Ikar Lost

Don't get fooled.  It's pretty good 5.9 climbing but the bolts are pretty widely spaced, so better be comfortable at the grade.

Bullocks

Climb straight up to reach the 1st bolt.  From here, traverse a bit left and then back right to gain a vertical seam below the overhang.  Climb up to reach the jugs in the overhang, clip the 3rd bolt at the lip and then head up and right to gain a stance above the roof.  Clip the 4th bolt and head out right on to the face for a good rest.  Easy climbing on incredibly good holds to the top.

Load

A little wanderary with bigger moves to finger buckets.

Girl in the Hornet's Nest

After the low crux, this route angles right and finishes up the featured hand crack.

Kenny Said So

This is route is similar to the other routes on this terrace with some easy climbing at the bottom, some harder moves in the middle, and a slopey jaunt to the top.  There's a pleasant mix of edges, crimps, and slopers.  Don't forget to enjoy the beautiful views at the top.

Zombia

Two Eggs and Two Martinis

This is a great long route!  Start by climbing up and make some techy moves to reach excellent holds under the overhang.  From here, score a bomber hand jam at the base of the crack in the overhang, find some feet out right, and work your way up the crack aiming for an awesome pocket out left (crux).   After pulling the roof, continue up vertical face following a few crack systems.  The wall will begin to get slightly overhung and then go back to low angle.  As the route turns from overhung to slabby, the holds get a bit slopping.   When you get to the top, be sure to look around and enjoy the nice view upstream of the 4th buttress.   This route will use every bit of a 60M rope.

Schneezal

This route is a link-up of Red Bull and Schneezal.

Start with the opening boulder problem of Red Bull (crux) and continue up through the 5th bolt of Red Bull. Continue up then left past a fixed draw and one more bolt until you find a stance on Schneezal. This section adds a sequence that is about 12a. Finish on Schneezal.

The rock on both these routes is awesome. Great to have another route that ascends this section of rock.

Bull Schneezal

It's all good! Enjoyable climb with sick views

Ferrovieri

This is the leftmost route on Second buttress, unsure of the name. About 15 feet around the corner of "Load."

Unload

This route is the right line of bolts on the left end of Second buttress, 15 feet to the left of "Load."

Unnamed Left 2

Frog Hunt

Start with a high step above a low roof and climb the white face, occasionally using holds left of the bolt line. Use nice underclings to reach a jug at the 5th bolt. There is a loose, but seemingly wedged rock in the vertical section of the obvious slightly overhung, angled crack/flake. It is not necessary to use the loose piece as there is a jug in the flake next to the loose peice. Make a couple long moves with tricky feet. Then continue of steeper rock on good holds to the top.

One Banana

Upon looking up at Red Bull you begin to question your sanity for trying something that looks this hard. While booting up you wonder whether you'll find any footholds up there on the smooth rock and if those bulbous ripples are actually any good. But, like all routes somebody was able to do it, and after all, we are all human.

Red Bull starts in the huge orange hueco and works up and right to gain the pristine face above. Be careful exiting the hueco because the rock is very fragile and you could pop a foothold or/and handhold. Getting established on the face is a little bouldery (probably V3ish), but pretty manageable. After that its a lot of great mid 5.11 moves with a 5.12- move towards the top.

This is a great route!!! Go do it.

Red Bull

Pretty standard face and very slight slab climbing up until the anchors, then some very delicate clipping.

Heavy Bigos Lover

This route is slightly slabby with generally positive holds but gets a little slopey up top.  It looks like it hasn't been climbed since its first ascent and has a decent bit of lichen and no chalk, but it's good fun.  Guidebook calls it 10a but it felt 5.9.

Kimba

Start inside the tunnel formed by the massive leaning block and climb out the right side of the tunnel to the face above. After clipping a few bolts in the first 30 feet or so, you will have the option to step off the main wall onto the top of the massive leaning block for a no-hands rest (or a nap, or a picnic) at mid height. You can clip another bolt from here too. To finish, follow the bolt line up on good holds through the overhangs above.

Rodent's Party

Climb easier rock to the second bolt. From here, decide if you want to try to find holds in the blank-looking face straight up, or climb easy rock up and far right and then traverse back to the bolt. Repeat for bolts 4 and 5, but by climbing less far off the bolt line. Climb steeper rock on good holds to the top.

Climbing this route using holds to the right of bolts 3-5 and traversing back to clip is still 5.10d. It appears that climbing directly on bolt line would be harder.

Madmen Rule the World

Gain the roof by making some technical moves through vertical terrain on reflective white stone. The large roof is *much* easier than it looks from the ground, with amazing jugs and tight bolting.

Very fun!

Pistol Whip

Easy 5.8 and 5.9 climbing up to below the last bolt, then the holds kind of disappear. Clench your anus for the hold-less smearing up the last 10 feet to the anchor.

Transfat

There are a few cryptic movements down low getting into the dihedral as well as getting out of it. There is also a crux on the head wall that will test some old school power.

Minotaur

Climb through relatively easy terrain to the third bolt. Above the fifth bolt, don’t go to the right. Straight up is harder but nicer.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 3. Second Buttress