Fun climb that goes to the top of the West Ship. 

  Pitch 1:    Traverse in across the face to the anchor at the top of Phone Call From Satan

  5.8 30 ft. 

  Pitch 2:    Step left from the anchor and proceed up a thin crack through a black face to a large ledge with a bolted anchor.    5.8 40 ft. 

  Pitch 3:   Follow the large dihedral up and left to the top of the formation and a bolted anchor with rap rings.   5.9 60 ft. 

 Pitches 2 and 3 can be combined with the first pitch of Phone Call From Satan into one long 175' lead (recommended)

  Rap with a 60m rope to the anchor at the top of Caffine Free then one more rap to the ground.

Solar

Purple Headed Warrior is the rightmost route on the river face.  It climbs a bolted face separated from the other river wall routes by a small, broken gully.  PHW is a very moderate warm up, or a nice intro lead.  Pleasant pebble pinching moves on a fine example of Smith's welded tuff bring you to the anchor.

Purple Headed Warrior

Fun and popular warm up. Steep start leads to fun slab climbing above. The rock gets really good just below the anchor, too bad it's not that way the whole pitch. 

  A fun option is to link this with the last two pitches of Solar into one long lead.

Phone Call From Satan

Power attacks the upper headwall right of solar.  Fixed draws help protect a hard clip off a shallow 2 finger.  In inspiration, Ian Cadwell got this route on his 3rd try.

Power

Begin on the recently rebuilt, luxury ledge. Complete with heated leather belay seats and lowering kit, the first bolt lies just a few feet higher than it once did. 

  From the ground, warm up with the initial 5.11+ / V12 boulder problem (generally considered to be the crux) to a stance at the 4th bolt.  

  After resting here for 30-40 minutes, cut left and slap your way through the entire crux sequence of Slit Your Wrist. 

  If you manage to make it to the 7th bolt without slicing your groin open on the arete, you've finally reached the base of Mr. Yuk, which lies on the headwall to your right. Better than it sounds and just as good as it looks, progressively difficult boulder problems separate each bolt all the way to a crux at the 11th. Be sure to chalk a few footholds to confuse the next guy before climbing the last few bolts to a fixed anchor.

Mr. Yuk

Great new route to the left of Caffeine Free. Starts with a sweet lie back pinch, into an even better lie back, then some sweet  "Smith nubbin" face climbing and jugs to the top. Protected well and possibly the best intermediate route on the wall!Sierra here: it is actually called COVID 5.10. (since cover is '19', I was just playing with numbers). it went up 4/20. Casey did try and save a nice hold down low but adding epoxy, but our guess is that it will break sooner or later.

COVID-5.10

Caffeine Free is the leftmost of the bolted routes on the river face of the West ship, following a thin seam and some pockets to an anchor below Solar.  Caffeine Free can be easily recognized because there are two bolts at the first stance.  One is a bad spinner. 

  Climb past the first bolts connceting pockets, huecos, and edges.  You will be moving back and forth between the seam and features to the side as you ascend.  Launch into the crux off an undercling in a giant hueco and work your way up and back right follow small edges to a good rest.  Pay attention to your feet.  After these moves, the difficulty eases, but remains interesting 5.10 to the anchor.  There are some loose blocks just below the anchor-- don't knock them down on your belayer.

Caffeine Free

This route has sub par rock but kinda makes up for it in the fun movement including cool liebacks highsteps and underclings. Good rest are there the whole way.

Caffeine Free Finish

An opening violent move cedes to a thirty foot 5.7 solo (could place a hand sized piece with a 48" runner, I think.  A fall from this could ground you from fifty feet.).  Atop this little wall, clip in, sit, and get psyched for the upper wall, which has some great movement.     The crimps for hands are satisfyingly small, and the multitude of small, but sharp, footholds allow artistry.  I would not be surprised to see ten different people climb this ten different ways.

Time's Up

A short lower-grade sport route. The rock isn't super confidence inspiring right now, and the moves are just ok, but it's a good one to set up for your new climber friends when Night Flight and Easy Reader are busy.

Vertical Taco (Nacho Libre)

It climbs the left side of the river face.  Start up Time's Up till the route heads left.  Attack a 5.13- crux before making it it the blade.  Watch out because many have failed upon the pumpy 5.12A finish.

Slit Your Wrists

The Next Major formation past the East Ship. Varied collection of climbs on three sides of the prow-like formation.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in (e) Western Ship - River Face