This route starts in the next corner to the left of Ripper. It ascends a series of juggy ledges for about sixty unremarkable feet to the anchors.

There is now a fun second pitch (FFA Dave Dick), with good views and rock up above Stigmata. Once at the Stigmata anchors, belay your partner up, and then climb up and left following bolts and a couple of gear placements to the top. 5.8

Stigmata

Mountaineer's Route

Pisa

Pandora's Box

Standing Ovation

Piton Variation

Jack the Ripper

Flayel Bop

The Bulge

Outshined

Orion

Little Dipper

Queasy

Polaris

Rusty Cage

Ripper

Big Dipper

This difficult boulder problem of a route is actually well worth the try, even though it only features about 20' of harder climbing. There used to be a single bolt 15' off the ground, but someone chopped it. For now, TR off of Stigmata, or free solo it.

Climb up a powerful sequence to get to where an old bolt stem is broken off. Then at the small overhang, cut hard left and pull into a right leaning hand crack and follow up to Stigmata anchors. If you go straight up from the bolt, and over the bulge, the route goes at a strenuous 5.12a. The 5.12a part, and the easier trad section of The Bulge are often dirty early in the season. It's worth a few minutes to brush the hard parts before attempting. However, the 5.11c crux is typically clean year-round.

First pitch goes up a dihedral 20' and mantles onto a ledge. walk 15' right and continue up going around the trees and slinging your pro to avoid drag. just above the tree a slab with two bolts will appear. Anchor bolts just behind the tree in the corner.

Second pitch is super short. Follow path of least resistance. When you get to the ledge, traverse right along the airy grassy ledge. belay at the large tree. Either rap from the first pitch or walk off from the second.

Climb the finger crack to the ledge and then head up on jugs and then traverse into the top half of Ripper, bring a #2 BD cam to protect the traverse.

FA Note: I've been eyeing this little finger crack just left of Ripper for a couple years, and finally decided to try it. Grabbed a rack and went for it ground up, onsight. Sent it first try, and managed to dig out a couple pieces of gear. Gear past the crack is thin and tricky to place (placed from the ledge). Top half is runout, but mostly big jugs. So, in short: it's runout, it's dirty, and it's a tad scary. I don't plan to change any of that, as it was done for fun on a whim, and isn't worth more work than that. If anyone else wants to do something with it, go ahead. It is fun climbing for what its worth.

Pandora's Box is reached by first climbing Stigmata to its upper anchors. From there follow a bolt line leading out left through some fun climbing.

This fun climb involves mostly face climbing past several overlaps on the right-hand side of the Old-School wall. Keeping near the bolt line is key to full enjoyment of this route as the gullies/broken rock on each side are dirty and moss-covered.

Climb Ripper up to the ledge, and up and right you will see a clean dihedral with an old piton. Work up to the piton, and clip it, and then do a heel-hook and throw to the good jug. Make sure your partner has you on a pretty tight belay to make sure you don't hit the ledge below.

Climb up Ripper (5.9) and once on the ledge, there is a very short crack to your left. Continue up the crack to the next ledge and place a cam under the large boulder. Stem up and on top of the boulders to start up the steeper wall with good holds and 4 bolts. This route shares top anchors with Orion.

A short corner system that is climbed to a large ledge. Continue up joining Stigmata to its anchors.

Start 10' left of Flayal Bop. Climb obvious face with three bolts. Traverse up and left with mixed gear and bolts for another 60' to a rap anchor at the top of the cliff.

70m rope required!

Fun pumpy face climb on the headwall above the flat ledge belay.  Follow the bolt line over a bulge to the anchor.

Left leaning crack corner to a ledge, then up right to the anchor at the flat ledge belay.

Start on Flayal Bop. After Flayal Bop ends at the ledge, continue up the gully until you reach a bolted rap anchor. Continue about 50' past 4 bolts and one 2" cam.

Climb the same flared chimney as Big Dipper (crux).  At the top of the chimney don’t cut left to finish up on Little Dipper, as you normally would climbing Big Dipper. Continued straight up a short arête (one bolt) until gaining a ledge. From the ledge, follow a right-leaning crack that is the original finish to Standing Ovation. End at a large ledge atop S.O.

Start just left of Flayal Bop. Climb thin crack up to an obvious bolt. Climb up and slightly left to steep jugs. Pull over ledge, and climb up and right past two more bolts to anchor. Pretty dirty right now.

This finger crack follows a dihedral up to the crux bulge and then opens up to chains on your right side. Can be continued directly up Jack The Ripper(5.10b) (crack on left) or "Piton Variation"(10+)(Dihedral on right) to the Orion ledge. You can also step right and walk up the final blocks of Little Dipper to the same anchor.

Just left of

Standing Ovation

is an inconspicuous flared-chimney.  The crux is short and tricky.  A background in chimney and off-width pays dividends.  Grunting seems to help too.  Big Dipper is easy to try on top-rope via the Standing Ovation anchor.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Old School Wall