West Face Variation

The Backbone

Northwest Passage (Aid)

Astro Monkey

East Face

Just Do It

Monkey Space

Monkey Farce

East Face Start

Spank The Monkey (Full)

Spank the Monkey

Path of Totality

West Face (Aid)

Moving in Stereo

Rising Expectations

West Face Variation Direct

The North Face

Pioneer Route

Monkey Off My Back

Northwest Passage (Free)

Classic hard line straight up the monkey. Most recently, Adam Ondra onsighted it (2018), and as far as I know Paige Claassen has the only female ascent from 2014.

Ryan Palo describes it in an interview post-send from 2012:

"The route breaks down into two parts. The first section in the white rock is a low angle 5.13d. Just the first six bolts could be considered a 5.13c, then there are some deadpoints to small edges and pockets. It's really off balance and technical."

It then goes "into a 5.12+ section where the rock color changes to purple. Then it gets ruckus with big leaps on slopey holds. There is probably a six move V9 on half pad edges as it gets steeper. Then there's a really hard traverse with blind moves into the final boulder sequence. Going to the last bolt, I was taking 50-footers and clearing the purple rock, landing way down in the white stone."

Some sending videos:

- [Drew Ruana (age 15)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-5om6lG_d8)
- [Adam Ondras with a special appearance by Smith Rock's pioneer Alan Watts](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=krEwPAcQi9M)

This prominent tower is one the best known features at Smith rock.  Its asthetic beauty is enhanced by the historical ascents and world famous routes on its clean faces.  Monkey face still holds some of the hardest climbs in the world as well as a plethora of classic trad and sport lines.  It's most famous route, Just Do It 5.14c is still a testpiece route for aspiring hardmen/women.

Other popular pastimes include making the tyrolean traverse from the main buttress to the monkey's mouth.  This airy span is also often used for a spectacular high line walk.

Description

Routes in Monkey Face