Small crimps lead to an incut jug and committing mantle.

Dire Wolf

Smokestack Lightnin

Musashi

Hara-Kiri

I absolutely loved this problem.  You begin on smallish edges, traverse left, and make a long reach to a good hold.  At this point, you are hanging over what feels like a bramble filled abyss.  A fall wouldn't be terminal, but you certainly wouldn't want to do it.

As you get higher, moves get a bit harder, and the delicate mantle in the no-fall zone is great fun.  It seems to be rarely climbed, so expect to find a little dust on it, but I thought it was pretty clean regardless.

A fantastic line involving big moves between poop slopers, finishing with a dynamic move to a pinch.  An absolute blast.  Start matched on the obvious jug.  Pretty straightforward at first blush, but I found it to be surprisingly technical.  Originally rated v11, which is a bit of a stretch, but I've heard it called v9, too, which is a stretch, also.  I gave it what seems to be the consensus grade of 10 from people who have sent it because it feels that way to me and because I have paid the price in the amount of skin I lost working this thing and sliding off the slopers...

Whatever the case may be, this is a super fun problem worth doing any time you're in the area.

Start on undercling crimps right of Musashi. Throw up and left to better holds, then climb up for an easier finish.

Description

Location

Routes in Musashi boulder