Traversing onto the white slab midway up and mantling the juggy roof above is probably the crux. Lower and upper sections are not as technical, but demand creative pro placements or none at all.

Fluff Boys in Heat

Lion's Den

Christian Arete

Unknown

The Last Fool A-Hammerin'

Enga's First

Spaghetti Western

Run-It-Out

Never Named It

Belay at top of large boulder pile. Climb easy slab up to bolt, then up steeper, thinner face past another bolt to gain a good ledge. Continue up overhanging face using pockets past another third clip to anchor. The top isn't runout anymore because of an added lower two bolt anchor, but there's ledge fall potential elsewhere on the route.

Distinctive route that climbs pocketed face to the right of rounded arete passing two bolts. Transitions left onto easy slab where some pro can be placed to somewhat protect the steep moves to the third bolt. This upper pocketed face through the third and fourth clips is the crux.

Highly pocketed face sport route, which climbs easier than it appears.

Starts below and south of a significant boulder pile, beginning with a steep, wide crack. About a quarter of the way up, we crossed a face into another parallel, right-arching crack. Lay right on corner of this left crack system, while using numerous face pockets to the two bolt belay/rap anchor.

Begins in steep, shallow dihedral that's punctuated with a good hand crack on the middle right. This lower shallow chute seemed like the crux as the upper left-angling crack and steeper bolted face has many giant pockets and knobs and eventually more crack options.

Face climb crimps and edges above right-angling groove past first clip and bulge. Continue past two horizontal seams and use deeper pockets to clip bolt two and three.

Crux is the lower face near the only bolt/SMC hanger, after that it gets easier in the haphazard crack system. High decking potential if you don't make it to the first sketchy placements.

On the right (north) side of east-facing wall there are some large boulders. Above them, you can climb a short, low-angle seam to large angled ledge. Climb crux face to first clip. We then moved right to place a few cams in a horizontal crack, veered left and up highly pocketed face past two more bolts.

A mainly northwest-facing crag nestled within a convoluted hodgepodge of steep walls, haphazard pinnacles, meandering grooves and perched boulders. None of the routes are more than eighty-five feet high, but about eighty-five percent of them are rated greater than 5.10 in difficulty. Many are mixed sport that can be augmented with pro between clips. For this area, only three of the published routes in '99 Rock Climbing Arizona are pure trad.

**Location**: Centered west of Barks Canyon Wall, southeast of Wild Horse Wall and northeast of The Fortress.

The Central Arizona Bolt Replacement Program (CABRP) is an accredited 501(c)(3) organization. It was created to preserve the safety and integrity of fixed protection throughout central Arizona. Since its creation, the CABRP has replaced hundreds of worn and aged lead bolts and anchors. The fixed anchors used to create most of the sport climbs in the US are made of non-stainless steel. As such, they are subject to corrosion that weakens the anchors holding power. The non-stainless steel bolts throughout central Arizona have been exposed to environmental factors since the first day they were placed. All told, there are approximately 2,755 total routes throughout central Arizona. Working with the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA), CABRP is placing stainless steel glue-in bolts and stainless steel expansion anchors specifically designed for the rigors of our sport. CABRP requests that all climbers establishing new routes use modern, stainless steel equipment. CABRP recognizes that this makes establishing a new route more expensive, but it is also the responsible way to protect future climbers and the precious resource that is our rock walls. The Pond: (All glue-ins) Date Rape 5.7 (Anchors only ½” x 3” stainless w/rap rings) Easy Pool &amp; Dead Pool (shared Anchors only ½” x 3” stainless w/rap rings) Atlantis: (All glue-ins) South Wall Sir Charles - 5.10 Mondo Freako - 5.7 G-String - 5.8 Mickey Mouse - 5.7 Direct Start - 5.11b See you try, see you fail - 5.11b Ali Cat - 5.7 (anchors only) Neptune - 5.10 (pitch 2 anchors and 1st 3 route bolts) KGB - 5.10 Giggling Marlin - 5.9 McDowell's: (Stainless steel 1/2' x 3' bolts, stainless steel hangers) Hawk Boulder Hawk - 5.7 PG13 Energizer - 5.8 Gripple Variation - 5.10R Rosetta Stone Face Value - 5.6 Susan's Stroll - 5.3 (anchors) Brazilian Tenant Farmers - 5.5 Easy Street - 5.1 Arrowhead Arrowhead - 5.8 Hog Heaven Pissed off - 5.8 Tumbling Dice Tumbling Dice - 5.10 Gardeners Wall Hanging Gardens - 5.5 (1st and 2nd pitch anchors) The Phantom – 5.7 Electric Lady Land – 5.10 Phantom of the Opera – 5.10 Parental Guidance – 5.9 Renaissance Direct – 5.7 (1st &amp; 2nd pitches) Battling Fear – 5.10 Fearless Leader – 5.10 (1st &amp; 2nd pitches) Snattlerake Dance – 5.5 Bruisin &amp; Cruisin – 5.5 Lickety Split – 5.7 (1st &amp; 2nd pitches) For Cryin’ out loud – 5.10 LITTLE GRANITE MOUNTAIN: Mogul Wall: Chet’s Arete – 5.8 S&amp;M – 5.9 Moguls – 5.9 Made in the shade – 5.10 Sleeping Cactus: Greg’s &amp; Al’s Excellent Adventure – 5.9 Chasm View – 5.10 The Bickerson’s Dirty Habits – 5.9 Left Face – 5.10 The Loaf: Wimpy – 5.8R Young Monkeys – 5.7 Blow Fly’s last ride – 5.10 “A” Crack – 5.10 Dike Walk – 5.10 Gender Blender – 5.10 Lost Bandana Wall: Dueling Hammers – 5.6 Family Affair – 5.7 Seemingly Useless – 5.7 (anchors) Loosy Loose – 5.11 Lawless &amp; Free – 5.9 Spectrum – 5.7 (anchors) Unknown route – 5.10 Limbo – 5.6 The Cone: Three Dopes on a Rope – 5.4 Sideshow – 5.6 Kate’s Fault – 5.9 Unknown – 5.10 Pasta Slab: Half Measure – 5.4 Full Measure – 5.4 Problem Dog – 5.3 Lower Devils Canyon: Glue in’s The Totem Pole - 5.10c/d Is there an area that is need of new hardware? Copyright © 2022 Central Arizona Bolt Replacement Program - All Rights Reserved.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Myth Wall