Preiss Route

Hike up left of the main wall in path of least resistance for couple thousand feet (some class 3) After reaching a large bench area traverse in from the trees, with short down climb, gaining the large ledge with a weak waterfall on its left side and an obvious stair stepped rock “gully" once in the mid 5th gully, climb about 80 feet up to set up an anchor at a crack. exit the gully moving slightly out right and up a full pitch with some fun 5.8-9 slabby rock with a few good cracks/pockets to add solid protection (pg13). reach a shelf with a couple small pools of water on it with good belay cracks. Angel left and up, climbing easier rock until reaching the base of the great slabs. climb the sub-par 4th-5.3 class rock, for (6-700 feet?), eventually aiming for a small, thick stubby tree on the upper rightish side of the face. go on to the next small tree patch to belay. climb strait up the slabby rock and soon reach the large ledge under the steeper headwall (great bivi). traverse it to its left side and climb a fun (5.6ish) blocky corner which ends at a small sandy notch. continue up from the notch via a few difficult moves (5.9) with a solid thin crack for protection. It quickly turns into class 3 with small trees. go until reaching the last obstacle, a rock wall of maybe a half pitch, is good 5.8-9 rock with good protection. after, walk a bit down and left through a small gap in the trees and onto the gentle northern slope. Hike around right and scrambled the short back side of the sub summit rock. Descend up and over the main west peak summit and down the west ridge (don't head strait down the backside slope NW!) or rappel IB if have 2 ropes. In all I belayed 4-5 moderate pitches (5.6-9 all with good pro PG13) middle slabs are R or X rated but are easier

small-medium rock rack with many runner