Charlie and I climbed this route during the totality of the 2017 eclipse.  It was an exciting venture and an exciting route (really it's just a long and exposed boulder problem several hundred feet off the deck).   

  Start a little left of the middle of the cave and climb out the overhang, doing gymnastic moves and some campusing while veering rightward.   

  I placed two cams in a rotten horizontal shelf about 10 feet into the climb.  If these blow you will take a factor two fall, your rope tightening over the 90 degree lip of the cave.  This would be very bad and I think the climb deserves an R/X rating (I bounced tested the placements before I lead the route and they held.  They might hold a lead fall). 

  After this do a really spectacular move that involves an undercling jug, a heal hook, and a little crimper fin.  So neat! 

  Then stay calm, move even higher above those cams, do a nifty reach out right, sling the natural handle bar, and say yippee! phew! thank goodness!  Then change your diaper.

Path of Totality

This variation on the Pioneer route provides the finest moderate route to the Monkey's Summit.  It adds several great pitches and about another 100ft of climbing to the standard route. 

  Pitch 1:  Begin on the right side of the west face of Monkey Face.  Begin in a short section of flaring chimney or just to the right of this chimney on a small crack on the face.  Move up these harder opening moves onto easier cracks. Continue up through a dihedral with a few bolts and a few mini roofs to a stance and a bolted anchor just below a 4th class ramp.  This pitch is fairly long.   

  Pitch 2:  Climb the slotted ramp above to a steep large roof.  There are several variations here but the easiest is follow a crack out the right side of the roof.  Pull around the roof on the right side and you'll see the anchors.  

  Pitch 3:  Traverse left on a slab protecting in a thin crack on the wall in fron of you.  From here head toward the notch formed between the monkey and the main buttress.  Continue up the slab on the Pioneer route to the anchor below red rock and the aid pitch.   

  Rappel as Pioneer route

West Face Variation

This mega line has got to be the most striking multi-pitch sport route in the country (if not the world).  It's possible to start at the very base of the tower using the Sheer Trickery approach, but rumor has it Sheer Trickery is harder than the crux pitch of the Backbone (and considering the fire power of the FA group - Wolfgang Gullich, Ron Kauk, and Alan Watts - it's easy to believe). 

  The most expedient approach is to traverse the 5.6 choss band from below the start of Spank the Monkey.  Once on the arete, you will likely be a bit nauseated by the exposure, so you might want to take it bolt to bolt the first time up.  The crux pitch starts out pretty casual with some ultra-exposed and reachy 5.11 edging.  After 4 bolts or so, the North Face flake crack splits out to the left.  Get a good rest here, then tackle the first technical crux.  It's possible to 'cheat' past this first crux by climbing on the left side of the arete, and reaching around the corner to clip.  The bolt line is recommended for a pure ascent, but since you get a full recovery before the real crux, the left variation probably does little to affect the route's overall difficulty. 

  Another excellent rest on the left side of the arete allows you to depump for the final dynamic, airy and overhanging crux section: a rising traverse from the left arete to the right, up the widest part of the narrow face.  There's no way to climb around this section!  Once you reach the right arete the business is over, and a few easy moves lead to a no-hands rest and optional anchor. 

  The 3rd pitch goes at a terrifying 12a.  If it were 12c, you would have the option of dogging it and working out the moves like on P2, but since its "only" 12a, you're pretty much obliged to go for the onsight, which is a tad spicy to say the least.  This pitch starts out pretty steep with good holds, but gives way to some mossy slab climbing. 

  Once in the west cave, two exits are possible.  The pure line begins with a jump to the first hold, and attacks a steep line of jugs straight above the backbone.  Or you can always slink out the 11b Monkey Space exit to the left. 

  The crux pitch is probably the easiest 5.13 at Smith, but with all the exposure, you likely won't complain too much.

The Backbone

This route also goes free at 5.12a A0.  

  P1 - C1+ or 5.12a AO - Follow the first pitch of the West Face route. Starts at 5 bolt ladder.  

  P2 - C2 or 5.12a -  Turn the arete to the left on on bolts leading to the crack of the North Face. Belay at two bolt sling belay. Bolts that lead up right go up the West Face.  

  P3 - 5.7 C2 or 5.12a - Follow the crack past one bolt to another bolt. From the last bolt begin to hook or free climb right and up into the mouth.  

  P4 - 5.4 C1 or 5.11b - Follow 5 bolts out the the mouth mantle to ledge, aid off one more bolt then free to the top. Belay at two bolts.

Northwest Passage (Aid)

Pitch 1: Sustained difficult face climbing on thin edges past three bolts gains a very thin crack and 1 more bolt to a small roof. Above the roof easy climbing leads to a two bolt anchor (11d).  

  Pitch 2: A steep finger crack for 12' leads to lower angle climbing and an anchor at the base of a left facing and slanting dihedral (5.9). 

  Pitch 3: Sustained 5.10 climbing in the dihedral (some fixed gear) leads to a bolt above a roof. Pull the roof (11a) and belay on a small ledge. 

  Pitch 4: This short pitch goes up a dihedral and right around a small roof to a large ledge (Bohn Street) (10-). 

  Pitch 5 and 6: Finish on Monkey Space (5.11). 

Astro Monkey

This route also goes free at 5.13d! 

  P1 - C2 or 5.12c - Aid or free the crack to a sling belay this pitch eats nuts.    P2 - C2 or 5.13d - Aid the crack up past 4 bolts (replaced by Alan Watts on his free attempt). Belay from 2 brand new bolts.    P3 - 5.6 C1 or 5.10b - Aid up the bolt ladder past one old belay to a slab to the summit. Many old bolts on this pitch.  

  P1 & P2 link with 60m rope. This takes more gear so you might want to back clean a little.

East Face

Classic hard line straight up the monkey. Most recently, Adam Ondra onsighted it (2018), and as far as I know Paige Claassen has the only female ascent from 2014.

Ryan Palo describes it in an interview post-send from 2012:

"The route breaks down into two parts. The first section in the white rock is a low angle 5.13d. Just the first six bolts could be considered a 5.13c, then there are some deadpoints to small edges and pockets. It's really off balance and technical."

It then goes "into a 5.12+ section where the rock color changes to purple. Then it gets ruckus with big leaps on slopey holds. There is probably a six move V9 on half pad edges as it gets steeper. Then there's a really hard traverse with blind moves into the final boulder sequence. Going to the last bolt, I was taking 50-footers and clearing the purple rock, landing way down in the white stone."

Some sending videos:

- [Drew Ruana (age 15)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-5om6lG_d8)
- [Adam Ondras with a special appearance by Smith Rock's pioneer Alan Watts](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=krEwPAcQi9M)

Just Do It

This variation to the Pioneer Route is the most popular way to ascend the monkey face free. It is classic in its own right.   

  Begin up the Pioneer or West Face Variation routes up the Monkey.  Monkey Space starts at the bottom of the aid bolt ladder pitch. 

  1st Pitch:  5.11a Begin at the ledge atop the first pitch of the pioneer route.  Head directly to the left and then up into a cool cave on the west side of monkey face on well placed bolts. 

  2nd Pitch:  5.11b  Move to the north side of the cave and move up on steep, powerful moves but positive edges for a few moves and then move up slab to the summit.   

  Descend as Pioneer route.

Monkey Space

Wonderful splitter finger crack into perfect/cupped hands with thought provoking moves - some bad rock (protected by a bolt) as is to be expected for Smith trad. Guidebook gives it an R but the natural line is directly up the west face variation and most certainly not an R as that is attributable to a weird traverse the FA did going hard left at the very end on 5.7 terrain. Go straight up the crack system instead. This line has PG gear and intriguing balancy crack climbing. 

 Link this route straight into to West Face variation (anchors directly above) and then Monkey Space or Pioneers if you want to ascend to the top.

Monkey Farce

The Lower E Face is a very good technical crack climb protected mainly by stoppers. An ascent placing gear is a worthy challenge compared to the most 12c sport climbs at Smith.

 Start off with a mix of face climbing and a finger sized crack. After the flares cease, the crack thins for about 35 feet, moving passed a glued in piton (??) and a pumping crack switch. You'll either need small fingers or be able to lock off past the thinnest pin scars, which usually accommodate 2 fingers. The final 20 feet to the mid pitch anchor aren't too bad.  Apart from a 15 ft section around the pin, the protection is bomber and plentiful if you can hang on to place.

East Face Start

The extension of Spank the Monkey provides an excellent challenge for anyone who enjoys exciting arete climbing. The  route is similar to the bottom in both movement and bolting. Instead of climbing through easy terrain runout, you climb an overhanging, relentless, and very sharp arete runout. There are 3 bolts protecting the entire upper section. Like the bottom, you'll have a bolt at the hardest parts, but you'll be expected to climb 5.12 far above your last bolt.  

  With that said, Full Spank has some of the best arete movement around. It climbs through flawless welded purple tuff, featuring every arete trick in the book.

Spank The Monkey (Full)

This breathtaking arete will doubtlessly test your courage.  Runout from the moment you leave the ground, only 6 bolts protect 80 feet of climbing! 

  Fear not, however, all of the hard moves are well protected.  Typically the sequence goes like this: clip a bolt above your head, do a hard 5-foot boulder problem, then run it out for 10 feet of 5.9ish climbing to the next bolt, and repeat. 

  At the end, (just below the color change), traverse left to the anchors for the 12c first pitch of the East Face crack.  There is a 7th bolt on the arete just above the traverse left.  It's possible to climb up and clip this bolt, then climb down and execute the traverse.      

  A bolted extension to Spank the Monkey was recently freed by Tommy Caldwell at 5.13+.

Spank the Monkey

This climb also goes free at 5.12a A1. 

  P1 - C1+ or 12a A0- Start on the western point of the monkey at a 5 bolt bolt ladder. Then aid the crack at C1, cam hooks and offset nuts are usefull here, clip a few more bolts, then mantel onto ledge. 3 bolt Anchor at small ledge.  

  P2 - A1 -  Aid the bolts to sling belay. 

  P3 - easy 5th C1 or 5.12a - Aid more bolts to a scramble into the big west face cave.  

  P4 - 5.4 C1 or 5.11B - Aid out of the cave on bolts to some free to the summit.  

  Descent: Rap down to the nose boulder then one double rope to ground.  

  Note: Pitches 2 & 3 can be linked with 60M ropes. This climb also goes free at 5.12a, except for P2.

West Face (Aid)

This is the alternate, and perhaps slightly better, start to Astro Monkey, following a line of bolts 15 ft right of the normal first pitch. Supposedly holds have broken on Astro Monkey's start, making it harder and arguably less awesome than Moving In Stereo. You decide! I was personally drawn more to MIS so I thought I'd share some beta:

 I'd peg the opening moves to the first clip to be a height-dependent 11c/d. A stick-clip would've felt real nice.

 The crux felt hard for the grade, definitely old school 11d. Felt like 12a to me, but I'm pretty soft ;)  There's some really cool Houdini beta at the crux. 

 You could TR off the first anchor, but a better ledge awaits you 50 ft higher if you're continuing up Astro Monkey. Its 5.8ish to the next belay, and some sketch rock, so you may want a .5 or .75 piece, and you should probably bring a piece to back up the belay. There is one good bolt, but the other two are questionable: https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/111123032

Moving in Stereo

The leftmost line on the East Face, Rising Expectations features splitter tips and fingers on beautiful, overhanging rock.  A brief section of tips gives way to fun plugging and chugging through the meat of the line.  The last move is a potential heart-breaker.  You've been warned...

Rising Expectations

P1: Same as West Face Variation   P2: Climb up and left to dihedral crack that leads straight up to the finish of West Face Variation P3

West Face Variation Direct

This stellar crack system is one of the best routes on the Monkey, and easily the best crack of its grade at Smith.  The crux crack pitch can be climbed in two pitches, but is much more classic and challenging as one mega pitch.  Be sure to use a 60m rope for this option. 

  Considered by many to be 12b, the crux pitch requires a multitude of skills and abilities, not the least of which is the ability to place gear while pumped.  The final traverse in to the West Face Cave will feel pretty desperate with 50m of rope hanging from your harness.

The North Face

This historic route was the first line up Monkey Face. It begins on the southeast side of the tower.Pitch 1: 5.6 Scramble up a series of ledges to a ramp up and right to a vertical crack that takes you to the notch formed between the main buttress and Monkey face. Once at the notch turn the corner and climb up the face using traditional pro, bolts, and fixed pins. Belay at the left of two anchors on a long ledge.Pitch 2: C0 Move up an overhanging red face on a bolt ladder into the "monkey's mouth." Belay from the unique angle-iron anchors.Pitch 3: 5.7 Move the belay to the east edge of the cave (mouth). Reach out of the cave and move straight up the face for 25 feet on bolts to a ledge with chains on the "nose" boulder. This classic pitch is short but airy. The opening moves have been called "panic point" due to the noticeable exposure.Pitch 4: 5.5 Ascend the boulder at the belay and move northward. Step across a small trough and head for the a bolted anchor on the east side of the summit at a ledge.From here is a 4th class jaunt to the true summit. Be sure to take in the scenery and take pics for your REI catalog cover shot.Descent:Scramble or take a short rappel back to the top of the 3rd pitch. From here there are a few options:1. Take the stunning and free hanging 2 full 60m rope rappel from the nose boulder to the talus below. This is the highlight of the route for many and allows you to also contemplate the insane difficulty of Just Do It. After this double rope rap you can circle back west to the base of the variation or continue up and over the top of the main buttress on the trail.2. Do a short single rope rap back to the cave. Then, take the tyrolean traverse back to the main buttress. (Requires that you fixed a second rope and rapped in from main buttress onto first pitch, trailed rope up to the cave, and know how to actually do a tyrolean (beyond the scope of this description).3. Rap the route. This is not recommended but possible with a single 60m. This requires difficult rope pulling, tensioning to reach anchors, and annoying all the other parties inevitably behind you. Reserve for emergencies.

Pioneer Route

Last pitch variation for Pioneer Route/West Face.  Out of the mouth, start at the first bolt for Panic Point and trend right instead of straight up.  This route ends at the summit rap anchor instead of the nose boulder. 

  Listed as 5.8 in Smith Rock Select and 5.9 in the new Watts book.

Monkey Off My Back

This classic linkup of two of Smith's best finger cracks is rarely done in its entirety, but is more than a worthy objective for those up to the task.  Expect to have to make some 5.10 moves above pretty small gear in soft rock. 

  Pitch 1: The West Face. Either french free up the right hand bolt ladder until you can climb the pinned out tips crack or start via Sheer Trickery to the left at '12c.'  Sheer Trickery is stout.  Once in the crack, start by pulling through some easier moves on slightly suspect gear. As the gear improves, the difficulty increases, culminating in a punchy sequence of finger and tips locks on an immaculate, slabby splitter.  Once above the crux, continue up a shallow off-set with less than stellar rock quality past some bolts.   

  After clipping the second bolt you have a choice:  the Watts guide recommends climbing straight up the bolts to the large ledge (the traditional West Face anchor) and then beginning the second pitch by  climbing up and left on bolts around the arete to access the North Face crack.  This is not your best choice as the bolts are old, the leader will be out of sight on the second pitch, and your rope is running over the arete.  A better alternative is to clip the second bolt after the offset with a long sling and traverse left via thin edging to the arete.  Once established on the arete, you can clip a bolt and are poised to balance up a slightly licheny slab directly below the North Face anchor. 

  35m, 12c (sandy) or 12a A0 

  Pitch 2: If you went left early, simply climb the North Face as is described elsewhere on here.  If you went straight up to the West Face ledge, climb past four older bolts up and left on the arete until you can step around to access the North Face crack.  As has been said, this pitch is long and pumpy.  No move is really that hard, but it feels endless.  In terms of pro, there are two ways to look at this pitch:  You can protect with bomber gear every 10-20' (standard Smith Rock bolt spacing) or you can try and fiddle in thinner/more marginal gear in addition to/between the good placements.  It's easy to burn a lot of energy trying to protect this pitch.   60m, 12a 

  Pitch 3: From the West Face Cave, climb on bolts through very steep terrain out of the cave.  This is the 3rd pitch of Monkey Space.  If the second comes off in the wrong spot, they might not be able to get back to the wall.  Plan accordingly.   25m, 11b 

  Descent:  It's possible to rappel from the two bolt anchor on the right side of the floor of the Mouth (just below the beginning of the 'panic point pitch') back to the base of the route with a single 70m.  The rope pull is hard, but doable and facilitates rapping with a single.  As of late September, it was equipped with two quick links, but could use two more.  If I make it back up there, I'll fix it up.

Northwest Passage (Free)

This prominent tower is one the best known features at Smith rock.  Its asthetic beauty is enhanced by the historical ascents and world famous routes on its clean faces.  Monkey face still holds some of the hardest climbs in the world as well as a plethora of classic trad and sport lines.  It's most famous route, Just Do It 5.14c is still a testpiece route for aspiring hardmen/women.

Other popular pastimes include making the tyrolean traverse from the main buttress to the monkey's mouth.  This airy span is also often used for a spectacular high line walk.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Monkey Face