Solid 5.10 climbing directly up the face gives way to a nice resting stance.  Shake out, and pull a series of gnarly moves to get over the left part of the well-protected roof.

Litmus Test

A surprisingly fun route, Teenagers in Heat starts on some great pockets for 4 bolts before going to more technical climbing of edges and sidepulls. The first half of the route is slightly overhanging with great pockets. Angle backs off at the 4th bolt with a great rest before the technical ending. Don't be afraid to wander a little up top.

Teenagers in Heat

Rated 5.11d in the book, this route has suffered from the continuous demise of a "key" hold in the crux roof section, and is now, in my opinion, pretty solid 12a....especially for the area.  Maybe I just don't climb it very often so it always feels hard.

Big jugs lead to a roof, which you climb around on the left side of the bolt, and the pump really just builds after that as you climb on slopey pockets and edges to the chains. Somewhat of a testpiece for the lower grades.

Division

The crux is at the 2nd bolt and is definitely bouldery. Find the best spot on a crummy sidepull, bring your feet up, and make a big move with your left hand to a good hold, then big pockets to the top.  It's short, powerful, and tricky. You might spend some time at the crux figuring out how to do it. It's overhanging till you pull the bulge.

Nowhere to Go

A bit right of the northwest corner of

Division

, off a small ledge is a line that runs up a slightly overhangin, narrow face to a small roof near the anchor.

Isotoner Moaner

ascends the clean face on thin edges and an occasional rough pocket. While there is a short 5.12 sequence near the middle, most of the climbing is very continuous middle to upper 5.11.

Isotoner

is a fine line that probably took considerable cleaning to arrive in its present state.

Isotoner Moaner

Great route - some hard moves between good pockets with the best at the end!

Liquid Oxygen

There are two distinct sections on this climb: The first bit is superb jug hauling starting with a slight traverse (.10d).

To complete the .12a, don't clip the anchor bolts under the roof, instead clip the lead bolt to the right of the anchor and continue up. You get a no hands rest at the roof. Then the business starts; it's an overhanging, crimpy problem to some better holds up higher. The climb has some cool vertical fins, not unlike shark fins.

Shark Club

Starts with a couple of big moves to reasonable holds. From the 2nd bolt reach with your left hand to a two finger pocket, then with your right hand to a jug. Trend right to bolts 3, 4, & 5 then left up the arete (don't go too far right!) Fairly sustained 5.11 climbing. Clip the sport anchors from a good horn out left.

Shallow Beginning

This climb is straight forward pocket hunting till you get to the dihedral. You clip the last bolt then you discover a weird stemming awkward move with crimps and underclings to the chains. I recommend falling there, it's very exhilarating.

Pocket Change

Immediately right of Isotoner Moaner are two face climbs a body length apart, and Rush Hour is the left of the two. Climb up on edges and pockets on excellent stone. Crux is low, so save some juice for the continuity above. Fine addition.

Rush Hour

This route ascends the right facing dihedral and cracks located between Remote Control and Quicklime Girl. The climbing is surprisingly pleasant on generally good and relatively clean rock.

The crux is about midway up. There are a couple of loose blocks. Although they seem securely wedged in place, and unlikely to fall out, you should excercise caution.

Although we could find no record or physical evidence of prior ascents, we suspect it has been climbed in the past, simply due to its prominent location.

Multiplication

Just to the right of Black Hole, on the north face of Division Wall, Physical Therapy offers varied climbing on good pockets and edges. The short arete (crux) can be easily avoided by ascending the faint dihedral to the right of the bolts. Both sequences keep you on route, although the arete is more technical and committing.

The sloping hillside at the base of these routes is stepped with logs and gravel, making belaying a breeze.

Physical Therapy

Off the ledge and right of Remote Control is a 30 meter line the starts out by surmounting a small block with a bolt in it. This continuous route waits until near the end to deliver its crux, and like Ruckman says " you've got to believe if you're going to achieve". Lots of 5.11 climbing that gets thinner and thinner the closer you get to the anchor. Really good line with lots of continuity.

The Atheist

Easy beginning until you pull onto the vertical section and the holds get smaller and the moves become more technical.

Kiddie Pool

This is a long route!  Plan on some awkwardness in the initial corner.  The route then wraps around to the right and out of sight of your belayer.  Climb the beautiful face to the left of Isotoner.  The two routes eventually merge for the final moves and finish at the same anchor.

Secret Weapon

Running Woman

is a fun, yet gripping route on the

Division Wall's

taller west face. Starting off on some very uneasy ground the

Running Woman

tests your limit of balance and strength. Fight the will to "take" and get a quick rest on some solid holds. Punch it through the crux and avoid sounding like a screaming,

Running Woman





Running Woman

phenomenon only known to occur in the sometimes, egotistical male.

Running Woman

Pumpy and powerful, with a distinct crux near the end. Contains nice pockets, but also some very slippery, polished edges.

The Abyss

Fun climb found between Total Recall and Baghdad. Crux is between the 3rd and 5th bolts.  Lots of hidden side pulls, a few good crimpers, and a modest splattering of pockets.

Not as difficult as 39 or The Atheist but it will make you think.

Blurred Vision

A reasonably fun route with jugs, pockets, and stemming. Climb 8 or 9 feet to a ledge, clipping a bolt just below the lip of the ledge. Continue up on pockets and edges until after the sixth bolt; move left and stem in a dihedral to the top.

The hard part for me was after the fourth bolt. Two-finger pockets, an insecure sidepull and a difficult-to-commit-to, reachy move to the next bomber pocket.

Les is More

The first crux is at the first semi blank section and very fun. The last blank section to the top is the REAL crux. You get a huge rest then clip the last bolt then you get to do a v3-v4 boulder problem to a sloper. Very cool.

Total Recall

Good pockets, long reaches and left hand side pulls characterize this short but powerful route. While not super steep, Baghdad will leave you gasping for air. Steep climbing on good holds. A longer draw on the second bolt is helpful. The pocket at the fourth bolt is very positive.

The route is very sustained for the first four bolts and there really aren't any rests. Crux is probably going from the third to the fourth bolt.

Angle eases off after the fourth bolt.

Baghdad

Moderate climbing to the first two bolts. Stay right from the 3rd to 6th bolt using pockets and edges as the climbing steepens. The crux is the final moves to the anchors.

Quicklime Girl

What a great route. Different than most AF routes because you only have a small handful of pockets on the entire route. Most of the climb involves moving from crimp to crimp while trying to fight the burn. There are a few places that you can get solid rests if you can find them.

Deep End

Remote Control is the second route right of Isotoner and climbs a clean vertical face on great edges. Remote is a good warm up for Isotoner, but is a bit more sparsely protected. Good rock.

Remote  Control

Easy climbing (sporty at one point...so don't be overly cavalier) on jugs leads to a bulge with small holds on nice rock.  This is the crux.  Some odd crablike climbing gets you back to the left and the chains of

Running Woman

.

Someone added a bolt up and right from the crux, so you can cross onto

Division

.

Struggling Man

Black Hole is located on Division Wall's north face, just a few feet to the right of an obvious offwidth crack. The short, fingery crux is located between the second and third bolts, followed by highway cruising on large pockets and edges. All clips can be made from bomber stances, making this route a reasonable choice for aspiring 5.10 leaders.

Black Hole

Link up!!!! Climb the first 4 bolts of Liquid Oxygen, then bust right into the top of The Abyss using the small  mail slot pocket and a 1.5 finger pocket. A long draw on the last bolt of The Abyss is helpful, as it’s a tad spicy through that section.

Liquid Nitrogen

Starts in the middle of the wall, in a very small alcove. Climbs up and left for three bolts before angling up and right. Classic pocket pulling for most of the route. Crux is going from 5th to the 6th bolt. There are a couple of crimpers above the 5th bolt before going back to some pockets. Three good right hand jams exist on this route, as well as a creative rest by the third bolt.

This is a great route and definitely shouldn't be missed.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Division Wall