Fathom climbs a huge right leaning dihedral, right in the middle of Laurel Knob, to what some have called the ultimate water groove.

Pitches 1 - 5(ish) climb along the leaning dihedral sometimes using the crack and sometimes using the face. Along the way there are a couple of bolted anchors and a couple of gear anchors. I have heard some say the climbing is no more than 5.6, I have heard others call it 5.9. I think it depends on the line you take. And depending on the line you take you may find little gear. Note: when I climbed this route, April 2006, we came up about 15 feet short of the anchors located at the start of the water groove pitch, so we did some simul-climbing.

The money pitch climbs up through the water groove with bolts for protection. I heard a story about the belay for this pitch...something about a position belay...before the bolts were updated.

From here, the easiest thing to do is rap. Several double rope rappels straight down will lead you to the ground. There are other options as well. One is heading up and right. The other is, I believe, the Hone Ranger finish which goes straight up. I haven't done either of those finishes.

Fathom

This route is a pretty good route that follows weaknesses up the wall right of defective sonar that was put up in hopes of a free route but that may or may not be the case.

P1: climb the fathom corner to the ledge 40' up. Step up and left on steep face to a roof. pull the 5.9 roof and continue up the face past a black tricam and 3 bolts to anchor (5.11a)

P2: Climb up past 2 bolts then left then up then left to get gear then up and right to another bolt continue up to belay at two #3 camalots (5.11b)

P3: Traverse the horizontal out right till it gets steep and pumpy near the end. belay at a tiny stance. (5.11a to old anchor. 5.11c? to new one?)

P4: follow the line of 9 bolts and 4 bathooks out right past some dikes and large crystals mixed free and aid to big ledge (5.9 A1 or 5.13???????)

P5: Climb ramp up and right then step left onto the steep face following bolts past a short crimpy crux section then up an awesome shallow steep water groove (5.11a A0 or 5.12d?)

P6: Climb the incredible steep, deep, and wide to anchors. Look for large hybrid aliens before the first bolt and a key red tricam between the 2nd and 3rd bolts (5.10aR)

P7: Continue up the left hand groove past 2 bolts to ledge, then continue up the mossy groove to a 2 bolt anchor (5.9)

Descent: from top of P4 rap 200 ft. to slab of fathom. Then downclimb or double rope rap off single spinner 3/8" wedge bolt that won't tighten down :(

I've been working on this from January to June 2010. P1, P2, P6, P7 have been freed. P3 has been redpointed to the previous anchor location 8' left of the current one. P5 will go free at 12d-ish. I have done all the moves up to the last 2 bolts on P4 free but this last 15' section is pretty blank. P4 was originally aided with 4 bathook holes and one natural hook. I tried using more natural hooks but stopped when I kept breaking free climbing holds. for people who repeat the route on aid the only natural hook move is on large hold after the first bolt after the big dike on P4. P5 was done with some aid but no bathooks and mostly free (mandatory 5.11a free climbing)

P1 and P2 are a little heads up. P6 has seriously runout 5.8 or 5.9 climbing.

Unfathomable

Start on a small tree island about 50' right of the 1st pitch belay bolts of Manatee Fluid.

P-3 info updated 5/28/14

P-1: Climb pitch one of "Manatee" or traverse into base via same approach as for "Laruels Girdle".

P-2: Climb the thin face just left of the groove past three bolts and some gear (including #3 Camalot) to a natural belay in a right-facing corner at about 200'.

P-3: Climb the short corner above the belay and onto some flakes.  Move up and right to the groove and a bolt. Continue up past another bolt about 10' above, then up the groove passing one more bolt up higher (apparently a new line coming in from the right -- looks cool). From here easier grooving leads to a gear belay in the groove.

Rap from Manatee, or from anchor bolts about 60' up the easy groove to the right.

Better late than never

Cotton Pony

This is the arete immediately left of Annie get your guns on the wild west wall in Dillard Canyon.

Start with a sketchy overhanging tips lieback boulder problem (I slung a small nearby tree for "pro") to reach jug with a strenuous cam placement in a horizontal (something like a .4 camalot or a .5 camalot - I used a yellow-red hybrid alien) Continue up face just left of arete past 3 bolts to right facing flakes (.75 camalot & .5 camalot) Continue up cool face to 2 bolt ring anchor at top past one more bolt

Mechanical Bull

The name is a reference to the random wandering nature of the more heavily bolted line in which it crosses...  not to mention the creative "bong" left behind at the base of the route.  This pitch is a great way to get to "OK Corral", which is a great pitch in itself.  Or you can just climb this into the end of "Wild Wild West" and either climb to the top, or rap from a single bolt anchor.

Fun climbing on excellent rock lead past 4 bolts and into a right trending crack system.  Follow this to the end and move across the face and over to the cool left facing dihedral (this was already a variation of WWW).  Take this to the 2 bolt anchor at the base of "OK Corral".

Puff The Magic Dragon

P1: First pitch of Groover. 5.7, 120'

P2: Climb left and up a shallow water groove/track on thin features, over bolts, to a bolted belay. 5.9, 180'

P2: Climb straight up water groove past three bolts and no additional pro. 5.7, 120'

P3: Move left off the belay, passing a couple bolts into Arrested Development's groove, up this, past gear, to anchors out right. 5.9, 120'

P4: Slab right into the continuation of the same water groove from P2. Climb directly to the top passing four bolts and as many small gear placements to a bolted belay 5.8-, 200'

Pirate's Cove

Just up the trail from Hypocrite's Corner on the LK proper side. Start left of Pine

60M 5.11

Walkin' Da Plank

This is a fun and varied route:  slab, aid with mandatory free, and water groove.  Two ring anchors at each belay.

P1 (5.9) 160' Climb up and right passing bolts and natural protection. You will find a bit of a runout to the first bolt on the easy slab, some natural gear out right, and then a couple bolts by the crux moves reaching the belay.

P2 (5.10) 185' Climb left off of the belay via somewhat of a mantle move (if my memory serves me correctly), then straight up passing bolts.  When the bolts run out you will find natural protection.  Stay to the left of the mossy ledge, find a cam (#3 C4) above the mossy area, and pull the few moves up to the anchor and ledge.

P3 (5.9) 100' Follow the crack to its top, step up onto the slab, then climb up and right passing protection bolts to the anchor beneath the awesome next pitch.

P4 (5.11 A2)  Free & aid your way up this imposing pitch.  The pitch has been led at 5.11 C2. Bolts, rivets, natural protection.  I found a large DMM offset nut to be essential in two places aiding over the bulge (back clean it after you clip a bolt above) The hard mandatory free climbing is just a bit of stemming as seen in the picture. Above that you will find some steep jugs, then a few more moves of Aid to reach the exit mantle.  This is the most awesome mantle I have had to perform at Laurel.  If it were a boulder problem, Id say maybe V4?

P5 (5.10 A0) Stem up to & A0 from a bolt. Climb the groove past bolts and natural protection.  This pitch really is fun, the A0 move is no gimme, even with the bolt, it is quite tricky and fun to stand up into the scoop. The rest of the pitch is awesome LK grooving in a phenomenal position on the head-wall.

P6 (5.10) 55' Climb the groove past bolts.

P7 (5.10) Continue up the groove passing bolts and natural protection.

Rap the route

Fathom Escape Hatch

this route seems to be missing from Mountain Project  - - it goes up and right past a moss pad to the right of Central Pillar (the next groove over)

Wild Turkeys

p1 Angle in from Forbidden Fruit.

p2 Climb up corner, traverse right into second pitch of Defective Sonar.

Stellar Sonar

This is a variation to Jeep Gaskin's original line.

NOV. 2014: Edited original route submittal to geehaw with Mike's excellent topo and beta below.

P1: Climb a crack/weakness to the tree. Belay. 120' 5.6

P2: Traverse right to climbable rock, trending back left as you face climb up to gain the crack that defines most of this awesome route. Follow the crack to one of two good spots for a belay - large scoops in the rock. NOTE: Stretch it here so you have enough rope for P3. 200' 5.6

P3: Continue along the prominent crack with good gear until it runs out. Traverse up and right over a thin, slabby bulge to a large sloping ledge. Soem consider the last moves to the ledge the crux of the route. 180' 5.7+

P4: Climb out and up the crack to #3 and #4 Camalot placements. Sling with a long runner (left rope). Lower/down-climb  30' and traverse right along a slim quartz dike .... Work into the SECOND water groove... which is very positive if dry. Climb the water groove 80'over two new bolts (2014) until you reach nice-sized solution pockets and a weakness above. Belay out of the crack above the solution pockets on as many 0 thru 3 MCs/TCUs as you can carry. There's also a pod for a #2 Camalot above the smaller gear. 130ish' of travel, maybe 90' of vertical gain.  5.9 (No longer PG13/R!)

P5: Water groove has turned into a crack...follow this up to a bolted belay at the top of Forbidden Fruit. 120' 5.7

P6 and beyond.....look at Mike's topo below.

Forbidden Fruit Rappel

(borrowed from Saxfiend's Gaskin Finish description). The double-rope rappel off Groover is complex enough to get a separate description. Missing some rap stations is easy and can have serious consequences; knot your rope ends.

Rap 1 - from the anchors at the tree island, rap down and pendulum way left to the bolted anchors for P7 of Forbidden Fruit (FF). This is also the P5 belay for the Groover Fischesser finish. 140'

Rap 2 - rap down the groove to the P6 anchors for FF. 170'

Rap 3 - continue down the groove to the P5 anchors for FF. 130'

Rap 4 - continue down FF past the P4 belay bolts (no rap rings) and past a prominent roof. Not far below these bolts and off to the left are the P3 anchors for FF that will be your next rap station. 180'

Rap 5 - trend left as you rap down to find the FF P2 anchors a good ways out to the left, maybe 60', of the plumb line; be careful not to pendulum back right.  120'

Rap 6 - finish the descent with a rap straight to the ground. 140'

Groover Variation (Fischesser Finish)

This is a fun and high quality route.  The first pitch features some very thin but positive crystal climbing and is quite unique to Laurel.  It can be rappelled with a single 60 meter rope.  The rest of the route follows an amazing 500+' groove to the top.

P-1 Stick clip first bolt.  Climb the quartz dike feature (5.12?) and water streak past 10 bolts and a 5.11 crescendo to gain the belay in a bowl.

P-2 Climb the obvious groove/streak past 8 bolts and gear to a 2 bolt anchor at 185'.  Nana's Bananas enters and exits the groove at bolt # 6.  5.10

P-3 Climb the short corner past gear to the cool groove with 4 bolts.  Easier climbing above 4th bolt leads to a couple pieces of gear and then the large mossy ledge at 200'.  Belay on #3 and #4 camelot. Note: It is possible (and might be easier) to stop and belay short on Nana's Bananas bolts out right before the ledge to avoid bringing the bigger cams.  5.9+

P-4 Pull the bulge past 1 bolt, using a hollow but seemingly solid enough flake.  Easy climbing takes you to the top.   Move right to anchors for Nana's/Girdle Traverse.  5/.10-

Rap Nana's Bananas.

NOTE: It is possible to start on "Nana's Bananas" and finish on "Nana Gets Her Groove On" by linking P-2 (the anchors have been moved down to allow the rope to reach).  Nana's is the easiest way to get into the groove, as opposed to the harder of Nana gets her groove on.

Nanna Gets Her Groove On

This route starts out following the face 1.5 grooves left of manatee fluid and ends finishing up the very deep and nearly always wet groove 2 grooves left of manatee fluid (which was later climbed as get it while it's hot). The route is easy to do when this groove is wet (as was done on the FA) because it is so deep and the face dries very fast after rain. The photo topo may be completely wrong, so kind of pick your own route to the p2 anchor based on gear and features.

Groovin' in the name of the Laurel

P1: Climb the watergroove and features to the right and left over several bolts to anchors.

P2: Up and left to the gigantic plank feature, pull this through the notch, then slab up into the trees stopping to belay/rap whenever you feel like it once you get into the vegetation.

Black Flag

This is the first new route to be legally completed since the acquisition of LK by the CCC, hence the name. It roughly follows an old incomplete line for the first 1 1/2 pitches, dubbed "Green Eggs and Ham" (Jerry Roberts and company). It also merges into the illegally bolted and subsequently chopped (not by us) route "Mirage" for about 80' on pitches 3-4.

Of special note: This route dries very quickly and is a good choice after a rain, even if the other grooves are waterfalls. The first pitches are friction slab, and avoid the potentially wet grooves. By the time that you make it to the grooves up higher, the sun has already had enough time to dry the wall off.

Start on the short right facing flake that is located between "Honeranger" and "Oasis".

P-1 Follow this to a line of 5 bolts, interspersed with a couple of gear placements, to a 2 bolt anchor (5.10+ 100').

Note: the fixed rp was removed and replaced with a bolt (with re-spacing) on 1/14/2014.

P-2 Step out right and follow the bolts up and leftward, then back up and right to the 2 bolt anchor (5.10 180').

P-3 Climb past 2 bolts up and rightward to the dark and more featured water streak. Get some thin gear (small RP and hybrid alien) and move up to another bolt. Continue up past more gear to a leftward traverse that leads to a 2 bolt anchor (5.9 130').

P-4 The Phantom-bolts pitch! (ask Wayne R where the name comes from...) Move right up the ramp and climb up past 2 bolts and then gear to a small sloping ledge at a bush. Get a good rest here, and then fire the sustained shallow watergroove above past 7 more bolts to a 2 bolt anchor at a great ledge (5.10++/11a 180').

P-5 It is best to step up (via aiding off of anchor) to clip the first bolt before stepping back down and freeing the crux. Climb the very thin crux to a small flare (protects with smallest hybrid alien/TCU or the perfectly placed nut), and climb past another bolt and some gear to a funky transition into the watergroove above. Continue past 2 more bolts and possibly some hybrid friends to a 2 bolt anchor (solid 5.11, 150').

Either continue up and slightly right into the last 2 pitches of "Fathom", or rappel off.

For anyone interested in a historical note regarding the controversy: The CCC, not the FA party, did the chopping of the Mirage bolts but somehow missed the two located at the beginning of the 4th pitch. We re-located the first one down a couple feet to provide better spacing as they were originally only about 3' apart, but left the second one where it was.

Permission Granite

p1 straight up 10' to some gear then angle left toward a bolt two more bolts leads to a two bolt anchor. 5.10

P2 straight up clip bolt continue to the next two bolt anchor.5.8

P3 follow grove to a small roof and bolt continue to tree anchor. 5.9 rap route

Buried Treasure

Pitch 1 Climb up slabby terrain through a couple bolts and gear to a belay on the right side of faint groove. 5.8

Pitch2 climb up off belay to right of groove eventually stepping back into groove and climbing this for a handful of moves then stepping left back on to the face and straight up to belay 5.9+

Pitch 3 climb straight off belay through a couple boulder problems eventually trending back right through bulge and back into the groove up to belay 5.11

Pitch 4 climb straight up through amazing groove for almost a full rope length to belay. 5.10R

Pitch 5 we climbed straight up the right groove and simul climbed for 30’ or so eventually exiting right ending at the anchors for route of the living dead. After looking at a Topo we realized that you are supposed to climb up the right groove eventually going back into the left groove to reach official anchors for the route. Going right had limited gear and was crunchy. Also take note of the loose blocks and an executioner flake. Easy terrain but be conscious of these hazards. Maybe going up the left groove is safer/better climbing? 5.9R

Pitch 6 This is a bonus pitch for those who are craving one more. The climbing is a little crusty. Trend right to a left angling water groove and follow this to the trees. 5.10R

Double rope raps from tree and down route of the living dead eventually aiming back skiers right to the first belay of stranger than friction and then back to your packs. I believe you could rap the route just fine if you desired or rap nathans route friction addiction. Lots of bolted anchors around

Stranger Than Friction

Slab up to a horizontal crack in a bulge with a bolt located above and below the bulge.  Continue up past another bolt (where Laurel's Girdle heads left) to anchors at almost 200 feet.

Before the Settlers Arrive

Climb P1 and 2 of Hypocrites Corner. Jokers to the Right climbs corner system to the right.

Jokers to the right

Amazing, sustained face climbing. Rock steepens as you get higher, but it becomes a little more featured. End on fathom after headwall. I did the first pitch of begoon-offenbacher rather than the original first pitch of fathom direct (so this is what i am describing below).

P1: follow slabby face up past a few bolts and a couple of gear placements up high to anchors, 5.10-

P2: follow dike up and right past a couple bolts and then go up to another anchor

P3-P4: wander up water groove looking for pro

P5: The wall steepens a little and this is some sweet climbing

P6-P8: finish on fathom

Fathom Direct

This is just a cool little climb which goes through the obvious weakness in the roof on the slabs left of the lichen covered buttresses left of Annie get your guns in Dillard Canyon.

I only gave this climb one star because you have to walk a long ways past other better climbs to get to it.

Pretty much climb 5.7 slab to 5 foot roof with good gear, pull it and continue up 5.6 slab to anchor 190 feet up.

Stingray

This is a great climb for those looking for a slightly harder and spicier version of Central Pillar of Laurel. The first 3 pitches are 10ish, but the last headwall pitch is 11. The first 3 are the best which is why I rated this 5.10 on here.

Originally climbed up to the start of pitch 3 by the FA team. The route lay dormant for years until several teams had climbed above the original highpoint via moderate but extremely runout terrain. A hard pitch was also established through the headwall that happened to be directly above these lower pitches, so it naturally made a good direct finish. With the graces of the original FA party, the disconnected pitches were connected nicely by adding a bolt and a belay to pitch 3.

P-1

Start just left of Central Pillar, and climb the left diagonal crack to a face. Continue up the face past a bolt or two to a 2 bolt anchor.

P-2

Continue up, following the dike past 3 or so bolts to the belay of Stemming Laurel.

P-3

Step back out right and climb past 2 bolts to a high 3rd one. From here wander up the wall and slightly left into a crack system that eventually ends at a funky move onto the slab. The belay is just a bit higher at around 190'.

P-4

This pitch is harder than the suggested 10 grade -- it's mid 11 and optional. It's also possible to traverse either right of left to easier terrain, or to rap. Climb up to a bolt and arund the bulge to the headwall. Climb the headwall on bolts and gear to the big tree ledge and a shared anchor with Central Pillar Direct Finish.

Old Times' Sake

P1 5.8 face and slab past some gear and two bolts to a two bolt anchor beow the groove/crack. 110'

P2 5.9 flaring crack and groove climbing for 80' to easier ground to a two bolt anchor below a hanging block. 140'

P3 more 5.9 groove past two bolts to the next anchors...two bolts belay. 140'

P4 the 5.10+ crux pitch pitch through the headwall utilizing the groove and face...many bolts...to a double bolt belay. 140'

P5 5.8 groove to the Lost World Ledge. 110'

Rap the route.

Stemming Laurel

Central Pillar is a great option if you arrive at LK and find lots of the routes wet.  The first three pitches go at 5.9 and can easily be rapped.  The third pitch is amazing.

P1:  Climb the short corner to a horizontal that leads right to a sweet finger crack.  Follow the crack until it ends then slab up past two bolts to a bolted belay.  5.8, 150 feet

P2:  Step left to a crack and mantel up on a sloping wide ramp that leads right to another crack.  Continue up past two bolts to another bolted belay.  5.9, 150 feet

P3:  Locate the amazing quartz dike that snakes its way up from the left.  Climb up to the dike on the right, then left, passing three bolts to a big comfy ledge and bolted belay.  5.9, 120 feet

P4:  Traverse right to the big water groove, climb up past one bolt to a bulge, step right and belay.  5.10, 80 feet

P5:  Finish on Wild Turkey, 5.10+ or traverse right to the bolted anchors on pitch 5 of Seconds.

Central Pillar of Laurel

This is a great route because of it's variety, history, location, controversy and type of climbing it offers.  It features a right-facing dihedral on the first pitch, some airy climbing on the second and a crux third pitch that climbs a hand and fist crack to flake pulling at the very top.

Pitch 1:  Climb a right angling, right facing corning past a point, a wide section and a bolt.  Wrangle up through the trees and belay.  5.9, 130 feet.

Pitch 2:  Head up a face to a small roof and work right to the edge and pull up to a ledge.  Then climb textured rock past some airy moves over a bulge to another tree.  5.8+/5.9, 120 feet.

Pitch 3:  This is what it's all about.  From the tree step up and left to a small ledge, next wrestle your way up and in the fist sized crack by either lieback moves or jams.  Continue repeating moves with the alternate foot smear, stem, knee bar or whatever to a good stance.  The last moves climb the edge of the crack via flakes and a chockstone to another tree.

A bit of history about this route.  I believe it was first an aid route done by Peter Engelton?  On the route you will notice a couple of very rusty pins.  The upper part of this route was done by Shannon Stegg and Wayne Roy, I believe.

One additional note:  I don't know the "legality" of this route, ie done with express permission by the CCC, but it is a quality route and should be climbed.

Hypocrite's Corner

This is a variation to monster groove direct linking other routes with 60 feet of new climbing that bypasses the business of Monster groove direct and makes for the second easiest free route up the steep parts of Laurel Knob between Fathom and Forbidden Fruit.

P1-P2: Climb first two pitches of rejected radar, defective sonar, or P1 of monster groove direct and stellar sonar to get to the bolted belay at base of pitch 3 of defective sonar. (5.10)

p3: Climb rejected radar to the right angling crack (crux section on the face getting to the crack). Put a 6 foot sling on large cams (#4 and #5 camalot) and then continue traversing left on 5.10 climbing putting 2 foot slings on most of the gear. 4 bolts including the two on rejected radar. Gear belay takes #1 to #3 camalot. (5.12a)

p4: Climb overhanging water groove pitch of monster groove direct. A marginal small offset cam or TCU fits between the first and second bolts on the left. No other gear needed. Bolted belay on the dike to the left that is easy to miss. Bring a brush for cleaning a few key holds which get dirty quickly from the water running down the groove much of the year. (5.12b)

p5-p7: Climb the monster groove to the top (see description for the route dike hike - monster groove)

Monster Groove Reject Start

The first half of the route climbs the apron and begins right of Have and Not Need. This route has some run outs on moderate terrain. & bolted anchors.

P1 5.9R 200' Go left at the first bolt, aim for an overlap with a hand crack. Climb straight up to a quartz hold, sling a hold, pass a couple bolts then run it out to the Fathom Direct bolt (located above the dike and a bit right of the groove) and to the anchor.

P2 5.10 200' Step left and aim for the first bolt. Pass a crack, and eventually a couple more bolts. Above the 3rd bolt look left and go clip (48" runner) the first of the 4 bolts that this route shares with Laurel Robbins (Have and Not Need).

P3 5.12 135' Climb past a couple holes then pass bolts crossing (and clipping one bolt on) Fathom. A nut up and right protects clipping the 5th bolt.

P4 5.10 160' Climb the bulge and continue up the groove to the Mossy Mouse Ledge.

P5 5.12 50'  Do the vertical dance.

P6 5.11 190' 'Two Rivers Country' after the bulges, stay right of a cedar tree, and over one final bulge.

Steep in the Teacups of Laurel

This is a 4 pitch direct start to Dike hike- monster groove that we did a while ago. It makes for the steepest, longest, and most direct groove climb at laurel knob. It can seep with water often, but it is slightly drier than the forbidden fruit groove and comparable in wetness to the groove on defective sonar.

P1: climb slab past a cam and one bolt to belay ledge at start of stellar sonar, 5.9R

P2: Climb stellar sonar corner than up overhanging 1/2 pad diagonal crimp crux section. Amazing climbing. Have done it with one hang several times and should go free at 5.13-. You can A0 the crux section off of a hangerless bolt (bring a wired stopper or rivet hanger)

P3: Climb overhanging jugs to step left into water groove, 5.10

P4: Climb ridiculous overhanging water groove, 5.12b

Everything but P2 has been redpointed. P2 is an open project.

Monster Groove Direct Start

P1 20" left of Oasis at right facing corner.

Follow corner pass one bolt. Double rack to "3

60M 5.11 2 bolt anchor

P2 straight up passing two bolts to the left follow gear right to one more bolt. continue up to a gear belay in a rt corner under roof. 55m 5.10 #4 BD is useful to clip 3rd bolt.

P3 Follow corner to  break in roof pull crux sling horn. Gear and one bolt gets you to tree ledge. Belay at bushes or continue up left corner to 2 bolt anchor 5.12

P4 From 2B anchor traverse up and right under roof Pass 2 pins one bolt pull roof pass 2 more bolts follow gear to 2 bolt anchor 50M 5.10+

P5 follow 3 bolts straight up to big roof right under roof to a 2 bolt anchor 55M 5.10

P6 continue up and angle left to a water groove Gear belay 60m 5.8 no bolts

P7 continue up water groove to moss pad 2 bolt anchor left of moss 60M 5.8 Rap to the right to Oasis anchor. rap route

Mirage

This route climbs the entire groove which Groovin' in the Name of the Laurel follows for 130 feet. While Groovin' is very climbable when the groove is wet, this one would be very challenging and scary to climb when wet. Also I have seen the groove entirely frozen several times this past winter but it usually falls down before 10am so it might make a very bold ice climb. The groove basically has a seasonable stream running down it that is usually only dry in high summer, even when there are frequent afternoon T-storms. The climbing is very high quality fairly deep groove climbing.

P1: Climb the low angle slab on the left side of the manatee apron to a gear anchor with a #4 camalot. (5.4)

P2: (5.10d) Climb steep wall directly up to flakes that take you to a bolt or climb easier, better protected terrain up seams to the right. From the bolt, continue past 3 more bolts and gear to a long runout on 5.7 terrain protected by a cliffhanger hook  (180 ft)

P3: (5.9) Continue up groove past 3 bolts and gear to 2 bolt anchor (180 ft.)

P4: (5.9) Continue up the groove to a steep bulge with small gear in the slabby corner below Continue up the groove past a huge, precariously balanced death flake to the left. Traverse left to the tree island (160 ft)

Get it while it's hot

Groover is one of Laurel Knob's signature moderate routes.  It has the distinction of being established in a single-day first ascent by noted NC climber Jeep Gaskin and his wife Julia -- on their honeymoon!  For much of its length, Groover follows a nice arching crack system with great protection; toward the top, it uses the carved water grooves that are a hallmark of Laurel Knob.  Don't let the 5.8 rating or the fact that there's "only" six pitches fool you; this is a long and committing climb with serious runouts on the upper pitches.  Start early and bring plenty of water.

For anyone wanting to experience North Carolina climbing at its finest, Groover is not to be missed.

P1 - starting at a large pine tree, climb a right-facing crack system up and slightly left to a ledge with another pine tree and belay (NOTE: this pine is the only place to bail without leaving gear until you reach the end of the fifth pitch).  5.7+, 190'

P2 - Move right from the tree and continue up a left-facing crack that will merge into the arching crack system that is Groover's main feature.  Follow this for another full rope length and find a comfortable spot to build a gear anchor and belay.  5.7, 190'

P3 - Continue up the arching crack to a steep bulge; tiptoe over the bulge to the right and onto a sloping platform that makes a comfortable belay station.  5.7, 180'

P4 - Prepare yourself mentally for climbing high above your protection.  From the belay, climb high into the crack and place a medium-to-large cam, then downclimb until you can move out right on a bulge with quartz dikes for footing.  Continue traversing right about 30' to reach the second of two deep water grooves, then look for gear before heading up (there's supposed to be a distinctive quartz hole in the groove somewhere).  Head up the groove for about 100' or so (you may find a gear placement along the way), until you reach some spacious solution pockets and a welcome crack to build an anchor.  5.8, 160'

NOTE:  If you were doing the Fischesser variation, you'd continue up the arching crack from here.

P5 - Move left about 15' to the obvious continuing groove; climb this steeper groove past three bolts and one good pro placement in a finger pocket.  Finish at a narrow tree ledge with a bolt just below.  5.8+, 100'

P6 - Continue up on easier ground and arc out right to an obvious tree island for a full rope length; after bringing up your second, continue to the right end of the tree island and look for a bolted rap station (the top of P6 on the Groover Fischesser finish).  5.6, 200'

Groover (Gaskin Finish)

P1 from the second pitch of Pirate's Cove. Instead of traversing  into the Arrested Development Groove. Continue straight up and out the arching crack system pass five bolts. belay 2 bolt anchor 60M 5.10+

P2 continue up water groove ending at right side of bush ledge. 60M 5.8 Pirate's Cove anchor on left side of ledge rap route

Pirate's Cove direct finish

This is an alternate finish to "Seconds" up a small groove. It entails two short 5.10- sequences separated by quality moderate grooving. The only steep run out is the one you can see from P4 anchors of Seconds. We chose not to bolt here due to the proximity to the route "Seconds."

A Second Way (Variation Finish to Seconds)

P1: Climb up a seam and then some moderate slab climbing to a bush. Sling the bush and climb past three bolts to a fine belay with good view of the climber's left of the main face of LK...two bolt ring anchors.

P2: Traverse to the climber's right, unprotected, then up on small quartz crystals and thin edges to the first bolt in a water streak. Pull the next few moves past a couple more bolts over 5.10 face. Follow gear to the top.

Rap the route and hike back across the face and out the CCC trail. Topping out the gulley is trespassing..

Annie Get Your Guns

Tallest, Straightest Line climbing in North Carolina. 1.5 pitch super direct start to Fathom Direct. Continues above the Fathom route for a few more pitches.

Hone Ranger

This thing was originally under a thick layer of lichen (not of the endangerd variety), but after a good bit of cleaning up it revealed some really cool climbing.  Down low there is a funky corner and up high there are lots of quartz features for holds.  The crux utilizes what is likely the smallest hold that I've ever actually been able to "hold" onto, hence the name.

Climb the short fist crack in the right side of a flake to a stance and get a medium cam.  Continue up using cool quartz knobs past a bolt to a right diagonaling corner.  Follow this corner past a purple TCU and to the bolt line.  Follow the bolt line up the face and arete past some thin moves and cool crystals to a 2 bolt anchor and lower off. 90'

Quantum Mechanic's Arete

A slab and groove climb with a mixture of permanent and removable protection.  The crux on the fourth pitch is a great primer for Laurel Knob climb: a teetering rock up on tenuous smears, but with reasonable protection.

P1.  Pad up onto the slabs about 50 feet left of Mike Fischessers Girdle Traverse.  There is an obvious left facing feature in the bulge overhead.  Clip a bolt, an continue up the base of the bulge.  There is a nice #3 Camalot to protect the moves as you stand up and a high bolt will keep you from plopping back onto the slab.  Bust the 5.8+ crux on crystals, clip another bolt and trend slightly right to a two bolt anchor. (5.8+, 100 feet)

P2.  Take a direct line to a two bolt anchor that is up an right, crossing over Fischessers Girdle traverse at a bolt.  After the bolt, a clever gear nest can be constructed in an eyebrow and an oddly compelling #3 Camalot will stab into a huge pod to help protect the pitch.

P3.  Cruise up the easier slab towards the Three Way Ledge with two bolts and some marginal TCUs along the way. (5.4, 100 feet)

P4.  Off the Three Way Ledge, get gear under a huge flake/bulge, find more gear in horizontals, and stage up beneath the obvious bulging section just right of the central water groove (Socket Rocket).  Teeter on up through this 5.7 with mixed trad and two bolts to an accommodating ledge with a double bolt anchor.  (100 5.7)

P5.  Veer off right, place some sneaky tricams before another final bulge, and clip two more bolts as you mosey to the top. (5.6 100 feet)

Descent:  Rap the route with a pair of 60m ropes or one 70m.

Biopsy

Towards right side of cliff, between Stranger Than Friction (to left) and Use It Or Luge It (to right)is a shallow water groove. Go up a forested ramp before the bridge to a belay spot shared with Use It.

1. Climb up and left towards the groove, which is more of a black streak down low. The first bolt is a good ways out and is right of the streak. Cross the streak to the next bolt, then head back right and up to a large feature. Climb through this to the right, then up past another bolt to the large slash about 200 feet up. 5.8

2. Pull the slash at the broken flake into the crux section. A couple bolts interspersed with gear get you to a right rising ramp. Climb it to its end, then follow the crystal sidewalk left to the belay. 5.10+

3. Climb more or less straight up past a few bolts to a belay beneath another slashing feature. 5.9

4. Step left into the groove and climb it until the vegetation. Step right to the face and go straight up to the last set of rings. You will pass a bolt out to the right. This is part of the girdle traverse of LK. 5.9

Route Of The Living Dead

This is a really nice 3 pitch face line just right of Hypocrites Corner, and just left of Non-profit profiteer ( aka Old Tom Woodruff route).  Each pitch has very fun 5.10 climbing on rock that is more featured than usual for Laurel -- more like something straight out of Tuolumne.  The last bit on the last pitch is truly amazing!  It's also possible to rap the route with a single 60 meter rope.

Note: This route is often running water in the morning but will actually dry out with a couple hours of sunlight.

P-1  Start at a short crack with grass growing out of it -- Climb the cool sculpted holds to a high bolt.  Continue past 4 more bolts on fantastic and well featured rock to a 2 bolt belay.  The bolts are fairly well spaced but protect the hardest moves very well.  No gear.

P-2  Climb the water streak past 3 bolts and into a short right facing corner (protected by finger sized cam).  Mantel up onto slab and pad your way to the ledge and a 2 bolt anchor.  Careful here if the streak is wet.

P-3  Crux your way up to a flake (finger sized cams, including a possible hybrid at the top part of flake).  Move up to bolt on surprisingly good holds, and step right to cracks.  Climb the cracks and flakes (protected with finger - hand sized cams -- sling long!) to a line of 3 bolts that lead through the amazing headwall.  2 bolt anchor at 95'.  NOTE: The cracks on this pitch are still a bit grungy but will clean up nicely with some traffic.  The climbing above is well worth the effort to get to!

Rap route with 1 60 meter rope by swinging right at the last rap, and down-climbing a short bushy section.

Finger Lickin' Good

This route climbs the groove that creates the original Groover (gaskin finish) from start to finish. When hiking in to do this climb take note of Get It While It’s Hot on the right side of the wall. If it’s dry then this route will most likely be dry too.

Pitch 1 has three options that I will list in order of quality.

The best start is to climb pitch one of Fruit of the Poisonous Tree (5.12+). Look for the anchors down and to the left under the big obvious groove and climb downward to them. This pitch currently has a precarious placement in the .75/1” range that you need to get right. This pitch is also on the gnar side of things and you need to have it together jumping off the couch onto this first thing in the day. Good temps are a must.

Option two is scramble up onto the tree ledge and climb the crack to the left of forbidden fruit. Then traverse right to gain the end of forbidden fruits bolt ladder. This goes somewhere in the C1/2 5.9 range and is a much more favorable start than FF. Bring extra small to medium gear.

Option 3 climb forbidden fruits ugly and unnecessary bolt ladder then free climb right to anchors. A0 5.9 bring some rivets or wired stoppers that slide for rivets.

Pitch 2 move right off the belay and climb the mega sustained water groove. At the last bolt traverse right and build gear belay 5.12 170’

Pitch 3 climb up slab and then trend left to return into the water groove. Continue to bolted belay 5.10+ 170’

Pitch 4 continue up groove and through bulges to bolted belay. 5.11+ 160’

Pitch 5, 6 & 7 finish up Groover via gaskin finish 400’

Rap Fruit of a Forbidden Fruit and  transfer into FOTPT but be careful with your rope lengths. Then if you want you can easily continue down HHG by moving over another groove and going to the left on the pitch 3 rap which will put you at the pitch 2 anchors of the Dike Hike. Then one more 60meter rap puts you on the ground

Hostis Humani Generis

P1 13 bolts And 1, #1 BD 60M 5.11

P2 follow corner 60m 5.8 No bolts single rack

Wild Wild West

This is a good variation start to Oasis, with slightly harder climbing than the traditional first 2 pitches.  The first pitch climbs a fun 5.10 slab to a moderate crack through the small roof.  It is well worth climbing if you're cragging, or as a warm up pitch.

P-1 Climb the short right facing corner to some gear.  Move up the slabby face past 2 bolts and a good rp to the right facing corner/roof. Pull roof and belay on left side of ledge at 2 bolt belay.

P-2 Climb up and left past 3 bolts to a short and easy left facing corner.  At the top of corner continue up the right-hand groove passing 3 more bolts to a 2 bolt anchor up and right of the groove. Note: It is easiest to move around the bulge to the left before moving back into the right-hand groove. The anchors are slightly higher than the Oasis anchors.

Merge into the traverse pitch of Oasis

Squirrely man

P1: Head up the apron and climb a few 5.9 water groove moves past 3 bolts over a bulge. Scamper up low angle water groove (could finagle some small gear if desired) to a double bolt anchor (5.9, 200'). NOTE: if you start left of the tree against the rock, you'll come up a bit short with a 60m rope and have to simulclimb about 10-15'. Start from higher ground to the right and this shouldn't be an issue.

P2: Continue up steeper, fun, and fairly sustained water groove past many bolts (maybe 10? recently replaced and in good condition) interspersed with some pods that take hand size cams. Some fairly tense sequences (with good protection) and a few good rests lead to another double bolt anchor (5.9+, 175'). NOTE: the hangers on the third bolt and one of the anchor bolts are loose and could be unscrewed easily by hand. A wrench would be nice to crank those nuts down.

P3: Fun climbing up a very featured face to the right of the groove past some marginal small gear to a bolt. Continue back in the now less sustained groove past another bolt and a couple of cam placements. Tiptoe around or over the large and hollow sounding flake, clip one last bolt, and head for the anchors on easier terrain next to the Manatee feature (5.9, 160').

P4: Pick your choice of diverging water grooves and head for the finish. The left one looks unprotected (didn't go that way), the right one has an oddly placed old bolt right of the groove and some gear options (try not to slip on the lichen) (5.8+, 120').

Manatee Fluid

This is an amazing laser cut water groove and streak that probably should have been climbed a long time ago.  In my opinion it is easily one of the best routes at Laurel Knob.  Start up high on a wooded ledge, same as for Nannas Bananas.  FYI: This route dries long before Manatee Fluid (for reference).

P-1. Very fun pitch if dry.  Climb the left-hand groovy crack thing to a ledge and belay from bolts. 5.9. (Alt if wet, climb the 4th class slab on right to same ledge)

P-2. 5.11 The money pitch...  Climb the water streak and groove past 10 bolts (2 have been added) and gear,  varying from small C3's to a possible #4 camelot.  Belay at 2 bolt anchor at 185'.

P-3. 5.9 Climb the moderate groove past 2 bolts and gear to bolt anchor at 175'.  There is a cool #4 camelot placement in the groove up high on this pitch.

P-4. Pretty uneventful, but if you've just gotta top out the groove... then climb an easy 5th class pitch to the same rap anchor as for Nannas.... and Laurels Girdle.  It is slightly out left of the groove above the mossy ledges.

Rap route.  If the first pitch is wet, it might be best to rap the apron on Manatee left to avoid getting ropes wet.

The Legendary "F" Bomb

Great water groove climbing. Well protected (except a few easy sections).

P1: climb easy slab past one bolt to anchor, 5.7

P2: climb up water groove past a few pieces of gear to the first of several bolts. follow bolts to anchor, 5.10+

P3: climb up to 5.11 boulder problem overhang, pull it and continue up amazing steep and sustained grooving to anchor. A #1 camalot? goes in between a couple of bolts after the boulder problem and then there is no other natural gear (but many bolts), 5.11b (very well protected)

P4: follow water groove up and right past a bolt and gear to its end. break onto the face and clip another bolt on the way to anchors up and right, 5.9

P5: follow water groove to your right to anchor, 5.8

P6 continue following water groove to an anchor with webbing on it if you want, 5.7

Canyons of Laurel

Though not quite as well-known as routes like Fathom and Groover, Seconds is an excellent moderate with good protection and runouts maybe a little more generously bolted than you might expect of a typical North Carolina slab route.  For most of its seven-pitch length, Seconds follows water grooves that steadily cut deeper into the face until you find yourself in what's practically a chimney near the top.

The route goes like this:

P1 - (Direct) Slab up to roof and pull it on good gear to the right or left then move up to bolted belay.

P1 - (Original) Climb up the hill to the climber's left of the clearingto the base of the rock, but directly left of the P1 anchors...traverse easy ground right and up to the anchors above the roof.

P2 - Head up water groove for the original Wild Turkey route (10PG13/R) or move left and up more featured, better protected, crack and slab climbing (5.8+) over a couple bolts and some good gear placements, regaining the groove above. Climb straight up to a bolted belay.

P3 - From the belay, climb straight up the groove past a bolt and upwards. Either continue up on the left following features and gear until possible to move right to the spacious belay...or up the groove and right over face and two bolts to the good belay ledge with bolted belay.

P4 - Climb striaght up the well protected rightmost flaring crack until possible to move right to the semi hanging belay at the top of P4.

P5 - From the semihanging belay at the top of P4, make some thin moves up and right to gain a slight scoop left of the water groove...streeeetch out left to clip the bolt...slab up and into the groove and follow this up to a prominent quartz dike on the right...move out of the groove along this dike and do one of two things...OPTION 1: before the next groove, slab straight up the face with no pro to the anchors. OPTION 2: follow the dike into the next grooove for a couple placements, move up then back left to anchors...this belay is pretty comfortable.

P6 - CRUX - move right from the belay and up following flaring cracks back into the water groove...follow this up to a bolt on the left. Clip this and prepare to pull the crux bulge. There is a good blue TCU placement above the bulge that can be placed from the stance below. Follow the groove on up to anchors on the left.

P7 - Follow the groove on up for one last semi-clean pitch to anchors out and right. Most rap from here.

P8 - Dirty. Head up the groove then out and right on the face to two old, manky bolts...rap.

Rappel the route with two ropes from belay anchor to belay anchor. Two ropes mandatory.

Seconds

P-1 Same as Stranger Than Friction -- Easy slab past a couple of cruxes to a 2 bolt anchor.  5.8  180'

P-2 Climb past a bolt to gear.  Sling long and move left past large pocket (#4 camelot), then straight up groove to a bolt up and right. Move up and right past a finger sized cam (hybrid useful) to 2 bolt anchor.  Note: "Stranger..." moves left at the large cam to a separate anchor.  5.10- 180'

P-3 Place a shallow but good # 7 stopper in seam, and then climb the bolt line past some thin but cool climbing that turns into grooving.  Continue up the groove to a 2 bolt anchor up and slightly right (25' higher than the "Stranger..." anchor).  6 bolts and no gear past the stopper.  5.10+  115'

P-4 Climb the moderate groove for about 140' past numerous gear placements to the "Stranger..." anchor.  5.8  140' Note: The FA of this section had been done years ago as a safer way to finish up Stranger Than Friction.  FKA of this section was by Shannon Stegg.

P-5 Finish on Stranger Than Friction -- easy grooving with minimal gear to tree's.  5.6  190'  Note: Rap from bolts up and right on "The Route Of The Living Dead".

Friction Addiction

Place gear in horizontal to prevent you from tumbling way down slab if you blow moves to first bolt. Clip first bolt, decipher a well protected, tricky crux. Climb past another bolt (added by FA party, 2014) and good holds (5.9+), then mantle and clip the third (used to be the second) bolt.

Continue up to a flared crack 5 feet higher which takes offset cams and tricams. Climb up and left on cool face holds to another crack which takes medium cams. Climb up the water groove and the face next to it to a stance in the groove, just before it steepens.  Here, people used to undertake a 5.8X traverse left to #1 Camalot placement, and then back right into the groove to finish the pitch.  In 2014 the FA party added two bolts in the groove, creating a more direct pitch.  The whole first pitch is about 150 feet long done this way with about 60 feet of new climbing for the direct start.

Thanks to Andrew and Nathan for new bolts and new information.  Directly from Nathan:

Andrew recently decided to add 3 bolts to this pitch [described above] In the process, a much easier and even more direct start was discovered after the removal of loose debris. It's called "

Use It Express

" and listed in the database.

Use it or Luge it Direct Start

P1 - Climb up the crack/flake eventually working right past two bolts.  Continue face climbing/slabbing past a bolt and a bolt right at a mossy ledge.  Build a belay at a horizontal with medium to large gear when you run out of rope.  You will be about 20 feet shy of a pine tree (Peter Young Tree) - or simul to the tree.  P2 - Climb up the featured slab/watergroove past a couple of bolts and some gear to a bolted belay.  (This pitch may be wet)

Descent - rap to the anchors down and right on Shimer Down at the top of 2nd pitch and continue 2 more raps to the ground.  See topo.

Two Rattlers in Your Face

This a very cool and varied route starting on Laurel's shorter right side that gradually traverses left on a thin quartzite dike and eventually crosses the groove of Manatee Fluid.  Don't be worried if some of the streaks and grooves are wet.  It's generally pretty easy to step across on large features.

P1- This is a really fun and unique pitch that has very few handholds once you are established on the dike. Start up a weakness above some vegetation and climb straight up past gear to the first bolt.  Enjoy a balancey sequence near the second bolt and continue past more bolts and interesting features to a bolted anchor at a nice ledge with a cedar tree.  Some gear gear can be placed just before the ledge.  5.10-

P2-  This great pitch is very different and much steeper than P1.  First, fire the bouldery crux right off the ledge past bolts, then continue along the dike crossing a cool water streak and the Manatee Fluid groove.  End at a bolted anchor shared with Laurel's girdle just past the Manatee groove.  An added bolt on this pitch makes it much more reasonable for the leader and follower.  5.11b

P3- This pitch is optional but necessary to put you down near your gear at the start.  Climb easier terrain up and to the right toward the trees on top to get to three different options for bolted anchors to rappel from.  There is no distinct path here, but you'll need to move pretty far right.  The most convenient is likely at the top of 'Icecapades' (see photo topo), but the 'Shimer down anchors aren't a bad option either.  5.5

Laurel's Snake Dike

I've been meaning to post up this nice doubly direct-start for a while now...

Discovered while assisting Andrew M. with adding bolts to his direct variation, this route cleaned up very well upon removal of a few key loose flakes, leaving behind great holds on steep rock. As is, it's probably the best way to start Use It Or Luge It (at least in the sub 11+ range), as it only goes at 9+ at the start, and 10- at the top, which is the short second pitch of Use It...

Start out left on the apron in a short right facing corner with a god TCU at full reach. Climb past this and through the steeper wall past 2 bolts on good holds to merge into the groove above the crux of the direct start. Continue up past 2 more bolts (new ones thanks to Andrew) to merge into the original 2nd pitch. Continue past 3 more bolts and a key #.75 camelot to the anchor. 180' This is a nice and straight moderate line.

Use It Express

Updated details...

Pitch 1- Slab up to the lone bolt and rock over a few delicate moves (5.9) to gain the small overlap which you climb on the left side. Establish yourself on the slab and climb up to the rings (shared with Laurel's Girdle) while passing the occasional gear placement. 125 ft.

Pitch 2- Continue up the slab while aiming left towards the large white pine tree. Find an old 1/4" bolt to the right of the tree and continue straight up passed one new bolt to a bolted anchor. 5.7

Pitch 3- Climb the right hand groove above the anchors passing 3 bolts. 5.8+

Gear- Some draws and standard Laurel rack. I remember one thread through placement on P1.

'Shimer Down

The crux is at the left end of small roof on the 2nd pitch. It's a little run here. As Andrew said 1 star only because of the bushwhack Also note this area from the mossy buttress left is on private property. That and the fact of it being such a low angle we tried not to put any bolts.

Girl friend route

A fun route that takes one across the greatly exposed upper flank of Laurel Knob.

Primarily "easy 5th" with harder moves usually near protection, more so for the leader than the 2nd, the route is relatively straight forward via the belay (all fixed) and protection bolts.

For the most part the route climbs within LK's last bit of steep rock likely allowing numerous escape points up (versus rapping--which reportedly can be done from belays 3, 6, 8, 9 & 10).

Laurel's Girdle

Nice often drier variation start to Fathom Direct. Climb SS bolts up face. Either continue up Fathom Direct or up grooves to Fathom.

Have and Not Need

This is an excellent plumb line route with pitch after pitch of high quality challenging face climbing. See the topo for all the info needed to climb it and enjoy. Note that it is nearly always dry so it is a good route to do in a wet winter when most of the other routes are wet. All the 5.12 moves on p1 can easily be French-freed.

Some of the pitches including p1 were pinkpointed on the FFA.

Fruit of the Poisonous Tree

Climb the first bit of slab to get up and right to some crack/flake features.  From the top of the flake, make a bit of crimpy moves past the first bolt.  Then continue to slab and edge your way past two more before reaching the anchors at a ledge under a big roof.

Cruising with the Top Down

This is another high quality slab/face route that stays dry when most all of the grooves are wet.  It is a step up in difficulty from say "Central Pillar", so for those looking for something a bit harder, this would be a good one to do.  It climbs through 2 steeper sections of wall on amazingly high friction rock!

P-1 Climb the right facing corner just left of the start to "Stemming Laurel" to a small stance and a gear belay at the top.  While the corner is vegetated, it actually climbs much better than it appears.  5.9

P-2 Climb the face up and slightly left past 3 bolts to gear (#2 camelot in hole) and then 3 more bolts to the (shared) 2 bolt anchor of "Dolphin Graveyard".  5.9+

P-3 Move right along dike and climb through the steep rock following a few bolts to easier terrain and eventually "Lyles Ledge" for a gear belay (.4-.75 camelots)  5.11-

P-4 Move up and right past a couple of gear options then up a long moderate slab to the headwall (level with crux pitch of "Stemming Laurel").  Climb the headwall on bolts past a semi-hollow flake to a stance up and right.  Make thin moves up and right, then back left past one more bolt and a 2 bolt belay.  5.10c

P-5  Climb up the moderate groove past 1 bolt to the "Lost World Ledge" and the belay bolts in the steep wall (the ones for Stemming Laurel).  5.8

High & Dry

This is a direct finish up the obvious shallow streak in the bulge above the P-3 anchors of "Central Pillar...". Originally started but abandoned a few years ago, it was recently revisited and finished.  It makes for a more direct and slightly harder finish than that of the original finish of "Wild Turkeys".

Climb the path of least resistance to the first bolt and then move left to the corner. Gear slung long here gets you back right to a line of bolts going through the bulge. The climbing is slightly right of the streak to start and more resembles Sunwall climbing than Laurel. Follow the bolts up to easier terrain that is protected by a small cam. Belay from bolts between the mosspads.

Central Pillar Direct Finish

Pitch 1: Scramble up onto the ledge and pull through a roof down low. Climb upwards aiming for a giant fin that forms a crack/groove system. Follow this up and right to a double bolt belay. 5.10

Pitch 2: climb the flakes and cracks above to a couple bolts. Crank through this section and trend right then cut back left and down climb a few moves to make a gear belay 5.10+

Pitch 3 climb up off the belay slinging chicken heads for pro. Eventually gaining a ramp that trends right and then cut straight to the top 5.10

Rap the route

Tastes Like Chicken

From the top of the first pitch of hypocrites corner step left follow corner system to the top of pillar. 50M 5.10 rap route

Clowns to the Left of me

Laurel's newest and quite probably hardest route! Originally begun years ago by Ralph Fickel and Burton Moomaw. See topo and photo for visual description and here is what Arno reported on the CCC site:

Defective Sonar (between Fathom and Forbidden Fruit through an obvious right-angling crack at about 200' height)

FA info: Ralph Fickel, Arno Ilgner, Shannon Stegg

8 pitches, rated IV 5.11a, C2

-

On June 16 we completed this route that Burton Moomaw and Ralph Fickel started back in 1991. Their high point was three and a half pitches up, through the crack and into the bulging face climbing.

-

I went back in July with Shannon and freed all the moves but haven't yet redpointed it. The third pitch is a 130-foot diagonalling crack that has "challenging" pro and I think it is the crux of the route, although the next pitch is pretty cruxy also with a iron cross move to a blind hold.

-

The climb has much variety on it, from thin slab climbing on the first two pitches, difficult crack climbing on the third pitch, "interesting" face climbing on the fourth, beautiful groove climbing on the fifth, thin/technical face on the sixth, deep groove climbing on the seventh, and easy slab on the eight.

-

Free climbed in April 2010 by Arno

Defective Sonar

This is a really fun and fairly sustained new route that yielded only one gear placement on the whole thing.  It also required a good bit of cleaning but turned out to be of very high quality, and is a must do for someone looking for more of a challenge than just ordinary slab climbing or grooving.  There are quite a few crystal knobs on all 3 pitches that make for interesting climbing.  Most of the route is solid 5.10, with exception of the short crux on pitch 2 that is 11.

Note:  this route is easily rappelled with a single 60 m rope.  The first pitch diagonals, but the rap is only 80' or so.

P-1  Climb up and right following a line of 8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.  5.10+ 120'

P-2  Move out left and climb past bolts on featured steeper rock that gradually gets harder, culminating in a hard 11c move.  From the crux the climbing eases up past 2 more bolt to a bolt anchor.  5.11c  100'

P-3  Move left and climb past 3 bolts on featured rock to the one and only gear protected spot.  Continue up and right on the ramp past 3 bolts to a ledge and one more bolt and then the bolt anchor.  5.10+/11 95'

Clippidy Doodah...

Not too sure if this is Manatee Left (as noted on M. Fischesser topo) or Manatee Center (as noted in the NC Guide book).  Either way fun long pitch to top off the day on the way out.

Thin opening moves lead to more features and a bolt.  Work left to a water groove and continue past two more bolts and rap rings at the top.  You will be about 20 feet left of the start of the second pitch of Manatee Fluid.

Manatee Left

Climb the left of twin water grooves,50'right of Walkin DA Plank 60M 5.10

Keel Hauled

P1 It's a little run  to the first bolt. No    gear is needed after the first bolt.60M 5.8 anchor right of groove at moss pad.

P2 Follow groove to tree ledge.60M 5.6

P3 5th class left of groove 12:00 from tree to a 2 bolt anchor. Note (Peter Young established this anchor and the next bolt. then never finished the route. He traversed  to the tree ledge from dillard canyon)

P4 Up and right to the steep groove (old 1/4" bolt not needed) continue up groove (Crux) passing 4 bolts Belay at top of tree ledge. 45M

5.12-

P5 Continue up groove gear only 55M 5.10 tree belay. rap route. There's a two bolt anchor  at the bottom right side of the first  tree ledge.

Arrested Development

This is a face/slab route that can be done in fairly wet conditions, making it a good new addition to Laurel.

P-1. Start from the long & narrow ledge between Seconds and Canyons...  Climb up easy 5th class and around either side of rhodo bushes to steeper rock, passing some gear and 1 bolt to a 2 bolt anchor at 200'.  5.9

P-2.  Climb past 6 bolts and a crucial brown tricam (difficult to see from below, but above 4th bolt) to a natural anchor (#1-3 camelot).  180'  5.10

P-3 left var:

This variation is much easier, probably 5.9.  A bouldery start to get into the groove, then fairly mellow climbing above to merge into Seconds.

P-3 right var:

Move right to a thin face protected by 1 bolt.  Climb the exciting face to the obvious groove.  It would be best to build an intermediate belay from gear somewhere in the groove, but it is also possible to continue about 70m to bolted belay atop pith 5 of Seconds.  230'  5.10+

Dry streak

P1 Climb left angling crack up to roof Natural Belay 5.8 50M

p2 continue left under roof. When roof ends turn up first water grove belay at tree. or higher 5.9 60M

Stegg, Roy Fathom ALT.

Start on the tree island just above the route's namesake about 50' to the right on 'Better Late Than Never'.

P1: Climb the first pitch of the 'Manatee' or walk in from the right on the new trail leading the Girdle, Biopsy, etc.  There is also a short and easy approach pitch near the end of the slab uphill and to the right of the 'Manatee' start.

P2: Climb the low angle slab past some expanding gear up to the overlap and bolts.  Balance over the overlap (5.9+) and continue up the long slab past increasingly distant bolts to rings at the choked cedar tree ledge. 200+ ft.

P3: Climb the bouldery crux shared with 'Laurel's Snake Dike' past 3 bolts and begin trending right towards a groove after the 4th bolt and intersection of 2 quartzite dikes.  Climb the fun and moderate groove past 2 bolts and gear in those cool Laurel Knob holes to rings.  5.11b

Rock Eating Tree

P1- Ape your way up the fantastic techno-crack then manage your way up the crux face to the anchor.  5.11+  100'

P2- Get your slab head on to the amazing diagonal jugs.  5.10  170'

P3- More stellar slabbin' to the anchor.  5.10  175'

P4- Pull the steep water groove.  5.10  120'

Nana's Bananas

This is an excellent and surprisingly moderate line up the tallest part of this huge wall, and it ascends some very unique and contrasting features.  As the name suggests, the lower half follows a huge dike, and the upper half follows a huge groove.  With the exception of one 5.11 move (that can easily be A0'ed) the whole line is 5.10 and under.  The exposure is big for this route due to the traversing nature of the line and the steepness of the wall below!

The route climbs the first 2 pitches of an old unfinished Haslam/Shull line along the amazing dike, and then continues along the same dike for one more pitch before gaining what is probably the largest and deepest groove on the wall.

Note: last I heard, Brian and Harrison were still interested in finishing their line up the groove that our traversing P3 crosses over, so we have refrained from climbing that.

P-1  Start below Groover in a short left facing corner.  Climb up past some gear to a line of bolts that angle up and right along the large dike to a 2 bolt belay.  5.10

P-2 Continue along the dike for nearly a ropelength and belay just shy of a (usually) wet groove.  This is the groove that Haslam/Shull intended on finishing the line with.  5.10

P-3  Climb past the first 2 bolts (Haslam/Shull) and cross the groove.  Continue moving right along the dike passing a bolt for "Fruit Of The Poisonous Tree".  Continue past some cams and a bolt to the Forbidden Fruit groove.  Just past FF, clip a bolt and do a funky down-mantel and clip another bolt. Follow the dike another 30' to a belay just shy of the monster groove.  5.10

P-4 Climb the monster groove past bolts and gear (red C-3 is crucial above the 3rd bolt) to where the line moves into a smaller, right hand groove.  Follow this up to a bolted belay.  5.11a

P-5 There are 2 good variations for this pitch:

Left variation -  Move back left into the monster groove and climb this deep groove (chimney) past gear and bolts for about 190' to a bolted belay out right.  5.9+

Right variation -  Move up and right and follow the cool streak and shallow groove past 4 bolts and gear to the same anchor.  5.10+

P-6  Move back left into the groove and follow it to the top, passing 1 bolt to a bolted anchor at 190'.

Dike hike - Monster Groove

This route offers varied climbing and follows some neat features. As the rating suggests, it's more casual than your typical LK route.

P1 - Start near a large white pine tree at the base of the Girdle Traverse. To the right of P1 of the girdle is a left facing flake above a sloping ledge. Make a few funky moves off the sloping ledge and onto the flake. Climb the flake to it's end, then slab up past two bolts and move slightly left into a long, dry, tan colored groove. Follow this easy groove past another bolt to a double bolt belay on a moss pad ledge. 5.7 60m

P2 - Continue up the obvious groove to some pockets under a moss pad and a bolt. Move left around the moss pad, then back right until you're directly above it. Climb the steeper face on cool pockets (gear) to a good stance with a bolt. Climb up and slightly right into the shallow corner and up the obvious right facing flake. Where the flake ends continue up the face/slab, finishing up a shallow groove to a belay ledge with double bolts. 5.7, 45m

P3 - Directly above the P2 belay is a vegetated groove that's often wet, we didn't climb it and it doesn't look all that great. To the right of this is an obvious clean groove with a short steepish section. This is one variation of P3. I don't recommend climbing this groove unless it's almost completely dry. There's one bolt in it above the bulge and then a bit of a run out on easier ground to where it joins the right most variation. 5.7, 60m

I like the right most variation the best and suggest it as the normal finish. This variation is just right of the groove described above. Start as for the above described groove. Move right just before the start of the steeper part of the groove at a gear placement. Climb up a few horizontals to a naturally clean streak. Climb the streak past a single bolt and a bit of a runout to easier ground. Continue up following a series of ramps and horizontals past a small cluster of trees on your left to the top of the wall and a large pine tree. 5.7, 60m

Note: If the P1 flake is wet the P2 one will be also. If you make the hike and Frolictown is wet, one good option is climbing P1 of the Girdle straight up to it's belay (aka Before the Settlers Arrive) and linking up with the route Biopsy. Info on Biopsy is available on the forums on the CCC website.

Frolictown

This route is the slab that goes up on the right hand side of the Stingray roof. It features cool wavy slab climbing. The crux is right off the ground, and there is one bolt about 15 or 20  feet up. If you do this route, be very careful because if you blow the 5.8 moves above the first bolt just before you get to some jugs, your belayer would need to take in lots of slack to keep you from decking from 40 feet.

After the bolt, wander up the face getting very sparse but good gear in horizontals (5.8R). Make sure you wander throughout the route as necessary to follow holds and gear. This route doesn't follow any grooves or water streaks, so it stays relatively dry after periods of wet weather.

Aloha slab

P1 5th class until you reach Right Facing Corner.

P2 Follow Corner to water groove Continue up water groove passing one bolt Belay at 2 bolt anchor. 60 5.8

P3 continue up water groove passing one more bolt.2 bolt anchor 60M 5.9 Rap route

Mutiny

This route (generally) climbs the arete of the popular "Hypocrites Corner".  It involves 3 pitches of fairly hard and exposed climbing, and should be on the tick list of the arete aficionado.

I must credit Andrew for having put the final bit of work into finishing this route after we abandoned it at the end of last season.  He also did the redpoint of all 3 pitches of this one.

P-1

There used to be 2 starts, a left one and a right one.  The left one is now the start for "Clippidy Doodah".  The right one is the standard way - it starts by standing in a rhodo branch and climbing up and slightly right on slab past a couple bolts to easier ground and a 3rd bolt.  Move up and further right past a 4th bolt and over to the arete and some medium cams.  Continue up the excellent arete past several more bolts to the great belay ledge and a bolted anchor.

P-2

Climb the obvious bolted line and then make the awkward crux moves rightward to large holds and a larger cam.  Continue up and left on jugs past more gear, a bolt, and a slung horn to a stance.  Make some final slabby moves up to the ledge and belay on bolts.

P-3

Move belayer to the right a little.  Traverse up and right past 2 bolts to a short dihedral with gear.  Step right onto the short arete past a couple bolts and the crux to easier ground.  Continue up easier ground past a bolt and med cams to the top.

Dillard Arete

Another high quality face route that is unusually well featured for Laurel and should not be missed. This might just be my favorite route at Laurel at this point! The best way to describe the features on this wall is to say that it is more like something you'd find in Tuolumne than right here in Carolina. There are 2 variations for starting the first pitch, with the left one being the original easier start, and the right one being a little better, straighter, and harder. Both variations are cool, as are both pitches.

This route even stays dry when most of the other lines in the Canyon are wet -- both pitches were climbed on a day following an all night rain.

Update: the crux is slightly harder now due to a small foot hold crystal breaking.

P-1 The left (original) start: Start on top of a very short flake in the seasonal creek bed and make a couple moves up onto the long bushy ledge and belay here. P-1 Climb past 2 bolts and medium sized cams to a ledge with finger sized cams/tricam. Sling this very long, and move right to a line of bolts (6) leading off the right side of the ledge. Watch rope drag at the first couple bolts of this next section. Follow these bolts to the anchor 180'.

P-1 The right-hand start: Locate the larger flake/chimney feature uphill and about 30' right (just shy of the fixed rope in the gully). Chimney up to the ledge and follow a line of 3 bolts straight into the original line which is 5 more bolts to the anchor. 160' This variation makes this pitch an absolute must-do classic!

P-2 Climb up and right past 3 bolts to good holds, and good gear. Large tricam (3-3.5) works well here, but is not necessary. Traverse right to the corner and follow it up onto the easier and highly featured face -- some of the biggest granite holds you'll ever pull on! Climb to the top on jugs and good gear to a 2 bolt anchor just over the lip. 180'

Rap route with 2 ropes.

The Funky Chicken

P1: Start in the obvious left-facing corner/ramp. Climb the corner until it gets steep. Make moves around to the right onto the face and then to a bolted belay above. 5.8+

Alt. Start 1: From the base of the corner, slab directly out right, then straight up over seams for gear and high quality 8+/9- slab.

Alt. Start 2: The Spermtail Start: From the ground below and 100' right of the corner, climb directly up through the obvious bulge/groove/crack, joining the normal P1 at the belay. 5.11+ or A0.

P2: Traverse right into groove and up over a bulge on hand jams. Continue up groove/crack and face aiming for a lieback flake. Pull this onto face and clip bolt. Slab and face take you to anchors belay the Oasis ledges. 5.9-

P3: Slab up to large ledge and taverse up and right. Continue past the end of the flaring crack and past one bolt. Keep going right, past corner, until you climb up groove to anchors.

P4: see below.

Rap five times to ground on two ropes.

Oasis

This is a fun easy slab.  If it weren't for the easier section in the middle breaking the pitch up, I'd have to give it more than 2 stars.  The rock quality is good and there are some interesting holds interspersed within the friction slabbin'.

Start uphill and left of Black Flag.  Friction up to good quartz features and a bolt at about 20'.   Continue up easier, runout slab (5.7R) to a cam placement.  Move up steeper friction past 2 more bolts and follow the subtle groove up until it's possible to step right to the anchors on Black Flag.  175'

Don't call me surely

I doubt this chimney has even been climbed but who really knows.  So I gave it a name -- which name comes from its unique top out experience.  This is a chimney that gains the top of the 100' buttress behind (and right of) "Quantum Mechanic's Arete".  It's worth doing if you're into climbing chimneys.  The finish is really quite unique, requiring you to tunnel horizontally through a hole in the top of the chimney, and what is essentially the ground, emerging in the woods on the other side.

Wormhole

This is a cool route with just a short section of aid that follows an obvious series of cracks and then grooves left of Defective Sonar. It has no water streaks so it will dry very quickly after rain and thus it is a good wet winter route. Also, like defective sonar it is also a good summer route due to the shade until noon and what is usually a nice breeze up high on the wall. All moves 11c or harder can be aided by standing in slings or french freeing.

P1: Climb slab to cams to #1 camalot then continue up over roof past 5 bolts to anchor

P2: Continue up slab past 3 bolts and 2 spots with nuts, tricams, and small cams to 2nd pitch anchor of defective sonar

p3: climb defective sonar crack for 20 feet, step left to climb short corner, and climb powerful face moves past a bolt (strenuous clip) to lower angle terrain and another bolt. Continue up to crack (need #5 camalot at start) and traverse awesome and awkward crack to its end at a 2 bolt anchor.

p4: high step past reachy 5 or 6 bolt bolt ladder. This part has not been freed but looks like it would go at 12+ or 13-. Then climb slab to another awesome crack feature. Climb this to 2 bolt anchor with some 12a crack grooving at the end.

p5: climb slab past bolts and gear to a really fun mantle move protected by a #3 camalot. Continue to anchor

p6: climb out right to gear then past a couple bolts then a long 5.8 runout to key medium cams in a horizontal (around #1 camalot size?). Then step left and climb groove to belay at some amazing crystals and potholes in the rock

p7: continue up groove past a couple bolts and gear to the top

Descent: Rappel the route. You can also rappel from the top of P4 to the top of P3 of defective sonar, then rappel to the top of P1 of defective sonar.

Rejected Radar

This route offers a better 2nd pitch option for the route Wild Wild west in Dillard Canyon.

When climbing Wild Wild West, break right from one of the last bolts to the two-bolt ring anchor on a sloping ledge atop the left-facing dihedral 20 feet to the right. From this anchor, follow the bolts with some gear in between to a nice ledge atop the cliff with a two-bolt ring anchor. above the 4th bolt are some key large nut placements placed sideways. from here there is a bolt straight above you but climb left up to a flake then back right to clip it. The crux is above a small cam about 5 feet above the 3rd bolt and is somewhat heady because it would not be fun if the cam ripped. Otherwise the climbing is fairly well protected and very fun.

I originally led it ground up with three bolts drilled from stances, but I added three bolts because the original bolts (currently the first, the 3rd, and the 6th) were in stupid spots, resulting in a lot of rope drag and poorly protected climbing in some spots.

O.K. Corral

Climb to the left over roof. Pretty sustained grooving, some slabbing.

Use It Or Luge It

This is a good direct finish to mirage with pumpy overhanging terrain with good holds for LK (including a few jugs on an overhanging wall!). I'd consider it a good intro to the harder routes at Laurel Knob. Since it is climbable when the groove is running, it is a great year round route.

As described below, it starts from the top of pitch 3 of mirage. Though very good, Pitches one and 2 of mirage are usually wet so an alternative way to get to the start of this direct finish is to climb to the top of the  second pitch of Oasis and then climb 5.8 slab to the 2 bolt anchor in the lower oasis. Pitch 3 of mirage goes through the headwall here to the upper oasis then the direct finish goes straight through the headwall above the upper oasis instead of going out right to lower angled terrain as the standard finish to mirage does. The direct finish is very much climbable when the groove is running water as was done on the FA and FFA and the rope does not get wet.

Pitch A: Climb overhanging orange corner with bomber gear to a jug on the overhanging wall. clip a bolt then make bouldery thin face moves left to get established in deep water groove. Climb the usually wet groove past 3 more bolts to 2 bolt anchor. (5.12b, 90 feet). The crux is mandatory free climbing.

Pitch B Climb face right of groove past some gear to ledgy area then continue up to a bolt in a bulge and make bouldery moves to get established over the bulge and into the much easier groove to the left. Continue to belay at one bolt and gear in a pod (#1 and #2 camalots)(I did not put in this bolt and have no idea what route it is part of) (5.12a, 120 feet)

From here you can traverse left to anchors of permission granite or fathom direct to rappel or you can continue straight up the easy groove above to the top (an alternate finish to fathom)

Both pitches were pinkpointed on the FFA

Mirage Direct Finish

Before you get to first bolt step left onto face.

(This pitch was put up while the groove was running water. The rest of the route was climbed with water running in groove.)No bolts Continue to anchor

Pirate's cove Alt start

P1 left of corner flake system climb up face 60m 5.6R Alt P1 climb flakes and corner 60M 5.8 2 bolt anchor P2 Gear And 4 bolts leads to a 2 bolt anchor 60m 5.11

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Laurel Knob