whip

Stand start with a low sloper on the lip of the boulder and a right hand undercling just above the steep overhang.Pull on to the wall with a giant foot and figure out a sequence in order to trend rightwards on small edges and/ or large friction dependent slopers. A hard move to a bucket on the lip marks the end if the hard climbing. Once this chicken-head jug is obtained one can mantle easily.

Lelantos

Sit start on two slopers to the right of the "Labrador Dreams" start holds. There is also a large undercling feature that might be useful, but is unnecessary. Traverse rightwards using some foot trickery to reach the good incut crack, mantel and top out with ease.

The Tin Can

Slopey feet, a few crimps, and fun moves.  Stand start at the nose to the left of the crack with a left crimp and a right sidepull.  Pull up to a set of decent crimps before working into a high, juggy flake.  Follow the better holds over to the flat top.  Might feel hard until you figure out the beta.

Cosmic Cam

Start sitting on a smaller boulder (about 2 feet high) on a left undercling and a right crimp, with a left heel hook and a right toe under the boulder.  Bump up left to another crimp then make a powerful move right and then up, or just go straight up from the crimp.  Mantle the finish. 

  Used to be harder until the starting crimp broke and got bigger!

Atlas

Sit start with a good sidepull pinch on the crescent shaped arete, and a small smooth left hand crimp to the left.Pull on and span out to a good hold. Figure out a way to match, once matched, climb up using some tricky feet and sloping holds before doing a hard delicate deadpoint to a two finger dish. Once this dish is obtained, get the feet up and reach up to some slopers on the diagonal lip. Once on these slopers, figure out a way to execute a committing and exposed mantle above a less than ideal landing.

Ball and Chain Sit

This route is powerful. 

  Sit start on jugs and work your way up and left up the arete. This route is interesting and has some very slippery holds (which is a real rarity for Pway). Good foot work and body positioning will get you to the top out jugs.

Arch Nemesis

This line follows a thin seam up a steep slab. Start by getting as high as you can on the ramp below the boulder face This allows you to reach up to a 1/4 pad right hand crimp and and a left hand in the seam. A very high left foot gets you onto the boulder problem and into the increasingly widening seam.  Work up with the seam and with decent feet.  You can finish straight up the entire face or cut slightly left. (the rock cuts in to a roof below the face so this seemed to me, a very natural approach to the line).

Crack Em Up

Super short problem, the problem it the short slightly overhanging arete. Sit start with one foot on each side of the arete, and hands on the obvious holds. Work feet around to left side then stand/mantle to top. Good for beginners to practice sit starts

Just Stand Up

If you don't like crimps, try another problem, but the chalked-up shape of a crescent moon on the rock might suck you in for at least one try.  Grab the crimps in the moon, pull on the wall, and dyno for the lip.  Sounds easy, right?  Alternately, pull on, then gaston a right hand below the lip before popping for the top for an easier time. 

  For the full value, a soft V6, sit down on some decent crimps and crank into the stand start on the moon.

Crimp Problem

Sit start on a good left hand flake with a small nub for your right hand. Pick some feet and make a deadpoint to a good crimp up and right and do the fun top out.

The Wet Spot

A short sloper problem.  Sit start to the left of the tree with a left hand undercling and a right hand on the sloping arete.  Pull up with good feet, follow the arete to the left and pop for the juggy lip.  Topout straight up.

Lip Sync

Start one foot right of the tree on small crimps and a good really high foot or pick one of the smaller feet lower, grab some real small crimps and move up to a good hold. Like many of the face problems on this boulder the first move is the crux.

Maceo

This climb starts directly to the left of High Tech Issues on a crimpy flake at about head height. Moves right to a tiny edge of a sidepull and from there up to the High Tech Issues sidepull and top out as for that. 

  Was told this was a project back in November, its not on here or the new Pway guidebook. Just saw its possible FA on Saturday 12/27

[Redacted]

Squat start on a rather crappy sloper/crimp with your feet on a huge foot hold. Work your way up the slopers find little delicate feet and a good sloper/crimp get a decent foot and reach for the huge jug for the end get both hands on the jug and get a foot up on the top of the boulder and rock over and up to the top  

  A little foot has broken off so it might make it a little harder to get your feet along with you without campusing across to get the good feet

Elephant Back

This line is a full value V1, the holds are solid and the exposure comes quick.   Briefly follow the black streak as for Ball and Chain and then break left to climb the face. Keep trending left to the (apex) highest point of the boulder where you mantle the topout.

Unchained

Great moves up a right leaning arete and scoop.  Start as for Iced Tea on the large undercling and pull out right to a crimpy sidepull in the scoop.  Work your feet across good edges and follow the arete up and to the right either by hugging the arete and small slopers out right or by laying back with a high left foot.  Harder than it looks.

The Becoming

Sit start with the right hand on the crescent shaped arete and left hand out left on a small smooth edge. Pull on to the wall and figure out a sequence in order to gain the sloping lip then make a long reach to a peanut-like hold. From this peanut, gain some more slopey holds and execute an exposed and delicate mantle onto the large slab.

Healing Arts

An odd yet semi-fun problem that climbs a short arete via a sloper, a crimp, and a heelhook/mantle.  Woohoo!  Sit start at the bottom of the arete with left hand on a great hidden sidepull and right hand on the jug.  Pull off the ground and heelhook the right start hold.  Mantle until you can reach up right hand to the sloper.  Free up your left hand to grab a crimp on the arete, then work up to the positive lip and topout. 

  May result in a cramping calf muscle.

Brett's Problem

A slopey lip traverse.  Sit start with both hands matched on the lowest part of the lip.  Traverse left on friction-dependent holds until you can grab the back arete and mantle over onto the face and topout. 

  Due to aggressive brushing, the holds are becoming more polished.

Labrador Dreams (aka Tin Arete)

A fun rising traverse over a not so great landing.  Sit start or pull on to the rock at the base of the flake.  Follow the sloping flake up and left until you gain jugs near the arete, then topout straight up on good holds.  The first few moves are the crux, but a fall will usually result is bouncing off of a rock at the bottom. 

  With a spotter, there is nothing to worry about... unless they don't know how to spot.

Call & Response

Sit start with the crescent shaped arete for the left hand and a right hand undercling/ gaston on the lip of the low roof. Pull on and move up to a series of sloping holds for the right hand and up the arete for the left. Figure out how to make a big reach to the book-shaped pinch feature on the slab and venture up the tall slick slab to the top of the boulder.

Ancient Moon

Cool lil climb if u get shut down by everything else.    Probably been done a million times, but didn't see it on here. 

  Start on monstrous flake, put a foot up high, balance on the flake and reach for the top. Arete off.

Little Nicky

Start sitting with a good left hand jug and a right hand pinch with a slopey right foot.  Pop up to the right hand jug (crux) and stand up to follow a few thin crimps up the low angle face.  Jugs at the top will assist with the easy topout.   

  The stand start is V0. 

  Not bad for something that rarely gets climbed.

DJ Dan

This problem is a great one. 

  Start sitting just beneath the right facing corner with a very high right foot and a couple decent hand holds. Cam your knee in and get a great knee bar that you'll use through the next 2 moves, make a cool move to a hold out left then work that knee bar and grab the strangely oriented pinch up high on the bulge with your right hand. Grab sloped holds above, look around for feet then finish up the easy slab. 

  Downclimb the slab for the dismount onto your pad.

Bring the Ruckus

One of the best highballs in the park, this obvious face climb sat either dormant or unclimbed until late summer of 2011.  Start on two good edges to the right of Cream and pull up to a slopey undercling in the dihedral.  Stand up and reach for a left crimp (this move is shown in the photo), then bump your hand up the underclings.  Slap up right for the decent hold at the lip and decide whether or not you'll commit to what comes next.  Pull up to a sidepull crimp on the low angle arete and rock up onto the high slab.  Gather your nerves and continue up the arete to the top. 

  For the full line, tack on the two move sit start, or traverse in on Sauce for something much more difficult.

Oblivious to Danger

An easy climb that uses the arete of Cause for Commotion on the left and the arete of the down climb on the right. 

  Stand start just to the right of Cause for Commotion near a tree and climb up the well feature face using the arete's on either side to an easy top out

Jelly Belly

Three quick moves and it's over.  Yeah, so it's a bit short, but it's actually worth the time.  Start sitting to the right of the tree with a right hand sidepull and a strange left hand crimp with large feet.  Pull up with difficulty and snag a crimp before matching.  Toss straight up to a good jug and topout.

This problem is so much better than it looks.  Although it is rarely climbed, it can be a lot of fun.  Start with a good left hand crimp and a bad seam for your right hand.  There is a good foot underneath.  Bump your right hand up to a better hold, then dyno up and left with your left to a slopey lip.  Campus over for a few moves until you can get your feet back on, then topout straight up. 

  Clean off the lip before you attempt it.

Minion

When reaching the top of the hill, one of the first lines that people notice is this sharp arete next to the trail.  There used to be two good flakes on the left of the arete, but both have now ripped off and the scars are quite obvious.  The quality of the line may have improved now that any loose rock is gone, but it doesn't climb quite like it used to.  Sit start with the good rail down low, or use an optional crimp out left along with the rail and pull up to the arete.  Grab the edge that is a foot lower than the flake used to be and work your way up the arete with techy feet to the jugs at the top.

Cause for Commotion

Stand start right at the waters edge, with an awesome hour glass shaped left hand start hold and good feet. Throw up right up to a great two pad jug and move feet to set up for the next 5 or so moves.  Trend left along great holds with good foot holds & smears.  Don't fall at the start or your be swimming in round pond!  Super Fun, just do it....

No Pads Necessary

Collection of Boulders around Round Pond. This Area is very similar to Blair Woods in rock quality. However, Round Pond is my personal favorite cool down spot in the fall bouldering season because it is awesome to hike out with a few cold ones and boulder a bit then kick back next to the pond and boulders and relax after a day of pulling hard. 

  There are many classic lines, including The Whip(V2), Bring the Ruckus(V3), Dopeman(V8), and Gadgetry(V5).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Round Pond