This is a fun mostly finger crack on the seldom climbed Lower East Face of Eagle Pinnacle. It's a single pitch but comes in two parts, separated by a small ledge. The first half is a variable width crack/flake with a very loose but easily avoidable block halfway up. Above the ledge, it becomes a perfect, sustained finger crack that eats up pro and jams. The actual crux is probably the first move or two getting off the ground , but the emotional crux is probably somewhere toward the top. Due to the elevated start, be sure to reach up to get some pro in right off the deck. Good fun for the grade, enhanced by late afternoon shade.

Finger Lickin' Good

Climb the slab just left of Finger Lickin' Good past 3 bolts.

The moves past the first 2 bolts will get you crankin' on your fingers (10b/c), and some fancy footwork on the edges is required.

The second bolt is a tough clip, so beware.

The moves above the last bolt involve insecure friction for the feet (10c) until you latch the finishing ledge.

Rhino Skin

Scramble 40' up to the base of the route. From standing on the flake, pull onto the wall and climb past 4 bolts to the crux 5th bolt. Slightly runout moves gain the base of a right angling ramp. Easy moves up the ramp take one to the last bolt. One may belay at the two bolt anchor on the Sloppy Seconds ledge, or continue on the easy crack to the base of Eagle Pinnacle. A single rope reaches from the double bolt anchor.

The Untickable

This was a fun climb with sporty movement on really good holds, but note the flakes holding the pins and any gear you would place are extremely hollow and you probably wouldn't want to fall on them. Would be an excellent route if it got a few bolts.

Sublunary Flight

Just to the right of Razor's Edge - the nut/cam anchor has been replaced by bolts. 5 bolts lead up sustained thin edging to connect with the finish of Razor's Edge.

Electric Razor

Steep, Difficult 12a climbing to the third bolt leading to a more moderate 5.10 middle section followed by 5.11 climbing at the top.  The second clip is rather serious.  Someone had drilled the first bolt of this route some time ago and then forsook the climb.  We cleaned up the line, finished bolting it and climbed it, thus un-forsaking it.  It is too good to remain abandoned, it's unforsakable.

Unforsakable

Starts on very thin flakes to clip a bolt right over a nasty detached flake, not sure how it hasn't fallen out yet, then traverse right across the face past two more bolts and cool hueco features. Third bolt hanger is way loose but bolt itself looks ok. I couldn't finish this as there are zero holds above the third bolt, maybe goes to the arete right?

Compound Eyes

A pretty good ruote to do after "Ours" on the Sideshow slab. A boulder problem leads to an interesting crack. Boulder problem looks hard, find the undercling ;) There's an old fixed nut to protect the start, a Green C3 pit nicely above it.

The Road to Nowhere

Tenuous face climbing along a rounded arete utilizing smears and tiny edges, some of which are quite crispy. Worth doing if in the area and bored.

Razor Burn

After a layback up somewhat loose rock step right onto a steep face and continue up thin edges, then continue up a slab trending left.

My Way

This short route has a number of interesting moves.  The crux is in the first 20 feet, going up a shallow groove and rounded arete.  Easier climbing above takes you to a bolted belay/rappel anchor.

Spoodge

Lieback the large, somewhat uninspiring flake system just left of

Electric Razor

(5.11a), passing two bolts near the top where the flake becomes distressingly thin and creaky. When the flake ends step right and climb a steep, thrutchy left-slanting crack system past a wide section to a stance with a bolted anchor.

Bats live inside the flake, so the desired technique while climbing the flake is to thump the flake soundly (enjoy the hollow vibratory sound it makes) and then lieback up a distance. Repeat the process until past the flake and into the crack system.

The climbing on this is fairly good but the creaking flake makes you wonder if you'll make it to the top before it parts company with the cliff and falls earthward. Still, overall it's an experience not to be missed.

Razor's Edge

A hand and fist jam widens to an offwidth and then a squeeze chimney.  You can approach the crux pitch by scrambling in (5.0) from the right, or by doing a short 5.7 finger crack.  Above the chimney, easy climbing leads to the top of Eagle Pinnacle.  You can scramble down the back side.

Eagle's Nest

This bouldery climb has long reaches, small footholds and interesting pinches.  The crux is gaining the Arete.

Squirt

This excellent face climb follows the arete on the summit block of Eagle Pinnacle.  Traverse over to the start from the right side of Sunkist Face.  The rock is excellent and the moves are really fun.  However, the crux move, 15 feet above a ledge, is totally unprotected.

Small Affair direct

Start just right of Finger Lickin' Good with an unprotected face move (5.8) or up the easier crack farther right, to a friction slab with three bolts (5.10a). At the last bolt, you can move left to the 2-bolt anchor.

Falling while making the moves to the first bolt on the upper section would likely be bad and warrants an R rating. However; there is a crack to the right which would likely take gear but might be considered off-route.

Goblin

Tough start followed by a tricky groove/chimney section. Move right at the end to a bolted anchor for P1. Follow easy crack to a ledge and scramble off for P2. First bolt anchor is good to TR Untickable.

Feeling Groovy

Ok TR, it's in the Vogel and Gaines book. Right side of the Eagle Pinnacle. Pull up to a spike and ride the arete to the top.

Romeo Void

This is a clean, arching crack with several tricky sections.  A flared hand crack in the middle of the route is the first hard part, following by strenuous hand and fist jamming above.  The crux is a reach for good holds at the top.  It's at the top of North Gully East, and is obvious once you are there.

Andy Dude

Starts in a left facing corner, one piece of pro here in the crack, then follows an obvious water streak with three bolts.

After the Gold Rush

I hopped on this but not sure what it is or how hard it is. Someone bolted the arete that Small Affair finishes on. There's one bolt for the belay then mandatory stick clip for bolt #1, no stance to clip a bolt lower.

Apparently, this is an undone project.

Unknown

This thin face route has many small flakes for holds.  The climbing is so-so.  It starts on the ground, to the right of the Tiny Pillars area.

Lichen Lovers

Second pitch to Electric Razor, technical traverse with a "falling dyno" to a jug on the arete. Pretty reachy.

The Omen

Exciting route in a great position. Starts on south side of Eagle Pinnacle on sharp arete, 5.8X, at a bolt traverse directly right on good incuts, turn the corner to another bolt and slab up to the top. Couple of bolts on top for the belay. Scramble off the pinnacle.

Small Affair

This is a fun, balancy thin face route with some weird moves.  It's near the right edge of Eagle Pinnacle, to the right of Spoodge.  Follow a line of three bolts up the face.

Jizz

This short but difficult testpiece climbs the slightly overhanging dihedral just left of the prow of Spoodge.

Some wild stemming is required.

Schmooze

Interesting stemming and crimping in an obtuse corner.

Bolts are ok but the rock is a little crunchy and the gear on the last part goes in some suspect rock.

Bonus: Undone project? between this and Razor's Edge. Two bolts on it currently.

Kiss of the Spider Woman

Very thin climbing on crispy micro edges up the middle of the face.  Pretty good actually.  Not sure if it has been climbed before but there were many small flakes that broke while finding a line that was climbable.

Desperato

Start on the finger crack to the left of Feeling Groovy, when the finger crack ends snake your way past an interesting pocket to gain decent finger holds on a solid, left trending flake feature.  Continue past this straight up to a wild corner and step to the top of a loose spike, then trend left and up.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in (t) Eagle Pinnacle