Climb hands past some ledges in a L-facing corner/stem box to a roof. Traverse left to R-facing corner of stembox and pull roof with a hand jam and miraculous jugs. Climb varied L-facing corner to chains with fingers, hands, and OW. A superb "Second-tier" classic at this wall!

The Host

This climb is the next line right, perhaps 10meters, from the obvious line, Fuzz.  The route starts in a tight stembox, and the crux of the climb is getting up out of the stembox into a right-facing corner. This is done on an awkward undercling handjam and juse below a 1.5" or 2" cam placement.  The climb soon thereafter becomes a left-facing corner, but remains 2" or red camalot for quite some time, providing an enduro pump after the technical crux.Enjoy!

The Inhabitants

This climb on the left side of Way Rambo Wall. It is best found by locating the 'wide' climb Way Nutter, which is just left of a huge gap in a right-facing dihedral, and then going one line further left past an arete. This line is characterized by its unusually large number of face holds for both hands and feet along the upper half of the route in lighter-colored rock. Climb up on good jams and good gear with decent face holds until near the top, when the jamming and face holds suddenly both become awkward and insecure. Put in those 1" cams and then 1.5's to get up to the anchors. Convincing yourself to let go with one hand and pull up slack to clip the anchors might be the crux of the route.

The Monk

Do a constantly narrowing OW to the end, then a bit of face climbing and left to the crack of layaway plan.

Layoff plan

A rampy wide hands corner leads to a beautiful splitter on an upper headwall of varnish that is hard to see from below. The moves on the upper part are varied and sustained, on amazing rock. An overlooked, great addition to the wall.

Ninja in the Shadows

Moderate OW to OW flake that is perhaps best liebacked. Hand crack to anchor. High quality rock, great climb.

Farkle For It

This route is located to the left of Layaway plan and Good Times (off-width). If you go to the petroglyph you have gone too far. This route follows a nice and varied splitter to a bolted anchor, which is out of site from the base of the climb. The first 15 feet or so is pretty soft and sandy. The crack goes from hands to tight hands (in my case fingers)then back to perfect hands to the top. Fun climb and worth doing if you are at Way Rambo.

Cockometer

As the guide says; very steep and sustained finger stacks through a small roof. Featured on the cover of Climbing #128. The stacks on this climb are amazing/good. But to prepare for this climb I would suggest placing your thumb in a vice for a few hours. Do that every day for 2 weeks and you are ready. You get a lot on this climb for 60 feet. Oh and there is one hand jam on it, but it not that great. But after 45 feet of stacks, it most welcome. If you have nice small and thin hands you can hand jam.

Slice and Dice

cool pody, flared flake that starts in a chimney and continues up and out. fun chimney/stemming moves for the first half of the route followed by some awkward cruxy moves on the flake.

Renegades of Funk

Classic, perfect, splitter hands on the wall just around the corner from Way Rambo.

Blue Sun

The offwidth about 20 feet left of Blue Sun, starts as hands and gets rapidly wider...but there are plenty of small ledges for rests after most moves.

Great shady climb in the am,

Way Putter

A short section of hand crack then traverse right into the long splitter offwidth (mostly 5").  The crack bends to the right a little before the chains.

Good Times

Desire is an offset OW that lends itself to your left side in.  You can get a couple of good rests out right of the crack with your feet.  Near the top you enter a large cavity and chimney up to where the anchors are located.  There is a loose looking hold I "didn't grab" to pull onto the slab to clip the chains.

Desire

Good corner climbing, fingers leads to perfect fists up a corner.

Coppertone

This is the splitter finger crack that starts from behind a pillar. The opening moves are chimneying up to the top of the pillar where the crack is just a seam. The crack gradually widens and several wider/funkier sections are encountered before reaching the anchors.

A Tale of Two Sheep

Fun, varied climbing. The crux is right off the deck  via a purple-Camalot sized crack. The climbing never gets too hard as you punch a few moves to a great hand jam and then repeat. When the two cracks get close enough you can stem between the two and employ a variety of jams to ascend this fun double crack system.

Wishbone Suspension

"Find out who wears the pants in this family"

The Hostess is the much harder option sharing an anchor with the Host. Start in the same corner but traverse out right at the roof doing either a tight squeeze or a wild layback (this crack MIGHT take a very large Big Bro). Once through that nastiness, climb changing corners through a variety of wide sizes eventually tackling a steep fist splitter.

This route can be TR'd after doing the Host. It would be a proud lead.

The Hostess

Way Rambo is located near the top of the approach trail to the Rambo Wall.  Upon reaching the top of the trail and the routes Rochambeau and the Fuzz (or whatever that long-ass 5.10 hand crack is), head left around the corner and look up.  You'll see an incredibly striking hands - thin hands - off fingers splitter with two distinct leftward hand traverses, one at 30 and one at 80 feet approximately.  This is the crag's namesake and one of the more fabulous and kick ass cracks around.  The basic consensus is 'way bitchin' and 'way fuckingradman' and, my own creation, 'way butter', a play on way nutter.  The first half of the pitch is 5.10, and as the crack narrows the grade steepens.

Way Rambo

This is a fun fingercrack and layback climb with delicate feet at the left dehidral of Blue Sun.

Fix Your Tips

This route is the obvious left-facing corner up and right of approach trail's intersection with the rock. This is 50M right of Way Rambo and just right and facing the popular warm-up, Rochambeau.Climbinto the awkward slot and then up and right to enter the corner. Climb up good jamming at a low angle with some nice ledges for rest here and there. Use these ledges for a complete de-pump to avoid enduro fatigue at the finish. Continue climbing, placing widening gear on the upper section, with good undercling hand-jams. Finish on 3" cams under the right-leaning crack/flake to grab the finishing holds and get into the finger slots to clip the anchors from. Great finish to a great climb. A 70M rope is required to lower off or TR this line.

Fuzz

This is the chimney behind 'Slice and Dice'. It protects (!) with TCU's in a finger crack, so it seems like a good way to get to know this kind of climbing without the typical runouts found in most such places. I haven't tried it straight in (w/o using the back wall), but this would be a whole lot harder.

Further up this corridor one encounters a wavy, podded R-facing flake which we climbed for 100' or so. This has recently sprouted a lower set of anchors (right where it gets wide, funny) and a plaque: "Renegades of Funk, 5.10". Owing to the wing-like look of the feature, we had considered "Bernoulli Effect" as a name, but it was getting late to be sitting around carving on rocks.

Closed Course

This takes a right-facing corner just left of The Monk.  The corner has a step in it half way up.  Slightly loose and a bit of thrutching near the top.

Kelley Route #16

Going based off of the plaque at the bottom, this is 5.10. Shares anchor with The Expensables 2. I think a 60m will reach but tie knots and make sure. Both expendables routes can be TR'd through the same anchor.

Expendables 1

The faded plaque hints at the name of a video game ninja from the early 90s. When spelled with an "s", many of us will remember the Ginsu knives that were hawked on infomercials during the late 70s and 80s, said to cut through anything. Ginzu's catch phrase from the game Captain Commando was "I'll slice 'em, I'll dice 'em."

Some easy-ish chimneying brings you to a stance below the tips and fingers splitter. Hard entry moves give way to easier, featured climbing through baggy fingers and bigger. Very good route, with a unique feel for The Creek.

Ginzu

This is an awesome tight hands, right-facing, varnished corner.  It is immediately right of the obvious Serrator Crack, and 100 yards left of Way Rambo.

Climb a short wide section to a rest ledge, fire up to a second rest before a bulge, through the bulge up into the roof.  Undercling or jam the roof for 12 feet, turn the corner and fire up to the anchors.

Awesome!

Layaway Plan

This climb is right at the end of the approach trail.  There is a slot here formed by a right and left facing corner.  The right facing corner (left climb), is

Rochambeau

; the left facing corner (right climb) is

Fuzz

.

The first pitch is a good warmup with solid jams and many ledges for the feet.

Rochambeau

Low angle lieback corner with some pods that goes up to a tat anchor at about 90 feet. Mostly baggy fingers and .75, with a few #1s, #2s. A bit dirty and plenty of the feet will crumble off while you climb it but still a nice route. [edit: more recent comments indicate that the route has cleaned up and is no longer sandy]

Expendables 2

Chest Full of Kind

Offset offwidth that widens as you get higher (4" - 6").  Traverse right and move up through an overhanging offwidth slot (6"+).  Finish at a small stance before the rock becomes lower-quality.  Short but sweet!

Grindhouse

This route is found just to the left of Layaway Plan and cannot be mistaken since the name says it all.  The first 20 feet is the meat of the climb, just insert your leg and start stackin.  The rest of the climb is only about 5.8 but you need to walk the #5 for a bit and beware of the serrating edge.

Serrator Crack

This is the obvious offwidth/squeeze chimney immediately to the right of Blue Sun.  Start on the outside and then squeeze your way into the heart of the rock past some chockstones and pop out the top.  anchor added April '11 by the FA party, didnt catch his name but it looks like a sweet addition to the cliff.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Way Rambo