This is the best line in the area. It is characterized by powerful. technical compression on steep slopers and edges. Start on the lowest decent sideull for your left hand, and your right hand wrapped around the arete, on the smooth, polished, butt cheek-like hold. You'll have a great left foot, and a poor right foot to start.

Down low, you'll find an awesome techy kneebar, some sequential moves, a cool thumb-intensive pinch, and a classic tensiony transition move to a good crimp that allows you to get to the sloper above.

Although the bottom is challenging, you may find more trouble getting through the topout, which involves a heinous power-mantel on the aforementioned sloper, using difficult to see and not very good feet, and a thrutch to a decent crimp way up the left. Tougher because the bottom is a bit tiring. I think this thrutch could be considered a detractor by some, but I thought it was a nice capstone to the difficulty of the boulder- it really doesn't give up until you are standing on the slab above.

It is also possible to do the topout by avoiding the crux finish move, and heading right from the last big sloper. I've heard that this way is easier, maybe v8-ish. One bummer here is that the huge reach out left does seem to be height-dependent.

The Lion's Den

Buried Alive

Dirty Dancing

The Office Chair

Unearthed

Slam Dunk

Humoristic

Lazarette

Slam Dunk Low

A tall, clean, blank looking slab of perfect rock. Gingerly, although boldly step from one tiny feature to the next, with all that hip stabilizer slab-action happening, until you reach the big holds at the 12 foot mark. At this point, it turns <5.10: a cruise to the top.

Steep edges and powerful moves, with awesome trick beta that makes it much easier. Climb from low left in the overhang, starting with the lowest holds you can - a good left edge, and slightly not as good right edge, about four feet apart. Power to the good hold right, and finesse your way into the set up for the big throw to the rounded crimp. From there, do super cool moves to the finish, and at the 12 foot mark, make your way over the rounded hump to top out.

Please see comment from first ascentionist below for perspective.

Start crouched with a flat triangle hold and a small sloper. Climb up and right on edges to a surprisingly involved top-out

Establish on the shelf at the 7' level, swoop straight up to a small, positive crimp just under the lip, mantle.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Washout