Winter winds, avalanches and ice have created a vast

,

blown out, bowl of snow and rock.

- A passage through the Triple Glacier Route will be neck deep in the natural world.

- The very top of the route is usually shared with the SW Coulior and is very enjoyable.

- Beauty begins once one leaves the east shore of Jackson Lake reservoir, wonder really kicks in at the inlet of Moran Canyon and Moran Bay.

- Enter the domain of the Bear, Moran Canyon.

- reach the avalanche, encounter rock and snow and scramble and hike toward the summit sandstone.

Triple Glaciers, NNW Face

This long and remote route is an excellent mountaineering outing, on generally good rock and with the likelihood of some snow travel as well. It was Petzoldt's most memorable climb on the peak, done in an early season ascent when snow climbing would have been an unavoidable feature of the day. Parties should evaluate conditions and be prepared for snow in the big couloirs and on the ledges, depending on the timing of their ascent.

The setting is unique and spectacular, and once atop the crest near Phil Smith Peak  excellent views include Traverse and Bivouac Peaks to the north across Moran Canyon, the Triple Glaciers to the west, and the scabrous, repellent north face of the Moran itself.

North Ridge

This route follows an unlikely line through the steepest terrain of the No Escape Buttress, following the prominent white dikes above the enormous arching roof left of center. After the P2 aid, five pitches of primarily face climbing lead up through (more) steep, intimidating terrain. Cruxes on P5 are pretty well protected with high-tech small cams.

P1  Start about 250' left (west) of the "pedestal" start to the Direct South Face route. The enormous P2 stepped roof is directly overhead, and the left-leaning crack visible. Some loose rock leads to a small left-facing dihedral/LB (5.7). Traverse right on the broken ledge to the good, slightly tilted ledge. Belay from a couple small nuts. 35m.

P2  Step right and up over a couple blocks, then up on improving rock quality (5.7) to the base of the roof. This C2 awkward roof crack leans left and overhangs nearly 40'. Three fixed pins are located for the best lowering-out for the second. Some mandatory 5.7 near the end of the pitch. Belay at the bolt and pin anchor. 55m.

P3  Climb the dihedral to the roof (5.8). Do not undercling right; instead, traverse left past a pin and out onto the exposed face (5.8). Reach through a big move (5.9), find good gear, then step right into the white dike, go up, then step back left to good gear. Go over the bulge (5.10-), then tension right from a fixed nut across the white dike. Climb up on steep buckets (5.6R) to a shallow pin, then traverse right to the tree ledge. 50+m.

P4  Straight up from right of the tree to a short, shallow right-facing dihedral. Continue straight up on superb stone through a 5.9 bulge. Good directional gear for the second. Traverse right on a 3rd class ledge to a short 5.7 dihedral to the Pedestal belay. Belay takes Yellow Alien and .75 Camalot. 45m.

P5  Climb the left of two micro-cracks (5.6R) just left of the white dike above the belay to a bolt. The 5.9 double-mantle leads to a cool LB move to the right through the white dike to a bold 5.10- bulge into dark rock. Stem through steep terrain (5.9) on tiny gear past the "stink-finger," a large loose block. Step right to a sloping belay ledge. 35m.

P6  Climb the face (5.9) straight up from the belay to an easy traverse left across the white dike. Go up the left margin of the dike through a jam/LB bulge (5.10), step left on a thin ramp, then (5.8) up to a pin. A 5.7 hand traverse leads right across the white dike to a short hand crack. Scramble up to the buttress-wide ledge system and belay. 35m.

P7  The last pitch continues straight up the left side of the tapering white dike (5.8) into a wide (5.7) constriction, then 5.7 stemming straight up for over 100' to end on the sharp, exposed ridge of the buttress. 58m.

4th class scramble for around 300' to the summit.

Strategy:

A backpack might be handy for the second to carry the jumars, aiders, etc. that are not needed past P2. Jugging the severely overhanging P2 with a pack (with water) may be a bit tiring; since P2 is a pretty clear (overhanging) haul, consider hauling the pack. Do not underestimate the time-sucking nature of P2. Consider fixing to P2, and returning to jug the free-hanging rope the next morning to free-send.

Retreat can be made via a diagonal rappel from the P3 tree (40m), then from the P2 anchor (60m). A loose, easy 5th class ramp at the beginning of P5 goes left to join the West Arête route. A similar, but larger ramp connects the belay for P7 to the chockstone pitch of the West Arête route (but why bail now?).

No Escape Buttress Smoke & Mirrors

A classic climb in a beautiful location. Although the CMC Route is the most popular route on Mount Moran, it does not see a lot of traffic compared to other Teton trade routes. On a summer day there are usually 3 or fewer parties attempting the CMC Route.

While a fast party can climb the route in a day, it is more leisurely to use the CMC campground for the night before (and possibly the night after) the climb. A backcountry permit is required to use the CMC campground (available from the climbing rangers at Jenny Lake).

The usual approach is to canoe across String and Leigh Lakes to a point below the East and West Horns on the east side of Mount Moran. From the base of the lake an obvious but eroded trail leads up the hillside among beautiful wildflowers for about 1500 feet to the CMC campsite. The trail traverses left (south) just below the campsite; follow cairns and tape on some trees.

The CMC campsite is located among trees and near a spring. It has beautiful views and feels pleasantly secluded.

To climb the CMC route, first hike to the summit of Drizzlepuss, descend into the notch between Drizzlepuss and the east face of Moran, then climb the east face of Moran.

From the CMC campsite a trail goes to the top of Drizzlepuss with some scrambling. The trail can be difficult to follow in the dark, so it helps to scout where it goes before a pre-dawn start. Watch the cairns carefully to find the easiest fourth class route through the cliff bands. If you miss the easiest scramble, you may find yourself on fifth class ground and want to rope up. After this steep section, follow the scree slope, heading left around the West Horn, to the top of Drizzlepuss. This is a good location to leave extra water or packs for the descent.

From the top of Drizzlepuss, scramble down a short distance to the right (north) to find an rappel anchor. From this anchor you can rap or downclimb into the notch.

The interesting climbing starts from this notch. Initially the climb heads up a short corner, then traverses right (north) to avoid Unsoeld's needle. After the traverse pick a path up the broad east face of Moran, staying to the left of the prominent Black Dike. There are many possible lines up the face. The traditional CMC route stays near the center of the face. Several pitches of climbing lead to the top of the face.

From the broad summit ridge, it is an easy walk right (north) to the proper summit of Mount Moran.

The descent is somewhat involved. With careful routefinding it is only fourth-class downclimbing and does not require rappelling; if the correct route isn't found it may be more difficult. The descent stays near the south end of the east face of Moran (climber's left). From the notch between the face and Drizzlepuss, climb back up to the summit of Drizzlepuss. This is easier if you stay to the south (climber's right) of Drizzlepuss.

The remainder of the descent just reverses the hike back to the CMC campground and the lake.

CMC Route

No Escape Buttress is the first rock wall in Leigh Canyon.  The low elevation and south aspect make it good for climbing around the same time as Death Canyon.

The West Arete route has a variety of rock, and is an enjoyable alpine rock climb.  The crux comes in the form of splitter cracks in the first real pitch of climbing.

P1 - Climb the arete and face under the nice looking handcrack and roof above to a big sloping ledge.  Watch for some loose rock. 5.6 100'

P2 - Crank through the 5.10- roof and into the flared hand crack.  Easier climbing leads to another 10- move left under a roof.  Follow the crack up and right to a belay under a black roof.  5.10-  140'

P3 - Climb the intimidating black roof (5.8) and follow the right hand crack to another small roof.    Step right and climb face and cracks to a small ledge in broken rock.  Watch for loose blocks above the first roof 5.8 150'

P4 - The next lead goes around the corner under a small roof.  Continue up to a wide crack with two fixed pins.  Belay on a ledge at the start of 4th class terrain.  5.8 100'

P5 - Scramble up the ridge crest, or just left of it, to a large lunch ledge with a wide crack at it's east end.  4th 200'

P6 - Climb the face left of the wide crack on the ledge's right (east) side.  After about 50 feet or so make a traverse right to the pedestal of the main face.  Belay on the ledge under the left trending cracks of the next pitch.  5.7 100'

P7 - A great pitch on cool knobs.  Work up and left in an awkward crack (5.9).  Continue up in a crack to a horizontal traverse left on knobs and a hand rail.  Follow the path of least resistance through large knobs on slightly runout terrain.  Head for the wide crack above (5.8).  Belay on a nice ledge above the wide crack near a ledge extending right on the face.  5.9 150'

P8 - Head right on the ledge (onto the s. face) to the base of wide cracks in the face.  Climb the cracks and face to another ledge at the base of the chockstone chimney.  Watch for loose rock near the top of the pitch.  5.7 100'

P9 - Climb through the chockstone chimney tunnel and cracks above (one move 5.8 at the top) to a broken belay ledge with a tree. 5.8 140'

P10 - One can make an exciting yet easy traverse right around the corner from the belay and onto the face and up to the ridge.  5.6 80'

Once on the ridge scramble(4th) for a few hundred feet to the top.

OR - One can scramble off left from here and  follow the ridge crest for several hundred feet to the top of the buttress.  4th and easy 5th.

No Escape Buttress, West Arete

The long, steep walled, upper coulior caps off a fish hook shaped route. Sometimes in springtime, this is the nicest, most chill, way up and down Mt Moran. The steep side walls and a SW exposure keep the sun off most of the route for awhile. Later, in sun or storm it can make a long, partially channelled avalanche.

The crux, exiting the top of the coulior, is a short but 5th class chockstone. 5.5, 8m.

The top of the route is classic unroped climbing shared by the northwest face, Triple Glaciers route.

South West Couloir

Overhanging crack inside a right facing corner. Can be seen from the Leigh Lake.

South Buttress Prow

The south buttress of Moran is an amazing climb with pitch after picth of beautiful granite. SBR trends up a crack system working right up the wall. (5.8) First pitch leads off from a triangle shaped rock up a corner system, and up over a bulge onto a well sized ledge. (.9)Second pitch wanders through a right facing corner with good hand jams and jugs, and a liebacking leading into a ramp up and right to a belay below crux pitch. (.11a -smallest cams to 0"-.25") Work into corner past pitons, making insecure lieback moves around corner and up slab past another piton and up to/past optional belay, where you can either stop or continue on up through small roof to belay under even larger roof (last pitch is often broken into two). From belay work up towards roof breaking right to the beginning of great traverse. Taking advantage of gear you find on the way and watching for rope drag, traverse right along small wavy ledge systems for 70ft+/- and belay below hand crack on small block.

(.10a) Work up crack past piton, up and through V-shaped roof to large comfortable ledge. (.9+) Go right along ledge 30 Ft and head up broken rock to old bolts leading to top of climb and first rap anchor.

South Buttress Right, Mt. Moran

Clean, black streaked corners right of S. Butt Right.

Excellent, even classic **** as a more difficult start to SBR, but run out climbing keep the top from being recommended...

South Buttress Hodini

An historic 11p route up a sea of granite on the South buttress of Mt. Moran.  When combined with the upper ridge to the summit, this is the longest route in the lower 48.  I would be surprised if there is a longer rock route in N. America.  The first ascent (1953), the exposure, the paddle in, and the setting, make this a classic.

Climb (5.3) for about 400-500' up a gulley to the second ledge. This gulley is located about 100yds past some trees and the prow (though it is probably possible to climb up some 5.5 to 5.8 almost anywhere from the first to second ledges). Move west about 50-100' and climb 5.7 or 5.9 crack to another ledge system 50' above.  Follow this ledge system up and west for about 300-400'.  The real climbing now begins up beautiful solid granite.  Two, 200' pitches can bring you to the top of a huge detached flake.  From the top of the flake some 5.8/5.9 pg-13 climbing (50-75') brings you around an arete to some spectacular exposure at the double pendulum pitch. Two pendulums or an 11d traverse bring you to a 4-move aid section followed by some 4th class.  The 4-move aid section can apparently be climbed free at 12a- though you would need some small finger tips.  The final pitch follows an amazing handtraverse back east for about 100'.  This will leave you at a large bowl with some trees and bushes.  Water is sometimes available in a spring here and the rappels begin to east of the bowl.

Continuing to the summit will make this climb several times more difficult.  Apparently, good route finding can allow 5.4 scrambling over about 3000' of climbing to the summit.  We moved up to the ridge and soloed consistent, extremely exposed knife-edge climbing (5.6) for 1000. It appeared to me that staying below the ridge would allow easier climbing.  When faced with a notch and headwall move a few hundred yards east/NE to continue to summit.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Mount Moran