Another great shady sport route on the Llama wall. Climbs like a stiffer version of Entering Relativity, expect similar well featured footholds and mostly great holds. After a solo to the first bolt climb moderate and positive climbing heading towards a large pocket. Here the crux of a finger lock, gastons, and positive crimps stays on ya till you reach positive jugs. After the final crack sequence, which starts off as a left facing lieback into a right facing lieback. You could place an optional piece here but if your used to Smith bolting you won't have trouble here. On a rock quality and asthetics standpoint, I don't think it warrants the 4 star rating in the book (especially compared to Blackened) but American Nirvana offers great climbing

American Nirvana

Start by soloing up a broken ledge system, clipping a bolt just as things start to get steep again. Fun climbing with some rests leads to the second to last bolt where funky crux guards the chains. During the lower section this route seems to share some terrain with American Nirvana but the crux is completely independent.

Cloud Nine

The route has three distinct sections: 

  Like the other routes on this wall, start by scrambling 15 feet to the top of the choss ledge. 

  From here the rock and climbing improve significantly. The crux involves pulling sometimes-small pockets through a gentle prow. 

  After finishing the crux transition into the upper headwall/dihedral for good old fashioned fun on steeper rock and big holds.

Olive

This short route packs a punch with short bouldery cruxes that vary in style on excellent quality rock. Start up the slab to the 2nd bolt (5.9) and work into the first crux. Find out whether you want to dyno or look for a static sequence to get to a giant jug. Traverse out off the jug into the overhanging into a stemming crux and continue to work out left past the roof. Once established above the roof, the climbing eases off, but there is still one last move to establish yourself above all the hard climbing, I fell here 5 times on point. I also watched professional climbers fall all over this climb and go onsight Rude Boys (5.13b R).

 ...So expect a hard route for the grade!! Damn old school sandbaggers!

Livin Large

A fun and extremely well protected climb on excellent rock. 

  Start out on steep ground just right of Condor. A low bolt is followed by some awkward moves up to and over a bulge. After the bulge traverse right following a finger crack with thin feet. Eventually step back left onto the face and finish on steep pockets in the clean white face. 

Blackened

Start on Llama Enlightenment clipping the first 8 bolts or so before continuing up the slightly dirty right facing corner to the anchors at the top.

When Llamas Need Protection

This route is worth doing and is well protected. 

  Start up overhanging jugs to vertical ground with some perplexing bulges. Closely spaced bolts. Eventually reach the base of a corner system and move right following the bolts (crux) and belay at a bolt anchor.  

  A second pitch continues up the lower angled slab above, going at 5.5.

Llama Enlightenment

Definitely one of the best 5.10 aretes at Smith.  The rock's slightly friable, but really not that bad and the moves and position are spectacular.  Can be linked with Eye of the Beholder with a 70m.

Eye of the Beholder Finish

Are the Aggro Linkups too hard? Are the Dihedrals too tall? Then this one might be for you. Start by climbing the first three bolts and crux of 100% Beef. Instead of going left to the no hands rest on Beef, cut right and climb the entire roof crux and upper half of Livin Large.

Llama Llinkup

Varying sized pockets dot a red streak up the face to a particularly grim blank section coming out of a concave feature.  The key crimp came tumbling down, along with a dinner plate sized chunk of rock, rendering the already stout crux even harder.  Belayer may wish to wear a helmet for this one, and or belay from further down the hill.

Street Candy

Start off on a beautiful and solid lichen covered slab that leads to a juggy dihedral. Once you leave the dihedral, begin the crux which makes you climb above your bolt on 5.10 moves. A great lead for people beginning to lead 5.10. Falls are save and moves a obvious once past the slab.

Metal Smith

This route starts bouldery and overhanging. After a couple bolts of easier climbing you end up on an arete just left of Llama Enlightment. After pulling over a small overhang continue up and left through more technical climbing and to the final moves on pockets. Sharp rock. Sustained. This route shares a few holds with both Llama Enlightment and Entering Relativity. 

Junkshow

If you stay to the right of Blackened, then you're climbing "Lightly Toasted," a 5.11b. If you stay to the left on the face, then you're on Blackened, the 5.11d... hence the contrivance, since the same boltline is used to protect both routes. 

  Nervous climbers often refuse to leave the security of the crack, clipping bolts to the left on Blackened while bypassing the hardest moves.

Lightly Toasted

Start on far right, climb the easy shallow alcove to the large black bulge and the crux moves.  Finish up easy terrain.  Basically it's a V7 on a 5.7 route

Llama Sutra

Pretty average short sport route on gritty rock. Stays fairly shady and short enough to set up a top rope on and get some laps.

Wannabe Llamas

This is a somewhat popular single pitch, but is only the start of the four pitch route The Struggle Within. 

  A mix of 5.9 to 5.10 stemming, laybacking, edging, etc. leads to a crux traverse to the left. Sequential enough that I had to downclimb out of my dead-end and go back up to do it right. Don't tire yourself out, you have a long way to go. Make sure to traverse to the left two bolts before the anchor that sits straight up. The climbing is easy by the time you can clip the last bolt.

The Struggle Within (Start)

A ridiculously well bolted pitch with generally great holds and fun movement. You start down low in a short but hard dihedral with three bolts in the first 12 or so feet of climbing. 

  After that, romp up the rest of this extremely long route on great holds with good feet, carefully managing your body position to avoid getting pumped. Don't let your guard down though, there are one or two moves on this that are a little awkward despite the generally high quality climbing. 

  There are a lot of bolts on this one, so you wind up being able to backclean two or three draws pretty easily. There is one bolt near the top when you hit the big layback flake that is pretty far off route to the right. The falls are safe and the climbing secure so I skipped it. You're risking a fairly big whip but it seems less scary than traversing to the bolt. 

  Good first 11a for a gym climber well versed in big holds on slightly overhanging terrain. Not terribly technically difficult, mostly a fitness check, and definitely onsightable.

Entering Relativity

Great route and great rock.  Intricate climbing down low leads to a challenging, lieback bulge at midheight.  The feet are wicked through the crux! More great climbing leads to a fun finish.

Eye of the Beholder

Start as for Struggle Within, and begin clipping the right hand bolts after the first bolt.  After gaining a good rest, climb the crux sequence revolving around an undercling feature that turns into a crack. Above this multiple rests split 2 more hard sequences.

Harvester of Sorrow

This is a decent (gets 2 out of 4 stars in Watts' guidebook) traditional route in a sea of new bolted lines.  As such, I don't think it sees much traffic.  Though there is some loose rock on it, the hard climbing is all done on solid stone and with good pro. 

  Climb the right hand of two cracks (sharp finger locks & likely the crux of route) to roof with a nice hand crack through it.  Pull the roof and move up onto a ledge system (1 old bolt).  Scramble 10 feet up and follow the left side squeeze chimney (watch the teetering 300-lb block at base of chimney) formed by a huge inverted spire of rock (fixed nut deep inside).  Belay from 2 bolts.

Condor

Another bouldery line complements Living Large just to the left. This route consist of more power and compression style crux's as to where Living Large works power and opposition. 

  Although this route has great quality rock, the moves are hard enough to keep most away. Even the locals shy away from this lines as well as Living Large.

100% Beef

This is the wall just to the right of Phoenix Buttress. Just at the base of Phoenix (the route) you'll see a switchback leading off in the direction of Asterix Pass. Follow it a ways and you'll see a number of cool, overhung routes on your left on pebbled, highly featured rock.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in (2) Llama Wall