Mantles and giant knobs rule the climbing down low, but the tiny crack up high is always on your mind.  Shallow tips locks take over for the remainder and require some powerful desperate lock offs before some relief just over the lip.  Sporty finish.

Ride the Lightning

Climb face an a corner to the right of "Five and Dime".

Whack and Dangle

This is an exceptional moderate route located on the five and dime cliff.  This is the 3rd bolted route once you turn the corner coming down the hill.  Once you clip the 5th bolt you have to turn to your left and come over a small bulge to get the 6th bolt.  I felt that after the second bolt the climbing was pretty consistent difficulty wise and the climb was just pure fun.  I did not expect to find such a well bolted fun moderate sport route in the valley, kudos to the FA party on this gem.

Mockery

This sport climb is located a couple hundred feet to the right of Copper Penny, Five & Dime, et al. Start just to the right of a cluster of oaks and bay trees that are touching the base. And a little ways to the right of the climb is a bolted line to nowhere.

Cruxy mantle at the first bolt, then another hard mantle getting past the second bolt. Some easier climbing leads up and right and then back left along a ramp. Next, bust out right onto some small face holds with another difficult mantle. At the end, climb high and then traverse straight left to the anchor (cold shuts). Rap with one 70m rope.

The Anti-Christ

Five and Dime is the classic and namesake climb for this crag.  It is a strenuous crack that takes a wide ranges of gear, from small to off hands. The crux revolves around a strange pod midway up, followed by difficult finger locks and finishes with a burly hand to large-hand sized crack.  The gear is solid throughout, and if you are solid too then you should do well on this one.

Five and Dime

Steep and wild climbing up a leaning arete.

Begin climbing edges up a low grade slab to the base of the arete. Using flakes, a pocket, and two long ribs, fight gravity past a few bolts to a handful of positive and negative features near the top. A three inch slot marks the crux, fall back off this and hang on!

Short and pumpy, remember you have heels...

Bijou

Start on the right edge of the wall, upwards a couple moves before trending left along sharp edges after the first couple bolts. Climb balancey face, moving between small knobs, clipping several more bolts. Arrive at a seam, pull/maneuver to the last bolt--this is the crux.  Resist bailing out to the big crack/gully left of the route.  Climb the seam using marginal holds on the left corner and trusting your toes in the seam.

Markery

Lay back off big flake all the way to the anchors, super fun route!

Originally was an obscure route which has been lead on gear and top roped long prior to having bolts added so it could be lead as a safe sport route.

Hawleywood

(Formerly 10d now 11a as a big foot came off and one must do an 11a move to gain the 10d dike. 2nd bolt lowered to accommodate on 7/4/21. Crux is now from 2nd bolt through 4th and sustained. Super fun!) Lieback a short flake past a bolt to gain a stance. Clip another bolt from this stance before liebacking/pinching an ever thinning dike. 2nd, 3rd & 4th bolts are the bouldery crux. After gaining the slopey/somewhat positive hole a few inches above the 4th bolt and getting to the large knob, the climbing eases. Above is a ton of balancy fun through knobs and other cool features. As with other routes in this area, this route climbs a lot steeper than it looks. Well bolted with 9 bolts plus anchors with rap rings.

RosaRosa

Jam through the roof then lieback, undercling, jam and stem up to a large flake and knobs.

Crack n’ Face

Climb face and a offwidth crack, left of "Five and Dime".

Copper Penny

This variation into Keystone Corner starts with a couple of hard moves on tips liebacking and tips locks and quickly eases once you reach the first sinker fingerlock. Plentiful feet and low angle make the rings to tight-hands section of the variation easier than Keystone Corner itself.

Chump Change

[Start] about 20' left of the start of

Five and Dime

at an obvious right facing corner with a crack system on the left face and another in the back of the corner. Serves as the standard warm up pitch. Great pro, mainly in the tight hands size, but will take from fingers to fist at different points. At the top, I've always went into the chimney rather than stay in the crack on the left face. Crux is about halfway up, transitioning between the crack systems with cool stemming. The chimney section will pro with hand or fist sized pieces, but is short, secure and easy.

Keystone Corner

Climb up and over a corner to a single bolt with a rap ring. There is a second pitch up Mark the Shark that has a 10a chimney but it looks beasty.

Make sure to put your goggles on before starting as every move will produce a lichen cloud into your eyes and mouth while doing flared hand jams.

Great lead for those looking to get more into adventure climbing.

The Reception

Big smiles for all while maneuvering through the first (lower) crux - it's secure and protects well - to the vertical finger crack above. There is a nice, stable, no-hands rest before you commit to the rest of the climb. The second, slightly more technical crux is up above and protects well with small gear.

Bridgery

The technical crux on this one is the .7 squeeze (very secure). The mental crux is pitch two.  It is reminiscent of the top of Chingando (cavernous).

All climbers should try some Chuck Pratt routes, and this is an easier one.  A favorite among Yosemite obscurity lovers.

Inner Reaches

Bouldery pulls right off the deck lead to a powerful crux at the second bolt. After that, easier climbing leads to a two bolt anchor. Fun, featured granite sport climbing.

Nickel Bag

It is the route to the left of Markery, it starts off a couple blocks, crux past second bolt  and to the right on the arete to knobs.Finish with slab climbing to anchors.

Mark Of The Squirrel

Pull through on knobs to get up in the gully. Climb gully with occasional knobs here and there. This route used to share anchors with Markery but just recently (11/2019) received its own due to the increased traffic on both routes. A fun route that has really cleaned up over time!

Holey Gully

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Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Au. Five and Dime Cliff