A great route on great rock. A number of equally engaging sequences work well on this one, but all require confident footwork and some pump management. Often an ego bruiser and tricky to onsight, but ultimately not the hardest .10d at Eagles.

Somewhere in Middle America

This is one of the routes at Eagles that is rarely completely dry, but it is often 'dry enough'. With the exception of some of the left hand holds (mostly near the bottom), the rest of the route is usually dry. The majority of this route offers great variety of interesting movement that will have you dancing your way up the rock. The last few moves to the chains require commitment, but the movement here is brilliant.

Crane Dance

Maybe the longest single pitch at eagle's rest. Pulls through the highest roof at the skyline on amazing jugs. Climb either of the two 5.9 starts to the low ledge at 30ft with a small dead tree on it's left. Remains sustained on a slight overhang for a good 75 feet from here, with an occasional good hold thrown in here or there. Feels relatively cruxless but demands some endurance and a good read of the features. Passes left of the midway roof, and remains technical as the angle eases. Get a reprieve before the final roof, and save one longer alpine draw for the bolt below the roof. Soak in the view and do big moves to the apex of the whole wall. Rock quality is significantly better than RUD. Kindof epic. The rope will weigh a ton at the top. Again, without the full chalk markdown or hanging draws this will feel significantly harder.Important to avoid the sun for this one. Doesn't get much tree shade up there.

Launch Escape System

Powerful crux on small holds, and plenty of chances to fall up top. Fantastic rock quality. Requires good footwork and crimp strength. This is an Eagles classic and a benchmark for the grade. Best climbed straight up the face. Easy to access top anchors for hanging draws or TR by climbing Somewhere in Middle America or Requiem for a Dream.

Livin' a Dream

A short and awkward line, but serves as a warmup for its harder neighbors. Ends on a large ledge with the anchor set back quite a bit, so use an extended anchor if setting up a TR. The ledge makes lowering less than ideal for your rope, so consider rapping off to save rope wear.

Billy Lean is Not My Lover

This is a tall line of sloper jugs, most of which face the wrong way. The highly featured rock below the roof is the worst of the three on this wall. It may be worth it for the upper headwall, with impressive (and solid) water sculpted features. Significantly harder if you're hanging draws."Rapid Uncontrolled Dissasembly" is a polite term for an explosion in the engineering world. The bail anchor above the roof was added to assist in getting from any of these routes with a rope shorter than 70m. If you stop here you're just doing the worst part of the route, "premature dissasembly", but knock yourself out.

Rapid Uncontrolled Dissasembly

A fun, long adventure up the Dream Wall. An adventurous lower section leads to a steeper encounter at the top. Longer runners and/or skipping clips helpful to reduce rope drag. Take advantage of rests to leave enough in the tank for the top.

Requiem for a Dream

This tall white and orange streak, roof, and headwall was the first thing that caught my attention at Eagle's Rest.Begin up easy terrain, taking care scrambling to the first bolt up the grassy corner. Gradually ramps up in steepness and difficulty, gaining the waterworked white streak. The usual choss of Eagle's is naturally glued together here by a coating of precipitated minerals: feels almost like limestone for a bit. Intricate and varied throughout. Good, tricky climbing on quality rock, especially on the exposed upper headwall, where you'll have to manage pump, routefind creatively, and use your feet well for crux after crux, all the way to the chains.Knot the end of a 70m rope, or use an 80m.

The Eagle has Landed

Hard to read with crux between the 1st and 2nd bolts. Distinctive crux makes for a tricky onsight, but feels fair for the grade once the beta is figured out. Following the low crux, the climb continues up with fun and sustained 5.10- climbing to the anchors. Parts of the route can stay wet for some time after substantial rain. The second pitch is currently a closed project.

Wet Dreams

There is an anchor just above the midway roof on Rapid Uncontrolled Disassembly, placed to help people get off the longer routes with shorter ropes. If you climb to here you've made it through the worst rock, but all the more worthwhile climbing is above.

Premature Dissasembly

Tricky and pumpy with mostly positive holds. The route wanders a bit, so it can be tough to read onsight. This was the first route redpointed at the crag. The second pitch is currently a closed project.

Yap Dog Ego

Large grey wall with arching roof halfway up the right side.

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Routes in (C) Dream Wall