Yet another sexy crack at the Creek. To find this beauty, head WAY right when you reach the wall. Just before a drop-off, this spitter appears. It is long... It also has a few pods in it and meanders a little. When I climbed the route, there was a plaque at its base (just in case you can't recognize this good crack). This climb has been given an R rating by some because of a blocky section. Most of this short section is solid and will protect. Also, a second bolt is now at the anchor to supplement the FA's creative metal work.

Jolly Rancher begins as tight hands (2 Friend/1Camalot) and slowly widens. The majority of this pitch was cupped hands (wide 3 Friend/tight 3 Camalot). Worry not - cupped hands make for good feet. Towards the top, the size narrows to fingers at the somewhat blocky section and foot holds appear on the last bit.

Jolly Rancher

Excellent quality route through a beautiful roof with a lovely surprise.

Bulletproof Roof

Offwidth into squeeze chimney through a roof to baggy sixes.

Girls Just Wanna Have Guns

Pull off the ground onto small ledges, through a brief chossy pod and up clean thin hands to off-fists in a left-facing corner.

Ramrod

A steep left-facing corner/flake with baggy cups/tight fists. Finishes on a ledge.

Short Round

Damn this route is cool. Pitch 1: some fingers and stemming. 5.10+. There is not a fixed nut here, as described in Stewart-Green's guide. Pitch 2: a burly 5.11 offwidth move leads to killer thin hands that pull over a bulge onto the exposed face. A hanging belay awaits. Pitch 3: Time to get serious. Lots of #2 friends and purple camalots protect this pitch. The curving offset splitter is unrelenting. Either send this pitch, or get Pistol Whipped!

Rap: A double rope rap from the top to a roomy ledge. Another rap to the ground.

Pistol Whipped

Just plain awesome. Hijinx is an apparently overlooked line just left of Dusty Trails. This is possibly due to Bloom's description as "fingers to thin hands in right facing offset". Well, he didnt mention a small roof to pull around as you are changing corners.

Begin from a small shelf at the base with wide fingers (#1 FR and #.5 Cam) to a few ringlocks (#.75 Cam). good hands lead to tight hands (#1 Cams)in the right facing corner (a few good rests), leading up to the roof. Pull around on good hands (#2Cam) into a tight left facing V-Slot corner with tight hands (SlotMachine-esque). I thought this was the crux, although I actually chimneyed/kneebarred the V-Slot for the final 20 feet leading to the anchors past the wide ringlocks(more #75s).

Hijinx in the Desert

This route is dangerous! There is an unavoidable loose block high on the route.

I saw bail gear up high on the route, and got excited. Fun climbing in a corner got me to the bail gear.

I climbed above it, identified some loose rock above, and put in another cam. I laybacked up to the loose section and grabbed a jug. The jug turned into a 1' x 3' block and started pulling away from the wall!

I took the ride and luckily the block didn't come down on my head. I bailed on some cams and would not recommend going up this route until the garbage rock is gone.

Broken Arrow

Left facing corner with a small roof. Bouldery start to fingers and  flared thin hands over bulge/roof.

Maybe a bit of a sandbag but whatever.

Steve's Wimpout

One of the longest and best routes at Pistol Whipped.  This follows the obvious overhanging right facing hand-crack-dihedral 30 feet to the right of Coyne Crack Simulator.  Some moderate liebacking leads to the beautiful hand crack which is the meat of the route.  Most people will find the 5.11+ rating is a little bit generous so give it a go!

Spaghetti Western

Start with thin, bouldery moves to thin hands in an acute flare. Pull a roof, and follow a splitter that starts thin hands and turns to sustained big hands/fists. This classic challenges you on a variety of sizes and techniques, plus it's ultra sustained.

Have a Heart Donna

A varied right-facing dihedral that runs the gamut from squeeze to tips. Starts with hands and fists up two steps separated by ledges, a flared OW/squeeze with slightly crunchy rock is best laybacked around, a bit of fists lead to the very clean upper corner which necks down from hands to a cruxy finish of tips laybacking between pods and a final jug on the arete with a few face moves to the excellent belay ledge. This upper section is very good!

Trigger Finger

A worthwhile route on the far far right side of Pistol Whipped.  Located just to the left, around the corner from Sig Sauer.  Climbs the left facing handcrack up the initial pillar to its top. The crack then heads directly onto the face, staying hands and fists to start, with a crux OW finish.  When I did this a few years ago it was quite sandy, but still fun to do despite the added difficulty. In fact many of the routes at Pistol Whipped and the Creek in general seem to get pretty sandy after the monsoon runoffs. The rating reported is my opinion - not consensus, as it isn't graded in any guide I've seen. Might feel like 11- if particularly dirty, but probably just 10+, possibly less? You tell me. Anchor bolts are at a pod after the OW section, but before the crack kicks past vertical,less than 100' up, but may be more than 80'.

Unnamed 10+ Left of Sig Sauer

Just to the Right of Coyne Crack Simulator, there is a set of right-leaning cracks that starts at the ground, and become a more singular crack that moves to the right at a wide spot (crux, protected by a #4 or 4.5 camalot).  Run up the bottom, place good gear with a long sling in the wide spot, then OW-grovel or Power-layback a few moves around the wide flake, up and right, before coming to rest in the handcrack.  Shoot for the top on 10- moves from there.

This climb is about 90' long.  Using a single 60 Meter rope was no problem, but I am not so sure about a 50M.

Wounded Knee

This is an excellent route located 30 feet to the right of Spaghetti Western that climbs the shallow but obvious right-facing corner and breaks from fingers to hands within the first 30 feet.

Start by climbing up the broken band off the ground and placing gear from the ledge, a yellow TCU and red alien should do!  Work through the fingers and off fingers section and either jam or layback the green camalot section for 15 feet.  The climbing remains physical to the top.

Revenge of the Rock Gods

Dusty Trails to Nowhere is a nice steep hand crack that's fun to do if you're in the neighborhood and is one of the easier offerings on the cliff.  It is about 5 routes left of Coyne Crack Simulator in a right facing dihderal.Some loose rock resides on the ledge where the anchor is located.

Dusty Trails to Nowhere

Climb good fingers (yellow aliens) with no feet to desperate tip locks (tight greens) below the anchor.

Fairy Tales

This aesthetic curving splitter lies on a nice peach colored panel with calcite on the far left-hand side of the cliff. A great variety route that climbs like a tower pitch.

Layback up the left-curving fingers flake with small calcite footholds which quickly opens to tight hands and a decent stretch of slammer hands to the short, flared slot. Inch up the crux slot (still a bit dusty after the removal of a large flake) which is deceptively harder than it looks. Exit the slot over a cups/tight fists bulge and finish up double cracks (fingers/hands) on either side of large blocks to a chimney stance and the anchors.

Rock Out with Your Glock Out

Boulder out the face start to a bolt, layback up an acute flare, and up fingers to a shelf. The clean upper corner starts rattly fingers and opens to tight green camalots, work up this with laybacking/stemming/scumming until it finally hits tight hands where the corner fades out and the crack goes splitter. The final section is tight-hands and hands with wider pods on a steep slab. A great new addition to the wall which throws a lot at you!

Desert Eagle

Not sure about the origin of the route name on this one but I was told that Nathan Martin has never climbed it.  Reguardless this route is a must do if your up for the grade!

The climbing is hard as soon as you leave the ground with a steep tips lieback that I found to be the crux.  Better fingers with some stances allow for easier progress as the crack gradually widens to .75 size.  A few moves through these ringlocks get you to another stance and a bolt just past halfway.  Above the bolt a second crux is encountered which consists of splitter .5 fingers with no feet.  The final 10' to the anchor are chill .5 fingers with feet but you'll probably be pretty pumped so keep your guard up.

Nathan Martin

I feel the need, the need for speed...

Top gun ascends a steep right facing corner that protects with #3, then #2 camalots. Continue with hands trough a wavy V-slot, and finally a shallow corner that starts out #1 and pinches down to fingers. A fun surprise awaits you before getting to the anchors! This is a really fun route, that will clean up even more with a little traffic. Iceman says- go climb it!

Top Gun

An unassuming corner which, like it's neighbor just to the left, climbs better than it looks. The big blocks were chucked, but small friable bits still exist. Unfortunately, the final corner is licheny. This line should clean up if it ever sees some traffic, and could merit another star.

Begin with cups to tight hands in a flare, stemming up the big flake (be ginger as it's not the most solid) to the right. A short OW leads to baggy cups/tight fists over the crux roof and the crack remains that size up a slabbier dihedral to the top.

Street Sweeper

A short, splitter OW on good rock! Start with hands up a leaning 10' pillar to a ledge. Launch in the sustained butterflies above which opens up to a very tight knee below the upper pod. Awkward stacks through the pod and stepped out finish with face holds to the anchor ledge.

Haters' Ball

Starts with awkward tight hands in a tight flare, exit the flare on a cups/fist bulge to a shelf, finish up the crisp cups corner with one final tricky bit at the end. A varied and physical line.

Cocked

Hands to fists to off fists in a tight corner with a small roof leading to a squeeze, another roof and more squeeze.  The crux is most likely the both roofs, but is hand size dependent below it.  Sandy and flared, but a good honest challenge.

Tommy Gun

A nice short splitter line that packs a pump! Starts off with ringlocks (greens) in a flare, to a crack switch left into a hands pod, then charge up the sustained tight hands, right-leaning splitter with a final crescent where it pinches down again. The anchor is hard to clip unfortunately, it may need moved, but as there's no stance no place is great.

This may be soft for the grade? Having climbed plenty of Creek thin hands, I will say this was a battle. Due to it's location, I doubt the grade will be challenged too soon...

Sawed-Off Pump

P1: crux fingers (5.12) and tips lead to a steep but secure off width (5.10+) 100 feet

P2: chimney (5.9) 100 feet

P3: easy climbing to a weird offwidth roof and easy climbing above (5.12) 50 feet

P4: chimney and face to the top (5.8 R) 80 feet

All stances are bolted belays

Soul Assassin

Follow the finger crack in the left-facing corner through a broken bulge and into a left-slanting off-fingers crack that widens before the anchor. This is a beautiful line that features continuous climbing with a few tricky sections.

Yehaw

The brutally thin Sig Sauer extension- Ignore the chains at the top of Sig Sauer, and continue up into 30 more feet of tight fingers/tips to a small pod stance. Place some gear, and make your way left, leaving the crack for a tricky face climbing sequence to reach the sandy ledge with anchors.

The Silencer

This climb is located not too far to the right of the approach trail as you face the cliff.This climb is the left of 2 nice looking cracks you will see as you arrive at the cliff.  This climb starts as fingers/rattly fingers and widens at the top to cupped hands/tight fists (if your hands are small).  The business has a left-facing offset similar to Coyne Crack at Super Crack Buttress - hence the name.  This is a great choice for a first 11- lead in the Creek.  There is a great stance (very small ledge) about 4 feet off the deck from here, you can place a piece or two high and gun it.  The crux is short and the rock quality is good.  It only gets 2 stars because its  a short climb.

Coyne Crack Simulator

Off finger and thin hand cracks don't come easy.  Eventually, the nuances of the ring lock, the meat lock, the toe jam smear and the pain-is-my-friend jam become second nature.  I'm still waiting for that day.  If, like me, your skills are in need of some honing, then this varied and aesthetic route will offer some schooling.

The gear is bomber.  A couple rests can be found along the way.  And, some foot holds on the face provide relief for the toes.  The last few feet to the anchor are the crux, a thin splitter hand crack.

Identify this route by its long thin crack and its left facing slot/overhang near the top.  It is located on the left side of the cliff between Dusty Trails to Nowhere and a short off width flake called Twelve Point Buck.

Rump Roast II

Nice and very short thin hands crack.  Good intro to thin hands jamming.  Would make a great warm up route.

Short and Stupid

A widely varied pitch which climbs better than it looks. It's still rough around the edges, so be mindful of what you're pulling on.

Start in a clean, shallow right-facing dihedral with hard laybacking up off-fingers which open to tight hands. Worm up the varying off-width above which passes a sizable block/pillar (similar to the midsection of Good Times at Way Rambo). Finish on twin thin cracks in a corner.

Gun Fever

A right facing, right leaning, serrated flake immediately left of Rump Roast II. Starts with wide fists, widens to a chimney and exits with good hands.

Wolf's Ear

They sure do!

It starts with a few moves of lieback to thin hands to hands.  And then it gets big.

It'd be easy (relatively) to lay-back the whole thing, but why miss the awesome knee locks?

Cowgirls Like em' Big

Maverick is located to the R of rock out with your block out in a left facing corner. Mostly fists, and wider than fist. Wish it was longer, but the rock started to deteriorate up higher.

Maverick

This is a fun route that offers a little variety to the usual splitter action on the wall.  Start left of Skidmarks behind the left side of a detached pillar.  Chimney between the pillar and the main wall, protecting on fingersized cams in the back.  Squeeze through an opening at the top where the pillar ends, flattening into a large ledge.  Work up the dihedral above utilizing wonderful stems to a two bolt anchor.

Chambered Round

Moderate and surprisingly fun route, great for learning on, especially the first part.

Goes up nice low angle hand and fist crack with a lot of face holds, past a bolt, a fixed pin, and a fixed nut (none of which are actually super necessary) to an anchor on a ledge.

Currently anchor has 2 decent bolts, a pin, and a bunch of webbing. There is another pitch that goes to the rim but it looks wide and not great and I doubt many will do it.

Pinyon Pining

Skidmarks is the next route left from Short and Stupid on the right side of Pistol Whipped Wall. A 50ft. left-facing corner that starts out as thin tip liebacking to a bulging lieback crux (short-lived), to some fun moves up flakes with the occassional hand jam.  The flakes look pretty thin, but they're fairly solid. Just don't place any gear behind them, get it down in the crack. A good warmup or just a fun little pitch to set up for lots of people to do along with Short and Stupid. Slings on the anchor should probably be replaced.

Skidmarks

Off fingers and tight hands up a bulgy left facing flake pass the roof and the angle eases off but still a few fun moves to the chains

Unnamed

P1:  Cowgirls Like 'em Big!  5.10 singles 1-6 camalot.

P2:  "Cowboys Like 'em Skinny"  Flakes and finger cracks off the left side of the ledge.  Several crack switches and fun granite style climbing to a ledge on the arete.    5.11 (40m rap to ground) Purple c3- #1 camalot with 2x 0.3, 4x 0.4, 4x 0.5, and a blue metolius.

P3:  Crisp double cracks above the belay then go left to an interesting roof (careful).  Belay on the ledge above the roof.  5.11.  Blue metolius, 3x 0.3, 3x 0.4, 2x 0.5, 0.75 camalots.

p4:  More double cracks.  They start thin and get bigger.  Stemming to fingers to hands.   Continue to the rim.  5.11.  Yellow ball nut, purple metolius, 000 - #4 camalot, 2x 0.3-0.75.

Rap the route off bolted anchors.

The route is mostly clean but there is some questionable rock on P3.  Please be considerate of others below.

Armed & Dangerous

A short, angling finger crack. Starts with a bit of liebacking, then the crack gradually thins to a tips lock at the chains. Felt harder than the listed grade of 5.11.

A fun pitch worth doing if looking for something a bit different.

Unknown

The route starts 2m over the ground on a boulder. The first part is fingerlocking and liebacking. Where the crack gets thinner, there is a side dyno to a slopey hold on the left. The rest of the route is always like left hand on the left on holds and right hand in the offset finger splitter with some delicate heelhooking.

It is a very fun climb and it is worth to climb even it is short.

The Montana Weed Connection

Scramble up the boulder leaning against the base, cruxy fingers up a hollow flake, tight hands in a flare, splitter hands with a short wide pod, traverse right under the roof block, and finish with more splitter hands.

Another fun .10 for the wall that should clean up nicely with a bit of traffic...the stretch immediately beneath the roof is still sandy. The large roof block looks sketchy from below, but we pried, pushed and pulled and couldn't move it a bit...it seems just fine to climb over, but I'd advise against putting gear behind it.

Hand Cannon

This route is found at the top of the trail when you first arrive at the wall.  Route starts on right side of block (loose) and begins with a short section of offwidth.  Exit the offwidth with fingers in a right facing corner, make an corner switch, and continue up a left facing off-fingers corner (crux) to the anchor.  The new guide book says this route is runout and that you'll need lowe balls.  This description is incorrect, the route is well protected.

Unnamed 5.11 at top of trail

Coyote Essence is a good short 5.11 with all sizes represented.  It is the most obvious right facing dihedral encountered when the approach trail meets the cliff.  It is a few hundred feet to the left of Coyne Crack Simulator.  About ten feet of liebacks take you up a widening crack that opens up to thin, then good hands.  The crack becomes a little varied just before reaching the anchor.

Coyote Essence

Schweizerische Industrie Gesellschaft was an old school Swiss manufacturing firm.  J. P. Sauer & Sohn is a German firm that markets world wide.  Some history behind SiGARMS Sig Sauer handgun.  Oh yeah, and the name given to a sweet finger splitter at the creek.

The far far right section of Pistol Whipped Wall sees less traffic and more sunshine than the main section.  The approach trail and main section of routes lead right to the end of the main section of concentrated routes which end at Short and Stupid (5.8).  From there a long section of undone and rarely done routes goes right about 200 yards until you reach a place to stop and climb.  Three routes lie side by side, with Sig Sauer the center finger splitter.  An unnamed hand to OW crack lies on the left (not a bad line - a little dirty maybe 10+/11-).  A finger to and crack on the right (looks good - you tell me - not in the Bloom guide).  Jolly Rancher, the quality long hand to wider crack is about 10 yards to the right of these three lines.

Now for SS.  Climb the easier start through some pods, and with features to the start of the splitter finger seam.  Cruise it to the anchors.  Now ponder what it might be like to continue past the anchor.  Thirteen at least.

Sig Sauer

From know Pistol Whipped routes, walk 5ish minutes right. Stop 20 ft left of the one large lonely tree. Climb 2 thin cracks. Start with left thin crack on slabby face, transfer to right thin crack. After left crack ends, right Crack occasionally widens, providing some hand jams and rest. The Anchor is just left of the crack, where it goes chimney wide. This climb is unusual for Indian Creek, requiring good feet placement outside the cracks.

The climb was put up in memory of Dee Johnson, a Devil's Lake, WI lady who climbed into her late 70s and inspired many with her broad, wholesome smile and her flowing, effortless movement on the rock.

Dee is Dancing

A varied shallow corner system with a couple of tricky sections and a squeeze exit.

Scatter

The start of the route takes mostly green and red BD cams.  Smaller gear and some interesting stemming is used on the upper section before the chains (crux).

The Creek Freak guidebook mentions a stem box but I found that party to be pretty cruiser.  The layback at the top is pretty hard on small gear.

Description

Protection

Routes in Pistol Whipped