Stand start at the lip of the roof on a decent left hand sloper with a thumb catch and right hand on another sloper a foot to the right Campus off the ground and throw up a heel before pressing it out and balancing your way up the slab to the top.

Camelio's Mantle

Sit/squat start with a small crimp for your right hand and a slopey sidepull for your left hand. Pulling off the ground is hard and you have tiny feet. Stand up and make a desperate move with your right hand up into the slopey undercling. Then adjust feet and throw left hand up to the good crimp above. (At this point you are at the starting holds of The Hug)You can now get a high left foot and make a committing dyno move to the lip. The top is fairly flat and you can make a relatively easy topout at this point.

The Hug Sit

Start start on two triangular crimps. Pull on to the face with a few foot options and reach over to a good but sloping sidepull/ gaston, set the feet and make a hard move to the large rail next to the arete. Latch this and stay tight! A few moves up the arete gain a topout jug. A rad problem worth doing!

The Big Crimp

If you like Essentials but wish it were longer, then you'll love this route.  

  Start matched on a good flake crimp, pull off the ground with some difficulty and then head straight up using a slopey mono pocket, decent slopers and foot smears, tricky high steps, and a hard hand/foot match up high that could be avoided by trusting your feet on "eh" smears. 

  The giant flake at the top sounds pretty hollow, but I don't think it'll come off unless you're using a crowbar.  

  Personally I think the best way to get down is to walk to the arete to the left of where Red is, have someone place some pads and spot you, and then hop down.

Eye Of The Devil

This modest looking climb is actually quite good, with powerful compression moves and a very fun dyno. 

  Start standing with your right hand on a sloper sidepull at 5-6 feet and your left hand on a high angled sidepull crimp at around 7 feet. Pull off the ground and make a long reach to get your right hand to a good hold on the right arete. Sort out some feet and dyno for the lip. Stick the swing and finish out with a mantle that is a bit more difficult than it first appears. 

  This climb is somewhat morpho since the span between the two aretes is fairly big. It might feel easy for tall folks. It might be impossible for those on the shorter side to make the span. 

  There is the possibility for this to be done from a sit start, using a small right crimp and a weird sidepull/pinch for the left. This feels signficantly harder. Perhaps v9ish? 

The Hug

Sit start from good holds under a low roof, fire out to the lip with the right hand and then work out left and up the face to the arete.  try to avoid ferns and moss as you top out

Sit start with left hand on the arete, and right hand low on a small crimp side-pull. Get a right foot smear and pull on with difficulty. Move right hand up to a diagnol crimp rail and then bump the left hand up the arete with difficulty. Go right hand out to a good flake, and choose your feet wisely.    Grab the pinch on the arete and the small crack for the right hand and continue up the arete or do a small dyno to the top lip. 

  Starting one move in is still a sit start and is slightly better and goes at around v2. Start with the right hand on the diagnol crimp rail.

Faint

Start on LH undercling on left face, right on pinch edge on arete. Slap RH to higher crimp on arete, then bring LH to a small crimp at the same height on the left face. From here, either do a big dyno to the Doing the Dew start or a big LH deadpoint. Climb that problem to the top. The 2nd move is by far the hardest, but the first and 3rd hand moves are also fairly hard, and the foot movement between them is incredibly tenuous.

Big Gulp Project (Doing the Dew Sit-Start)

Start with a few cool stemming moves to gain the crack. Layback the crack to a cruxy finish. You really have to commit to the layback to reach the jug at the top. Easy walk off.

Tradster

Start standing with both hands matched on a really high edge at around 8 feet or so. Shorter folks will have to stack some pads to reach the starting holds.  

  Pull off the ground and work up the faint dihedral/corner using some right trending rails. After establishing on the face, make some very tenuous moves to gain the lip high off the deck and holds that are not quite as good as you were hoping they'd be.  

  Technical and exciting climbing for the grade.

Doing The Dew

Start left hand on the heavily chalked hold to the right of the asshole and right hand out on the edge of the roof, jump up to get the right foot on.  Slap out on slopers, place the left foot and heel hook to the edge of the roof.  The crux is pulling up onto the face.  Top out and descend as for "Red"

The Big Ocean

Stand start with a large left-hand undercling on the arete, and the right-hand low on a small brittle undercling right of the arete. Pull onto the wall and make a hard move to the sloping lip before matching and topping out on slopers.

A Burnt Offering

Smoke on the Water

Start on a couple thin crimps then scamper your way up with some pretty small feet.  Stay balanced as you reach up to a pretty solid side pull.  From there you can go after a sloper or move to another crimp rail.  There is a crimp rail over the lip.  Grab on and scamper like you've never scampered before for a sketchy top out.  I'm told this is an FA but if you know more let me know!  Not certain about the grade either so I'd love some feedback.

Scamper Slab

A fun one mover. Great for warming up and running laps on. Start with the left hand in the jug on the left facing flake, and the right hand slightly higher in a crack. Find your feet and hike them up. Trust your smears and fire to the good lip. Or just reach up.

Bradley's Dyno

Want to test your core/power endurance? Here’s the problem for you! Stand start as for Camelio’s Mantle and campus on a left heel. Make a move or two through the overhung frictionless arete until you can gain a small sharp crimp with the right hand. Find a way to bump the left heel in and match the small crimp. Bump righty to a pinch intermediate or go straight to the jug sidepull. Release the heel and hold the swing. Now throw up a blind heel/toe and go inverted to move around the corner arete and enter “Smoke on the Water”.

Bong Water

Start with both hands on the chalked hold to the right of the asshole, with the same rigth foot as for the Big Ocean.  Cross through with the right hand and work out the edge of the roof to the left.  Top out on the arete on the left side of the boulder.   

Up in Smoke

This is the central area of the Den.   This area is home to "Red", "The Hug", "Doing the Dew", "The Big Crimp" and numerous other superb problems.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Up in Smoke Area