This was my first V4 and I still love doing it every time I visit the warm up cave.  Thankfully it feels a bit easier now than that first time! 

  Start on the obvious left facing flake in the center of the wall.  Make some fun moves up the flake to two crimps then a tougher move to the sidepull (or gaston) and one more tricky move to the top. 

  And avoid good holds out right for full value. 

Beta* - If you are having trouble getting the sidepull, consider getting clever with the flake and your right heel (worked for me at least).

Neil's Lunge

Basically a direct sit start to Neil's Lunge.  Start matched in obvious slot under the Neil's flake.  Make two hard moves to the flake and finish up Neil's.  Some guidebooks have this listed as V9 but it is a solid V8.

Clutch

Same beginning sequence as  for Clutch Dimension, finish on Jacked Bagel.   -Start on the jug for Clutch, and then move left into the big underclings, from here move up into the axehead hold and finish Jacked Bagel. Another linkup.

Grotesque Bagel

Start matched on a crimp that I guess looks like an axe head (doesn't to me) about 6 feet up.  Pull off the ground and use a high left foot to make a hard move up to two crimps in a slot.  A small but helpful intermediate softens the precision needed for this move.  Finish with one more move to the lip and then top out. 

  I've always seen this listed as v2, but it is hard as heck for a 2 imo.  The bigger your fingers, the harder the move since the slot is rather tiny despite all the chalk there.

New Direction

Start as for Rump to Jump, but when you get to the second undercling fin move left to the axehead hold of New Direction and finish up that problem.

New Dimension

The ultra-mega link up traverse.  Start on Cave Roof underclings. Move right through the crimps of Cave Overhang to the undercling flakes. Keep moving right to the crimp and flake as for Rump to Jump, but keep moving right rather than climbing up.  At the start holds of the Cave Warmup, keep moving right but starting trending upwards (this is the crux). Finish up into good horizontal crack and an easy topout.

Shoot to Kill

Start sitting at the Clutch starting hold.  Fire left hand to first undercling flake, then move left to the Axehead and finish up as for New Dimension.  Yet another linkup...

Clutch Dimension

Sit/Squat/Stand start in the large obvious crack, large foot options all around, pull on and layback your way up the positive holds in the(*dirty*) crack. Topout on jugs at the top of the crack.

Warm Up Crack

Same beginning sequence as for Ab Master, but instead of going up into the good crimps, go right and finish Jacked Bagel. Probably not as good as Fresh Bagel, but maybe a bit easier.

Sadist

Stand start on two sidepull crimps about 6' or so to the right of the sloper on Shoot to Maim, just before the flat ground at the base of the boulder turns into the small hill leading up to Mack's. Pull on with feet low and to the right, move left into two amazing incut crimps.  Bring the feet up and make a move up to the crimp rail directly above the huge jug rail (I avoided the jug for a hand, it would probably be a grade or so easier using it). From that rail, move up and left to top out the same way as Shoot to Maim. 

Why are we not funding this?

Sit start as for ‘Cave Roof’ on a heavily-chalked undercling in the low roof at the far left end of the cave. Make a move out left to a big sidepull flake on the arete (crux), then move straight up on good jugs and top out.

Roof Arete

Start on the underclings on the left side of the warm up cave as for Full Throttle. Traverse right through the crimpy ribs on the low roof and establish on the "axe head" hold in the middle of the face as for Full Throttle. Finish through the sharp crimps on Jacked Bagel, avoiding the letterbox slots for Full Throttle. 

  Although it initially looks like a lame eliminate, the sequence is surprisingly awesome. 

  The crux is sticking the taxing moves of Jacked Bagel after pulling through the pumpy traverse at the beginning of the problem.

Fresh Bagel

Good overhanging warm up on the right side of the warm up cave.  Start on some reasonably good sidepulls/huecos and then make your way up with some long moves to start.  Starting moves are probably the toughest but still a decent warm up for the other stuff at the wall.

Cave Warm Up

Start sitting down low, right of the bulge for cave roof on a right facing crimp rail.  Make your way up and left to join up with cave roof.  This climb will often seep after a good rain but has some fun gastons, pretty much the opposite movement of cave roof.

Cave Overhang

Start on Cave Roof underclings.  Move right through the crimps of Cave Overhang to the undercling flakes.  Finish up New Dimension.  Good linkup.

Full Throttle

Start sitting/squatting on jugs and move into big undercling (or you can just start on the undercling).  Make a long move to a good sidepull out right.  Body tension will see you through the next move and then traverse up and left on good holds to the top out.

Cave Roof

Start on the axehead hold as for New Direction.  Move up and right to a pinch and then a small crimp.  The two good holds for New Direction are off-route.  Make a foot/hand match on the axehead and then hit the jugs on top.  Eliminate but a good problem.

Jacked Bagel

Start on Cave Roof underclings. Move right through the crimps of Cave Overhang to the undercling flakes. Finish up Rump to Jump. Good linkup. 

Gassed Off

One of the many link ups at the warm up cave.  Start on Cave Roof and make the crux moves to establish yourself on the holds above the bulge.  Then make a tough gaston right to the axe head hold of New Direction.  Strenuously match this hold and finish on New Direction (or go up and right as for Jacked Bagel for a harder finish).  Your obliques may be sore after a few tries on this. 

  I am not quite sure that this is the correct name but this is according to the latest edition of New England Bouldering.  It is listed as v7 but v5+ or v6- feels more accurate to me since it feels like a link of two v3s via a v4 gaston and match.

Ab Master

The end of Shoot to Kill.  Start at the start holds of the Cave Warmup, move right but starting trending upwards (this is the crux). Finish up into good horizontal crack and an easy topout. 

Shoot to Maim

Soft Clutch is a variation on Clutch. Instead of going straight up off the start jug to the split finger right hand crimp and the small, broken crimp next to it, use the large, heavily chalked undercling up and to the left, which is off route for clutch, before moving back right and finishing on Neil's Lunge. 

  Using this flake makes the problem significantly easier, particularly for the tall.

Soft Clutch

The indirect sit start to Neil's Lunge. 

  Start on ok crimps down low and to the right of cave overhang.  Make your way up and right on cool looking undercling flakes and make the difficult transition into the left facing flake of neil's lunge.  Finish up on Neil's of course.

Rump to Jump

Starting on the big, low, chalky jug in the middle of the wall (as for clutch), move up and left through the big holds under the roof before cranking a hard double gaston crux move to get into the start holds of cave overhang. Finish that problem. The axe head hold is off for this problem, though using it would make for an interesting variation.

Gassed On

If you're familiar with New Dimension and Jacked Bagel, sit start as for new dimension, climb to the axe head, and do Jacked Bagel from there. 

  If not, start sitting under the central bulge with the two good crimps (same start as new dimension). Climb up to the large, good, curved hold in the middle of the face, and then finish by going right to the pinch and small crimp. The good slots directly up from the large curved curved hold are off route for this eliminate.

Jacked Bagel (sit)

Good number of problems with some easy, some moderates, and some hard climbs. 

  The warm ups, Neil's lunge, and some of the harder low starts are a lot of  fun.  There is even a V11 traverse that starts low left and moves through the entire wall.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Warm Up Cave