Air Force One

4 pitches of solid slabby crack climbing on Blodgett Peak. A bit dirty but very solid, as long as you stay away from the loose blocky cracks in the dihedral along the left side of the face.

P1 - 5.9, 38m: Start under the large roof. Scramble up the shrubby gully to the right side of roof, clip two bolts moving out onto the prow of the roof, continue up the middle of the slab for about fifty feet until you find an old piton, take a hard right here toward a small pine tree to find a two bolt anchor on a ledge.

P2 - 5.7 or 5.9-, 35m: (5.9-) Climb straight up from the anchors following the thin angled crack until it ends, continue up and right on slab with a few bolts for protection to anchors on a ledge. (5.7) We did not do this variation, Phil's Beta: Take the left fist crack until it thins, then trend right at the pin (50 feet). Keep aiming right across east slabs, and avoid climbing over loose blocks and the broken corner to your left. You’ll eventually end up on a nice ledge with a two bolt anchor.

P3 - 5.9, 36m: Pull the roof, follow the spread out bolts over easy terrain, veering right until you find the large belay ledge with a two bolt anchor.

P4 - 5.5 or 5.10, 20m: (5.5) Climb up and to the left to the gully leading to a two bolt anchor on top. (5.10) Climb straight up over some slab to the bolted dihedral and pull the best moves of the climb to top out at a two bolt anchor on a large ledge.

Descent: A 70m rope can rap the route A 60m can rap the face using the anchors from Cheyney-Becker (Falcon route) to the right of Air Force One. Anything shorter and you can scramble to the summit of Blodgett and hike off.

From the Blodgett Open Space parking lot hike the trail toward the summit, watching for the buttress on your right. Leave the trail at some point and scramble across the boulder field aiming for the right side of the wall, looking for a large roof where the climb starts (this can be partially hidden behind a large tree also at the base of the climb).

P.S. they lock the parking lot gate at dusk, so get out on time or be ready to hop a curb.

Cams 0.1 - 3, 6 draws, some slings.