The Niche

This route shares the same start as Tool Boy but traverses along the horizontal seam into the bolted mid-face dihedral and continues up the crack to the anchors. The start has changed with the collapse of the large flake and probably for the better. While the Niche needs a few pieces of gear to get off the ground, it borrows its bolts from and overlaps almost entirely with Nakoma. This is a sport climb for strong trad climbers and moderate boulderers. Strong boulderers, move along, and trade the gear for a long stick clip.

The main feature of this route is the dihedral and the crack above. If you don't want to bother with the hangboard traverse (or attempt the boulder problem on Nakoma), you have two options. You can jug up the first 20 feet, or on TR, climb up and right, and take a swing into the bottom of the dihedral. In difficulty, starting here feels like about 11d.

Cams .3 - .5 and quickdraws.