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Peak Mountain 3

Krokus

FA David Caunt
UPDATED BY agustinmalki 

Description

Located in the middle of the south side, this route is nearly always in the shade.

This interesting climb isn't too much about power, just keeping yourself balanced on a route with minimal footholds. There's a 5.11 move in the bottom near the first bolt that involves a smear move, and then sustained 5.11 lieback from the second bolt to the top, getting tougher as you move up. The crux is getting yourself to the top anchors, as the feet are non-existant in this section.

For an added burn, link this up with Hocus.

Protection

3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. On lead, you can protect the section after the first bolt with a large (2 1/2" - 4") friend (#3 BD Camelot, Marroon Metolius Supercam) and optional finger size (#0.4/0.5 Camelot) at the top of the slab.

Bring short slings (3') for a top rope. The top of this route can be accessed without climbing it by down climbing from the top of Indian Rock from the south side, though be careful, this is non trivial. The best place to set a toprope is at the top of hocus, rappelling in from the top of south face.