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The Deviate Direct

61m
FA Larry Treiber & Barbara Zinn.
UPDATED BY pseudalpine 2 months ago

Description

P1: Face with some loose flakes (5.6) to shallow bowl and crack. Follow crack through another bowl, slightly angling right over loose rock following smaller crack to base of overhang. Crack continues over two bulges then traverse right, stemming faces, another short face to access ledge and belay.

P2: Angle right, then left across easy face around corner, up broken face, past shallow vertical crack. Traverse left, cam horizontal crack, clip bolt, then up steep face (5.8) using several small depressions and thin crack. Grade continues through some horizontal cracks with shelves and large blocky section with vertical cracks to boulder belay.

Location

South face, Left of Palo Verde tree.

Protection

Cams, tricams, nuts. One old, rusty Leeper at crux. Downclimb gully/faces (cl.3) on eastside to piton/bolt single line rappel.


Routes in Twilight Pinnacle


  1. 1
    The Deviate Direct
    5.8
    Trad
1000 km
1000 mi