This is already described as a variation of Magic Fern, but it seems to me worthy of it's own designation as a route. And there is confusion about which goes where. Jon's overview map found on this area heading is helpful here. The Clint Cummins book gives it a 11a, SVR gives it the 10d. The start was 5.8 in both books, which seems right once you make it to the first finger lock. The left side crack on the fin above is the thin tips crux. It is short and protects with small nuts and cams. The 2nd pitch is the chimney on the right above the big ledge to flaring hands ( originally considered 5.9) which I would agree with others posting on Magic Fern, that it is 10a.

Curious Poses

A long, left-leaning, left-facing corner.

Looking from below, you might think the climbing was fairly monotonous. But actually, you can use all sorts of methods to get up it, and there are quite a few face holds on the left wall to get rests, particularly near the bottom.

The crux is probably near the top, just above where the horizontal crack cuts right.

The top has a two-bolt chained anchor.

Wet Dream

Steep face climbing, sort of like an easier version of Model Worker.

Start to the left of "The prairie fire that wanders" and "Eraserhead", at a slightly elevated region behind an old stump. A few moves on a flake take you to a steep, sustained headwall with bolts. The crux is not a single move, but rather the pumpy sequence to the third bolt. Being flexible can help here. Though originally rated 10c, the route has been known to stop solid 5.11 climbers.

A chained anchor lies at the top. One can rap with a single 60-m rope.

From the anchor, one can do a short bit of easy climbing to reach the anchor on "Prairie fire" to top-rope the latter. Conversely, one can top-rope "900" from the anchors on "Prairie fire".

900 Oil-stricken Waterfowl Taken to Ocean Shores

A short, steep, thin-edging face climb. It's hard to find the edges on this one. Just three bolts.

Ends at anchor in middle of face.

Tea Bag

The first ascentionists of the original Brad Driscoll route liked the name so much they decided to give the variation to the right the exact same name.

Brad Driscoll Outnumbered His Guests But a Good Time was had by All (2)

Climb up a flaring corner to a roof.  Pull the roof on the right and follow knobs to the chains.

Imagine Your Best Student Here

Face climbing with a short corner finish.

After doing the crux of Beckey-Stanley, go straight up over the roof/overlap. Then follow the crack-corner to a large ledge. See Beckey-Stanley for suggestions on the start.

Brave the Suppressed Laughter of the Tweeny Maid

Senior Citizens in Space is the obvious right facing corner.  The climbing is consistent with no obvious crux move.  Layback up the corner split by a couple of cracks on the left side.  The angle lessens as you get higher.  One of the best moderates at Index.

Belay at the 2 bolt anchor at top.

Senior Citizens in Space

Istanbul has been cleaned up and the extension awaits your passage.  Climb between Istanbul and Wild Turkey and avoid the left crack until past the "X" marked block.  Then enjoy the wide cracks and hand stacks while thinking poorly of your partners who will get to simply Lie-Back the moves.  When you arrive at the Istanbul anchor, leave your trad gear behind and enjoy the lightness of being that is Sport Climbing.  Pull around the roof and move like a gecko up the arete and slab.  Baseball sized knobs await near the top.

Constantinople (Istanbul Extension)

Steep, wide crack on left side of the corner left of Battered Sandwich.

Istanbul

A short, steep face.

When it was first put up, Greg Childs reported it (along with a few other routes) as being shorter than its name, and 'by stacking the syllables on top of each other, the first ascentionists found they could bypass the crux entirely'. See excerpt at right.

Not much is known about it now, but the 'Brad Driscoll' rock marks the trail turnoff for Private Idaho. It will always be the leftmost route on the cliff.

Brad Driscoll Outnumbered His Guests But a Good Time was had by All

Climb to the top of the pedestal that is just left of Wet Dream. Do one undercling-face move (crux) to large edges above overlap. Face climb up holds, trending left towards the short left-facing corner. Climb corner and face flakes to the chains.

unnamed 7

A bouldery face move off the ground leads to a bolt. Traverse left on a large edge and go up to a mantle with a bolt (can be done by stepping in from the left). The face crux involves climbing from the ledge to the start of the crack.

The crack crux is at the bottom. Soon thereafter, a sequence of two hand pods is reached, providing some rest. But the crack remains interesting and pumpy to the top.

I Am In Top a Shader

Bolt-protected, thin-edging with high-steps on a short, steep face.

Three Trucks Stacked on Top of Each Other

Climb up to a thin crack (~5.9). The lower (splitter part) of the crack can be entered from the left side, either at the very bottom or in the middle. Even the easier way from the middle is probably 11a. The splitter part turns into a groove that is much easier, taking one up to a small roof.  At the roof, where the crack arcs left, climb straight up onto the slab past three bolts (crux). The apparent runout at the top is on much easier slab (~5.7).

Noodle

A bouldery start leads to knob climbing and smearing.  There is an anchor at about 35'.  The route continues up to a second anchor at 70'.

Eraserhead

Go up the shallow corner just right of "900 Oil-stricken Waterfowl Taken to Ocean Shores" to the roof. This part of the route is the same as "Imagine your best student here".

Clip bolt over the left side of the roof, then layback the edge on the left side (~10c/d). At the top of the layback is a small bulge. Going over this bulge may be the crux for many (~10d). Continue up face & crack features to a nice finger crack, which ends at a large ledge.

The Prairie Fire that Wanders

A bouldery start leads to a right-traversing finger crack with good knobs for the feet.  Continue up the wide left leaning pillar.  From the top of the pillar, continue straight up (5.10) or out left (5.9).

Magic Fern

This formerly vegetated corner between Battered Sandwich and Instanbul is now clear of brush and ready to climb.  Start in the corner. Lieback, stem, and chimney your way up the widening crack.  There is an anchor at the platform where the crack ends (thank you to whoever installed this!).  From the top of the crack, you can also continue by making a few moves right to the base of the flare of Battered Sandwich (Turkey Sandwich??).  This adds some great climbing, a little spice, and a grade or two.

Wild Turkey

Climb to the fourth bolt of "900 Oil-stricken Waterfowl Taken to Ocean Shores", then follow the seam-to-crack that goes left. The seam part at the start is the crux. The rest is a pumpy hand traverse, followed by a 10a finger crack going up to a belay.

Beckey-Stanley

Stay on the blunt arete just left of Senior Citizens.

I Can See Your House From Here

Layback up the arete just right of Senior Citizens. The crux for many is just below a small overlap. Even though the bolts are all on the right side of the arete on the bottom 2/3 of the route, one may find it easier to sometimes climb on the left side.

Even when many other routes are wet, this one may be dry.

Spineless

Climb to a bolt, step right to the start of a flake, layback and undercling up and right to where the flake ends. The crux is making an improbable reach up and right to a ledge.

From the ledge, either clip the anchors of Eraserhead, or continue up to the tree.

You can also continue up right from the tree (~5.9, two bolts).

S & S

This nice 5.9 crack climb features some wide cracks then a flared chimney, with good pro the entire way up.

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Routes in Private Idaho